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WD 45 starting problem

Printed From: Unofficial Allis
Category: Allis Chalmers
Forum Name: Farm Equipment
Forum Description: everything about Allis-Chalmers farm equipment
URL: https://www.allischalmers.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=157960
Printed Date: 18 Sep 2025 at 7:21am
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Topic: WD 45 starting problem
Posted By: Stanley
Subject: WD 45 starting problem
Date Posted: 07 Feb 2019 at 9:29am
Recently had trouble starting. (have 12 volt system) Replaced battery, new cables & ends. Actually had starter out and serviced. The tractor will start if I pull it.
I took the starter out yesterday again and tried turning the crankshaft gear with a long punch. It will turn, but with a lot of force. 
When I try to start the engine barely makes a groan, sounds like a very weak battery or bad connection somewhere. The voltage from battery to starter drops to about 6 when trying to start.
I think my problem is that something is making the engine turn-over too hard. Any ideas/suggestions?



Replies:
Posted By: CTuckerNWIL
Date Posted: 07 Feb 2019 at 10:30am
What does the starter switch look like? The contact on the starter can wear and erode. The switch contacts can erode also , making a poor connection. I file can fix these contacts up if they aren't too far gone and you can hold your mouth right and keep the angles good for best contact.


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http://www.ae-ta.com" rel="nofollow - http://www.ae-ta.com
Lena 1935 WC12xxx, Willie 1951 CA6xx Dad bought new, 1954WD45 PS, 1960 D17 NF


Posted By: Stanley
Date Posted: 07 Feb 2019 at 10:41am
It's a push button starter switch that's connected to the long starter rod. 
Contacts look okay. I replaced the starter switch couple yrs. ago. I am pretty certain the contacts are clean and secure.


Posted By: jaybmiller
Date Posted: 07 Feb 2019 at 10:48am
If you 'jumper' the starter switch and it starts nice...it's the 'starter swich', if it doesn't then I'd say battery cables and or connections.
I use premade cables NOT ones where I have to bolt/clamp/crimp/? the ends onto 'raw' cable. You NEED really good connections. How's the battery ground ? clean and shiny with new ,clean bolt and lock washer ??
A 12V battery dropping to 6 means there's a high resistance 'somewhere' in the wiring. 'high' in this case means a FRACTION of an ohm, which you wil NOT see on any normal meter.

Jay


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3 D-14s,A-C forklift, B-112
Kubota BX23S lil' TOOT( The Other Orange Tractor)

Never burn your bridges, unless you can walk on water


Posted By: Stanley
Date Posted: 07 Feb 2019 at 10:57am
Thanks,Jaybmiller. I give it another "look see" tomorrow. Can't get to the farm today - rain, sleet & snow. Tomorrow just below zero temps.


Posted By: Stan IL&TN
Date Posted: 07 Feb 2019 at 11:09am
Pull spark plugs and use hand crank to rotate engine. If it turns easy then you have eliminated too tight an engine. Starter could be bad and pulling too many amps loading down new battery. New battery could be bad. Did you charge the new battery before use? These are just my thoughts.

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1957 WD45 dad's first AC

1968 one-seventy

1956 F40 Ferguson


Posted By: Ted J
Date Posted: 07 Feb 2019 at 1:17pm
Agree with Stan.  Could be bent/stuck push rods, valves or even stuck crankshaft bearings.  You've gotta take baby steps and try one thing at a time.


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"Allis-Express"
19?? WC / 1941 C / 1952 CA / 1956 WD45 / 1957 WD45 / 1958 D-17


Posted By: Alvin M
Date Posted: 07 Feb 2019 at 2:04pm
he sad it will run if he tows it then engine is ok  take switch off starter jump right on starter post with good battery ground jumper cable to starter 


Posted By: Steve in NJ
Date Posted: 07 Feb 2019 at 5:22pm
If you're running a 12V system, then you should have the Starter changed over to 12V using a starter relay either mounted on the Starter motor or on the Tractor. First, charge the Battery up, then do a draw test on the Battery to make sure your power supply is reliable. If the Battery passes, I would move to the Starter and have a reliable rebuilder run through it and set it up for 12V w/a relay. Move to a key crank start Ignition switch. Those old mechanical switches are the worst for transferring power, especially running the fast moving current of 12V's through them!  With that type of king size voltage drop, my bet is on the Starter providing the engine is loose and nothing internal is going on with rod n' main bearings...  We offer 6-12V Starter conversions done the correct way if interested....
Steve@B&B


