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Deutz-Allis 5230 service- have questions

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Category: Allis Chalmers
Forum Name: Farm Equipment
Forum Description: everything about Allis-Chalmers farm equipment
URL: https://www.allischalmers.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=157410
Printed Date: 17 Jul 2025 at 11:55pm
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Topic: Deutz-Allis 5230 service- have questions
Posted By: JohnH123
Subject: Deutz-Allis 5230 service- have questions
Date Posted: 19 Jan 2019 at 5:04pm
Hi guys, im working on a deutz-allis 5230 for a guy. The battery swapped it's polarity so it blew the fusible link, which I have fixed and it now works as it should. 

He wants me to do a service on it. My questions to you guys are; 

1) what type of hydraulic oil do I need to use, and does anyone have a part # for the filter.
2) whats the best way to bleed the fuel system?
3) what type of oil for the transmission?
4) anything else i should look out for? 

Thanks!


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Ignorance is curable- stupidity is not. ~427435




Replies:
Posted By: Reindeer
Date Posted: 19 Jan 2019 at 8:02pm
Can't answer all your questions, but on these Hinomoto built tractors, any hydraulic/transmission oil that meets AC spec 821 is OK.  I buy from Walmart, and seems to be fine.
Another service point is the fuel pump.  You need to drain it and put in about 200 ml (on my 5015, NOT SURE ON THE 5230) of engine oil directly into the pump, at the same time you  change engine oil.  On my 5015, there is a plate on the pump with two bolts, that you take off and put the oil into the pump.  If you overfill it, it just dumps into the oil pan, so no harm.
I'm sure someone who has full info will be along, but hope this is helpful.



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Posted By: Unit3
Date Posted: 19 Jan 2019 at 8:25pm
A batteries + can become - ??? Never have heard of that. Not saying it can't, just never heard of it before. The things you can learn on the AC page.

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2-8070FWA PS/8050PS/7080/7045PS/200/D15-II/2-WD45/WD/3-WC/UC/C


Posted By: JohnH123
Date Posted: 19 Jan 2019 at 8:40pm
I know, right? I didn't believe it until i had it tested and the guy at napa could hardly believe it either until one of the old guys came and confirmed he had seen it once before. 

I'll be using JD hy-guard oil which meets the spec mentioned above. Are the tranny and hydraulic sump separate on this tractor?

also to confirm, is this oil fill on the OIL PUMP or the INJECTION PUMP? 


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Ignorance is curable- stupidity is not. ~427435



Posted By: Reindeer
Date Posted: 19 Jan 2019 at 8:50pm
The engine oil needs to be changed in the injection pump.  Only diesel pump I have ever seen that needed this done.  Normally neglected, as most people don't know or do it. i've attached a pdf file of the operators manual for the 5015, which is also made by Hinomoto, but the smaller model.

  uploads/949/20190119_074703.PDF" rel="nofollow - uploads/949/20190119_074703.PDF


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Posted By: JohnH123
Date Posted: 20 Jan 2019 at 10:42am
Thanks! thats very helpful!

Now, are the transmission and  hydraulic sumps separate or the same on this tractor?


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Ignorance is curable- stupidity is not. ~427435



Posted By: Reindeer
Date Posted: 20 Jan 2019 at 7:39pm
On my tractor they are all one.  On the 5015, the drain is behind the drawbar mount, so needed to drop the drawbar mount  to get at it.  Another Hinomoto special deal.  

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Posted By: JohnH123
Date Posted: 20 Jan 2019 at 8:44pm
awesome. What is involved in dropping the mount?

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Ignorance is curable- stupidity is not. ~427435



Posted By: Reindeer
Date Posted: 21 Jan 2019 at 9:54am
On my 5015 the drawbar is pinned into a bracket that attaches with 4 studs.  It is definitely not made for heavy drawbar loading.  
I just pulled the nuts off the four studs, and then could get at the drain which is in the rear vertical face of the gearbox, at the lowest point.  I have no idea if this is the same on the 5230.


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Posted By: JohnH123
Date Posted: 12 Feb 2019 at 7:05pm
Alrighty guys, the 5230 has the tranny and hydro sump combined, and the drawbar support doesn't have to come off to drain the fluid. 

Now, whats the best way to bleed the fuel system? I changed the filter (made sure it has fuel in it) and cracked the injector lines but no dice. Is there a bleed screw? what am I missing?


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Ignorance is curable- stupidity is not. ~427435



Posted By: MACK
Date Posted: 12 Feb 2019 at 9:14pm
If a battery is completely dead, it can be charged either way. Owner did not want to admit he screwed up.       MACK.


Posted By: JohnH123
Date Posted: 13 Feb 2019 at 7:23am
He originally pulled it in because the hydro oil was low. Shut it off to fill up and it was messed up. its all fixed now. 

