My 5020 died!!!
Printed From: Unofficial Allis
Category: Allis Chalmers
Forum Name: Farm Equipment
Forum Description: everything about Allis-Chalmers farm equipment
URL: https://www.allischalmers.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=162388
Printed Date: 21 Aug 2025 at 8:35pm
Software Version: Web Wiz Forums 11.10 - http://www.webwizforums.com
Topic: My 5020 died!!!
Posted By: Dr. Righteous
Subject: My 5020 died!!!
Date Posted: 01 Jul 2019 at 4:42pm
|
Man, talk about strange timing. The This little tractors never gave me a moments trouble but as soon as I decide to sell it, it dies. (just need a bigger tractor with a loader, nothing personal little guy!) I was preforming 1 last task before I was going to put the FOR SALE sign on it and park it next to the road. I was pulling my trailer out to ready it to pick up this tractor's replacement. (Kubota 3301). It had the tow bar on it and backed it up to the trailer to pull it out of the woods. As I was cranking on the trailer jack I noticed the tractor was idling kind funny, like it was going to stall. It has never done that since I owned it. I hooked the trailer up and jumped back on the tractor, and got about 10 feet before it died. It turned over, no start. Not a putt. I checked the fuel. Half a tank. Check the shut off valve and clean out bowl. All good, good fuel flow. Removed the filter, clean. Good flow to the filter. Went to the other side and removed the banjo fitting off the injection pump, good fuel flow to the pump. So my lines are not clogged. I backed off the line fittings to the injectors figuring somehow I had air in the system. Cranked, and cranked. Several attempts. Never a squirt from either line. The injection pump is getting fuel but just isn't working. For this little tractor it doesn't get any simpler. There is nothing electrical except the starter circuit. That obviously works. The shut off control isn't stuck, working fine. So if it is cranking, it should be pumping but it is not. I'm not a diesel expert by any means and I do not know what else to check except to guess the injection pump is bad. The engine is a 2cyl S126 Japanese diesel engine. Any suggestions? Are these pumps easily repairable or should I look for a rebuilt pump? Thanks
|
Replies:
Posted By: AC720Man
Date Posted: 01 Jul 2019 at 8:11pm
|
You’ve done the things I would have suggested. I would suspect the pump as well. I would find out where the timing needs to be before you pull the pump. I’m unfamiliar with the 5020 so I am guessing. It could also be a gear problem driving the pump. Hopefully Ed will read your post and chime in. He is a pump guru. ------------- 1968 B-208, 1976 720 (2 of them)Danco brush hog, single bottom plow,52" snow thrower, belly mower,rear tine tiller, rear blade, front blade, 57"sickle bar,1983 917 hydro, 1968 7hp sno-bee, 1968 190XTD |
Posted By: DiyDave
Date Posted: 01 Jul 2019 at 9:09pm
|
Pull an injector, and see if the pump is delivering fuel to the injectors.... ------------- Source: Babylon Bee. Sponsored by BRAWNDO, its got what you need! |
Posted By: Dr. Righteous
Date Posted: 01 Jul 2019 at 10:02pm
|
I removed the injector lines from the injectors. No fuel from either. |
Posted By: Dick L
Date Posted: 01 Jul 2019 at 10:03pm
| How is the oil level in the pump? Injection pumps as well as any type of a pump can and will go bad from time to time. |
Posted By: Dr. Righteous
Date Posted: 02 Jul 2019 at 8:26am
|
See, I wasn't aware the pump required oil. I just assumed the diesel fuel kept it lubed. I don't have any manuals for it so I wouldn't even know how to check it. I'll get some pix of the engine and pump, and post them here. |
Posted By: Leon n/c AR.