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39'RC, 43'WC, 48'B, 49'G, 50'WF, 65 Big 10, 67'B-110, 75'716H, 2-620's, & a Motorhead wife


Posted By: Stanley
Date Posted: 07 Feb 2019 at 5:40pm
A little more history - I've had the tractor for about 5 yrs. It had the 12 volt sys. when I got it and it always started easily. A few weeks ago the problem started. Thought battery as it was 5+ yrs old. I did charge the new battery and it held a charge, also had the starter out and serviced by a good rebuilder. He said the starter was ok. I have tried going from the battery directly to the starter post and still get a "groan", will not turn over the engine.
Unfortunately this tractor does not have the "pin" in the front for a crank. So, I'm not able to crank it. If I took out the plugs and tried to start, would that tell me if the engine is ok?


Posted By: DiyDave
Date Posted: 07 Feb 2019 at 6:10pm
Originally posted by Stanley Stanley wrote:

A little more history - I've had the tractor for about 5 yrs. It had the 12 volt sys. when I got it and it always started easily. A few weeks ago the problem started. Thought battery as it was 5+ yrs old. I did charge the new battery and it held a charge, also had the starter out and serviced by a good rebuilder. He said the starter was ok. I have tried going from the battery directly to the starter post and still get a "groan", will not turn over the engine.
Unfortunately this tractor does not have the "pin" in the front for a crank. So, I'm not able to crank it. If I took out the plugs and tried to start, would that tell me if the engine is ok?

Yes, It takes compression issues out of the loop.  How do the cables look?  If they are corroded, or too thin, they can heat up, and cause resistance.  Good luck...Wink


Posted By: allisbred
Date Posted: 07 Feb 2019 at 6:20pm
May want to check the new battery for dead cells, I have bought batteries that had a short. My 45 is very tight with the hand crank, don’t think I have enough “** to whip it. Go back to a screw driver to jump starter and minimize all power losses then replace cables and switch. That will be much cheaper than digging in the engine.


Posted By: Alberta Phil
Date Posted: 07 Feb 2019 at 6:21pm
How is your ground connection from the battery cable to the engine?  Is the connection clean and shiny?  Poor ground is a common problem.


Posted By: MACK
Date Posted: 07 Feb 2019 at 8:13pm
Had a new tractor that didn't turn over good. Found cables were corroded on inside. This one could have got sea water in it on boat ride over here.      MACK


Posted By: wide
Date Posted: 07 Feb 2019 at 11:11pm
Should turn over hand if you grab the fan belt and fan right?

 I suppose if the clutch was dragging it would allow you to pull start but be hard to start with the starter,..
but wouldn't the tractor jump forward?


Posted By: truckerfarmer
Date Posted: 08 Feb 2019 at 6:53am
If transmission is out if gear probably would not notice tractor jump forward when it starts. Are you pushing the foot clutch when you try starting it? Just disengaging the hand clutch still leaves the PTO and hydraulic pump engaged.
You have replaced most of the components in the starting system, so that eliminates that. Like others have said check the ground cable, but also check that the starter is grounding to the bellhousing. Using a battery charger with boost mode, try connecting directly to the lug on the starter to eliminate if the battery, switch or cables are bad. Make sure it is out of gear if you try that.

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Looking at the past to see the future.
'53 WD, '53 WD45, WD snap coupler field cultivator, #53 plow,'53 HD5B dozer

Duct tape.... Can't fix stupidity. But will muffle the sound of it!


Posted By: Ted J
Date Posted: 08 Feb 2019 at 11:46am
Originally posted by Stanley Stanley wrote:

A few weeks ago the problem started.

If I took out the plugs and tried to start, would that tell me if the engine is ok?


What problem?  The starter not turning the engine over?

Taking the plugs out will allow the engine to (should) turn over very easily, no compression.  It won't really tell if the engine is ok though.  Too many variables there.  It will tell you that it is not locked up is all.

Lets go back to when it all started, tell us what it did, what happened...


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"Allis-Express"
19?? WC / 1941 C / 1952 CA / 1956 WD45 / 1957 WD45 / 1958 D-17


Posted By: Stanley
Date Posted: 30 Mar 2019 at 11:27am
Solved the problem. It was the starter. Had it checked once and was told it was ok, but after exhausting other suggestions offered by forum members, I went back to the starter. Thanks to all for the help.



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