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7060 electrical

Printed From: Unofficial Allis
Category: Allis Chalmers
Forum Name: Farm Equipment
Forum Description: everything about Allis-Chalmers farm equipment
URL: https://www.allischalmers.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=163709
Printed Date: 14 Dec 2025 at 12:46pm
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Topic: 7060 electrical
Posted By: T in ne
Subject: 7060 electrical
Date Posted: 18 Aug 2019 at 7:56am
Boss just got a red-belly 7060, that the batteries are connected in series. This isn't right, it's a 12 volt system, right? I had a 7580 for a couple years and it was 12, but want to make sure it wasn't an option.

How hard is it to add a third remote? If the ac works it'll be the back-up rake tractor and the Rowse takes 3 remotes.

Will the transmission and hydraulic system be happy with hy-gaurd fluid? The main tractors are green so we get hy-guard in bulk for them and the trucks.

I didn't know there was a bypass filter, were they stock? This one's on the left side, getting changed, they scratched the hours into them pretty hard, and the bare metal rusted.

It's been sitting for maybe two years, should we be concerned about problems with the Roosa Master pump?

Thanks



Replies:
Posted By: jaybmiller
Date Posted: 18 Aug 2019 at 9:57am
I suspect 2 big 6 volt batteries.... 3 water caps = 6v, 6 caps=12 volt..
I'm assuming she's a diesel..
and that's all I can help you with...


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3 D-14s,A-C forklift, B-112
Kubota BX23S lil' TOOT( The Other Orange Tractor)

Never burn your bridges, unless you can walk on water


Posted By: Ron(AB)
Date Posted: 18 Aug 2019 at 10:56am
Third remote should be easy enough, if you can get parts from a wrecker.

A pic from the bypass filter would explain a lot.

Is this a power shift?


Posted By: Ben (MI)
Date Posted: 18 Aug 2019 at 11:44am
My 7060 has 2 12 volt batteries connected in series. I believe some run 4 in series. Hy gard will be fine for the hydraulics/trans/rear end. I have a third spin on filter in the left side as well. Someone else will help with the other questions. Mine is a power shift and has
been a very good tractor.

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Part time farming with a 1980 7060 and 1984 F3 hydro.


Posted By: Tbone95
Date Posted: 18 Aug 2019 at 12:21pm
Originally posted by Ben (MI) Ben (MI) wrote:

My 7060 has 2 12 volt batteries connected in series. I believe some run 4 in series. Hy gard will be fine for the hydraulics/trans/rear end. I have a third spin on filter in the left side as well. Someone else will help with the other questions. Mine is a power shift and has
been a very good tractor.

Really ??? Not only you have 2 in series, but some run 4 in series? 48 volts nominal?😳


Posted By: Ben (MI)
Date Posted: 18 Aug 2019 at 12:45pm
Ok, I am no mechanic. When 2 batteries are connected together, what is happening??? I don't know what to call it.

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Part time farming with a 1980 7060 and 1984 F3 hydro.


Posted By: exSW
Date Posted: 18 Aug 2019 at 2:14pm
Two batteries hooked in series will combine the voltage
12+12=24
 
Two batteries hooked in Parallel will keep the voltage at 12 volts and combine the amperage.
600cca+600cca=1200cca (cold cranking amps)


Posted By: Tbone95
Date Posted: 18 Aug 2019 at 2:41pm
Positives connected together, then connected to tractor. Negatives connected together then to tractor. This is parallel connection. As stated, delivers more amperage.


Posted By: jiminnd
Date Posted: 18 Aug 2019 at 6:20pm
My 7030 came new with four batteries option, was still 12 volt.

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1945 C, 1949 WF and WD, 1981 185, 1982 8030, unknown D14(nonrunner)


Posted By: bigal121892
Date Posted: 18 Aug 2019 at 6:27pm
Batteries hooked in series, add the voltages together, amp output is equal to whatever a single battery would be. Batteries hooked in parallel, add the amps together on each battery, voltage will be equal to the output of whatever a single battery would be.


