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The B TDC on a cylinder

Printed From: Unofficial Allis
Category: Allis Chalmers
Forum Name: Farm Equipment
Forum Description: everything about Allis-Chalmers farm equipment
URL: https://www.allischalmers.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=162410
Printed Date: 06 Jun 2025 at 4:29pm
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Topic: The B TDC on a cylinder
Posted By: 2011dandd
Subject: The B TDC on a cylinder
Date Posted: 02 Jul 2019 at 1:55am
Hi guys

I had some trouble with hot starting the b then starting it at all so I have had the magneto rebuilt.
Only thing is I forgot to check which cylinder the rotor arm was on when I took the mag off.

So I’m asking for a fool proof way of knowing that number one cylinder is at tdc and not 180 degrees out, without taking the bonnet and rocker cover off.

Cheers guys



Replies:
Posted By: HoughMade
Date Posted: 02 Jul 2019 at 5:49am
#1 piston at the top, and the word “center” visible through the inspection hole on the left side of the bell housing. If you want to be super extra sure, take the valve cover off and both rocker arms on cylinder #1 should have some free play, in ther words, not pressing n the valve stem.

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1951 B


Posted By: Jim.ME
Date Posted: 02 Jul 2019 at 6:31am
#4 will be at the top the same time as #1, so you can't go by the mark alone, you need to be sure #1 is at the top of the compression stroke. #4 should be just completing its exhaust stroke at that time. If #4 is on its compression stroke you will be 180 out.

Remove all 4 spark plugs. You (or a helper) can hold a finger or thumb over the #1 sparkplug hole but if you have or can borrow a screw-in compression tester it will be easier to watch while you crank the engine over. Install the tester in #1 cylinder. Crank the engine over and watch the gauge. It should show pressure building as #1 comes up getting ready to fire. Once you see the pressure building watch, in the timing window, for the TDC/CENTER mark on the flywheel. When the mark is centered in the window you should be in the correct location. My thoughts, others may do it differently.


Posted By: Joe(TX)
Date Posted: 02 Jul 2019 at 12:11pm
It has to be TDC on the compression stroke a Jim said.

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1970 190XT, 1973 200, 1962 D-19 Diesel, 1979 7010, 1957 WD45, 1950 WD, 1961 D17, Speed Patrol, D14, All crop 66 big bin, 180 diesel, 1970 170 diesel, FP80 forklift. Gleaner A


Posted By: Gerald J.
Date Posted: 02 Jul 2019 at 12:41pm
There might be some help in the shop manual:

http://geraldj.networkiowa.com/Trees/Allis-Chalmers-G-B-C-CA-Service.pdf" rel="nofollow - http://geraldj.networkiowa.com/Trees/Allis-Chalmers-G-B-C-CA-Service.pdf 

Gerald J.


Posted By: 2011dandd
Date Posted: 02 Jul 2019 at 1:48pm
Cheers guys. I was being lazy I think I will be much better off taking the bonnet and rocker cover off and getting the valve position right to get tdc.

Cheers

Dan


Posted By: CTuckerNWIL
Date Posted: 03 Jul 2019 at 6:32am
Originally posted by 2011dandd 2011dandd wrote:

Cheers guys. I was being lazy I think I will be much better off taking the bonnet and rocker cover off and getting the valve position right to get tdc.

Cheers

Dan

That's a complete waste of time, when you can get TDC of the compression stroke by removing number 1 plug and feeling for compression as you turn it over.
 Unless you are in need of replacing the valve cover gasket that is!


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http://www.ae-ta.com" rel="nofollow - http://www.ae-ta.com
Lena 1935 WC12xxx, Willie 1951 CA6xx Dad bought new, 1954WD45 PS, 1960 D17 NF


Posted By: WF owner
Date Posted: 03 Jul 2019 at 9:18pm
This link may help:
http://dueyschutter.freeservers.com/photo6.html%20" rel="nofollow - http://dueyschutter.freeservers.com/photo6.html


Posted By: chaskaduo
Date Posted: 04 Jul 2019 at 2:13am
http://dueyschutter.freeservers.com/photo4.html" rel="nofollow - http://dueyschutter.freeservers.com/photo4.html

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1938 B, 79 Dynamark 11/36 6spd, 95 Weed-Eater 16hp, 2010 Bolens 14hp


Posted By: DaveKamp
Date Posted: 05 Jul 2019 at 12:33am
Leave the bonnet on, Dan-  finger over the plug hole takes but 20 seconds... 


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Ten Amendments, Ten Commandments, and one Golden Rule solve most every problem. Citrus hand-cleaner with Pumice does the rest.


Posted By: 2011dandd
Date Posted: 05 Jul 2019 at 3:31am
Sorted
I did take it all off
Not a waste of time in my opinion. At least that way I can watch the valves and know when I’m on tdc and correspond it to the fly wheel fire mark.
By taking the plug out and feeling the build up of pressure/air I can’t be sure on what stroke I’m at
Anyway it’s sorted now
Cheers guys


Posted By: Unit3
Date Posted: 05 Jul 2019 at 9:34am
Originally posted by DaveKamp DaveKamp wrote:

Leave the bonnet on, Dan-  finger over the plug hole takes but 20 seconds...  
Give it the finger test. It worked on the UC when I did the same thing. 


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2-8070FWA PS/8050PS/7080/7045PS/200/D15-II/2-WD45/WD/3-WC/UC/C


Posted By: CTuckerNWIL
Date Posted: 06 Jul 2019 at 9:57am
Originally posted by 2011dandd 2011dandd wrote:

Sorted
I did take it all off
Not a waste of time in my opinion. At least that way I can watch the valves and know when I’m on tdc and correspond it to the fly wheel fire mark.
By taking the plug out and feeling the build up of pressure/air I can’t be sure on what stroke I’m at
Anyway it’s sorted now
Cheers guys

 When your exhaust valve is open on the upstroke, there is no pressure building up like when the compression stroke comes up with both valves closed.


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http://www.ae-ta.com" rel="nofollow - http://www.ae-ta.com
Lena 1935 WC12xxx, Willie 1951 CA6xx Dad bought new, 1954WD45 PS, 1960 D17 NF


Posted By: 2011dandd
Date Posted: 06 Jul 2019 at 1:55pm
Of course that makes complete bloody sense.
Any way folks for the moment it’s running sound and starts up lovely


Posted By: Sugarmaker
Date Posted: 06 Jul 2019 at 6:14pm
2011dandd,
Awesome! Sometimes it nice to know how things work too. 
Regards,
 Chris


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D17 1958 (NFE), WD45 1954 (NFE), WD 1952 (NFE), WD 1950 (WFE), Allis F-40 forklift, Allis CA, Allis D14, Ford Jubilee, Many IH Cub Cadets, 32 Ford Dump, 65 Comet.



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