Anyway, I need to advise on bleeding the fuel system. Any thoughts?


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Ignorance is curable- stupidity is not. ~427435



Posted By: Jim.ME
Date Posted: 13 Feb 2019 at 7:37am
You can use the on line parts book at http://www.agcopartsbooks.com/partsbooksn/login.aspx?region=northamerica" rel="nofollow - http://www.agcopartsbooks.com/partsbooksn/login.aspx?region=northamerica .
Sign in as a guest user. Search 5230 as model, AGCO Allis as manufacturer.

The 5230 book shows 72102555 Strainer Asy., Suction. It looks like a spin on filter but I tried to cross it to Wix, Baldwin, and Donaldson - no luck.


Posted By: Jim.ME
Date Posted: 13 Feb 2019 at 7:43am
In the parts book it looks like there is a bleeder in the top of the filter housing and one on the injection pump. That is just by looks in the book, not hands on info.


Posted By: JohnH123
Date Posted: 13 Feb 2019 at 8:18am
I have a filter in place, napa 3390.

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Ignorance is curable- stupidity is not. ~427435



Posted By: Jim.ME
Date Posted: 13 Feb 2019 at 8:57am
I think we have a bit of confusion. The AGCO # 72102555, hydraulic strainer assembly, I posted was in reply to your question: "1) what type of hydraulic oil do I need to use, and does anyone have a part # for the filter." Someone else posted the answer on the oil to use.

NAPA 3390 is their fuel filter cross, and hopefully that is where/what you are referring to. I wouldn't put it on the hydraulic suction, unless I saw manufacturer info that it is a proper cross; even if it screwed on the hydraulic base.


Posted By: DiyDave
Date Posted: 13 Feb 2019 at 5:47pm
Originally posted by JohnH123 JohnH123 wrote:

Alrighty guys, the 5230 has the tranny and hydro sump combined, and the drawbar support doesn't have to come off to drain the fluid. 

Now, whats the best way to bleed the fuel system? I changed the filter (made sure it has fuel in it) and cracked the injector lines but no dice. Is there a bleed screw? what am I missing?

Looked in my 5220 manual, don't know if it is the same, but the sequence is make sure fuel valve is on, above filter.  bleed screw on filter, front of valve, loosen Do not remove, let fuel out till bubbles stop.  then bleed pump, same way, screw is in line with fuel flow, on pump.  loosen let flow till bubbles stop.  then if needed, bleed injector lines...Wink


Posted By: JohnH123
Date Posted: 15 Feb 2019 at 7:56pm
Originally posted by DiyDave DiyDave wrote:

Originally posted by JohnH123 JohnH123 wrote:

Alrighty guys, the 5230 has the tranny and hydro sump combined, and the drawbar support doesn't have to come off to drain the fluid. 

Now, whats the best way to bleed the fuel system? I changed the filter (made sure it has fuel in it) and cracked the injector lines but no dice. Is there a bleed screw? what am I missing?

Looked in my 5220 manual, don't know if it is the same, but the sequence is make sure fuel valve is on, above filter.  bleed screw on filter, front of valve, loosen Do not remove, let fuel out till bubbles stop.  then bleed pump, same way, screw is in line with fuel flow, on pump.  loosen let flow till bubbles stop.  then if needed, bleed injector lines...Wink


Gee i wish i'd have known not to take the filter screw out all the way....

but in all seriousness, I just loosed the screw on the filter head, then the one on the IP (the same bolt that connects the fuel line to the pump) and then cracked the injector lines. Took about 10 seconds of cranking to get fuel. tightened em up and it started right up! 

Thanks for the help everyone! later on i'll compile the part # of all the items I used for service, so there will be an up-to-date comprehensive list for anyone else out there looking for info.

Thanks everyone!


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Ignorance is curable- stupidity is not. ~427435



Posted By: tbran
Date Posted: 16 Feb 2019 at 9:08pm
the AC/ MF compacts were built by Toyosha.  We always bled the system by blocking or pinching the drip line return, just barely opening the bleed on the pump and wrapping a shop rag around a blow gun and slightly pressurizing the tank - then crank while continue pressurizing =  takes about 25 seconds or less then finish tighten the bleed remove the drip block..   Toyosha went bust and became part of another brand of the holding company Hinomoto that became   http://tractors.wikia.com/wiki/Hitachi_Tierra" rel="nofollow -


Posted By: tbran
Date Posted: 16 Feb 2019 at 9:19pm
72102555 was the hyd filter element - and if memory serves me correct the pump sets down on a camshaft that is part of the block / crankcase / gov - unlike the 5020-5030 fuel pumps that have to have the oil changed...

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When told "it's not the money,it's the principle", remember, it's always the money..



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