Construction and other equipment - HD5 needs some help

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HD5 needs some help

Printed From: Unofficial Allis
Category: Allis Chalmers
Forum Name: Construction and other equipment
Forum Description: everything else with orange (or yellow) paint
URL: https://www.allischalmers.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=162097
Printed Date: 19 May 2025 at 3:31pm
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Topic: HD5 needs some help

Posted By: heron
Subject: HD5 needs some help
Date Posted: 21 Jun 2019 at 11:58am

A few issues with this 55 HD5, wondered if you guys have been thru this.

First, Baker Blade, piston is leaking oil, my dad said the packing needs to be changed. Any ideas how to do this as I don't have any books on this. I have pictures below.

Next, how difficult is it to replace the U joint on the shaft right below the brake pedals? It's been wobbling too long and is causing a vibration now.

Finally, I believe Coke had said a few year back that I needed to weld something in for the gear shift but I don't have access to a welder. Can anything else be done to tighten up the shift lever as it's so hard to get it to index into gear, looks like that Pin in the linkage must be worn...? On a side note is there a special type of hydraulic oil I should be running in this machine? I was told recently by a 75 yo mechanic who wrenched on these for years to run semi fluid 00 in the final drives as they leak but I forgot to ask him about the hydraulic.

Thanks for any help!

Replies:

Posted By: gemdozer
Date Posted: 21 Jun 2019 at 6:52pm

You talk about piston leaking you have to removed the the bolts on head cylinder and pull the head and you should see the packing seal easy to change and about the u-joint you need to removed the 2 rear u-bolt and push the drive shaft in front to clear the rear yoke and pull out the drive for change the joint and about the shifter lever removed the bolts from guide shift lever and the 2 bolt from the housing shift lever and pull out the shaft pivot assambly for checking the trouble and oil hydrolic is 32 or 46 oil and transmission and final drive 80/90 oil

Posted By: Ray54
Date Posted: 22 Jun 2019 at 12:36pm

Hydraulic cylinders are not hard to work on in general, Wink

but so many different ways they made them so very hard to give help if you have not been in the one you are working on. Any oil that is clean should be Ok. So if your not into puzzles may need to take it to a hydraulic repair shop. They should be able to match up packing.

The shifter has 2 pins that hold the shifter lever. They are 5/8 bolts on the side of the tower. They have the ends cut down to be pins. So they can be made from a bolt.The other parts wear to, but new pins can help a lot.

The universal joints are common so you should be able to find you tube on the tricks if you need help getting started on that.

Posted By: Coke-in-MN
Date Posted: 23 Jun 2019 at 5:37pm

Pull the 2 bolts on side of shift tower - then lift lever up and out - (shift to neutral before pulling) You will find a yoke on lever with a round bushing and a pin through it - the bushing wears as does the pin - easy to make new bushing and increase size of pin if holes in yoke are worn - I increased pin size - then ground 2 flat spots in pin so bolts that go into bushings would hold it secure . I made up new bolts and turned ends to index into bushing deep enough to contact pin - then I shimmed bolts at housing to keep pin in place and have right tension on pin and yoke .
On the end of the yoke is the ball end that fits into shifting rails - if it is worn it needs to be built up so it doesn't slide between shifting rails (both in width and to make rounded end)

If and when you pull the shift yoke from tower it will all make sense of how it all works . depending if you have loader or dozer how the lever is attached to the yoke differs some

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Faith isn't a jump in the dark. It is a walk in the light. Faith is not guessing; it is knowing something.
"Challenges are what make life interesting; overcoming them is what makes life meaningful."

Posted By: Coke-in-MN
Date Posted: 23 Jun 2019 at 5:44pm

Hydraulic oil can be almost any oil 10/30 motor oil, AW hyd oil medium weight, I have used ATF at one time when I got 2 55 gal drums for free.

Packing glands take V ring packings , other style rod seal may use o ring plain or a o ring with a backing ring - either style will also have a wiper seal or exclusion seal - these go in opposite of how you think a normal oils seal would operate .
Transmission should be a 1000 SSU or so oil - Can use a EP gear lube but some say bushings in older machines may suffer from it . Rear reduction I have been using 120 gear lube . Depending if you have drilled axles - the outboard bearing on the truck frame needs to be checked to make sure it is getting lube - those bearings are hard to find and replacing axles gets expensive

U-joints will be the easiest - just remove floor pan and you have access , your wobble can be from worn yoke at transmission end also besides joints . The shaft it fits onto has a bearing in the clutch housing also and the full clutch release rides on a brass bushing - (why to engage clutch with tractor in neutral when setting with engine running to not wear brass - be sure to grease this part of clutch also)

Posted By: AC Mel
Date Posted: 23 Jun 2019 at 11:33pm

Ok...Check out this old post from 6 years ago....has some pictures that might be helpful..

https://www.allischalmers.com/forum/55-hd5-transmission-question_topic69356.html" rel="nofollow - https://www.allischalmers.com/forum/55-hd5-transmission-question_topic69356.html

Posted By: heron
Date Posted: 24 Jun 2019 at 12:53pm

Thanks for the help! I'll have to get into it with the shifter to really understand. I think the wobble is priority as it seems to cause the entire machine to vibrate. Hope it's just the UJoint. If I can get that safe my next goal would be the shifter and then piston packing.

