Opinions on maroon 7000 with reverse gear rattle
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Category: Allis Chalmers
Forum Name: Farm Equipment
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URL: https://www.allischalmers.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=170265
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Topic: Opinions on maroon 7000 with reverse gear rattle
Posted By: DIESEL
Subject: Opinions on maroon 7000 with reverse gear rattle
Date Posted: 18 Apr 2020 at 9:05pm
| I'm looking at a maroon belly 7000 with 3000k original hours and it is clean, down to the original seat looking like new. The only problem is it has a rattle or growl in reverse. Worse case scenario what am I looking at for a repair bill, or should I just run from it. Thanks |
Replies:
Posted By: Albert
Date Posted: 18 Apr 2020 at 9:45pm
|
you can change reverse idler without split. if problem on counter shaft the gear is made on the shaft. If you don't want to chance some money and using reverse a lot like on a round baler I would run. Albert |
Posted By: shameless dude
Date Posted: 18 Apr 2020 at 10:21pm
| i had a rattle on my 7010 when new. turned out to be the little springs on the clutch plate were loose and were rattling, i had it fixed as it was a new tractor, but it wasn't gonna hurt anything per the mechanics. it sounded like chit! |
Posted By: Ron(AB)
Date Posted: 18 Apr 2020 at 11:20pm
|
They had a bad reverse idler gear. That could be what you're hearing? You can fix that without splitting the tractor. Access the trans by removing the top cover and have a look... Buy it! It's still is cheaper to fix than buying new. |
Posted By: DIESEL
Date Posted: 18 Apr 2020 at 11:51pm
That's what I've read Ron, I just wasnt sure how bad it would be,don't need a money pit.
|
Posted By: DrAllis
Date Posted: 19 Apr 2020 at 7:01am
| Could be four things: #1. The top gear has a chipped tooth because someone jammed it in park while still moving. #2. The idler gear is chewed up from poor engagement over the years due to the gearshift hitting the seat. #3. The bottom gear missed heat treatment when built and is now worn out. I had one like this. #4. Operator constantly grinding it in gear damaging all three gears, like a round baler tractor ?? All are a big deal to fix except for the idler gear itself. |
Posted By: DIESEL
Date Posted: 19 Apr 2020 at 9:37am
| Ok sounds like i'd have to pull the shift tower to know for sure. Thanks |
Posted By: DrAllis
Date Posted: 19 Apr 2020 at 9:38am
| And maybe drain the oil from the transmission cavity. The drain plug is behind the fuel tank. About 2 gallons lost. |
Posted By: DougG
Date Posted: 19 Apr 2020 at 9:53am
| If you dont buy it , Im very interested in it ! Just what Im looking for |
Posted By: injpumpEd
Date Posted: 19 Apr 2020 at 10:38am
|
looks to be in good shape, but with black chassis decals makes me think it's been repainted. At that point I begin to question the accuracy of any hour meter. If it's in good shape, and priced right, hours aren't as big a deal as people make them out to be. Due to it's age, things will likely need attention regardless of said hours. ------------- 210 "too hot to farm" puller, part of the "insane pumpkin posse". Owner of Guenther Heritage Diesel, specializing in fuel injection systems on heritage era tractors. stock rebuilds to all out pullers! |
Posted By: Kevin in WA
Date Posted: 19 Apr 2020 at 11:13am
| There were a few maroon belly 7000s made in early 78, Norm Swinfords book says 393, I know of one maroon belly from the factory with the large decals, i'm guessing its one of those. Being there were a few hundred of 7020s and 7045s built in late 77, that may explain the switch to the large decal before on the 7000 before the mechanical changes were ready for production on the black 7000 in 78. |
Posted By: injpumpEd
Date Posted: 19 Apr 2020 at 11:16am
Interesting! I have never knowingly seen a mixed scheme tractor, but when I was a kid and they were new, it may not have payed attention, although I did notice a lot of details most overlooked lol! Someone could have just put different hood panels on too. ------------- 210 "too hot to farm" puller, part of the "insane pumpkin posse". Owner of Guenther Heritage Diesel, specializing in fuel injection systems on heritage era tractors. stock rebuilds to all out pullers! |
Kevin in WA wrote:Posted By: gerkendave
Date Posted: 19 Apr 2020 at 12:04pm
| I see that 7000 has an 8 bolt front. I always thought they had 6 like my 190? Is it common to see a 7000 with the heavy front like that? |
Posted By: Ron(AB)
