AC D17 Power Director Popping Out of High
Printed From: Unofficial Allis
Category: Allis Chalmers
Forum Name: Farm Equipment
Forum Description: everything about Allis-Chalmers farm equipment
URL: https://www.allischalmers.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=161669
Printed Date: 27 Jul 2025 at 11:30am
Software Version: Web Wiz Forums 11.10 - http://www.webwizforums.com
Topic: AC D17 Power Director Popping Out of High
Posted By: Gary Va
Subject: AC D17 Power Director Popping Out of High
Date Posted: 06 Jun 2019 at 5:44pm
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I have a great running and very reliable 1963 AC D17 Series III gas tractor and recently it will occasionally pop out of the high range on the power director lever. The low range stays in fine and it will sometime holds in the high range but will sometimes pop-out and when I re-engage it pops right back out. It does not seem to matter whether it is under load or not, has happened both ways but not all of the time. Does this sound like a shim adjustment going into the power director side panel or more of a roller or power directo clutch replacement issue that means breaking the D17 apart? Any insight or suggestions on my high range power director problem would be appreciated. Also, the fluid I utilize in the power director is Hy-trans, hope that is not a problem.
Thank, Gary |
Replies:
Posted By: DennisA (IL)
Date Posted: 06 Jun 2019 at 6:19pm
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The rollers have worn a grove in the pre-load plate. Will need to remove to fix. Click on link below https://youtu.be/ebbg1YK2I5A" rel="nofollow - Power Director ------------- Thanks & God Bless Dennis |
Posted By: Gary Va
Date Posted: 06 Jun 2019 at 6:50pm
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Dennis, Thanks for the Power Director Rebuild video on Youtube, I will definitely have to find a good AC mechanic to perform this power adjuster rebuild as those pre-load plates on the high side must be worn to allow the rollers to fall into neutral. Thanks Dennis
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Posted By: DSeries4
Date Posted: 06 Jun 2019 at 9:18pm
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Before tearing the tractor apart, take a few washers out of bolt that the hand clutch rests on when you have it in high range. ------------- '49 G, '54 WD45, '55 CA, '56 WD45D, '57 WD45, '58 D14, '59 D14, '60 D14, '61 D15D, '66 D15II, '66 D21II, '67 D17IV, '67 D17IVD, '67 190XTD, '73 620, '76 185, '77 175, '84 8030, '85 6080 |
Posted By: Lon(MN)
Date Posted: 07 Jun 2019 at 7:55am
| I have gone through the shim adjust with no luck. Ended up with the roller plate replacement. While I had it apart I put in a new foot clutch pedal shaft and O-ring for the PTO lever. |
Posted By: Gary Burnett
Date Posted: 07 Jun 2019 at 9:24am
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My D19 started jumping out of high range I took the the bolt and all the washers out that worked for another 15 years.Then it started jumping out again I cut a notch on the guide so it was locked in high range been that way for about 10 years doesn't slip in high range just have to push the button down to take it out of high.Tractor isn't worth tearing down and replacing everything but as long as it works I'll keep using it.
