Print Page | Close Window

Manifold replacement WD45

Printed From: Unofficial Allis
Category: Allis Chalmers
Forum Name: Farm Equipment
Forum Description: everything about Allis-Chalmers farm equipment
URL: https://www.allischalmers.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=171891
Printed Date: 15 Jun 2025 at 12:30am
Software Version: Web Wiz Forums 11.10 - http://www.webwizforums.com


Topic: Manifold replacement WD45
Posted By: MB 121
Subject: Manifold replacement WD45
Date Posted: 10 Jun 2020 at 4:40am
Any tips or tricks? This is a non threaded muffler style. Old manifold has been split open on both sides of muffler and top bolt thread busted off so not starting with what it should look like I'm sure.



Replies:
Posted By: AaronSEIA
Date Posted: 10 Jun 2020 at 5:35am
Plan on twisting off at least one stud.  Otherwise, it's pretty straight forward.  When putting the gaskets on, the metal goes towards the block.
AaronSEIA


Posted By: MB 121
Date Posted: 10 Jun 2020 at 6:31am
Purchased all new studs.
Thanks.


Posted By: WF owner
Date Posted: 10 Jun 2020 at 6:52am
If the tractor can be run safely, go out and work it as hard as possible and get it good and hot. Put on some leather gloves and try to remove the bolts while it is hot. It's the best way I have found.


Posted By: allisbred
Date Posted: 10 Jun 2020 at 7:02am
Heat bolts, apply Kroil, remove nuts carefully without twisting off.


Posted By: MACK
Date Posted: 10 Jun 2020 at 7:37am
Don't over torque end bolts, corners will brake off.             MACK


Posted By: allisbred
Date Posted: 10 Jun 2020 at 8:47am
Use SST or K400 Monel nuts when replacing for the next guy!


Posted By: ac45dave
Date Posted: 10 Jun 2020 at 9:42am
This exhaust sealer is what I used on my wd45 and both d17's.It serves two purposes,holds the gaskets in place when installing the manifold and compensates for any minor pitting.I used a felpro gasket kit from NAPA(part number FPG MS86053) on all three tractors.Retorque after two cool down cycles.I used the brass nuts with high temp nickel anti-sieze. (20 ft lb is the spec from 45 service manual) The 45 was done roughly 9 years ago and still no leaks.                                                                                               

-------------
54 wd-45gas ; 56 wd-45d N/F w/fact p/s ; 63 d-17 sIII N/F gas ; 60 D14 N/F ; 67 d-17 sIV N/F gas ; 63D15 sII W/F; 39rc#667 ; 2021 massey 4710 fwa ; gravely 2 wheel tractors


Posted By: dr p
Date Posted: 10 Jun 2020 at 6:59pm
See if you can find a used vixen manifold. I had bad luck with the new after market ones


Posted By: MB 121
Date Posted: 10 Jun 2020 at 7:29pm
It's a new after market one i already ordered it and it's here thanks for the heads up on napa sealer..
Thanks again


Posted By: Lynn Marshall
Date Posted: 10 Jun 2020 at 9:24pm
It's been a while,but don't the studs screw into the water jacket of the head. If so,you just as well drain the block.


Posted By: LionelinKY
Date Posted: 11 Jun 2020 at 12:17am
Originally posted by Lynn Marshall Lynn Marshall wrote:

It's been a while,but don't the studs screw into the water jacket of the head. If so,you just as well drain the block.
 
Yes, they do screw into the water jacket so if you are replacing the studs you will indeed want to drain the coolant down.


-------------
"My name is Lionel and I'm an Allisoholic"


Posted By: Brian G. NY
Date Posted: 11 Jun 2020 at 8:09am
Originally posted by <div> Yes, they do screw into the water jacket so if you are replacing the studs you will indeed want to drain the coolant down.</div>[/QUOTE
 Yes, they do screw into the water jacket so if you are replacing the studs you will indeed want to drain the coolant down.
[/QUOTE wrote:



And.........apply sealant to  the threads when you install your new studs.
Being old (and old school) I use P

And.........apply sealant to  the threads when you install your new studs.
Being old (and old school) I use Permatex #2 for that.


