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190xt

Printed From: Unofficial Allis
Category: Allis Chalmers
Forum Name: Farm Equipment
Forum Description: everything about Allis-Chalmers farm equipment
URL: https://www.allischalmers.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=168988
Printed Date: 22 Sep 2025 at 4:29pm
Software Version: Web Wiz Forums 11.10 - http://www.webwizforums.com


Topic: 190xt
Posted By: festus51
Subject: 190xt
Date Posted: 10 Mar 2020 at 3:39pm
I'm going to have to overhaul the engine in it.   I want to do an in-frame.  My question is will the oil pan come off with out having  to remove any major components?    It is raining and I don't feel like getting wet to go look at it.
Thanks


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We the unwilling Led by the unqualified Doing the impossible for the Ungrateful



Replies:
Posted By: Michael V (NM)
Date Posted: 10 Mar 2020 at 8:13pm
IIRC, the 'wishbone' for the front axle will have to come off,,,I'm not sue about this,,going from a weak memory, been a long time since I had a 190....


Posted By: DSeries4
Date Posted: 10 Mar 2020 at 8:19pm
Yes, the front axle needs to be removed.  Can't drop the oil pan with the axle in place.  Having said that, I would recommend an out of frame rebuild.  I strongly suggest replacing the cam bearings too.


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'49 G, '54 WD45, '55 CA, '56 WD45D, '57 WD45, '58 D14, '59 D14, '60 D14, '63 D15D, '66 D15II, '66 D21II, '67 D17IV, '67 D17IVD, '67 190XTD, '73 620, '76 185, '77 175, '84 8030, '85 6080


Posted By: AC720Man
Date Posted: 10 Mar 2020 at 8:22pm
Wishbone and front axle I would think would need to be rolled out. I had to drop the wishbone and it’s rear brace and raise the frame just to change my oil pan gasket.

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1968 B-208, 1976 720 (2 of them)Danco brush hog, single bottom plow,52" snow thrower, belly mower,rear tine tiller, rear blade, front blade, 57"sickle bar,1983 917 hydro, 1968 7hp sno-bee, 1968 190XTD


Posted By: Alex09(WI)
Date Posted: 10 Mar 2020 at 9:51pm
Yes, ike others have said, the frontend needs to be rolled away to remove the oil pan. By the time you do that, another 10 min and you could have the engine off the torque tube for an out of frame rebuild. If you do that, you can inspect the clutch, flywheel, relace rear seal, and replace torque tube input seals, throwout bearing/pilot bearing.


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Posted By: festus51
Date Posted: 11 Mar 2020 at 7:39am
Thanks for all the replies.  I never like the idea of crawling under tractor with out the axle attached.  So it will be out of frame and the engine will get the total treatment.

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We the unwilling Led by the unqualified Doing the impossible for the Ungrateful


Posted By: LeonR2013
Date Posted: 11 Mar 2020 at 8:27am
Never worked on one but from what I hear be real careful about the liner protrusion and fit.       Leon


Posted By: DanWi
Date Posted: 11 Mar 2020 at 6:03pm
Technically when the front end is rolled away there is only 1, 1/2 in bolt holding the motor to the rearend  so always a good idea to support it when you get that far.


Posted By: DSeries4
Date Posted: 11 Mar 2020 at 8:43pm
Originally posted by LeonR2013 LeonR2013 wrote:

Never worked on one but from what I hear be real careful about the liner protrusion and fit.       Leon


Not a real problem on these engines.  Sleeve protrusion is an issue for the older diesels:  230, 262 and 175 cubes.


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'49 G, '54 WD45, '55 CA, '56 WD45D, '57 WD45, '58 D14, '59 D14, '60 D14, '63 D15D, '66 D15II, '66 D21II, '67 D17IV, '67 D17IVD, '67 190XTD, '73 620, '76 185, '77 175, '84 8030, '85 6080


Posted By: youngorange2000
Date Posted: 12 Mar 2020 at 1:42pm
I have taken my oil pan off whit out removing the axle completely, I did my in frame that way. I had to jack up the torque tube (using a 6x6 oak block between the jack and the cast housing) intel the front wheels were just off the ground. Then I used a floor jack and wooden block to lift the very back pivot point of the axle just enough to remove the big bolt/pivot pin then when the jack was released there was enough space to get the pan out. IIRC I had to slide the pan forward some then spin it 90* and it slid out no problem. And the oil pump came out no problem with the axle still fully attached at the front. That was my experience with it   


Posted By: Lonn
Date Posted: 12 Mar 2020 at 3:22pm
Originally posted by youngorange2000 youngorange2000 wrote:

I have taken my oil pan off whit out removing the axle completely, I did my in frame that way. I had to jack up the torque tube (using a 6x6 oak block between the jack and the cast housing) intel the front wheels were just off the ground. Then I used a floor jack and wooden block to lift the very back pivot point of the axle just enough to remove the big bolt/pivot pin then when the jack was released there was enough space to get the pan out. IIRC I had to slide the pan forward some then spin it 90* and it slid out no problem. And the oil pump came out no problem with the axle still fully attached at the front. That was my experience with it   
I've done the same too..... way back at the dealership.


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Posted By: DrAllis
Date Posted: 12 Mar 2020 at 3:48pm
By the time you get done wrestling out six sleeves, six piston/conn rod assemblies, 7 (x2) main bearings, etc, etc, you'll wish you'd have taken the time to just roll the front axle ahead four feet and get it out of the way. Before you do anything, dump 2 gallons of diesel fuel into the crankcase and let it run for a few minutes before you drain it and take the oil pan down. You'll like how nice and clean it is inside after a diesel fuel bath.



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