Farm Equipment - Need help with 8000 series hydraulics

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Need help with 8000 series hydraulics

Printed From: Unofficial Allis
Category: Allis Chalmers
Forum Name: Farm Equipment
Forum Description: everything about Allis-Chalmers farm equipment
URL: https://www.allischalmers.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=169888
Printed Date: 17 Sep 2025 at 3:26pm
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Topic: Need help with 8000 series hydraulics

Posted By: Kramer10
Subject: Need help with 8000 series hydraulics
Date Posted: 07 Apr 2020 at 11:20am

I'm looking for someone I can talk to about an Allis Chalmers 8030. Need help understanding the hydraulics. Im trying to get a pp 20 20 hydraulic drive to run my planter drive. I have the planter raise lower on remote 1, makers on 2 and hydraulic drive on 3. The problem I have is when the I get to the headlands (the drive isn't running anymore) I can't raise the planter but if I put the hydraulic drive remote in neutral it will raise. The tractor has about 20 gpm of flow. The drive only uses about 5 when it's running they say. So why is it when it's not using any flow I still can't raise the planter. I've played with the flow controls on the valves but that doesn't seem to make any difference. Any help would be greatly appreciated. A guy on ag talk told me about this form and a Dr Allis gentleman.

Replies:

Posted By: 8070nc
Date Posted: 07 Apr 2020 at 11:41am

Ill talk to you to see if i can help I have 2 8070's

Donald Matthews

9103660769

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1984 80780
1957 D14
DES 300 with 25000 engine
616 tractor

Posted By: DrAllis
Date Posted: 07 Apr 2020 at 6:20pm

8000 series remote valves are all adjustable for flow. There is no priority valve ( usually #1) like some brands have. If you have 20 GPM from the main pump ( 8000 series are rated at 23 GPM at full throttle) and have one remote valve set for 5 GPM and a second remote valve at 7 GPM, the third remote valve should be able to be set at 8 GPM and each should maintain those numbers as long as you are at full throttle. So, I guess you need to set your planter drive remote valve flow at absolutely no more GPM than is needed and then dial the other two slower until everything functions without affecting each other. Your tractor is considered a "closed center" hydraulic system or "pressure and flow compensated system". If your trying to use an "open center" system valve, it won't work right on your tractor. On your planter drive remote valve you MUST adjust the kick-out on that valve so the lever locks in and stays in on its own. You cannot tie that lever engaged with a tarp strap and expect things to work correctly. Maybe your main hydraulic pump isn't adjusted to 2,500 psi max pressure ?? and 500 to 600 psi stand-by pressure ?? If either of these numbers are low, the performance of the system won't be what it should be.

Posted By: dnel45
Date Posted: 11 May 2022 at 8:38am

I am having this same issue though my is a bit different.

I have a hydraulic drive and when the drive is actually running (planter meters rotating) the planter lifts up and down with no problem at all. When I get to the end rows and I start the pick the planter up, the switch turns the drive off (handle in cab still engaged) but then the tractor will barely lift the planter. It is opposite of what you would think would be happening. When the drive is running tractor lifts planter no problem. When the drive is off (handle still engaged in cab), tractor will barely lift the planter.

If I take the drive handle back to "hold" position tractor lifts planter no problem, but I didnt want to have to do this on all the end rows.

I have the drive on the top remote (right handle in cab) and the planter lift on the bottom remotes (left handle in cab)

Any thoughts?

Posted By: Ron(AB)
Date Posted: 11 May 2022 at 9:03am

Also check your hydraulic couplers.   Any leaks putting air into the system can cause problems too!

Do both of you guys have pioneer couplers (male and female) or do you have old style Allis (male and female)?

I had a loader on a 8010 plugged into the rear couplers and a little air into the system would make the loader work erratically.   You may also notice some oil drips or sweating. When I used the correct fittings it was 100% better.

Keep in mind these couplers are getting worn, and they might not work as good as they did new.   A new fitting is a quick fix.

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405, 7000, 7050, 8050, 8070, L3, 2300 & 2600 disk

Posted By: 8070nc
Date Posted: 11 May 2022 at 12:12pm

Dnel45, it seems to me that when you flip the switch to turn off the planter the valve diverts flow from the motor straight to the return line. Tractor system has nothing to build pressure against because a large amount of oil is just going out to planter and coming back. Id try a flow control needle valve in the
Return line. Id start with it wide open and then close
It until it affected the rate motor the back out a little

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1984 80780
1957 D14
DES 300 with 25000 engine
616 tractor

Posted By: tbran
Date Posted: 11 May 2022 at 10:50pm

Attached is flow control with pilot check assembly drawing. When higher pressure function is used on another remote the common passage shifts this valve towards closed and restricts the flow, trying to maintain same flow thru smaller opening but at higher pressure. Drilling face allows some flow to continue even if valve totally closes. ok I can't paste the blue print pic from AC - if you would like a copy send me your email at bgtbran@hotmail.com and I will try to attach the pdf file.

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When told "it's not the money,it's the principle", remember, it's always the money..

Posted By: ajl
Date Posted: 19 May 2022 at 9:55pm

I use my 8070 on an air drill. Remote one is running the fan which requires constant flow. (Short lever) and remote 3 puts drill up and down. I have set the fan for just enough flow to get enough air and it seems to have enough left to drill the drill up and down. Works fairly well.