Posted By: MB 121
Date Posted: 21 Jun 2020 at 10:00am
Got it switched out got it to temp over last few days dragging box blade on driveway no issues there Thanks for the advice.. Carb studs had been cross threaded.Went to Napa cut down new ones to lenght. Had to run a file on new manifold the casting wasn't cleaned well and was interfering with new nut clearence to mount carb. 1 stud had a bolt and metal spacer replacing it. My issue is now the muffler it has blown out the base and keeps lifting out of manifold rocking sideways when tractor starts or giving throttle. This isn't because of the blow out at the base of it. Doesn't seem like the correct one any ideas on part# the correct one would be? Muffler doesn't fit down inside manifold I took a angle grinder to the pipe weld seam still won't fit down into manifold someone has crimped the end before I got the tractor. I checked for high spots with caliper.


Posted By: MB 121
Date Posted: 21 Jun 2020 at 10:11am
Forgot to mention the head bolt flange is there they sent a muffler kit with the manifold includes a piece of flat bar with two holes and a bent section also a piece of pipe that has 2 different O.D. dimensions but same I.D. dimension. There was a banding clamp already on tractor muffler as well. The muffler did the same on the old manifold but I figured it was because the top flange was broken off,and missing the entire top bolt hole.


Posted By: Dave(inMA)
Date Posted: 21 Jun 2020 at 10:51am
MD,  Not really following your descriptions, though it sounds as though you're describing a Stanley muffler; the Nelson muffler comes with the flat rectangular plate welded to it. Aex09 might have the part #'s, at least for the Nelson.

There should be two threaded bolt holes in the side of the exhaust outlet of the manifold.  The rectangular plate bolts on there, then clamps to the muffler itself using the clamp you mentioned. It'd help if you could you post pictures of the manifold exhaust outlet and the muffler and parts.


-------------
WC, CA, D14, WD45


Posted By: MB 121
Date Posted: 21 Jun 2020 at 10:59am
Yes two threaded bolt holes and e in the new manifold I have the flat bar piece bolted to it and clamp ran around it and the head mounted bracket. I have tried to post pics says file is to big.


Posted By: john(MI)
Date Posted: 21 Jun 2020 at 11:28am
Stick the muffler in the top of the manifold and put the clamp around it and the flat bar piece and tighten it up.  On the one I bought the flat bar had a bend in the middle to fit over the top of the manifold so it was up against the muffler.


-------------
D14, D17, 5020, 612H, CASE 446


Posted By: Alex09(WI)
Date Posted: 21 Jun 2020 at 4:34pm
This is the good muffler mounted on an original manifold. If your muffler doesn't have the integral mounting flange, it should have the separate flange that bolts on the manifold and the clamp holds the muffler to it.



-------------
www.awtractor.com
A&W TRACTOR 920-598-1287
KEEPING ALLIS-CHALMERS IN THE FIELDS THROUGH THE 21ST CENTURY


Posted By: MB 121
Date Posted: 22 Jun 2020 at 4:31am
Then mine is defenetly the Stanley Alex 09 you wouldn't happen to have the actual part number of the muffler in pic please


Posted By: Alex09(WI)
Date Posted: 22 Jun 2020 at 8:50am
Originally posted by MB 121 MB 121 wrote:

Then mine is defenetly the Stanley Alex 09 you wouldn't happen to have the actual part number of the muffler in pic please


The A-C part # is 229531 for that muffler


-------------
www.awtractor.com
A&W TRACTOR 920-598-1287
KEEPING ALLIS-CHALMERS IN THE FIELDS THROUGH THE 21ST CENTURY


Posted By: MB 121
Date Posted: 22 Jun 2020 at 9:45am
Thank you.



Print Page | Close Window

Forum Software by Web Wiz Forums® version 11.10 - http://www.webwizforums.com
Copyright ©2001-2017 Web Wiz Ltd. - https://www.webwiz.net