Well I had all this stuff out of my last project. I dont know if new gears are avaialble Might try Alex, or Sandy Lake? Might have to find good used unit/ gears??

I believe you have to take the center section out That is between the bell housing and the transmission? I am not the expert on this I do have some pictures if that would help. If you want to change the seals, Which I did also now would be the time. 

Other things would be to review hand clutch condition and the main clutch too.

Regards,

 Chris

These may not help you? Sounds like you have a pretty good idea about changing the gears.

if all you had wrong was the intermediate gear you can change that thru the pump and pto holes without removing frame rail or splitting tractor work best with a helper but sounds like you have a long list to fix. Sugarmaker gave you good advice, time for fixing everything in the case.

I believe the seals  your asking about are around this portion of the main drive shaft. IIRC they are installed from the inside of the case.

 Also this picture shows how not to install the PTO gear system! Hint They have to go in after the bearing and upper drive gear are in place.

Regards,

 Chris

In fact, if you wiggle it right you can get it out without jamming the vales down.

I have to agree with what is said above that, if you intend to use the tractor as much as you do, that while it is out review what items you want to work on so when re-assembled you will have a good working tractor.  

Good Luck!

Bill Long

I am not the best guy on this but I will give it a try. I believe the gear you speak of is the large gear on the shaft with the bolt. Well that shaft has to come out to remove that gear assembly.

The bolt has a taper on if I remember correctly it locates the pin that the gears ride on.

The hydraulic oil travels between the transmission and the hyd reservoir thur bad seals on the main drive shaft. The seals are back to back.

Others with more experience will help you better than me.

Regards,

 Chris

Allis Wd45 wrote: So, long story I was running our Pto manure agitator with my Wd45 and the Pto shaft came apart when I was dumping a load of manure when I came back to the tank the tractors PTO shaft was bent and the Ujoint piece of the agitator shaft had beaten around on the back of the tractor until it bent the tractors shaft and the PTO was still in gear and it wasn’t turning. I tore it down lastnight and the small gear Intermediate gear is missing 3/4 of its teeth the idler gear is missing a few teeth and the slider gear is missing a tooth. So I’ll need a new intermediate gear, Idler and Sliding gear that engages the pto and the shaft. Would you guys recommend getting new gears or finding good used ones? I also have to get that intermediate gear off I have heard that you can remove the frame rail and get it through the hydraulic pump hole or split the tractor behind the transmission. What is the best way to get to it, it also leaks hydraulic oil into the transmission so I would like to fix that while it’s apart also. Thanks

If you do not want to fix your seals that are causing the hyd oil to leak into the transmission oil, then you do not have to split the tractor to replace just the intermediate PTO gear. Your seals that are in front of the hand clutch and pto drive gear are between the hyd compartement and the transmission oil compartment. There are 2 seals back to back like Sugarmaker says (see his picture) that are shot causing the oil to leak into the trans fluid. To replace those seals, you have to split the tractor in front of the transmission and remove the hand clutch and the pto drive gear.

     It is possible to replace the intermediate pto gear without splitting the tractor. Remove the hydraulic pump and the pto gearbox. Remove the RH channel iron side frame and remove the small tapered bolt. Slide or press the Intermediate pto gear shaft into the hyd pump compartment and the intermediate pto gears and washers will come out through the bottom hole where the pto gearbox was bolted.

     MAKE SURE you have the proper shear bolt holding the pto shaft to the pto gearbox output stub!! That protects the gears that you have just shelled the teeth off of. I have the shear bolts new or used and I also have the gears (used) you need but I see a couple guys beat me to it. To answer you r question about used vs new gears, if you put the proper shear bolt in, good used gears will suffice. If you a perfectionist, go with new gears, an AGCO dealer should have them, but I expect they would be pricy compared to $50-$150 for the 3 used ones you need.

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1. seals:

this is the forward seal in the bell housing:

PTO drive gear and shaft out.

Just the shaft and the collars:

If you do split the tractor: i had to use a puller to remove the gear that drives the PTO:

There is a snap ring that holds it in place that has to come off first:

This is the driving flange that your hand clutch bolts too. 4 bolts with lock tabs.

