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Need help/advice with an Allis B plow setup

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Category: Allis Chalmers
Forum Name: Farm Equipment
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URL: https://www.allischalmers.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=172542
Printed Date: 14 May 2024 at 5:02pm
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Topic: Need help/advice with an Allis B plow setup
Posted By: jlbintn
Subject: Need help/advice with an Allis B plow setup
Date Posted: 03 Jul 2020 at 1:53am
The diagram and my tractor do not match, so I am assuming there is a kit that can be added to match my tractor to the configuration from the manual. I have not found much in my search results to this point. Any tips on what to search for?

Also drained the transmission "oil" today. It looked like coffee with way to much creamer. Replaced with SAE 30.

The diagram:


My ride







I don't know much about equipment, it would be nice if I could take a look at another B that is outfitted for plows, using hydraulics or not, it would be clear.



Replies:
Posted By: CTuckerNWIL
Date Posted: 03 Jul 2020 at 7:19pm
All you 'farmerized' drawbar stuff needs to come off. Then you need the lift cyliders and proper plow drawbar, and linkage to the rock shaft.
Allis Chalmers B Plow installation - Yesterdays Tractors
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/proxy/85ps6R4YGXB7N2CCyagO9tdeDvVpb6fqg8HS8rRBZXrpzV_--A0WAt4Np9omCYYAoHlzKPwhoQ4P2rBPGd_IgRlkkDhkWwSEjpRkCRlojle2" rel="nofollow -  Here is a picture of a pick up plow, drawbar and other parts needed to mount ona B
If you do a google search for  B Allis mounted plow, you will find all kinds of images to study.


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http://www.ae-ta.com" rel="nofollow - http://www.ae-ta.com
Lena 1935 WC12xxx, Willie 1951 CA6xx Dad bought new, 1954WD45 PS, 1960 D17 NF


Posted By: Dakota Dave
Date Posted: 03 Jul 2020 at 9:05pm
It would help to know what plow you have but none of your adapted stuff can stay on the tractor. The rock shaft and drop plow drop brackets can stay on for normal tractor usage. A single 16 actually works better than the left right plows.


Posted By: jlbintn
Date Posted: 04 Jul 2020 at 12:21am
No plows as of yet Dave. I am getting recommendations for chisel plows and harrow plows, but so far that's it. Right now I'm at the point of trying to figure out what I need to get the tractor ready to hook up a plow.

Thanks for the recommendation on the single 16.

edit to add:

I know absolutely nothing about plows, so right now this is a bit overwhelming. I am not even up to speed on some of the terminology. The learning curve is steep at the moment. Ouch


Posted By: DiyDave
Date Posted: 04 Jul 2020 at 4:40am
What you need to do is to familiarize yourself with the tractor you have.  Search youtube for allis b plows and plowing videos.  Also going to steam and gas shows (if there are any, right now, in your area, with this covid sh!t...) also, if you see any used equipment dealer lots, in your area, stop and look at what they have.  also, talking to older farmers can get you on the learning curve...Wink

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Source: Babylon Bee. Sponsored by BRAWNDO, its got what you need!


Posted By: CTuckerNWIL
Date Posted: 04 Jul 2020 at 6:39am
The easiest way to get to plowing, IMO, would be to find a proper drawbar set up and a 1 bottom rope trip plow. Any make plow will work for this with no change to your tractor except the proper drawbar. It's also easier to use the tractor for something else this way.
Picture 1 of 8
https://i.ebayimg.com/images/g/-kQAAOSwMPxbkT98/s-l640.jpg



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http://www.ae-ta.com" rel="nofollow - http://www.ae-ta.com
Lena 1935 WC12xxx, Willie 1951 CA6xx Dad bought new, 1954WD45 PS, 1960 D17 NF


Posted By: jlbintn
Date Posted: 04 Jul 2020 at 10:14am
Originally posted by DiyDave DiyDave wrote:

What you need to do is to familiarize yourself with the tractor you have.  Search youtube for allis b plows and plowing videos.  Also going to steam and gas shows (if there are any, right now, in your area, with this covid sh!t...) also, if you see any used equipment dealer lots, in your area, stop and look at what they have.  also, talking to older farmers can get you on the learning curve...Wink


I'm learning and in a few months this will all be second-hand I figure. Once the dialect comes naturally, everything else falls into place, at least that has been my experience.


There are a lot of farmers in this area, haven't seen many Allis-Chalmers tractors, though. I'll have to get out and about, but this damn virus crap, even out here, is having some impact.

