L3 Cylinder Bars
Printed From: Unofficial Allis
Category: Allis Chalmers
Forum Name: Farm Equipment
Forum Description: everything about Allis-Chalmers farm equipment
URL: https://www.allischalmers.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=173365
Printed Date: 03 May 2025 at 5:31pm
Software Version: Web Wiz Forums 11.10 - http://www.webwizforums.com
Topic: L3 Cylinder Bars
Posted By: critter
Subject: L3 Cylinder Bars
Date Posted: 06 Aug 2020 at 12:58pm
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I am wondering what you guys think of these bars, are they good? need replaced? I think the combine has noticeably lost capacity. A couple of years ago we turned the bars but I dont feel like it helped any (I think they had been turned before). Are leading the edges supposed to be straight up and down? Should the teeth be square? In the 1st picture the left side is leading now  2nd picture the right side is leading now  In the 3rd picture you can see the hooked teeth on the trailing side  |
Replies:
Posted By: Ron(AB)
Date Posted: 06 Aug 2020 at 2:00pm
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Replace. |
Posted By: Lonn
Date Posted: 06 Aug 2020 at 3:00pm
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They must have been hard surfaced judging by the hook on the worn side and the rough look. They look a little beat but by my eye.... and I'm no expert.... the leading edge doesn't look bad..... some teeth look smoothed over on the lead edge but 99% look OK to me. What are you threshing? What little I know is dealing with corn and soybeans not wheat and not much with oats. ------------- -- --- .... .- -- -- .- -.. / .-- .- ... / .- / -- ..- .-. -.. . .-. .. -. --. / -.-. .... .. .-.. -.. / .-. .- .--. .. ... - Wink I am a Russian Bot |
Posted By: SteveM C/IL
Date Posted: 06 Aug 2020 at 3:38pm
| They look like worn out Trimpe hard surfaced ones to me and that top pic looks like center of teeth have hd surf worn away. Look too far gone to re weld. Trimpe in Seymour IN will be your most economical replacement. |
Posted By: critter
Date Posted: 06 Aug 2020 at 3:39pm
| We run corn, beans and a little wheat, it's become a battle to find a cylinder speed/cylinder height that gets the corn off the cob without grinding the crap out of the corn. It got me thinking maybe the bars had to much wear, the dealer doesn't have any in stock to look at/compare to. |
Posted By: ryan(IN)
Date Posted: 06 Aug 2020 at 5:45pm
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Those bars are shot ------------- ryan 1984 8070 FWA,1979 7060,1975 7040,1971 190,1960 D-17D,1957 D-14, 196? D-19G, 1975 5040,1971? 160,1994 R62 |
Posted By: FREEDGUY
Date Posted: 06 Aug 2020 at 6:57pm
Are those wide spaced bars? Give Bryant Combine Parts a call (south east Indiana) a call to see if they have any salvage bars (anything would be an improvement on what you pictured  ). The wide spaced bars made a completely different animal out of the F2 
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Posted By: MACK
Date Posted: 06 Aug 2020 at 8:56pm
| If you take the time to grind front edge square , they will be better than most bars you can buy today . MACK |
Posted By: Adam Stratton
Date Posted: 06 Aug 2020 at 9:26pm
| Does anyone know what the depth of a "good useable" bar might be? We've ran across some that had been ran too high or something and took the crown off but still have a lot of meat to them. Just wondered if there was a set discard measurement or if you just go by "feel" |
Posted By: groundhog55
Date Posted: 07 Aug 2020 at 7:33am
| Those bars look like chrome bars. Replace. You will save money in the long run on fuel. |
Posted By: robb
Date Posted: 07 Aug 2020 at 8:35pm
| Give Oakley Combine Sales & Salvage in Oxford NC a call and ask about the aggressive bars they sell for gleaners. I put a new set in my K Gleaner and am still amazed at the threshing improvement they provide. Phone # 919-693-4367 |
Posted By: FREEDGUY
Date Posted: 08 Aug 2020 at 7:37pm
