200 quits running
Printed From: Unofficial Allis
Category: Allis Chalmers
Forum Name: Farm Equipment
Forum Description: everything about Allis-Chalmers farm equipment
URL: https://www.allischalmers.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=169654
Printed Date: 21 Aug 2025 at 8:37pm
Software Version: Web Wiz Forums 11.10 - http://www.webwizforums.com
Topic: 200 quits running
Posted By: badjeep
Subject: 200 quits running
Date Posted: 31 Mar 2020 at 4:45pm
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My 200 will slow down and die after about 5 minutes of running. It will start back up but want to die again. A while back I read somewhere on this board about a similar problem but cant find the thread. I also remember someone saying to loosen the timing cover and let it leak and see if that fixes it, it does. I am guessing it is time for a pump rebuild but is there a quick fix to get me going for a couple weeks until I have time to get it fixed right? This tractor has been my light duty tractor for about 30 years and has been absolutley reliable for ever, currently has less than 3000 hours on it. Thanks for any help ------------- In the shed- 7020,7060, L2 X (2), CII, WD X (2), 200, 210, 611H, 440, Fiat Allis 345B |
Replies:
Posted By: injpumpEd
Date Posted: 31 Mar 2020 at 4:52pm
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Take out the top fitting and knock the ball and spring out, and that will get you by for a few weeks until you can be down for pump rebuild. Very common issue on the Roosa DB pump. I rebuild a bunch of them for this reason. I typically update it to the newer style, so modern fuel won't attack it like just putting in a new flex ring again. ------------- 210 "too hot to farm" puller, part of the "insane pumpkin posse". Owner of Guenther Heritage Diesel, specializing in fuel injection systems on heritage era tractors. stock rebuilds to all out pullers! |
Posted By: DrAllis
Date Posted: 31 Mar 2020 at 4:52pm
| On the top cover of the injection pump there is a return line. Disconnect the hose from the nipple that is attached to the pumps top cover. Remove the nipple from the cover. Take the nipple to a bench grinder and lightly grind on the threaded end to make it just a tad shorter. This will allow you to pry out the flat washer that is crimped in the end of the nipple. Throw away the washer, glass ball and spring that are inside the fitting and make sure it is clean and free to flow air. Reinstall in the pump and get the injection pump overhauled in the next 50 to 100 hrs. |
Posted By: FREEDGUY
Date Posted: 31 Mar 2020 at 5:28pm
| When the glass ball/spring get "blasted" out of the line, do they need replaced after the pump has been repaired ? If not, why were they spec'd in the first place? |
Posted By: injpumpEd
Date Posted: 31 Mar 2020 at 6:09pm
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When the return fitting is plugged, it gets replaced upon rebuild. It is used to maintain a slight amount of housing pressure to help stabilize the advance mechanism. It will work without the ball & spring, for temporary use.
------------- 210 "too hot to farm" puller, part of the "insane pumpkin posse". Owner of Guenther Heritage Diesel, specializing in fuel injection systems on heritage era tractors. stock rebuilds to all out pullers! |
Posted By: ranger43
Date Posted: 31 Mar 2020 at 8:12pm
| This sequence of events happened to me last year on my 210. I was in the middle of a field, luckily had a small punch...knocked out the ball and finished up. Sent the pump to Ed for a rebuild this winter and tractor runs better than ever. I will be sending all my pumps his way from now on. |
Posted By: allisbred
Date Posted: 31 Mar 2020 at 8:30pm
| If you haven’t already, I would disconnect the fuel line under the right rear tire, back side, put a hose on it and drain 5 gallons of fuel out to make sure you have flow 1st. This has saved me money on fuel pump repairs. |
Posted By: ranger43
Date Posted: 31 Mar 2020 at 8:35pm
| good point!!....I had a combine acting up in a similar manner....had a fiber of corn fodder stuck in the petcock restricting fuel flow...took awhile to figure it out. |
Posted By: injpumpEd
Date Posted: 01 Apr 2020 at 9:11am
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OP said loosening the timing window cover allowed it to keep running. There is no question it is a plugged return circuit due to a broken down flex ring. It is time for a pump rebuild. ------------- 210 "too hot to farm" puller, part of the "insane pumpkin posse". Owner of Guenther Heritage Diesel, specializing in fuel injection systems on heritage era tractors. stock rebuilds to all out pullers! |
Posted By: badjeep
Date Posted: 01 Apr 2020 at 4:44pm
 Thanks InjpumpEd and the good Dr. for the help, that will get me going
for the weekend. Pump rebuild coming up, looks like I found a project to
spend my corona cash. Instead of ruining the check valve I just
replaced the fitting for now with an open one.
------------- In the shed- 7020,7060, L2 X (2), CII, WD X (2), 200, 210, 611H, 440, Fiat Allis 345B |
Posted By: DrAllis
Date Posted: 01 Apr 2020 at 4:50pm
| Just as good. |
Posted By: FREEDGUY
Date Posted: 01 Apr 2020 at 5:51pm
Is that the same fitting that's on a F2 Gleaner with a 433 ?? I remember taking a fitting off to clean/remove the black plastic pieces out of the return line( our local independent frowned on the breaking the glass ball), but I don't recall this (pictured) fitting ?? And YES, there were MANY "clean-outs" that fall  . The pump was rebuilt off-season the following spring.
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