D17 transferring oil to transmission
Printed From: Unofficial Allis
Category: Allis Chalmers
Forum Name: Farm Equipment
Forum Description: everything about Allis-Chalmers farm equipment
URL: https://www.allischalmers.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=161714
Printed Date: 01 Apr 2026 at 7:47am
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Topic: D17 transferring oil to transmission
Posted By: wekracer
Subject: D17 transferring oil to transmission
Date Posted: 08 Jun 2019 at 6:29am
| I know this has been discussed many time and I apologize for bringing it up again. My brother in law bought a series 4 for hay work. He called me yesterday and said he went to check the oil and the hydraulic was way low and the transmission was over full and he had just checked them the day before when he started mowing hay. I know it must be a seal between the two but the question is does it hurt anything to keep the hydraulic full and run it with the transmission over full once the two equalize. Thanks again for your help |
Replies:
Posted By: DrAllis
Date Posted: 08 Jun 2019 at 6:45am
| Remove the hydraulic dipstick. Pull out the cotter pin from it and throw away the cotter pin and the 3/8" ball that will fall out. Use brake kleen and a rubber tip blow nozzle and blow up thru the tube (while blocking the cotter pin holes with your fingers. And make sure the top of the dipstick isn't plugged blocking air so the system can BREATHE. Sometimes I have to remove the top cover (brazed in place) and dig out the rust and crap inside that has things solidly blocked. Use the same oil in both compartments and nurse it along but if you have a plugged breather it will aggravate this problem. |
Posted By: AllisFreak MN
Date Posted: 08 Jun 2019 at 6:49am
|
Hey Doc, what is the purpose of the 3/8 ball? ------------- '49 A-C WD, '51 A-C WD, '63 A-C D17 Series III, 1968 A-C One-Seventy, '82 A-C 6060, '75 A-C 7040, A-C #3 sickle mower, 2 A-C 701 wagons, '78 Gleaner M2 |
Posted By: DrAllis
Date Posted: 08 Jun 2019 at 6:54am
| Never been able to figure that out. I have a drawer full of them. Never had any issues with the ball removed....not one. All the D-series and hundred series I have ever touched has this done to them. |
Posted By: wekracer
Date Posted: 08 Jun 2019 at 7:02am
| Thanks for the quick response Dr. well look into the breather. |
Posted By: wekracer
Date Posted: 08 Jun 2019 at 7:03am
| Am I correct that it requires splitting it to replace those seals. |
Posted By: DrAllis
Date Posted: 08 Jun 2019 at 7:23am
| Yup. DO THE BREATHER FIRST AND TRY IT FOR A FEW DAYS !!! And be sure to park it on the level in the same spot and check every morning with COLD oil. |
Posted By: DaveKamp
Date Posted: 08 Jun 2019 at 10:32am
|
Beneath the ball, is probably a simple seal surface that, when the machine is not working, provides a little bit of 'cap off' for the system, but when it's running, acts as a valve to allow pressure inside the case to have some easy place to go. Remember that as oil warms, it expands. There needs to be enough air volume in a reservoir (or in this case, a gearbox) for that fluid to expand WITHOUT causing the air pressure to rise so high that it blows past a seal. Ever have an axle seal on a truck start leaking? Before you go ripping apart an axle, find the axle housing BREATHER... Sometimes it's mounted to the top of the diff, or screwed into an axle tube, often it's connected to a hose that's clamped up high to the frame. If that breather is plugged up, internal pressure will accumulate, and blow gear lube past the seal, saturating your brake shoes. If 'ya don't have proper ventilation, you'll put yerself through hell changing seals, only to have the NEW ones leak TOO... Oh, and 'yknow why dipsticks say DO NOT OVERFILL? Yeah, had a clown at a maintenance facility who took pride in getting 'extra oil' in locomotive drive gearboxes... thinking that more was a good thing. Those gearboxes were sealed, and had calculated expansion volume, where internal pressure helped IMPROVE the lip seal force... and as a result of this bozo's inability to read and follow instructions, every damned gearbox in that shop's fleet destroyed seals and leaked gear lube everywhere... till we found that guy... ------------- Ten Amendments, Ten Commandments, and one Golden Rule solve most every problem. Citrus hand-cleaner with Pumice does the rest. |
Posted By: chaskaduo
Date Posted: 08 Jun 2019 at 11:49am
Dave, was he hiding in the bathroom reading Mechanics Illustrated?  ------------- 1938 B, 79 Dynamark 11/36 6spd, 95 Weed-Eater 16hp, 2010 Bolens 14hp |
Posted By: DaveKamp
Date Posted: 09 Jun 2019 at 3:53am
 Not lately, Elliot, but I was in bed injured for better part of a year when I was 14, so I had lots of time to read... if I could'a gotten up to go there and hide, I would have!!!------------- Ten Amendments, Ten Commandments, and one Golden Rule solve most every problem. Citrus hand-cleaner with Pumice does the rest. |
Posted By: dt1050
Date Posted: 10 Jun 2019 at 5:23am
yep, the fella that owned my 1992 f350 sold it cheap because it kept blowing rear axle seals. replaced the rubber vent hose and axle seals 3 years ago and no leaks.....gotta have some place for the pressure to vent. ------------- Just cause it's orange don't make it a tractor, there's only one..Allis Chalmers |
DaveKamp wrote: