large rivet removal question.
Printed From: Unofficial Allis
Category: Other Topics
Forum Name: Shops, Barns, Varmints, and Trucks
Forum Description: anything you want to talk about except politics
URL: https://www.allischalmers.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=161602
Printed Date: 01 Jun 2024 at 6:39am
Software Version: Web Wiz Forums 11.10 - http://www.webwizforums.com
Topic: large rivet removal question.
Posted By: CAL(KS)
Subject: large rivet removal question.
Date Posted: 04 Jun 2019 at 12:13pm
Ok guys i have a metallurgy question regarding some rivets i need to remove. I am salvaging some parts from a 99-04 ford truck to install on my own, specificallly, the rear overload springs as mine does not have them. The front overload stop bracket (rear spring) is riveted to the frame unlike the rear bracket which is bolted. I dont want to use a torch for 2 reasons, i dont want to destroy the bracket and its located right next to the fuel tank. Would i be able to drill the heads on these and then remove with a punch or will they be too hard and eat drillbits? looks like only other option is some kind of cutting disk on a grinder. the parts truck is about 30 minutes away and i dont want to have to go back, already been there once. here is what i need to remove. trying to figure out a simple and clean way to do this ------------- Me -C,U,UC,WC,WD45,190XT,TL-12,145T,HD6G,HD16,HD20 Dad- WD, D17D, D19D, RT100A, 7020, 7080,7580, 2-8550's, 2-S77, HD15 |
Replies:
Posted By: thendrix
Date Posted: 04 Jun 2019 at 12:19pm
|
Should be able to drill the center out and hit it with a punch. That's the best way I've found to take out rivets. And a word to the wise, there's no need to run your drill as fast as possible. That will burn the bit faster than hard metal will. Go about half speed and let it cut. Little WD40 or any oil will help a lot. If your chips are blue and your drill is squeling, slow down your speed. That's a sign of to many rpm ------------- "Farming is a business that makes a Las Vegas craps table look like a regular paycheck" Ronald Reagan |
Posted By: plummerscarin
Date Posted: 04 Jun 2019 at 12:30pm
| I have used a cutting disc on an angle grinder and cut an X across the rivet head then use a chisel to cut off the top and punch it out.. That is of course you have the room . Sparks may also be an issue if near the gas tank. Be careful, HTH |
Posted By: Amos
Date Posted: 04 Jun 2019 at 12:50pm
| A sharp cold chisel. We use them to cut rivets on airplanes up to semi trucks here. You won't believe how easy they cut. |
Posted By: CAL(KS)
Date Posted: 04 Jun 2019 at 12:53pm
------------- Me -C,U,UC,WC,WD45,190XT,TL-12,145T,HD6G,HD16,HD20 Dad- WD, D17D, D19D, RT100A, 7020, 7080,7580, 2-8550's, 2-S77, HD15 |
Amos wrote:Posted By: Tbone95
Date Posted: 04 Jun 2019 at 1:03pm
| Cal, think about it this way. As a general rule, hardness is metallurgically "resistance to deformation". Since a rivet works by deforming, it "has" to be relatively soft. Therefore, will drill, cut with chisel, etc. Just for any future projects.... |
Posted By: CAL(KS)
Date Posted: 04 Jun 2019 at 1:08pm
------------- Me -C,U,UC,WC,WD45,190XT,TL-12,145T,HD6G,HD16,HD20 Dad- WD, D17D, D19D, RT100A, 7020, 7080,7580, 2-8550's, 2-S77, HD15 |
Posted By: Tbone95
Date Posted: 04 Jun 2019 at 1:14pm
|
Hot only makes it hard if a) hot enough; b) cooled very rapidly; and c) has adequate carbon content to make it hard, and harder than your drill bit. I'd think those old skyscraper rivets are still plenty mild, but I could be wrong, wouldn't be the first time. Meant as a general rule, I guess I don't know the specifics of that application either, so I guess I probably should just STFU.
|
Posted By: CAL(KS)
Date Posted: 04 Jun 2019 at 1:18pm
------------- Me -C,U,UC,WC,WD45,190XT,TL-12,145T,HD6G,HD16,HD20 Dad- WD, D17D, D19D, RT100A, 7020, 7080,7580, 2-8550's, 2-S77, HD15 |
Posted By: Tbone95
Date Posted: 04 Jun 2019 at 1:22pm
I know what you mean. I've smoked a bit or 2 in my day, as well as mangled more than one chisel!  Better take an assortment of tools. Do you have a center drill bit? Those little buggers are usually really hard, and can make you a nice starter hole. However you go, good luck.
