Can't steer Allis 5020 4WD
Printed From: Unofficial Allis
Category: Allis Chalmers
Forum Name: Farm Equipment
Forum Description: everything about Allis-Chalmers farm equipment
URL: https://www.allischalmers.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=165155
Printed Date: 24 Jun 2025 at 7:23am
Software Version: Web Wiz Forums 11.10 - http://www.webwizforums.com
Topic: Can't steer Allis 5020 4WD
Posted By: Brujan
Subject: Can't steer Allis 5020 4WD
Date Posted: 19 Oct 2019 at 6:11am
|
It is getting increasingly harder to steer this tractor. I know that this tractor was hard to steer the day it was new but there is something going wrong. It is so hard to turn the wheel when not in motion that I need to pick the front end up with the bucket to turn the steering. It is concerning that some thing could snap with the steering wheel if I force it. You can see it flex in a way that is not normal. I was told that this is normal for this tractor but I am sure that it is not. There are original type tires on this tractor I have lubed and looked at every thing I know to look at and can see nothing wrong. I have owned this tractor foe 3 years now and the steering is getting worse. So, I am hoping that someone that knows this model 5020 can tell me what is happening too it. Thanks in advance, Bruce |
Replies:
Posted By: jaybmiller
Date Posted: 19 Oct 2019 at 6:23am
|
OK, I looked on tractor data and it says manual steering...so.... there is NO WAY it should be 'hard to steer'. I'd lift the front end up, disconnect the rod that connects steering wheel to front wheels. They should EASILY be able to turn left-right-left. if not, then the 'binding' is in there. Now disconnect the 'connecting rod' or whatever attaches left and right wheels. turn left wheel left-right-left. If it's stiff, problem is there. Now check right wheel, if stiff, it's also got problem. The 4wd 'ball jont'( whatever it's called) could need greasing or rebuilding. I'll lay odds no one has serviced it in 10-20 years ? hope this gets you started... Jay ------------- 3 D-14s,A-C forklift, B-112 Kubota BX23S lil' TOOT( The Other Orange Tractor) Never burn your bridges, unless you can walk on water |
Posted By: Dakota Dave
Date Posted: 20 Oct 2019 at 11:40am
| If it was mine id tear the rreplaceable front end apart look for rusted joints in the front half shafts ive seen the ujoints inside the syeering knuckle break on older chevy trucks they get hard to steer for awhile then when it breaks you cant steer for you that would be very bad there are no hard parts for that frontend |
Posted By: CTuckerNWIL
Date Posted: 20 Oct 2019 at 11:49am
|
I would start, by looking at the bearings on the bottom of the front spindles. Once they start to go bad, they cause REAL hard steering with weight on the spindles, but you won't notice it at all with the wheels off the ground. ------------- http://www.ae-ta.com" rel="nofollow - http://www.ae-ta.com Lena 1935 WC12xxx, Willie 1951 CA6xx Dad bought new, 1954WD45 PS, 1960 D17 NF |
Posted By: DougG
Date Posted: 20 Oct 2019 at 2:43pm
| Grease it up ! I bought a 185 that set out un used and was real hard to turn the wheels tore the front end down and greased it up , and could steer with a finger, I know you cant do that with a 5020 as they are a muther to steer have no idea you,d do it with a loader on |
Posted By: oleblu72
Date Posted: 28 Oct 2019 at 6:04pm
|
Have you checked the steering box for lube how much play is in the steering box? I don't know if the 5020 has an adjustment on the side of the box or not and have you discovered defective in the front axle yet? Mark |
Posted By: Brujan
Date Posted: 28 Oct 2019 at 8:19pm
|
I found that the left hand half shells (this is 4wd) were extremely stiff. I dissasembeled, cleaned and lubricated everything. This helped tremendously. You only need to be strong in order to steer, not Superman to steer. I have found that the steering sector box is a resess in the top of the transmission case. It has no fill hole or drain hole. It is lubricated for life. To access to the components within or check the lubricant a whole bunch of stuff has to come off, covering a, gas tank, braces and brackets. It's ton of work if you want to see if the lubricant is ok. I have figured out that I can drill a hole through the case to get into see if there is viable lubricant. I can use a magnet in the hole to clean any metal debris left from drilling and tapping a hole. I then will install a grease zirk and use corn head grease to fill any need for additional lubricants. It's supposed to be lifelong lubricated but after 38 years I am not sure. |
Posted By: CTuckerNWIL
Date Posted: 29 Oct 2019 at 8:03pm
Keep a shop vac running and held close to the drill bit, while drilling might help a lot, and let up on pressure to break the chips short enough to suck up. ------------- http://www.ae-ta.com" rel="nofollow - http://www.ae-ta.com Lena 1935 WC12xxx, Willie 1951 CA6xx Dad bought new, 1954WD45 PS, 1960 D17 NF |
Brujan wrote:Posted By: NomoreJohnDeere
Date Posted: 30 Oct 2019 at 1:05pm
|
put your drill bit threw a small magnet ------------- HD3 |
Posted By: Brujan
Date Posted: 30 Oct 2019 at 7:02pm
| Hey thanks guys for the tips, I will be getting into the hole drilling in week or so. We are having winter weather now so.... I will post how it goes when I do the work. |