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Posted By: Gary Va
Date Posted: 07 Jun 2019 at 11:39am
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Gary, Thanks and what a great suggestion that I will try before tearing the D17 apart. With the new notch that you put in the plate to lock in the lever, does it always stay in high range? It definitely is worth trying as my low side stays in just fine. Thanks for the insight Gary! Gary
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Posted By: DennisA (IL)
Date Posted: 07 Jun 2019 at 12:06pm
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Just to let you know that more damage could be done by forcing the clutch to stay engaged. My uncle did this to the D-17. It lasted 4yrs. and the hand lever wouldn’t work for high or low. What happened is the clutch was trying to push out of high in to neutral, but since the lever was locked in place it wore out the brass shifting collar. All that this did was prolong the correct fix for the issue and add about $500 to the repair. That collar is over $400.00. ------------- Thanks & God Bless Dennis |
Posted By: bradley6874
Date Posted: 07 Jun 2019 at 1:31pm
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If taking a washer or two out gets the snap back your good if Allis engineers put the adjustment there it’s there for a reason holding it in place will cause more wear but only if it doesn’t snap Me I would adjust the shims first more than likely that needs to be done anyway from time then adjust the stop and see what you got ------------- You can wash the dirt off the body but you can’t wash the farmer out of the heart and soul |
Posted By: Gary Va
Date Posted: 07 Jun 2019 at 2:17pm
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Dennis, Thanks and this is why the AC Forum works so well, we get the benefit of a lot of different experiences, perspectives and practical insight into a problem. Thanks for your time and insight and what you describe that could happen by forcing the lever in place does makes sense! Thanks, Gary
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Posted By: ACinSC
Date Posted: 07 Jun 2019 at 4:34pm
| Interesting post . It's a stretch to push my D 15 power director in high . Wondered how someone shorter than my 6' self managed . Then I noticed that the stop bolt was gone . Now I know why . Thanks !! |
Posted By: DennisA (IL)
Date Posted: 07 Jun 2019 at 5:33pm
No problem, I didn't mean to suggest that you rebuild the clutch. I just wanted you to know why it's jumping out of high range. In the video I point out the cause. Most guys understand better by seeing than by reading. I have found that I look at things a little differently than others. If any of my tractors have any issues I fix them. I don't look at how difficult it is, how long it will take or how much it will cost. If it's broke it gets fix. In your situation I would split the tractor in replace the pre-load plate, that's just me. Prices keep going up and parts keep getting harder to find. So I fix now why parts are still available. A case in point is the fuel gauge for the D-17. My uncle wanted me to replace the gauge. He found out that it cost $65.00. Well that's was just way to much for him. He said forget get it. About 4 years went by and he told me to get the gauge. He got tired of running out of gas in the field. Well now the same gauge cost $145.00. So the price over doubled and he lost 4 years of use. I always tell him if you can't afford to fix and maintain your equipment then you should just get rid of it because you can't afford to own it. I wish you well! ------------- Thanks & God Bless Dennis |
Gary Va wrote:Posted By: FREEDGUY
Date Posted: 07 Jun 2019 at 5:55pm
reminds me of when we molboard plowed with a S/2 D 17. Start the furrow in 2 LO,let the RPM's feather out and SNAP it fast into Hi. When cold, it would pop out of Hi so when snapped into high, we would hold our right foot on the "stick" for a round or 2 until the tranny got warmed up. After a round or 2, didn't need to hold the "stick". Hindsight it should have had some attention, but it worked for 5 years 
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Posted By: Gary Burnett
Date Posted: 07 Jun 2019 at 6:27pm
For me it never makes sense to put more in a repair on any machine that will cost 2X what I can buy a replacement machine in working condition.I stick with the same models of tractors and equipment when one gets to the point of needing costly repairs I start using its backup and use the tractor that needs repairs for parts.Pretty soon I have about all the parts I'll need plus also sell some to recoup original investment too. Having my own parts supply saves me a lot of money over time plus its nice to have them on hand.I ain't married to any of these machines(LOL)
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Posted By: DrAllis
Date Posted: 07 Jun 2019 at 8:36pm
| If the ramps/rollers are worn, going thru the shimming procedure will usually make the cold oil jump-out problem worse. Suit yourself. |
Posted By: tbran
Date Posted: 07 Jun 2019 at 9:34pm