Has anyone ever seen that AJ Cash Valve. Never leaked until I changed the hydraulic fluid when I got the machine in 2012 and I never remember it leaking for the last 50 years. This was a very late 55 machine with a Baker blade setup. Not seen many with the same setup . Coke gave me insight years ago with the shifter but I simply didn't have the time to mess with it and really still don't but I'm paranoid and the only thing I'm doing with it is starting it and running it around the woods to keep it up. Really don't need it for anything other than it's sentimental.

Posted By: Coke-in-MN
Date Posted: 24 Jun 2019 at 2:21pm

A view of the end of the cylinder and the gland on the cylinder would help .
On tractomotive loader they used a V ring packing and a packing gland to tension packing - it is a brass gland held in place with 2, 1/2" bolts - this packing can be tightened down and also a ring can be added easily by splitting a packing ring at a bias angle and installing without removing rod from cylinder .

Posted By: Ian Beale
Date Posted: 24 Jun 2019 at 4:54pm

Not a HD5 but.

We have a FA 10 and one of the U-joints needed replacing. Our supplier's comment was

"Just as well you found that. If they let go they usually take out the front cover of the transmission".

I guess this might apply to all of those Fiat series

Posted By: heron
Date Posted: 26 Jun 2019 at 1:29pm

I'll snap a pic of it as soon as I can. It does have two bolts that take a 3/4 box and you can tighten them down. That's basically what my dad did for the last 50 years but when you get them to where it does not leak it creates too much drag on the piston causing the blade to hang up on one side. There is also a long scratch in that particular piston that has been there forever which probably has caused the leak. It's not too deep but I always thought it should have been replaced decades ago.

Posted By: heron
Date Posted: 26 Jun 2019 at 1:30pm

Thanks for the warning. Not sure what it would do but the vibration is enough for me to get it done. It's just been there so long it seems normal.

Posted By: heron
Date Posted: 26 Jun 2019 at 1:36pm

Is there a better hydraulic oil that will not hurt anything but maybe thicken up things a bit and cut down on the leaking valve? Would it be the medium or aw32/64?

Has anyone ever seen that "cash valve" on other machines. I don't think I've ever seen another...?

Also, the mechanic my dad worked with in the 70's told me to run the semi fluid "00" lithium base in the final drives because of the leaking. He said that's what they always did back in the day with the AC's...?

Posted By: Mactractor
Date Posted: 26 Jun 2019 at 3:40pm

Your final drive oil has to be a viscosity that allows it to carried up the bull gear, onto the intermediate gear, then onto the pinion gear, and run along the shafts that carry those gears to their bearings. It also has to run through the sprocket shaft channel to the outboard bearing, and seep through the wick to the diagonal brace pivot pin and bushing. Straight 50 weight, 90EP, and 85W140EP are oils I know that work there. I would say you would be asking for component failure using the 00 (truck wheel grease).

Posted By: heron
Date Posted: 26 Jun 2019 at 4:51pm

Got it, I would agree if it has to carry that far the 00 semi fluid wouldn't do that. Not sure why that is all they used..guess they liked repairing those old ACs back then. My grandfathers business had all AC's from 5's to 41's in the 70's. Not sure why the old time mechanic told me that.

Posted By: Mactractor
Date Posted: 27 Jun 2019 at 12:01am

When seals begin to leak, rather than attend to the seal, some guys chose heavier lube to slow the leak and keep running the machine until the opportunity to do the repair came. In gear cases where components were not much above lube level, that was usually fine, but with vertically stacked final drives and transfer cases, that lube in the bottom of the housing has to get to the bearings at the top.

Posted By: dadsdozerhd5b
Date Posted: 27 Jun 2019 at 10:51am

I have the same machine with the same blade. As far as the valve goes, it is easy to fix. First mark the round bushing that the blade control bolts to in regards to the shaft. If you get the orientation backwards the pin may not go back in. The valve has a detent to keep it centered and keep it in float. That makes it a litttle hard to remove the pin, i do not take out the detent as it holds the spool of the valve in place when you disassemlbe it. You can remove if you want iti is the big bolt on the side, it has a spring under it. Remove the pin and round bushing on top. Next remove the square cap on top next to the control. Under it there will be a large threaded rod with a screwdriver slot in it. Remove this but be sure to count the total number of rotations it takes to take it all the way out. Mine was 18. It will be hard at first as it is the releif valve and it has a spring under it. It will get easy and the spring will not jump out. Next remove the six bolts holding the cover on and remove the cover. Therre will either be a seal or oring that seals the shaft. Replace it. Make a gasket with good gasket paper and a ball peen hammer. The original gasket is thin, use as thin of paper as possible as the faces of the valve and cover are machined flat and dont need alot of gasket paper. Clen the shaft. Reassemble in reverse order setting the relief valve back to original. The pin can be a bugger to reinstall, now you can rmove the detent on the side to make it easier. Be sure not to turn the shaft around as it will not work correctly. The seal or oring area does not see full system pressure as this is on the return side of the valve. Dont be scared to tackle this, once you see how it comes apart it is easy to repair. Baker blade manuals are available online. When i get home this weeekend i will see if i can find a pic.

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HD5B, HD5G, (2) FARMALL A's, CUB. DO IT RIGHT THE FIRST TIME, IGNORE THE LAUGHTER. FLANNEL IS ALWAYS IN STYLE.

Posted By: heron
Date Posted: 10 Jul 2019 at 1:56pm

Great info on that valve. I'll tackle that soon. Been too hot and humid where I am to work on it but as soon as it cools off a bit I'd like to get that valve done, Ujoints and piston packing. The only thing this machine needs to be perfect are those things, final drive seals and the left side track adjuster is frozen. If I only still had access to my grandfathers workshop with all the right tools, especially a big torch.