Posted By: T in ne
Date Posted: 18 Aug 2019 at 6:33pm
I was pretty sure it wasn't right. Looks to be a pair of group 31, and one negative is hooked to the other positive.

It's a power director.

The cab interior isn't even in that bad of shape. Didn't look at the hours, I'm headed up to unload it as soon as my brownies are done baking.


Posted By: T in ne
Date Posted: 18 Aug 2019 at 6:38pm
And I was thinking more power beyond option on the hydraulics. It's primary purpose is to go run an auger during corn harvest, and maybe a drill or something when someone has a breakdown.

It will be getting another step added. The boss and I aren't as light and young as we once were.


Posted By: DrAllis
Date Posted: 18 Aug 2019 at 7:16pm
If you are going to change the step, replace the steering wheel too for the smaller diameter/flatter design. Makes cab entry and dismounting much easier.


Posted By: darrel in ND
Date Posted: 18 Aug 2019 at 10:05pm
The easiest way to get three remotes would be to buy an electric/hydraulic valve multiplier. Darrel


Posted By: SteveM C/IL
Date Posted: 18 Aug 2019 at 11:06pm
Originally posted by darrel in ND darrel in ND wrote:

The easiest way to get three remotes would be to buy an electric/hydraulic valve multiplier. Darrel
X2  I'm looking for easy these days.


Posted By: jaybmiller
Date Posted: 19 Aug 2019 at 5:55am
OK I just looked at tractor site ...
it says... 12 volt  ...2 batteries ( 4 optional)

Which make sense to me .
2 batteries in parallel ( + to +, - to -) is 12 volt 'battery', lots of amps.
4 batteries, 12 volt ,even more amps.

You need a LOT of amps to spin diesel, especially in cold weather AND to power glowplugs.

It's very,very unlikey it's 24 volt  unless made specifically for say the Army ?

Jay


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3 D-14s,A-C forklift, B-112
Kubota BX23S lil' TOOT( The Other Orange Tractor)

Never burn your bridges, unless you can walk on water


Posted By: T in ne
Date Posted: 19 Aug 2019 at 7:45pm
Ok, it is wired 12 volt with a kinda small positive cable, now that we got the batteries swung out. And charged. Probably going to have to throw a set in it. Forgot to try the air. Radio works.

There is what appears to be a weep hole in the oil cooler above the rear oil filter. I have a feeling it's not supposed to be there.

The hydraulic filter light is on, and there's green lines about half throttle on the dash and throttle marking low idle. But the 3 pt pops right up.


Posted By: jaybmiller
Date Posted: 19 Aug 2019 at 7:50pm
I'd expect cable similar to welding cables, fat like your thumb NOT lil pinky ones !
When installing 'sets' of batteries(more than one), it's important that they all be the same make/model and best if they're of the same 'batch'. If they're mismatched, you'll only get whatever the lesser one is rated for. The other won't get a good, true full charge.

Jay


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3 D-14s,A-C forklift, B-112
Kubota BX23S lil' TOOT( The Other Orange Tractor)

Never burn your bridges, unless you can walk on water


Posted By: T in ne
Date Posted: 20 Aug 2019 at 9:23am
Familiar with sets of batteries.

5 semi tractors, 3 belt trailers, swather, round baler, rowse rake, 2 newer jd's for hay, I think 3 2290s for back-up/rentals. When a truck or trailer breaks I'm the one who gets to figure out the problem.

I get to back the 7060 off the trailer, no one else on the place has ever driven an Allis.


Posted By: jaybmiller
Date Posted: 20 Aug 2019 at 9:36am
I learned about the semi setup( 4 in parallel) when I got a 'set'... 3 same, 1 oddball. Wouldn't start the guys semi, but I used them as singles, here and there.


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3 D-14s,A-C forklift, B-112
Kubota BX23S lil' TOOT( The Other Orange Tractor)

Never burn your bridges, unless you can walk on water


Posted By: Joe(TX)
Date Posted: 20 Aug 2019 at 9:53am
Originally posted by T in ne T in ne wrote:

And I was thinking more power beyond option on the hydraulics. It's primary purpose is to go run an auger during corn harvest, and maybe a drill or something when someone has a breakdown.

It will be getting another step added. The boss and I aren't as light and young as we once were.
You cannot do power beyond on the 7000 series. They have closed center load sensing. Power beyond is for open center. The easiest way to add a third remote is to get another valve section and add it to the control valve. That's how the factory did it. There is an empty spot in the console for the lever.


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1970 190XT, 1973 200, 1962 D-19 Diesel, 1979 7010, 1957 WD45, 1950 WD, 1961 D17, Speed Patrol, D14, All crop 66 big bin, 180 diesel, 1970 170 diesel, FP80 forklift. Gleaner A


Posted By: T in ne
Date Posted: 20 Aug 2019 at 10:02am
Originally posted by Joe(TX) Joe(TX) wrote:


You cannot do power beyond on the 7000 series. They have closed center load sensing. Power beyond is for open center. The easiest way to add a third remote is to get another valve section and add it to the control valve. That's how the factory did it. There is an empty spot in the console for the lever.

Thanks, didn't have to do much maintenance on the 7580, oil changes and a muffler, set the power adjust wheels out for the plow. So I really don't know much about these outside what I'm reading online.

Is this the expensive alternator?


Posted By: critter
Date Posted: 20 Aug 2019 at 10:31am
The weep hole is supposed to be there, it tells you if your o rings start leaking.

The alternator in the picture is a "cheap" delco style.


Posted By: T in ne
Date Posted: 20 Aug 2019 at 11:24am
Thanks. Only getting 13 volts at idle, up to 13.5, so it probably needs replaced.


Posted By: GM Guy
Date Posted: 21 Aug 2019 at 9:26pm
Like said above, 12 volt, either 2 standard or 4 optional, all in parallel.

I really hate top post, and love not only the price and availablity, but the flexibility of the threaded stud type Group 31 truck batteries that every big truck dealer sells on sales for well under 100 bucks, usually in the 70 range.

Whenever there is some sketchy cables, the whole setup is removed and repurposed on another one if good enough, or scrapped if corroded bad. I then replace it with 2/0 cables with the proper ends for the stud type battery.

I have my own hydraulic crimper (under 50 bucks for Taiwans finest) and buy my terminals and cable bulk. You can source all USA materials for reasonable prices on ebay, Waytec, etc.

Once I get the cable cut and terminals crimped, I will then put heatshrink on the ends to seal it, and on the positive lead going over the transmission I will add some of the split loom conduit to add an extra layer of protection against chafing.

Getting all new cables and batteries has taken a few of our hardest starters to a non-issue, start about anytime.

The spin-on bypass on the LH side was a factory update. you will find it on http://www.agcopartsbooks.com" rel="nofollow - www.agcopartsbooks.com It replaced the luber-finer up in the cowl.

Third remote on a 7000 series Allis is probably one of the easiest ones to add of any brand. a donor in a salvage yard is the only cost effective way to do it. Or like said above, a Fasse valve.


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Gleaner: the properly engineered and built combine.

If you need parts for your Gleaner, we are parting out A's through L2's, so we may be able to help.


Posted By: T in ne
Date Posted: 22 Aug 2019 at 8:16am
GM guy,
Our local napa store can make about any cable we might need. I've got the ground cable for my farmall B in the pick-up to get a new battery terminal crimped on this morning.

I've been thinking of suggesting getting the tractor cables changed over, so when we need tractor batteries, we can put new ones in a truck, and the used ones in the tractors. The trucks gotta go every day. These tractors, not so much.



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