Farm Equipment - WD exhaust leak

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WD exhaust leak

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Category: Allis Chalmers
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URL: https://www.allischalmers.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=159536
Printed Date: 15 Jun 2025 at 8:24pm
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Topic: WD exhaust leak

Posted By: 1947WC
Subject: WD exhaust leak
Date Posted: 31 Mar 2019 at 10:02pm

I put in new gaskets still have a leak on the 1 exhaust port ? Can I add more gaskets to that one port?

Replies:

Posted By: garden_guy
Date Posted: 31 Mar 2019 at 11:20pm

Did that exhaust port have excessive wear or a groove burned in it from exhaust gas? Or does it just not to be sealed well for some reason?

Posted By: Stan IL&TN
Date Posted: 01 Apr 2019 at 2:27am

If the manifold is eroded you will have to have it machined or replaced most likely. Additional gaskets would be a coin toss but might be worth a try and is cheaper than the other options.

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1957 WD45 dad's first AC

1968 one-seventy

1956 F40 Ferguson

Posted By: Brian G. NY
Date Posted: 01 Apr 2019 at 8:32am

The best solution is to have the manifold ground true on a surface grinder.

A quick fix for my WD was to fill all the eroded spots with a high quality refractory cement

and assemble before it drys.

Worked well for me.

BTW, one of the ports in the head was also a little eroded and I did the same to it.

Posted By: Allis dave
Date Posted: 01 Apr 2019 at 9:06am

You will have to retorque the manifold 3-4 times until it's finally sets in. Try that first.

Otherwise, the other's have given good advice.

Posted By: CTuckerNWIL
Date Posted: 01 Apr 2019 at 10:19am

My 45 had a leak when I got it. I ignored it for some time, then while doing some other work, decided to mill the 2 year old manifold to get a good seal. Once I had the manifold off, I could see without even using a straight edge, that the head was eroded away on both ends. Pulled the head, milled it along with the manifold and had no problem getting it to seal up. It's been 20 years or so and still doeasn't leak.
Do it right the first time, or keep doing it over again. If any kind of straight edge shows a gap, fix it.

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http://www.ae-ta.com" rel="nofollow - http://www.ae-ta.com
Lena 1935 WC12xxx, Willie 1951 CA6xx Dad bought new, 1954WD45 PS, 1960 D17 NF

Posted By: Sugarmaker
Date Posted: 01 Apr 2019 at 10:27am

I agree, the right way is to have the head and the manifold machined. I did not do that on two engines since like the OP, I was not ready to take the engine down. Wait; I did have one of them set up and surfaced ground on the manifold to true it up. Yea a straight edge tells the tale and as others have taught me it is usually the outside (end of head) ports that are lower than the center ports.

The WD45 engine will have the head shaved and the manifold flattened. With new gaskets it should seal up for another 50 years.

Regards,

Chris

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D17 1958 (NFE), WD45 1954 (NFE), WD 1952 (NFE), WD 1950 (WFE), Allis F-40 forklift, Allis CA, Allis D14, Ford Jubilee, Many IH Cub Cadets, 32 Ford Dump, 65 Comet.

Posted By: 1947WC
Date Posted: 01 Apr 2019 at 2:57pm

Thank you guys for all the great information. Vary much apreciated

Posted By: savedallis1953
Date Posted: 02 Apr 2019 at 9:26am

Used to take my HD heads to a level slab of broom finished concrete and slide em around for a little while, worked like a charm. Matter of fact I have a 4" A/C head needs re-finishing so here goes.

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1953 WD, 1953 WD, WD engine with WD-45 crankshaft.

Posted By: DaveKamp
Date Posted: 02 Apr 2019 at 11:20am

The head on my WD-45 was so eroded away on the front cylinder end, that I had to mill the whole thing at an angle to make it flat again. I anchored it down on the bed of the Bridgeport with about a quarter-inch of shim stock on the worn end, and skimmed off JUST ENOUGH to be visible, and then mowed down everything in between. I did essentially same thing with the exhaust manifold, but I used surface grinder instead, as the flycutter would've busted it all apart.

Note that I've cleaned up others (where the head wasn't badly eroded away) with a belt sander, a file, and a straightedge. I put straightedge on it, looked for the high spots, and used a file layed flat across it to 'mark' the problem areas... then I used the belt sander to work the high areas down.

Trying to stack gaskets won't last long... they need to have lots of clamping pressure in order to exhibit strength.

Good part, is that if you take the time to do it right, and get it installed well (use new bolts if you have any that are even SLIGHTLY problematic), it'll seal tight, and run WONDERFULLY.

Before you make a huge investment in time on that manifold, check it for cracks elsewhere. If you find any, just cut to the chase and buy a new one- you won't regret it.

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Ten Amendments, Ten Commandments, and one Golden Rule solve most every problem. Citrus hand-cleaner with Pumice does the rest.