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One wire alternator wiring diagram

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Category: Allis Chalmers
Forum Name: Farm Equipment
Forum Description: everything about Allis-Chalmers farm equipment
URL: https://www.allischalmers.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=168330
Printed Date: 09 Jun 2025 at 1:59pm
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Topic: One wire alternator wiring diagram
Posted By: 1947WC
Subject: One wire alternator wiring diagram
Date Posted: 14 Feb 2020 at 1:02pm
Show me a one wire alternator wiring diagram



Replies:
Posted By: jaybmiller
Date Posted: 14 Feb 2020 at 1:44pm
One wire goes from alternator stud to battery +ve. Yeah, it's that simple. All the 'smarts' are in the alternator.


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3 D-14s,A-C forklift, B-112
Kubota BX23S lil' TOOT( The Other Orange Tractor)

Never burn your bridges, unless you can walk on water


Posted By: 1947WC
Date Posted: 14 Feb 2020 at 2:47pm
Thank you JBMiller


Posted By: jaybmiller
Date Posted: 14 Feb 2020 at 3:24pm
I always try to help if I can...
A problem with 'one wire' alternators is their startup RPMs. You can get them to run better with a smaller pulley. Steve @B&B will KNOW what the RPM should be as I've yet to see any 'datasheet's on them at 'selling ' sites. They'll list volts, amps, sizes but not the important stuff !


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3 D-14s,A-C forklift, B-112
Kubota BX23S lil' TOOT( The Other Orange Tractor)

Never burn your bridges, unless you can walk on water


Posted By: lowell66dart
Date Posted: 14 Feb 2020 at 4:55pm
You can buy a self exciting alternator, no need to rev the engine. 

This is the way I've wired a few. Get a nice tinned terminal strip. Marine places have them. Blue Sea makes a nice one with a cover for less than $20. Run your wire from the one wire
 alternator to the terminal strip. Now run a wire from the terminal strip to the positive lug on your starter. Your battery is now being charged. The terminal strip can now be used to power anything else that need 12 volts. Very simple.

Not correct for any type of restoration but for a working tractor safer than a bunch of brittle wire.


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AC 6080 (8030,7060,200,175,D-17HC, 6040,160,6140 all gone) Farmall 1066 & 656 Hi-Clear (for sale), White 2-62 High Clearance, JD 4255 Hi Clear.


Posted By: C in Concord
Date Posted: 14 Feb 2020 at 8:48pm
I found this diagram helpful when I converted my C to 12v with a one wire alternator.



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Leave things better than you found them.

1941 Model C (restored 2020)


Posted By: Steve in NJ
Date Posted: 14 Feb 2020 at 10:48pm
Yikes! Using that diagram above is asking for trouble fir' sure with an Alternator doing the charging chores. Using an Ammeter AND the 3 postiion switch is looking for a fire or a BBQ on board! There's a handful of ways to wire your Tractor, but the above diagram is not the safe way. Get one wire to short, or the Ammeter to fail, and you got shish-ka-bob for wiring, and possibly loosing the Tractor and in a matter of seconds!  All I can suggest with this setup is to keep a fire extinguisher close by the drivers area. To each his own....


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39'RC, 43'WC, 48'B, 49'G, 50'WF, 65 Big 10, 67'B-110, 75'716H, 2-620's, & a Motorhead wife


Posted By: jaybmiller
Date Posted: 15 Feb 2020 at 5:57am
Gee Steve it's not that bad overall unless I'm missing something....
The fuse at the alternator protects it and 'stuff' after....
The fuse in the light switch will blow if lights or wiring short out.
However there should be a 'main' fuse at #(5), feed from battery to ammeter. That protects everything in case ammeter fails or anything 'downstream'.
If the decades old fibre step washers mounting the ammeter are replaced with nice, new nylon ones, it virtually eliminates 'ammeter meltdown' and  draining the battery with leakage from ammeter post to ground. Just curious as to what you see that my  eyes don't.


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3 D-14s,A-C forklift, B-112
Kubota BX23S lil' TOOT( The Other Orange Tractor)

Never burn your bridges, unless you can walk on water


Posted By: C in Concord
Date Posted: 15 Feb 2020 at 8:51am
Originally posted by Steve in NJ Steve in NJ wrote:

Yikes! Using that diagram above is asking for trouble fir' sure with an Alternator doing the charging chores. Using an Ammeter AND the 3 postiion switch is looking for a fire or a BBQ on board! There's a handful of ways to wire your Tractor, but the above diagram is not the safe way. Get one wire to short, or the Ammeter to fail, and you got shish-ka-bob for wiring, and possibly loosing the Tractor and in a matter of seconds!  All I can suggest with this setup is to keep a fire extinguisher close by the drivers area. To each his own....