Would the three point conversions I have seen for the B, possibly be a good practical solution? If I understand your comments correctly, and within the limitations of the tractor itself, any hitch will work once I get the hardware on the tractor itself correct.

Another possible toy to get: some type of bush hog, for the heavier foliage I have, that tends to want to tear my mower all to hell (a couple of pulleys and some other assorted issues over the last three years.)

I had planned on getting to this several months ago, in fact not long after I started posting, but this damn virus has been one big huge pain in the ass. My wife is on the front lines, our DIL got our grandkids out of Seattle in March, they're here til next month, I had to improvise my talents to being a school teacher until just a few weeks ago.

I've got the boy starting and driving the tractor, though. Parking it is off limits til next summer Cool

I had hoped to have a plow setup at least well on it's way to a reality.

Ahh well LOL

edit to add:

Thanks for the replies everyone. It's much appreciated. I have not been idle on the old girl, these past months. I got the carb completely rebuilt and the tank treated and cleaned. Chatt-town Radiator did a bang-up job and quickly, too. Gas is coming out of that tank as clean as the day the tractor came off the assembly line.


Posted By: PaulB
Date Posted: 04 Jul 2020 at 10:58am
Originally posted by Dakota Dave Dakota Dave wrote:

A single 16 actually works better than the left right plows.
REALLY??? I've always thought that a B and a set of 2 way plows was one of the best well balance tractor plow combinations ever built. It's a great setup for doing gardens and small fields or hillsides.  I'm sure Bill Long would agreeThumbs Up  
    Stay away from those aftermarket 3pt combulations.  Apart from the plow being mounted so far back from the tractor that you'll need a 400 pound wife/girlfriend to ride on the front to hold it down, you'll never get a 3pt plow to plow like the factory setup.


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If it was fun to pull in LOW gear, I could have a John Deere.
If you can't make it GO... make it SHINY


Posted By: jlbintn
Date Posted: 05 Jul 2020 at 11:25am
My neighbor came over yesterday and got into the tractor roundtable we conducted around the brake project.

He told me that Charleston has a tractor show, but most of what he has seen there the few times he attended were John Deere's.

Said he has never seen another Allis-Chalmers tractor in this area.


Posted By: Bill Long
Date Posted: 05 Jul 2020 at 12:01pm
Looking at the pictures of the hydraulic pump it seems that the line for the oil flow to the hydraulic rams has been plugged.  It seems that unless you have an after market hydraulic pump attached - that I cannot see - you have no working hydraulics.   
The first picture shows the proper hydraulic connection for a two way plow operation.  
As stated above the hook up you presently have is an after market hitch.  
The plows made for the B are very good.  I sure assembled, mounted, and adjusted enough of them.  
You may check on e-bay.  They sometimes have hydraulic rams or even attachments there.  If you want a B plow you may check here.  We have a classified section and you could put a request here  
You have a lot of items you need to get a mounted plow.  The plow, the lift arrangement behind the seat, and the hydraulic ram or rams for a two way plow.   Hard since they don't make them any more.  
It may be best to consider - as stated above - using a one bottom pull type plow.  May be easier to find.  
In any event let me congratulate you for obtaining my favorite Allis Chalmers Tractor, the B.  You will find it to be very dependable, very basic, and for it size powerful.  Let me along with the others wish you the very best on your search.  Do not hesitate to ask here.  We will be delighted to be of whatever assistance we can.
Sorry I got so Windy but it is my favorite subject - The B
Good Luck!
Bill Long


Posted By: jlbintn
Date Posted: 05 Jul 2020 at 11:25pm
Am I correct in my assumption that the two oval shaped openings in the back, under the ram mounts are where hoses are connected for oil flow to operate the hydraulic system on this tractor?

Based on the diagram picture I posted, that looks to be where hose connections belong.


edit to add:

Thanks for the info and nice words, Mr. Long.




Posted By: jlbintn
Date Posted: 05 Jul 2020 at 11:59pm
I see what you mean by plugged. That looks easy enough to remedy. If I can find the parts. I'm wondering if I could manufacture something that might work, if I am unable to find the parts.

I really need to be able to eyeball a B with the factory described setup.

That's a tall order I think Smile


Posted By: DiyDave
Date Posted: 06 Jul 2020 at 4:37am
Originally posted by jlbintn jlbintn wrote:

Am I correct in my assumption that the two oval shaped openings in the back, under the ram mounts are where hoses are connected for oil flow to operate the hydraulic system on this tractor?  No, those holes do nothing except possibly vent the brake housings...  hoses end at bottom of lift cyls, and start at hyd valve. plugged fiting on pump has a hard line that goes up to the hyd valve...Wink

Based on the diagram picture I posted, that looks to be where hose connections belong.


edit to add:

Thanks for the info and nice words, Mr. Long.