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The stop bolt on the high side is there to prevent a 300 pound super farmer from leaning forward and with all that weight popping an ear off the shifter. It is not needed for low range. The bolt is shim adjusted to allow for wear and hit the stop at the perfect position. An old hand once showed us a trick at service school - he replaced the rollers for the wear in the bearing surface on each side of the roller in the middle. He had a high speed drimmel and would put about a one or two degree angle on the pressure plate and work it back into the groove the roller makes. When the roller goes over the edge it now rolls down and will not pop out. He also deepened the grooves one finds are there just a tad to allow the levers to go just a few thousands more. I did this to our D17 at about 5000 hours and it now has about 10000. If you are not willing to have to do it again if this does not get done properly = pop for the new parts. Also the neutral adjustment is equally important - the clutch should be put in the absolute center - neutral position. When using the tractor for long times on the pto as in a grain auger- always leave it snapped in range = trans in neutral . ------------- When told "it's not the money,it's the principle", remember, it's always the money.. |
Posted By: Gary Va
Date Posted: 08 Jun 2019 at 7:43am
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Thanks for all of the input and unfortunately for my wallet it is time to break it apart and have the power director serviced for all worn parts. Found an AC mechanic in Hartfield VA that is going to help on this project. Like this old '63 D17 way too much to not get it corrected! Thanks again, Gary
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Posted By: DaveKamp
Date Posted: 08 Jun 2019 at 10:24am
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It's one of those things that is a bit painful-in-the-hind-pocket to do, but once it's done, it lasts a LONG time. She was built in '63, that's 56 years... it may very well be that it's never been serviced. Let's say it costs you $500 in parts... that's $8.92/year... While I understand Gary's point (buying a replacement machine), the fallacy, is that the replacement machine will have any more substantial service life, or not have other issues that would be eliminated by a simple investment of effort into the current machine. Many people fall into that trap. Tearing down and giving a proper rebuild to a good machine is ALWAYS a good investment, when the machine serves your purpose well. When I have to pull apart some machine, I don't undertake a great dismantling without attending to everything else that's accessible in that operation... because it's not the cost of the parts which constitutes the greatest investment- it's the time and effort to GET IN THERE, and the lack of availability amidst down-time. If you're splitting a tractor to rehab the power director, give it a clutch, transmission bearings, etc., so that when you button it back up, you KNOW that the other parts will NOT be demanding that you will split it again in the future. A man always sleeps better knowing that he won't have to repeat the same job twice. ------------- Ten Amendments, Ten Commandments, and one Golden Rule solve most every problem. Citrus hand-cleaner with Pumice does the rest. |
Posted By: DougG
Date Posted: 08 Jun 2019 at 1:59pm
| Had a 170 do this for years ,, a simple put your foot on it holds it in ,, just like a gear jumping One Hundred series factory flaw about jumping out of gear,, a lot of labor hours to get to the real problem |
Posted By: Walter(MO)
Date Posted: 08 Jun 2019 at 5:29pm
| A few years ago my 175 would jump out of Hi range. The problem with my was the tapered set bolt that holds the lever to the shaft was not tight in the tapered hole and the clutch was not fully engaging. Turned the jam nut loose and tighten set bolt and than tighten jam nut , cured the problem. Probably a rare instance but is worth checking since I had this problem on my 175. |
Posted By: Gary Va
Date Posted: 08 Jun 2019 at 5:46pm
| Walter, thanks and I will check out the connection of the lever to the shaft as you suggested. Thanks, Gary |
Posted By: Gary Burnett
Date Posted: 09 Jun 2019 at 5:31am
While everyone is certainly free to spend their money anyway they want I can say for sure its not ALWAYS a good thing to go in and spend a bunch of money on a tractor. I've bought a good many tractor 'projects' over the years.Some were unfinished because of lack of interest,some because the owners got tired of throwing money at it. Not everyone has the extra cash lying around when a 1K$ job turns into a 5K$ job usually they spend a lot then have to sell for pennies on the Dollar$.Even if finished many times people regret spending a huge sum of money on a common tractor that can be bought easily for half or a quarter of what they spent.Sink 5K$ in a transmission/rear rebuild, put a few hours on it and then the engine blows on the 50 year old tractor. Its then more $$$$$ or cut the loses and sell.
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