I 2nd Steve(ill) for the CS130 ! I've converted all 4 of my D-14s with them  and zero problems. Got them all for free at scrap yard..just be sure to get the connector ! Up here NAPA wants $20+ for it ! I used airgun to unzip the pulley nuts, genny pulley fits alt perfect.If you build the brackets right, you can use the same fanbelt ! There are smaller alternators( Denso ?) but be sure to get TWO identical units so wiring is the same.

Also on the CS-130, you can remove the 4 screws and rotate the end sections to 3-6-9-12 o'clock positions to get the connector to better line up.

Jay

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EDIT Update. I am talking about a 1948 C in this post.

Down below I have a pipe tube spacer cut to length to make up for the difference  between generator and alternator, and a long single bolt.

The 10SI body is about 6" diameter, the 130cs is 5.2. My 10Si does clear the chicken roost steering arm. But not by much. I think the 130 would be a better choice.

1 wire or 3 wire. Oh brother, this can start a war. Some people say the one wire needs to spin too fast to turn on, and it's always on regulator will drain you battery. I don't know.

Other say those problems were 1980's tech and is no longer the case. I don't know. 

If the new one wire alternators are OK, someone should step up and state which model/ order number and vendor  is the one to get,for tractors, in both 10si and 130cs sizes.

I installed new 12v headlights. Put a 12v bulb in the rear (and rare) taiiight.

Dumped the ammeter for a voltmeter.  i replaced the magneto kill switch with a toggle kill switch. One set of contacts ground/unground the magneto. The other set of contacts

send power to the alternator regulator, with a resistor to replace the idiot light they normally used on a car with alternator. The battery is the Duralast 26RDL. This is low enough so the battery won't short out on the battery box cover. But I did glue a sheet of rubber to bottom of the cover. All installed 2012 with no problems yet.

Thinking it all over, a one wire 130CS would be choice if I had to do it over.

For the "C" model, the Denso or the Delco "CS" series will fit the application better because of the steering drag link. An "SI" series Delco would fit the WD without to much trouble providing you either modify the original Gennie bracket or fab your own frame mount bracket. We offer Alternator brackets for either machine if you don't want to fab your own or ruin the OEM bracket. We also offer complete 12V conversion kits which gives you everything you need to do the deed except ambition. The bracket is optional.

As for the one wire, some folks here have success using a one wire. Some use larger pulleys, some use the newer style one wires (they still draw when sitting just so ya know) and some modify the cases like mentioned above.  I always tell our customer's to use a three wire design. Its not that much harder (two wires more) and whatever you're using up front for the charging chores will start to charge right around 400-450 rpm. Right where the engine normally idles and there's no extra revving of the engine to get the one wire version to charge. Its not that tough really. Your call there on what you decide. My suggestion is if you go with a one wire and the Tractor sits alot before you get around to use it for certain tasks, remove the ground cable while it sits, cause' it'll be dead by the time you get ready to use it..... If you need help or information, as WF owner mentioned, you can visit our website and do some reading before you make your decision. I've been designing wiring systems, wiring vehicles, and rebuilding electrical components for 50 years now. Glad to help you out if you have any questions....

Steve@B&B

some reasons to convert to 12 are

1)easy to jump start ,cause everything is 12 these days.. Imagine the fun calling AAA for a 6 volt boost !!

2) cheap addon lights...lots(1,000s)  of 12 volt LEDS ,not too many 6 volts though

3) easy to run winch or water pump(weed sprayer). most (all) are 12 volt.

4) easy to jump start neighbours car cause your tractor's now 12 volts

5) simple to add a radio....heater...A/C....charger cell, etc.

6) quicker to recharge the battery. The 'big' benefit for me cause most of my uses are short time events. Gennys like all day to fillup the battery with new electrons.

7) usually forces you to replace 100% of the 1/2 centurey old, PO bodged wiring, that was causing you no end of grief......

yes, the 60 year old genny IF properly rebuilt and used as designd will work fine but.... we don't do things the way granpa did !