Date Posted: 02 Jul 2019 at 8:37am
| How long since fuel filter has been changed. Leon |
Posted By: chaskaduo
Date Posted: 02 Jul 2019 at 9:10am
|
I knew the out come halfway through the second sentence. I have that Murphy Syndrome too. For me the pump will be trash, cost more to fix it in the long run than I could get for it cause other stuff will be needed in the repair of it. Scrap prices will be at all time lows, nobody will need parts until I give it away because no more storage room, and the Gestapo Inspector is screaming codes left and right with fines. I feel for ya. ------------- 1938 B, 79 Dynamark 11/36 6spd, 95 Weed-Eater 16hp, 2010 Bolens 14hp |
Posted By: Dick L
Date Posted: 02 Jul 2019 at 10:15am
I am about to go out to rake hay with one and will refresh my mind on the exact location. You can look for a little pipe plug type thing on top to add oil. One toward the bottom to drain as I remember. My short term memory is shot! But then when I stop to think about it so is my short term memory! So don't hold your breath until I get back to this.  
|
Dr. Righteous wrote:Posted By: Dick L
Date Posted: 02 Jul 2019 at 11:51am
| It is a metric pipe plug with a hex head on the top and a allen socket type on the bottom. I think I probly used my 8 inch metric crescent wrench on the top plug. Just a guess. Whetever metric size close to 3/4" hex. |
Posted By: Dr. Righteous
Date Posted: 02 Jul 2019 at 12:43pm
|
I have to say I feel stupid now. I remember it wasn't long after I purchased this tractor I ran it out of fuel (no fuel gauge) and then had to purge the air from the pump and lines before it would run again. Ever since then I always kept an eye on the fuel level so that wouldn't happen again. I TOTALLY FORGOT that you have to turn that hex head screw in the side of the pump to purge the pump BEFORE you loosen the injector lines to purge any air in the lines. So I took my lunch hour and did just that. The tractor started up immediately and runs nice again. Now HOW it got air in the fuel system I have no idea. It had plenty of fuel and everything was clean and tight. The only theory I have was that I used my pressure washer on to make it look someone clean. The cut off fuel valve on the clean out bowl ended up about a quarter turned but NOT in the shut off position. Could be this starved the pump of fuel and caused the problem to start with. Anyway, thanks for the help guys. We are good to go. |
Posted By: chaskaduo
Date Posted: 02 Jul 2019 at 3:23pm
|
No Murphy, yeah!! ------------- 1938 B, 79 Dynamark 11/36 6spd, 95 Weed-Eater 16hp, 2010 Bolens 14hp |
Posted By: Dave(inMA)
Date Posted: 02 Jul 2019 at 4:22pm
|
It's nearly always better to be lucky than good! ------------- WC, CA, D14, WD45 |
Posted By: DiyDave
Date Posted: 02 Jul 2019 at 5:43pm
|
Still, check/ change The IP oil, after you made Dick go to all that trouble... ------------- Source: Babylon Bee. Sponsored by BRAWNDO, its got what you need! |
Posted By: Dr. Righteous
Date Posted: 03 Jul 2019 at 12:44pm
|
Good point; question is how do I check it and what kind of oil does it take? |
Posted By: Dick L
Date Posted: 03 Jul 2019 at 1:52pm
If I was you I would take the socket plug out on the bottom and drain it. Then fill it back up with non detergent 20 weight engine oil leaving enough room at the top for expansion. It would be nice if I took my own advise though as I just add oil to mine. |
Posted By: john(MI)
Date Posted: 03 Jul 2019 at 2:32pm
|
I believe there is another plug up from the bottom that is the, fill to for full, level. There is a fuel gage but yours probably broke at some point and didn't get replaced with the correct part. There is a rubber fuel line running up the left side of the fuel tank, it is supposed to be clear, and will indicate the level of fuel in the tank. Most times when it is replaced it is with black fuel line! ------------- D14, D17, 5020, 612H, CASE 446 |
Posted By: TramwayGuy
Date Posted: 03 Jul 2019 at 6:08pm
| Mine is still the clear tubing but has turned brown to the point it is next to useless. |
Posted By: Dr. Righteous
Date Posted: 05 Jul 2019 at 8:33am
Yeah, that I knew about but the clear plastic tube has long ago clouded up and you can't see through it. So the fuel gauge I rely on is removing the cap and peeking down the hole.
|