No fire, BBQ, or shish-ka-bob since converting... Sounds like you're h-angry Steve . I'm just trying to help the guy out. If you really think that diagram does more harm than good, please be constructive and post your "safe way" diagram.

Originally posted by jaybmiller jaybmiller wrote:

Gee Steve it's not that bad overall unless I'm missing something....
The fuse at the alternator protects it and 'stuff' after....
The fuse in the light switch will blow if lights or wiring short out.
However there should be a 'main' fuse at #(5), feed from battery to ammeter. That protects everything in case ammeter fails or anything 'downstream'.
If the decades old fibre step washers mounting the ammeter are replaced with nice, new nylon ones, it virtually eliminates 'ammeter meltdown' and draining the battery with leakage from ammeter post to ground. Just curious as to what you see that my eyes don't.

Thank you for the constructive notes JayB. I'm going to take a look at adding that fuse and checking the washers on the ammeter (a voltmeter is in my future). System's been working well for nearly a year now, but there's always room for improvement, especially when it comes to safety.

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Leave things better than you found them.

1941 Model C (restored 2020)


Posted By: jaybmiller
Date Posted: 15 Feb 2020 at 9:13am
The problem I see with ammeters is lack of maintenance. 50 years ago they were installed with cheap 'fibre' ( aka paper) insulating washers. Over time ,they breakdown due to heat, water, heck 'old age'..... and allow a constant trickle of current to flow from the power studs to ground. This small current flow is why after a month or two of storage , 'grr..%$%(*^& battery's dead again' .
I remove the ammeter, clean up the studs, paint the U-shaped retaining  strap and use nylon stepped washers. I also place a flat washer between every lug and one under the nut. This keeps the wires from turning when you tighten the nut( old Bell telephone trick).
You also need to look at them once in awhile ! Spiders and wasps can get in and make nests, and the 'trickle' of current flows again....**&&^ battery's dead, arrgh !


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3 D-14s,A-C forklift, B-112
Kubota BX23S lil' TOOT( The Other Orange Tractor)

Never burn your bridges, unless you can walk on water


Posted By: MikeinLcoMo
Date Posted: 15 Feb 2020 at 9:19am
What amp fuses are we looking at?

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39B 42B 48C SFW 52Cub Cub Cadet 70 S14 Speedex M14 Speedex S18 Speedex


Posted By: C in Concord
Date Posted: 16 Feb 2020 at 9:59am
Originally posted by MikeinLcoMo MikeinLcoMo wrote:


What amp fuses are we looking at?


Depends... I've read the old ammeters were rated for 30 amps, so that is the limit for the diagram above. If your wiring gauge and length can support 30 amps, ( http://www.offroaders.com/technical/12-volt-wiring-tech-gauge-to-amps/" rel="nofollow - link to table ), you should be able to put a 30 amp fuse between the alternator and ammeter. If you have lights, each light circuit fuse should be set based on the draw, light wattage / voltage, x quantity of lights. Again, with sufficient wiring gauge and length to support.

As an example, my system is ~5ft. of 10ga. wire with a 30 amp fuse between the alternator and original ammeter. I have three 27watt LED flood lights on ~5ft. of 16ga. protected by a 7.5 amp fuse ((27watts/12volts) x 3 lamps= 6.75amps).

I'm sure I've over simplified for our electrical experts, but it works.



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Leave things better than you found them.

1941 Model C (restored 2020)


Posted By: Steve in NJ
Date Posted: 16 Feb 2020 at 11:37am
H-angry? What does that mean?  Thought I explained in my post. You don't need another diagram. Loose the Ammeter, and the three position switch. Install a Voltmeter and a good 15-20 amp Headlight switch, and there's a great start to making it safer. Just trying to help. Wasn't my intent to offend anyone......
Steve@B&B


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39'RC, 43'WC, 48'B, 49'G, 50'WF, 65 Big 10, 67'B-110, 75'716H, 2-620's, & a Motorhead wife


Posted By: Brian Jasper co. Ia
Date Posted: 16 Feb 2020 at 12:05pm
Originally posted by jaybmiller jaybmiller wrote:

The problem I see with ammeters is lack of maintenance. 50 years ago they were installed with cheap 'fibre' ( aka paper) insulating washers. Over time ,they breakdown due to heat, water, heck 'old age'..... and allow a constant trickle of current to flow from the power studs to ground. This small current flow is why after a month or two of storage , 'grr..%$%(*^& battery's dead again' .
I remove the ammeter, clean up the studs, paint the U-shaped retaining  strap and use nylon stepped washers. I also place a flat washer between every lug and one under the nut. This keeps the wires from turning when you tighten the nut( old Bell telephone trick).
You also need to look at them once in awhile ! Spiders and wasps can get in and make nests, and the 'trickle' of current flows again....**&&^ battery's dead, arrgh !
That's interesting about the paper fiber washers. A little damp and they leak, I hadn't thought about that, but it makes sense. Another thing that runs a battery dead over time is not cleaning the top off. Any moisture on the top between the posts and that will slowly drain them.

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"Any man who thinks he can be happy and prosperous by letting the government take care of him better take a closer look at the American Indian." Henry Ford


Posted By: C in Concord
Date Posted: 16 Feb 2020 at 12:22pm
Originally posted by Steve in NJ Steve in NJ wrote:

H-angry? What does that mean?  Thought I explained in my post. You don't need another diagram. Loose the Ammeter, and the three position switch. Install a Voltmeter and a good 15-20 amp Headlight switch, and there's a great start to making it safer. Just trying to help. Wasn't my intent to offend anyone......
Steve@B&B

No worries Steve.



It's a play on the food/cooking metaphors you used in your last post. Meant to be light-hearted.

Thank you for reconstructing the diagram with the voltmeter and headlight switch suggestions on this post.

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Leave things better than you found them.

1941 Model C (restored 2020)


Posted By: Alberta Phil
Date Posted: 16 Feb 2020 at 3:12pm
H-angry.  Never seen that word before!!  Describes me if I don't get fed on a regular basis!  Just ask my daughter or ex-wife!!LOL


Posted By: AaronSEIA
Date Posted: 16 Feb 2020 at 5:08pm
Originally posted by Alberta Phil Alberta Phil wrote:

H-angry.  Never seen that word before!!  Describes me if I don't get fed on a regular basis!  Just ask my daughter or ex-wife!!LOL

Snickers used it in their TV advertising a few years ago.  Made for funny commercials.
AaronSEIA


Posted By: Steve in NJ
Date Posted: 17 Feb 2020 at 6:40am
Ben, thanks for esssplaining that. Never heard of that before either. LOL!  I guess when you get older, you don't pay much attention to the new metaphors. Being married to an Italian wife who is kick a$$ in the kitchen, I don't miss to many meals...  Thumbs Up
Steve@B&B


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39'RC, 43'WC, 48'B, 49'G, 50'WF, 65 Big 10, 67'B-110, 75'716H, 2-620's, & a Motorhead wife


Posted By: jaybmiller
Date Posted: 17 Feb 2020 at 6:57am
gotta be homemade pasta Big smile, homemade sauceBig smilelucky man !



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3 D-14s,A-C forklift, B-112
Kubota BX23S lil' TOOT( The Other Orange Tractor)

Never burn your bridges, unless you can walk on water


Posted By: Steve in NJ
Date Posted: 17 Feb 2020 at 7:05am
You nailed it Jay!  I should be 300 lbs by now!! If it wasn't for me being constantly on the roll, I probably would be tippin' the scales pretty high, but I'm a little half of that weight and trying to stay there. Its tough though...  LOL!  

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39'RC, 43'WC, 48'B, 49'G, 50'WF, 65 Big 10, 67'B-110, 75'716H, 2-620's, & a Motorhead wife


Posted By: jaybmiller
Date Posted: 17 Feb 2020 at 7:40am
Look at it this way, who BETTER than you to ENJOY homemade pasta and sauce !!!
Course NOW I'm hungry...too bad I don't have my passport...sniff,sniff.

Jay


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3 D-14s,A-C forklift, B-112
Kubota BX23S lil' TOOT( The Other Orange Tractor)

Never burn your bridges, unless you can walk on water


Posted By: chaskaduo
Date Posted: 17 Feb 2020 at 7:58am
Wow a buck fifty, you must not get wet coming in from the car in the rain. LOL  Me, 235 down from 290's eight - ten years ago and I get soaked coming in. Wink

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1938 B, 79 Dynamark 11/36 6spd, 95 Weed-Eater 16hp, 2010 Bolens 14hp



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