| Seems to me that I called "TRIMPE WELDING" in southern Indiana that refurbishes ALL brands of "bars". They want your bars for a "core" to get the lowest price though. |
Posted By: critter
Date Posted: 11 Aug 2020 at 8:28pm
| Thanks for all the replies, we are getting a rebuilt set from Trimpe. |
Posted By: Michael V (NM)
Date Posted: 12 Aug 2020 at 8:13am
| If the concave is the original one, change it too,with that and new bars,you will not recognize this new machine.. |
Posted By: critter
Date Posted: 12 Aug 2020 at 10:15am
Yeah I wondered about the concave also, I assume it's original. How can you tell when it's worn too much? |
Michael V (NM) wrote:Posted By: FREEDGUY
Date Posted: 12 Aug 2020 at 5:34pm
To those that run/ran M/L series machines, how is/are the concave area different than a K/F series ? Are they not a series of bars around the cylinder ? I have no experience with the big conventionals  . Thanks
Well, I looked on the APB site (which has changed a little
) And see that there is NO comparison  !! |
Posted By: old farmer
Date Posted: 12 Aug 2020 at 6:06pm
| K/F are what I call closed concaves. L/M are open concave with a raddle under there that takes the material to the separater raddle. |
Posted By: DrAllis
Date Posted: 12 Aug 2020 at 6:11pm
| Concaves need to be flat and not have rounded front edges. I'll guarantee it's worn in the center and rounded edges everywhere. |
Posted By: FREEDGUY
Date Posted: 12 Aug 2020 at 6:22pm
| Was the "open concave" the precursor to the rotaries ?? Is there a "rock door" on the M/L series like an F ?? |
Posted By: jiminnd
Date Posted: 12 Aug 2020 at 7:05pm
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Rock door is a yes on M and L. ------------- 1945 C, 1949 WF and WD, 1981 185, 1982 8030, unknown D14(nonrunner) |
Posted By: SteveM C/IL
Date Posted: 12 Aug 2020 at 9:17pm
| I'm guessing the open design was supposed to handle more threshing with less damage? Guess they weren't much trouble if cared for. Many built over the years |
Posted By: FREEDGUY
Date Posted: 13 Aug 2020 at 5:31pm
| Sadly, after looking at the 'SCHEMATIC" on the APB, I can't see how the crop of any type enters the "OPEN CYLINDER" ?? |
Posted By: CrestonM
Date Posted: 13 Aug 2020 at 6:15pm
I'm not sure about open cylinder, but If you're talking about the L/M and the open concave, it works just like a smaller Gleaner (think A through F) except on the smaller combines everything that gets threshed by the cylinder has to get thrown back by the cylinder, past the thresher beater, and onto the separator raddle. This is because the concave under the cylinder is solid. To gain a little capacity, the concaves on the L/M were made to be open. Crop enters and threshes exactly like on an A-F, but instead of everything getting thrown back by the cylinder, some of the threshed material falls through the openings in the concave and falls onto the thresher raddle (the A-F combines do not have this extra raddle) The thresher raddle then conveys the threshed material to the separator raddle, where the material joins up with that which was thrown back by the cylinder.
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Posted By: FREEDGUY
Date Posted: 13 Aug 2020 at 6:36pm
Thanks Creston, and yes, I meant open convave . In the parts book, it looks like the cylinder of an L and M series is wrapped with the "concave" much like a rotor ?? I will study the "concave/cylinder " sections some more . Your description is making sense, but to gain "capacity", I assume there are more moving parts involved ? I was always intrigued with how the L/M series loaded the tank from the r/h BOTTOM of the tank with the floating inner auger that raised the bin extensions  . Ingenious !!!
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Posted By: Michael V (NM)
Date Posted: 13 Aug 2020 at 9:30pm
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for you all's with them series, yes a new concave will make all kinds of improvement+ the new bars... Thanks Creston for explaining the 'open concave' system on the L/M |