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Source: Babylon Bee. Sponsored by BRAWNDO, its got what you need!


Posted By: chaskaduo
Date Posted: 06 Jul 2020 at 9:48am
Be sure and get proper hydraulic fittings and lines. The pressures on these pumps is 3,000psi plus. Plumbing pipe & brass fittings are not rated for these pressures. A pressure cooker would probably explode at a 10th to 20th of 3,000psi. It's your life and your choice.

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1938 B, 79 Dynamark 11/36 6spd, 95 Weed-Eater 16hp, 2010 Bolens 14hp


Posted By: jlbintn
Date Posted: 06 Jul 2020 at 11:09am
Originally posted by DiyDave DiyDave wrote:

Originally posted by jlbintn jlbintn wrote:

Am I correct in my assumption that the two oval shaped openings in the back, under the ram mounts are where hoses are connected for oil flow to operate the hydraulic system on this tractor?  No, those holes do nothing except possibly vent the brake housings...  hoses end at bottom of lift cyls, and start at hyd valve. plugged fiting on pump has a hard line that goes up to the hyd valve...Wink

Based on the diagram picture I posted, that looks to be where hose connections belong.


edit to add:

Thanks for the info and nice words, Mr. Long.




Roger that LOL


Posted By: jlbintn
Date Posted: 06 Jul 2020 at 11:14am
Originally posted by chaskaduo chaskaduo wrote:

Be sure and get proper hydraulic fittings and lines. The pressures on these pumps is 3,000psi plus. Plumbing pipe & brass fittings are not rated for these pressures. A pressure cooker would probably explode at a 10th to 20th of 3,000psi. It's your life and your choice.


I dug quite a bit more into the topic, and found some information about pump specs, which your post confirms. It's a high pressure low flow pump. The number I saw was 3200 psi. I also took a good hard look at the manual diagram again and some of it just clicked. I was staring right at it, and just missed it, i.e., the plugging terminology used by Bill, and then the hard line plumbed out of the pump.

That diagram is misleading (if one doesn't know what they're looking at), because it sure does look like those lines feed into the back part of that housing. But it makes sense now.

Thanks all for "suffering" my ignorance. It is much appreciated.


Posted By: BrianC
Date Posted: 06 Jul 2020 at 11:34am
That ram selector lever, does it have a position where both rams are active?


Posted By: jlbintn
Date Posted: 06 Jul 2020 at 2:03pm
The wanted ad is up, and the search begins Tongue



Posted By: steve(ill)
Date Posted: 06 Jul 2020 at 4:18pm
john, i saw your post in the  WANT ADDS... Im not sure what you are trying to do. You might need to explain it to us, or do a little more thinking on what you want in the long term.. "MOST" of the B tractors have ONE cylinder and ONE hose that runs from the pump/ valve to the cylinder. They don not use the splitter valve mounted under the seat.

Here is a picture of a "standard" B setup with one cylinder and one hose from the pump. Then you have a LEVER under the seat to control the valve mounted on the pump.. This photo also has a ROCK SHAFT, which is the cross bar behind the seat that LIFTS you equipment when the cylinder pushes on the attached arm.. You might need that, depending on WHAT TYPE plow you plan to use..... you need to determine if you are going with a 3 point setup, a " beam under the tractor" type setup, or what ??  Your BLADE and DISC should use the same setup as you get for the PLOW, so plan ahead.






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Like them all, but love the "B"s.


Posted By: steve(ill)
Date Posted: 06 Jul 2020 at 4:44pm
here is a picture of a 3 point setup added to a B... about 1:30 point in the movie..

This can use the original B pump and valve and maybe the cylinder. The "new parts" are mounted to the old draw bar loop... This does allow you to use newer attachments like a blade / scoop/ etc.......... again, it all depends on what ATTACHMENTS you have and WHAT YOUR TRYING TO ACCOMPLISH ???

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kLaoY-1EMTw" rel="nofollow - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kLaoY-1EMTw


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Like them all, but love the "B"s.


Posted By: steve(ill)
Date Posted: 06 Jul 2020 at 4:51pm
here is a photo of a B that i have that has a plow BEAM as shown in Chariles photo above, with the PLOW removed and a BLADE section bolted to it..... just showing another OPTION of what can be done.... one pump / one cylinder / one hose / factory BEAM / factory rockshaft and lift..




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Like them all, but love the "B"s.