If you have the hand clutch out might as well check this bronze bearing where the two shafts mate too. Mine was bad:

Found this you have to have the bearing in place before you install the PTO gear assembly:

 

Yes I believe I just ordered two of the output shaft seals and installed them in the same direction.

Regards,

 Chris

Hand clutch review:

 I was speaking of the shims in the hand clutch. I think we have a couple shim topics going on at the same time.

Good to know those paper shims are still available too!

 I just spoke with Brenda at Sandy Lake today! Good folks there!

Regards,

 Chris

 Ok I have forgot most of the assembly/ diss assembly on those gears. Guess i blocked it out of my mind?

The shaft has to slide through the gears and collars. The big end of the shaft is opposite the large gear and the shaft has to move the big end out first. Correct? You should be able to tap on the small end of the shaft just below the hand clutch assembly?

If this doesnt make sence I could be looking at it wrong. This is the point where I would call Don (MO)!:)

Glad you got the parts and I hope your in a warm shop too!

Regards,

 Chris

You probably have the back end of the shaft out of its recess.  Reach in from the bottom opening where the PTO drop box was and lift up the intermediate gear with your left hand.  At the same time, use a channel-lock or battery pliers to increase your purchase on the front end of the shaft as you pull it out.  You will either have to get in there and manipulate this yourself, or get a helper to handle one end of the shaft for you.  There is a lot of weight hanging on the back of the shaft.  You will have to manipulate that weight while giving a firm pull on the front end.

You will get this with perseverance, as have many others of us. 

I do not think that you will easily mar that shaft.  But, if you did, a file would quickly remove any protrusions.  Your first job is to remove it.  The shaft is double-indexed for orientation.  There is the dimple and there is the flat side on the rear end of the shaft.  If you are able to get a grip on the front end of the shaft and turn it, you know that you are free of the rear recess.  You have already moved it forward by tapping on the punch.  The rest is just likely work and patience.  Some do come harder than others.  Try rotating the shaft with pliers.  If it turns, you have another means of working it loose.

Some work here can save a lot of work later.  Don't worry about scars on the shaft; the set screw is what will keep it in place when you rebuild.  Use your imagination and get in there and get rough if you have to.  You are working with WWII technology and it tolerates rough handling.

 Sounds like good advice from stu! I was thinking that maybe the shaft had some damaged due to the failure?? I have only done one and its shaft slid out pretty easy, and I did have the hand clutch out.

 Now getting it back it with all the parts in place makes you hold your mouth just right and stand one one foot too!

 Regards,

 Chris

You know that the shaft may have been damaged during this event also. Just a guess. Might cause the shaft to have a burr? Have you reviewed the service manual and or called maybe Sandy Lake if Bill is still there? Someone said he retired? 

Regards,

 Chris

Is there enough space in the hand clutch compartment to put a clean socket up against the small end of the shaft and pry against it? Been too long since I messed with those gears and bearings to remember. Unfortunately as well, I had my tractor split apart when I did it though. Don't remember it being too difficult but like I said the tractor was split apart.

Also would be a very good idea to make sure that the 6 bolts that hold the hand clutch together are tight. You don't want all this work to be messed up if a bolt comes loose and falls out. I got a WD once that one entire side of the flange on the torque tube where the pto bolts to was blown off. The only thing that I could think of that could do that much damage to the casting was if one of those bolts fell down into the gears causing catastrophe. When I disassembled the tractor there was a bolt missing off the hand clutch.

I got a notification that this thread came back to life.  Don't know that I can add much, but I want to ask SteveM about his method, to see if I can picture it.

SteveM, do I understand correctly that you were working on your back and going up from underneath?  If so, then was your pry point on the front (end of tractor) on the intermediate gear?  Did you find that as the shaft crept forward, it left a space in the cast housing bore that allowed you to insert 1/3 moon thin spacers that allowed you to fit a pry between the washer (or spacer) of the gear and actually pry into the bore via the spacer?

It was a very long time ago that I did this job, and mine came relatively easy, so I did not use the opportunity to see if pry space was created.  It is hard to create a picture with words, but if I can picture what you did, Allis Wd45 likely can too.

Let's see if I can do this from an old pic.

Viola

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