185 Starts, stops, have to prime again.
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Category: Allis Chalmers
Forum Name: Farm Equipment
Forum Description: everything about Allis-Chalmers farm equipment
URL: https://www.allischalmers.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=167797
Printed Date: 15 Jul 2025 at 5:43pm
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Topic: 185 Starts, stops, have to prime again.
Posted By: Samos
Subject: 185 Starts, stops, have to prime again.
Date Posted: 27 Jan 2020 at 11:07am
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My 185 has been hard to start for quite a while now, have to use starting fluid. Now she needs priming she will then start run for 30 to 90 seconds and stops. The priming pump will have no resistance until I pump it a few times. Checked all the fuel lines tightened the connections. I found a diesel leak on the Roosa Master DBGFC 637-4JN (4024596) injector pump, where the throttle shaft enters the pump. I would like to rebuild the pump even if this is not causing my starting issues it still needs fixing. I need help, would a roosa service manual for D or DB be the correct one to buy and which service kit or kits should I buy. Would it be best to strip the pump first to find out which parts need replacing, assuming I can tell. Thanks in advance. |
Replies:
Posted By: DrAllis
Date Posted: 27 Jan 2020 at 11:10am
| Remove the sediment glass bowl. Turn the petcock on 100%. There needs to be TWO STREAMS of fuel gushing from the sediment bowl base. If not, the base needs to be unscrewed/removed and unplug the blockage of debris. While you're there, throw away the screen. If this isn't the problem, loosen the two flat blade screwdriver screws on the side of the injection pump and let it leak. Then, see if it stays running with a slight fuel leak. |
Posted By: Boss Man
Date Posted: 27 Jan 2020 at 6:02pm
| Unless you have the calibrating equipment I would just remove the pump and send or take it to a diesel specialists. The primer pump could be causing the leak down all so. I would start by replacing the primer pump and see what happens. They were a real sore spot on some engines |
Posted By: Dave in il
Date Posted: 28 Jan 2020 at 5:48pm
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Sounds like the hand primer, between the 190XT, 200 and 7060s I always kept a repair kit handy in my pickup. Actually there's still one in the center console, lol ------------- AGCO My Allis Gleaner Company |
Posted By: troym
Date Posted: 29 Jan 2020 at 7:17am
| pull the return fitting out of top of injection pump. if it remains running the pump is building pressure and cant release. there is a glass ball and spring in there that sometimes pluges with the rubber from the governor slip ring. it gets old and deteriorates. |
Posted By: bradley6874
Date Posted: 29 Jan 2020 at 8:14am
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Listen to what the dr said ...... A 185 has the fuel tank under the hood and above the primer and injection pump if it's sucking air its not getting fuel flow from the tank also if the return is pluged up its hard to prime cause you cant push air back to the tank ------------- You can wash the dirt off the body but you can’t wash the farmer out of the heart and soul |
Posted By: Gary Burnett
Date Posted: 29 Jan 2020 at 8:20am
exactly what happened to my 185.
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troym wrote:Posted By: DrAllis
Date Posted: 29 Jan 2020 at 9:10am
| You have to start with the fuel flow/sediment bowl first. Then, move onto the glass ball. Leaving the window loose on the pumps side helps diagnose whether the glass ball is plugged or not. |
Posted By: m16ty
Date Posted: 31 Jan 2020 at 8:52pm
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A manual for a DB is what you want. Just replacing the throttle shaft seal is super easy. You can also find reprints of AC injector pump manuals.
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Posted By: ac fleet
Date Posted: 01 Feb 2020 at 1:28pm
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The primer pump on my 190 gave out and the dealer in Gibson City refuse to sell me just the plunger stuff!--Said that I had to buy the whole pump at a cost of $ 185 at that time so I went down the street to NAPA and got an electric one for $ 50 and junked the manual one and put the electric one in its place. Never had a primer problem after that. Also stuff can get in the tank and plug the sediment bowls, sometimes requiring tank removal and cleaning, then work down from there with lines/filters. As for tearing into the injection pump,----better leave that to the guys that rebuild them! IF you open it and can't get it back together, you will now need a new pump because the shops won't undue your screw-up. ---Its your pump so do as you like! ------------- http://machinebuildersnetwork.com/ |
Posted By: Ilikeallis
Date Posted: 02 Feb 2020 at 5:09pm
| this happened to mine, how long can this go? |
Posted By: bradley6874
Date Posted: 03 Feb 2020 at 9:31am
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All these post and he still hasnt said if he has fuel flowing out of the tan or what he found ------------- You can wash the dirt off the body but you can’t wash the farmer out of the heart and soul |
Posted By: Samos
Date Posted: 04 Feb 2020 at 8:03pm
| Settle down bradley6874, I work in remote locations, long days, long shift, no grantee of internet. I checked the sediment bowl and had fuel flow there. That's as far as I have got -25C is not fun. I appreciate the advice. I like the idea of and electric fuel pump to replace the primer. |
Posted By: Samos
Date Posted: 04 Feb 2020 at 8:10pm
| Just happened to talk to the wife's cousin he's worked for Finning for ever. He 's going to come over and have a look. I had a similar issue before when the tank was rusting it would clog the sediment bowl up. had to remove the tank and use POUR 15 to coat the tank. Part of the problem could be waxing due to cold, its warmer at home now. I guess I will find out. |
Posted By: Samos
Date Posted: 09 Feb 2020 at 10:54am
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Yesterday Saturday Feb 8 -20C, Drained all the fuel out of the tank, Two nice streams from the sediment bowl. Removed the fuel filter warmed it in my shop, emptied out the fuel and filled it 50% with conditioner anti gel. Opened up the small timing cover to empty more fuel out. Put it all together. Poured the rest of the conditioner in to the fuel tank with new diesel and another conditioner/injection cleaner. Opened the sediment valve, fuel didn't fill the bowl until I pumped the priming pump, then it gushed in. Started the tractor with either and she ran. I cleared snow for about 30 to 45 minutes (seemed to be lacking a bit of power) then she stopped. I opened and checked the fuel cap for any suction as I opened it, didn't here any suction, would not start. Usually when I crank her I get white smoke from the exhaust which I assume is unburnt fuel, but not this time. Put the battery charger back on, I will have a go tomorrow as long as its not too cold. I will check the check ball in the return line as well. Any ideas?
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Posted By: DrAllis
Date Posted: 09 Feb 2020 at 11:23am
| Remove the check ball from the return fitting on the top cover of the injection pump. You now are fairly certain you have a good supply of fuel. You did leave the screen out of the sediment bowl, right??? That is the FIRST place they will gell in the wintertime. |
Posted By: injpumpEd
Date Posted: 09 Feb 2020 at 11:36am
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As Dr Allis said, knock the ball out to get by for a little while, until you can be down for a bit to get the pump properly serviced. While us pump guys are not geniuses by any means, the do it your selfer projects don't usually end well. I really don't like working on pumps the owners first tried to "fix it myself". There's no substitute for the experience! ------------- 210 "too hot to farm" puller, part of the "insane pumpkin posse". Owner of Guenther Heritage Diesel, specializing in fuel injection systems on heritage era tractors. stock rebuilds to all out pullers! |
Posted By: Samos
Date Posted: 09 Feb 2020 at 3:11pm
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Thanks guys I'm heading out now, I didn't see a screen I seem to remember I removed it a long time ago. I think I will try to start it right away, if it runs for a while then stops it will tell me that pressure is building but I will remove the ball after the test. I will let you know. Cheers |