Shops, Barns, Varmints, and Trucks - How to fill holes in 3/4 steel plate

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How to fill holes in 3/4 steel plate

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Topic: How to fill holes in 3/4 steel plate

Posted By: BrianC
Subject: How to fill holes in 3/4 steel plate
Date Posted: 03 Apr 2020 at 7:10pm

I have a Lincoln 225 AC tombstone stick welder from the '70's.

Poor skills in welding.

.720 thick steel with .687 and .750 through holes. 4 holes total.

Any advice on how to weld up the holes?

Replies:

Posted By: Tracy Martin TN
Date Posted: 03 Apr 2020 at 8:04pm

Several ways. Steel plug and sew them up. Copper piece to weld against in center, then other side. There are others but these will do the trick. Stay clean and it will be professional. HTH Tracy

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No greater gift than healthy grandkids!

Posted By: Bill_MN
Date Posted: 03 Apr 2020 at 8:54pm

I've done holes before by putting a slug in the hole the same thickness or close and slightly smaller than the hole. Taper it back a little bit towards the top and bottom and just weld it in, then you don't have to fill the whole thing with weld.

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1951 WD #78283, 1918 Case 28x50 Thresher #76738, Case Centennial B 2x16 Plow

Posted By: thendrix
Date Posted: 04 Apr 2020 at 12:49am

Set screws welded in holes work very well

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"Farming is a business that makes a Las Vegas craps table look like a regular paycheck" Ronald Reagan

Posted By: jaybmiller
Date Posted: 04 Apr 2020 at 6:09am

one way...

1/2" sections of 5/6 and 3/4 bolts. place 1/8" washers in holes, then 'slugs', weld them in. turn over plate, fill the voids where the washers were.

other way...

copper under plate, fill holes with weld, a little into each hole,next hole, repeat until filled.

hint:

Use E7018AC rods. Be sure it says AC at the end !! Easy to remember... AC !!!

They are totally different than E7018. They weld REAL nice and easy. The ONLY rod I've bought in 30 years...... can weld tin thin rider decks to big A trailers, ALWAYS get a great weld. I usually use 1/8" rod at 105 amps.

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3 D-14s,A-C forklift, B-112
Kubota BX23S lil' TOOT( The Other Orange Tractor)

Never burn your bridges, unless you can walk on water

Posted By: Dusty MI
Date Posted: 04 Apr 2020 at 7:33am

Jay,

Have you ever tried 7014 AC rods?

Dusty

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917 H, '48 G, '65 D-10 series III "Allis Express"

Posted By: DrAllis
Date Posted: 04 Apr 2020 at 7:43am

You don't say what the purpose of the plate is when you get done filling the holes ?? Take a thread tap and make threads and screw in a bolt and cut it off on both sides and grind flush. Tack weld to retain.

Posted By: SteveM C/IL
Date Posted: 04 Apr 2020 at 9:38am

Does it just have to look pretty or does it function(seal)

Posted By: BrianC
Date Posted: 04 Apr 2020 at 10:05am

Draw bar on a garden tractor. The thing is weak enough as it is, and has z bends and such, otherwise I would make a new one. So structural.

I have used a copper backing plate (and wire feed) for 16 gauge, so I get the idea. But this is 3/4 deep. I have a lathe, I can turn up some chamfered thin buttons and set in the middle, then I got 1/2 the depth to weld, but from each side, better for distortion I would imagine. Could also make a copper spud in the hole to get started.

What type, rod size and amp setting? Same size/amps if I go either method (copper back plate vs centered button)?

I have my doubts as to my welding skill- I will be welding in a hole, could I see the pool, what motion, sl*g build up...

I want to do it this weekend.

Thanks

Posted By: steve(ill)
Date Posted: 04 Apr 2020 at 12:37pm

the 7018 or 7014 AC rods are OK... I prefer to use 3/32 rod on 90% of my jobs.. It welds slower with less fill than 1/8 rod and easier to control... LIke you said, a button in the center and then you have less than half the 3/4 inch depth on each side. You can use a circular pattern or go across as stitching.. The MAIN THING is DONT WELD OVER THE sl*g.. Make a couple stitches or a circle pattern, then STOP and chip off the flux.. THen do a couple passes again... Weld must be over METAL, dont go over the FLUX/ sl*g.

why cant you write s-l-a-g ??? Wont accept that word... Keeps putting in the * instead of "a" ??

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Like them all, but love the "B"s.

Posted By: DanWi
Date Posted: 04 Apr 2020 at 1:20pm

Be careful if you dont know what you are doing there as you stated this was a week drawbar and you are trying to strengthen it by welding hole shut but the heat may change the metal and it will end up breaking there. Experts can go into more detail and tell you how to avoid problem usually involves heating and slow cooling.

Posted By: DMiller
Date Posted: 04 Apr 2020 at 1:47pm

If heat it thru welding to keep the strength that was there prior will need to reheat the entire assembly up and anneal it. Otherwise as noted the weak spot will be to either side of the welded area.

May in the long run be better off to produce a replacement with holes or solid where you want them.

Posted By: jaybmiller
Date Posted: 04 Apr 2020 at 2:39pm

I just buy E7018AC, brand name... it's workewd for me for past 30+ years....

I do KNOW it HAS to have AC on the end when using an AC welder(buzzbox)...

btw s-l-a-g is a 'bad word', I don't know why....maybe google does...

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3 D-14s,A-C forklift, B-112
Kubota BX23S lil' TOOT( The Other Orange Tractor)

Never burn your bridges, unless you can walk on water