Date Posted: 19 Apr 2020 at 12:41pm
| The heavy axle was an option. |
Posted By: injpumpEd
Date Posted: 19 Apr 2020 at 1:06pm
|
Yes, the heavy front axle is known as a 7000 "special". That too I thought was a black chassis thing. This one is definitely interesting. we don't mean to pick it apart, but are simply questioning it's originality, or has someone pieced it together simply to sell. Know the serial? ------------- 210 "too hot to farm" puller, part of the "insane pumpkin posse". Owner of Guenther Heritage Diesel, specializing in fuel injection systems on heritage era tractors. stock rebuilds to all out pullers! |
Posted By: Brad in WA
Date Posted: 19 Apr 2020 at 1:45pm
| Maroon tractors were also available with 8 bolt hubs, I have seen 3 of these. |
Posted By: DIESEL
Date Posted: 19 Apr 2020 at 2:07pm
| It's a 78, yes heavy front end and definitely not repainted. I enjoy the discussion! Its absolutely a sweet heart and I'm not scared to invest some money into getting it fixed, I was just wondering how deep my pockets would have to be, lol |
Posted By: Lonn
Date Posted: 19 Apr 2020 at 9:57pm
|
I still question it being a 1978 build. Maybe a mix or a replaced rear end. Allis was selling all its excess Accousta I cabs in the Fall of 1977. Dad bought a new one at a consignment auction that had 6 of them from Allis Chalmers and he mounted it on his 190XT that he also bought in 1977. Anyhow it happens that the cab Dad bought specifically says on the cab tag that it was built for the 7000 tractor and meets California roll over protection regs. ------------- -- --- .... .- -- -- .- -.. / .-- .- ... / .- / -- ..- .-. -.. . .-. .. -. --. / -.-. .... .. .-.. -.. / .-. .- .--. .. ... - Wink I am a Russian Bot |
Posted By: DIESEL
Date Posted: 19 Apr 2020 at 11:05pm
Here's the serial number, if I looked it up correctly it should be a 78
|
Posted By: bigal121892
Date Posted: 20 Apr 2020 at 6:34pm
| According to Tractor Data, model year 1978, started with serial number 6373, with the change over occurring at serial number 8000. |
Posted By: Lonn
Date Posted: 21 Apr 2020 at 6:31am
|
Unless Tractor Data is wrong, there you have it then. But Tractor Data has been wrong before. They used to claim the D17 was first built in 1958 at serial number 4300 and left out serial numbers 1001-4299. Not saying you are wrong, you're probably right, but because of Tractor Data Guide books back in the early 1990's, I had a hard time qualifying my D17 to pull in the local tractor pulls. They had a strange rule to cut out the D17 and 560. The rule read something to the effect of, the cut off date for a tractor to pull was any model built after 1957 but if the model was built in 1957 then they would allow that particular model be pulled even if it was built in 1958. But I digress.
------------- -- --- .... .- -- -- .- -.. / .-- .- ... / .- / -- ..- .-. -.. . .-. .. -. --. / -.-. .... .. .-.. -.. / .-. .- .--. .. ... - Wink I am a Russian Bot |
Posted By: WF owner
Date Posted: 21 Apr 2020 at 7:17am
| To change that reverse idler gear, you need someone with small hands. There isn't much room !!! |
Posted By: DrAllis
Date Posted: 21 Apr 2020 at 7:32am
| They didn't make the last maroon chassis s/n all the way to 7999 or 8000. They simply started the black chassis with the wet clutch at s/n 8001. |
Posted By: Hurst
Date Posted: 21 Apr 2020 at 8:27pm
|
I've done the reverse idle gear in mine. I believe it is a softer metal (not heat treated maybe?) than the other two gears, because mine had about half of the tooth width ground off and the other two gears didn't have any signs of wear. One thing to note about it, the bushing needs to be honed to size for the idler shaft. You need to take off the transmission top cover and the rear end cover to undo the retaining plate inside the rear end, if my memory serves me correctly. Then slide the shaft back, take out the gear, pull the shaft the rest of the way out, take the new gear and shaft to a machine shop to be honed (you don't want to use a brake cylinder hone or the like, as that can leave abrasives in the brass, I believe the machine shops will basically ream it to spec based on the shaft diameter, but I wasn't there when they did it). Reverse the procedure and you have it back together. I think the spec is in the service manual for sizing the gear. If you get to that point, shoot me a message and I will scan that page to you. Hurst ------------- 1979 Allis Chalmers 7000 5800 Hours |
Posted By: DIESEL
Date Posted: 21 Apr 2020 at 9:12pm
| Thanks for the info everyone! I brought it home it was to nice not to buy. |