8) alternators from cars are free or cheap.

9) 12 V batteries are cheap or free.

10) not many rebuilders out there any more, easier to get a new or free alternator.

11) building brackets, sizing pulleys adjusting and re-wiring keeps the mind active and young!

And now I learn that the one wire alternators still have their quirks.

I recently re-wired my Ford 3000 and kept the generator and regulator. Works fine.

I've been preachin' for years. To each his own. I build anything our customer's want. Some folks like the OEM look, and some don't care if it doesn't look correct. They just want it reliable....

Steve@B&B

The generator's regulation scheme revolved around a solenoid coil pulling in a contact that cycled the field current out at a fairly high rate.  Couple this with the generator's generally low output, and long running hours, and a basically nonexistant (by later standards) electrical load it was sufficient. When used in a day-to-day operation, and it, and the battery, were well maintained, it was a fairly dependable solution.

Times have changed in just about every respect.  Antique tractors don't get run every day, they don't get battery water checked every week... they don't as rigorously get run at working speeds, and that regulator doesn't get checked often enough.

Realize that a generator, is just an alternator with a commutator.  An alternator doesn't need a commutator, it has slip rings and DIODES.  Slip rings don't need the kind of attention that a commutator does... and diodes don't 'wear out'.

Oh... and alternators' integral electronic regulator have incredibly tight control in comparison to a mechanical contact unit.  If you want a battery to last, you need to keep the volt-per-cell charging in appropriate control, regardless of engine speed and running time.  Alternators do that really well.  Not to say that a mechanical unit CAN'T, but it needs a whole lot more human attention, and very regular exercise, to do so.

I prefer to keep original things original, and I LOVE a good magneto... in a constant-speed, hand-start application.

The reason why these components have been changed in the past, is due to utilitarian issues... and it's driven solely by any one, or combination of the following:

1)  Parts are more IMMEDIATELY available in a time of IMMEDIATE need...

2)  A guy can't make it work, but he can make something ELSE work...

3) What it was able to do in the past, is not sufficient for what it's being asked to do today, without some adaptation or enhancement.

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My starter was never changed on my D14 by the PO when he went to 12v.  Every time I would start it, it would grind on the ring gear.  I finally took my starter to the stater store and had the guy convert it to 12v.  Works great now.  The ballast resistor I got was for a very old, olds, or Buick.  I went to a real auto parts store and the guy new exactly what I needed.

As stated previously, it sure is more convenient having everything 12v.  If you are restoring to make a, "correct police", original tractor, you may prefer the genny, but if it's just a work tractor, who cares!?!?

Don't know what your starter guy did to your starter, but a 6 volt starter works just fine, rewired to 12 V...

the 'starter guy' probably replaced the 6v field coils with 12v ones however.....

there is another difference to a 12V D-14 vs a 6V D-14. the 12 v D-14 has a different ring gear AND bendix gear !!  I have 2 6v -14s and one official 12 v D-14. Both 6v D-14s start fine on 12v.

jay

I have had real good luck with the alternators on the WD series tractors.

Regards,

 Chris

Running 12V's through 6V field coils makes the Starter motor violent. Busted or cracked nose cones, torn up ring gears, etc. are just a couple of the issues. I'm not saying the 6V Starter won't handle the 12V's, you're just better off changing the Starter over to 12V so the Starter motor engages smoothly. The effort and money involved doing the Starter CORRECTLY saves from splitting the Tractor to renew the ring gear down the road. And ya know it always happens at the worst time!  Plus, with the nice smooth transition to the flywheel, all components will survive another 30 years or more done right....

Steve@B&B

Half true Dave. There's still good USA made parts for the Delco's. Just gotta' go to the right places to get em'. I have all my arms rewound no problem. Some come in pretty toasted and could possibly be junk, but most can be saved. I've done em' a zillion times. You're right about the Prestolites and Autolites. Parts getting real tough for those units. They're in the same catagory as Terranasurus Rex!  LOL!

Steve@B&B