Posted By: DiyDave
Date Posted: 06 Jul 2020 at 5:39pm
If yours has the selector valve, and second cyl pin, on the left, as is shown in your pictures, what you need is the double plow set up, shown in CTucker's picture.Wink

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Source: Babylon Bee. Sponsored by BRAWNDO, its got what you need!


Posted By: Brian G. NY
Date Posted: 06 Jul 2020 at 6:56pm
The 2-way 16" 2-way plow setup is ideal.....when the unused plow is up it adds weight to the wheel on the sod.....right where it's needed. And, there is never a "dead" furrow.
My Dad bought a brand new "B' with the two-way plows in 1941, the year I was born.
As I recall, he told me the package cost just over $800. The price went up substantially after the war. Getting a complete 2-way set of plows with all the associated pieces is going to be difficult......and expensive!

Originally posted by PaulB PaulB wrote:

Originally posted by Dakota Dave Dakota Dave wrote:

A single 16 actually works better than the left right plows.
REALLY??? I've always thought that a B and a set of 2 way plows was one of the best well balance tractor plow combinations ever built. It's a great setup for doing gardens and small fields or hillsides.  I'm sure Bill Long would agreeThumbs Up  
    Stay away from those aftermarket 3pt combulations.  Apart from the plow being mounted so far back from the tractor that you'll need a 400 pound wife/girlfriend to ride on the front to hold it down, you'll never get a 3pt plow to plow like the factory setup.


Posted By: rhaley
Date Posted: 06 Jul 2020 at 8:59pm
uploads/19969/20191006_123213_2020-07-06_20-57-29.jpg" rel="nofollow - uploads/19969/20191006_123213_2020-07-06_20-57-29.jpg

Here is what the plow looks like on my B.  This works well even in the heavy soil we have here.


Posted By: jlbintn
Date Posted: 06 Jul 2020 at 10:21pm
Thanks for all of the replies and the pictures, very helpful. I do not need a double setup, if I can get it that would be icing on the cake, but not a show stopper if not. Single will be fine for what I want to do, garden plowing on a four acre setup, maybe digging out a water line run from the house to the garden, it's about 350 feet from the source to destination.

Possibly, down the road, maybe a bush hog. For now that would be the ideal setup.


Posted By: Lars(wi)
Date Posted: 08 Jul 2020 at 7:35am
As for the transmission ‘oil’, if I’m not mistaken the correct oil should be non-detergent 20 weight.

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I tried to follow the science, but it was not there. I then followed the money, and that’s where I found the science.


Posted By: jlbintn
Date Posted: 08 Jul 2020 at 10:04am
It is SAE 20, didn't know about the non-detergent spec. I have yet to find any SAE 20 oil. For now, I just put straight 30w in it. I plan on running it a bit, then draining it again, and may fill it up with farm Diesel and run it a bit, then drain and refill.

Whatever was in there prior to the first drain, had been in there a long damn time.




Posted By: PaulB
Date Posted: 08 Jul 2020 at 10:49am
Generic Hy-Tran fluid is what most everyone uses.  It is a NON foaming hydraulic & transmission oil.   

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If it was fun to pull in LOW gear, I could have a John Deere.
If you can't make it GO... make it SHINY


Posted By: CTuckerNWIL
Date Posted: 08 Jul 2020 at 11:13am
Originally posted by jlbintn jlbintn wrote:

It is SAE 20, didn't know about the non-detergent spec. I have yet to find any SAE 20 oil. For now, I just put straight 30w in it. I plan on running it a bit, then draining it again, and may fill it up with farm Diesel and run it a bit, then drain and refill.

Whatever was in there prior to the first drain, had been in there a long damn time.



 The manual calls for 20w non detergent oil. That's the best they had back then for that system.
 Any Universal HyTran fluid is better than the old 20W as far as I'm concerned. Been using it for near 40 years in my tractors, and it's available just about anywhere. Walmart, Farm stores, auto parts stores and the like.


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http://www.ae-ta.com" rel="nofollow - http://www.ae-ta.com
Lena 1935 WC12xxx, Willie 1951 CA6xx Dad bought new, 1954WD45 PS, 1960 D17 NF


Posted By: jlbintn
Date Posted: 09 Aug 2020 at 3:32pm
The radiator is still in the shop, so I decided to go ahead and pull the shifter plate and drain the transmission.

Next up, the hose. I think I'm going to go with the right side one plow setup for the time being.

Does the orientation of the ram matter? The manual looks like it feeds underneath, some of the pictures show it to the top.


Posted By: jlbintn
Date Posted: 09 Aug 2020 at 3:33pm
btw, the gears and the shaft look great, no noticeable metal flakes, very clean.



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