|
Posted By: CAL(KS)
Date Posted: 04 Jun 2019 at 1:32pm
|
if you mean a center drill like for a mill machine, no but my plan was to drill a pilot hole then finish with 3/8 or so. should remove enough material to punch through or chisel the head off ------------- Me -C,U,UC,WC,WD45,190XT,TL-12,145T,HD6G,HD16,HD20 Dad- WD, D17D, D19D, RT100A, 7020, 7080,7580, 2-8550's, 2-S77, HD15 |
Posted By: john(MI)
Date Posted: 04 Jun 2019 at 3:06pm
|
A Dremel type tool might be a better source of drilling/cutting. Have you priced them? Might be an easier option! ------------- D14, D17, 5020, 612H, CASE 446 |
Posted By: jaybmiller
Date Posted: 04 Jun 2019 at 3:18pm
|
I grind them flush with the piece, then whack with a good drift. Lot easier on my hands and no bandaids required ! If you grind down JUST to the surface of the piece, it's easy to lightly tap a drift to 'punch' the rivet out. ------------- 3 D-14s,A-C forklift, B-112 Kubota BX23S lil' TOOT( The Other Orange Tractor) Never burn your bridges, unless you can walk on water |
Posted By: Thad in AR.
Date Posted: 04 Jun 2019 at 5:40pm
| If you have an air source an air chisel would be my first pick. |
Posted By: steve(ill)
Date Posted: 04 Jun 2019 at 6:10pm
|
use the pilot drill as you said, then use your 3/8 drill to get thru the head.. use the cold chisel to break off the "head" of the rivet... Some will poke thru after that, some will be too STIFF... If they don't poke out, drive the cold chisel between the frame and bracket and PRY the bracket off the rivets.......... Personally I use a grinder, but not around a gas tank. ------------- Like them all, but love the "B"s. |
Posted By: 200Tom1
Date Posted: 04 Jun 2019 at 6:42pm
| Do you have compressed air close? We used a large air hammer with a sharp chisel in it. It makes very short work of them. |
Posted By: DiyDave
Date Posted: 04 Jun 2019 at 8:23pm
Step drill bit (unibit) drills its own pilot(s). As others have said, pretty soft stuff. also, use cutting oil, once you have the bit started. Normally a grinder or cutting disc is way faster, but it don't look like you got much room, there... ------------- Source: Babylon Bee. Sponsored by BRAWNDO, its got what you need! |
Posted By: shameless dude
Date Posted: 04 Jun 2019 at 11:18pm
| remove the gas tank and grind away! |
Posted By: PaulB
Date Posted: 05 Jun 2019 at 7:30am
|
Might be better to get a REAL truck that is capable of doing the job you are wanting to do. Half tons are never built to do much more that get a keg of beer or a few bags of feed. Just look at the data plate in the door to see what your truck is designed for, any more than that is puttin yourself an everyone around you on the road at serious risk. Every day I see overloaded and overworked wanabe trucks doing a job it is truely not up to. DOT cops are getting wise to bumper dragging unsafe landscapers and Harryhomeowners on the nations highways. They are finding it to be an easy revenue stream. All they have to do is look at the weight rating of the tires or the trucks data plate and the big fines begin. I had a neighbor recently get a $2500 overload ticket for crossing a 6000 pound bridge with one scoop of mulch in the bed. Then another $1000 for overloading the rear tires. You are putting everyone’s safety at risk when you do as you please and ignore a winpy daddy’s pretty little trucks limitations. ------------- If it was fun to pull in LOW gear, I could have a John Deere. If you can't make it GO... make it SHINY |
Posted By: CAL(KS)
Date Posted: 05 Jun 2019 at 7:47am
And thanks for the tips guys. you were correct the rivets were soft. Went last night to retrieve the brackets and rear sway bar. Drilled a pilot hole then bumped to 3/8 the depth of the rivet head, then used a big chisel and 2# hammer to remove. Popped em right off. ------------- Me -C,U,UC,WC,WD45,190XT,TL-12,145T,HD6G,HD16,HD20 Dad- WD, D17D, D19D, RT100A, 7020, 7080,7580, 2-8550's, 2-S77, HD15 |
Posted By: Tbone95
Date Posted: 05 Jun 2019 at 8:03am
| Glad the job went well for you Cal. |
Posted By: Coke-in-MN
Date Posted: 05 Jun 2019 at 7:19pm
|
Them hot rivets used on ships and buildings were hot and then peened so when they cooled they shrunk - thus causing them to be in tension - cold formed rivits not so much like those you removed or the ones used on sickel bars - when peened cold . ------------- Faith isn't a jump in the dark. It is a walk in the light. Faith is not guessing; it is knowing something. "Challenges are what make life interesting; overcoming them is what makes life meaningful." |