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190XT project

Printed From: Unofficial Allis
Category: Allis Chalmers
Forum Name: Farm Equipment
Forum Description: everything about Allis-Chalmers farm equipment
URL: https://www.allischalmers.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=157649
Printed Date: 01 Jun 2025 at 6:40am
Software Version: Web Wiz Forums 11.10 - http://www.webwizforums.com


Topic: 190XT project
Posted By: ebowman
Subject: 190XT project
Date Posted: 28 Jan 2019 at 6:49am
I'm tearing down a 190XT for an overhaul. Just about have the engine completely tore down. On the to do list is turn crank, have the head redone, and new bearings and pistons. When I finally got the engine pulled out this weekend I found that the clutch that I put in about 5 years ago needs replaced. It is a 4 pad clutch and other than that I dont know what material. I use this tractor alot with a loader. Wrapping and feeding hay and loading manure. Question is.... why did the clutch wear out in 5 years?? Also, it appears to have waaay to much gear lashing on the crank. I am going to have a new gear put on when I turn crank. Going to replace the idler gear as well. Do I need to replace all 4 of the gears at the same time? I haven't pulled the camshaft out yet, but was planning on new lifters.
Help me out with some pointers!! has about 8000 hours on it and nothing major has ever been done to engine. 


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WD45, '62 D17 Diesel, '65 190XTD, '74 7030, 1958 Roto-Baler



Replies:
Posted By: darrel in ND
Date Posted: 28 Jan 2019 at 7:10am
As for the clutch; loader work, and other chores that require a lot of clutching will wear a clutch out way faster than the type of use, such as field work, where you let the clutch out in the morning, and don't step on it again until you stop for dinner. I did hear one time, that for the type of use of constant clutching/de-clutching, and never a hard pull, a fiber disk clutch plate will out last a button clutch. I can't verify that though. Darrel


Posted By: 6080fwa
Date Posted: 28 Jan 2019 at 7:22am
I know on my 175 there was a 4 pad option and I think a 6 pad option for clutches. Maybe try to get a heavy duty one for it. Luk makes a lot of clutches for oe manufacturers.
I would never install a 4 pad clutch on anything if I could help it.


Posted By: WF owner
Date Posted: 28 Jan 2019 at 10:36am
Talk to Rick Corder about the clutch. I, personally, think his clutch (and brake) rebuilds are better than anything you can buy today. 

Before you have the crank turned, ask DrAllis' advice on crank turning.


Posted By: SteveM C/IL
Date Posted: 28 Jan 2019 at 1:37pm
....I don't know about 301's but the book on my 8000 426 is very specific
about how the crank is to be ground.I think the problem arises when given directions aren't followed.


Posted By: DougG
Date Posted: 28 Jan 2019 at 6:41pm
That crank grinding thing is a big deal that I really don't understand , but would like to know the details on it


Posted By: MACK
Date Posted: 28 Jan 2019 at 9:28pm
If you have a good man and a good machine, a regrind is ok.      MACK


Posted By: ebowman
Date Posted: 29 Jan 2019 at 6:46am
From the research I have done a regrind will be fine if done properly. Its all about the fillet radius (If you Google it there is a wealth of info). Some shops grind that out and that is what destroys the crank. The service book for the 190 does a really good job explaining how to grind it. I am going to take the book with me when I drop off the crank so they can use it as a reference. It sounds like the 426s had some trouble with the cranks. However, is that a result of an inferior product or is that a result of setting the machine up for something it wasn't designed for?? Products of this era seem to be overbuilt and under engineered. Newer equipment is over engineered and under built!

Still I know there is TONS of knowledge on this site and welcome any and all of it. While doing this rebiuld I want to make her almost as good as new or better so that we don't have to crack her open for another 50 years!!


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WD45, '62 D17 Diesel, '65 190XTD, '74 7030, 1958 Roto-Baler



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