Is a cool running powerful 426 Possible?
Printed From: Unofficial Allis
Category: Allis Chalmers
Forum Name: Farm Equipment
Forum Description: everything about Allis-Chalmers farm equipment
URL: https://www.allischalmers.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=157229
Printed Date: 18 Jul 2025 at 5:46pm
Software Version: Web Wiz Forums 11.10 - http://www.webwizforums.com
Topic: Is a cool running powerful 426 Possible?
Posted By: shieldslx13
Subject: Is a cool running powerful 426 Possible?
Date Posted: 14 Jan 2019 at 1:37pm
| Good afternoon guys. In September my dad passed and left me his 220 allis. I have a small hobby farm (15 acres) and I was thinking of buying a 6 16 plow to grow. I grew up on his 1000 acre farm ( that my brother still farms) and spent many a year clipping with the tractor which is why I assume he has given it to me. I LOVE Allis and he had as follows 220, 7080, 7060, 200, 190xt 7000. D21 he sold before he got his 220. Without a doubt the 301 Allis is one of the finest diesels ever created. The 426 however....My brother has all but given up on them. If I cant figure out why they all run hot, wont start, wont create boost, and have NO power under 2000 rpm he is just going to park them and buy a 1586 IH. The 220 has new turbo, sleeve kit, cam, rebuilt pump and injectors pop tested at 3k. Everyone says always acts like I'm crazy, but I can rebuild the 301 and make it sing. The 7080 is a monster when it is above 2200 rpm, under that and it will barely move itself. My brother is contemplated putting compound turbos on it to make power to lug but as some have told him, best not to do anything to the "Harvey hand grenades" Really like to use my 220 and for him not to go to the red side... but outlook is not good. |
Replies:
Posted By: shieldslx13
Date Posted: 14 Jan 2019 at 4:02pm
| anyone???????????? |
Posted By: Tracy Martin TN
Date Posted: 14 Jan 2019 at 5:16pm
|
Sorry to hear of your dad's passing. Sounds like my kind of guy. The 301 is a great engine, sounds great running day or night. I think the 426 was a good engine , but like anything it had it's limits. Several things cause one to run hot, loose fan belts, worn pulleys, impeller worn, timing off, missing foam around letting fan lose suction, stopped up radiator. Just to name a few. I would start trying to eliminate what is causing it. If your brother wants to go red, I would wonder if he really was kin! LOL HTH Tracy ------------- No greater gift than healthy grandkids! |
Posted By: CrestonM
Date Posted: 14 Jan 2019 at 5:20pm
|
Never heard them called "Harvey hand grenades" before. I have noticed occasionally on the L3 the gauge will dip into the red momentarily, then go back into the green. Radiator is good and clean. However...it does start easily and builds boost when needed, which is the opposite of what you've been experiencing. Perhaps the smarter A-C guys like the Dr. will chime in... |
Posted By: DrAllis
Date Posted: 14 Jan 2019 at 5:27pm
| That's a whole bunch of complaints all in one paragraph and kind of vague. "They all run hot"?...…"They won't start"?...."They won't create boost"????…… " They have NO power under 2,000 RPM and he's just going to park them and buy a 1586. I won't even address the remaining complaints. #1. Tractors that are 35+ years old running hot can sure be a lot of things. Like a dirty radiator inside and outside. Lack of foam around the entire radiator so air has to be directed thru the radiator core. New thermostats. Slipping fan belts and worn pulleys. (that 220 has to have really TIGHT fan belts or I know they will slip at full throttle). And on a 7000 series there is always a good possibility the temp gauge is reading high making you think it's hot when it isn't. Now if you want to argue about that, go right ahead cause I've changed out dozens of temp gauges and senders just for that complaint. I've also been down the road of "my radiator isn't dirty" and after I spend 3 hrs washing it out then it's clean thru the core where the air must go. #2. They won't start?? You must mean they start with difficulty?? Again 35 yr old starters and cables and on and on and on. You may as well buy the Farmall because on a 10 degree day I'm sure it will pop right off easy. That's their nature and they are 17 to 1 compression ratio. Funny a guy who lives in Kentucky doesn't know what cold even is when it comes to cold starting. There are a lot of Customers who live way farther north of you that know how to get an AC started when they need it. #3. They won't create boost?? Really like ZERO boost ?? That 7080 must make some boost over 2,000 RPM and 18 psi would be a minimum under full load. Your 220 should make probably 12 to 14 psi boost at full load depending on what turbo is on it. I would have installed a 7000 series turbo if it was recently replaced. If you have performance issues like this, they need to be addressed and not whine about "no boost". #4. They have no power under 2,000 RPM. Well, a well tuned 220-7030 thru 7060 turbo spool up point is 1700 RPM. Maybe the advance on your injection pump is advancing too soon? The 7080 is a little more like 2,000 RPM and that would be normal. You really don't want to lug these engine below those numbers anyway, as it places the bottom end of the engine under much stress and strain. The 7000 series and up all have a "wet" clutch and that it what it is made for. That wonderful Farmall has an old technology dry clutch. Good luck abusing it !! I'm really leaning towards telling you to get the Farmall. I can see your complaints will never be satisfied. |
Posted By: tbran
Date Posted: 14 Jan 2019 at 6:19pm
|
1. Engines run hot because the heat it takes to make power is not taken away -thermal rejection - by the cooling system - seems simple but the tractors were all designed to run around 205 degrees under full load for long periods of time. What causes most heating issues is exactly what the Dr. sez dirty clogged radiators. IF you think yours is clean remove the shroud and coolers in front and take a good look. If you can't see through the radiator fins they are clogged - if they are clogged only 10 per cent then the temp will probably be 220 degrees or hot on the gauge. You can tell if the coolant is flowing by running til the thermostats open and looking into the fill neck have some one rev from idle to full throttle - the coolant will go down immediately 2 to 3 inches. IF not it is corroded inside and must be rodded out. And I assure you they do not all run hot - I have 5 on the farm. One should not pull any old diesel designed with a rated load of 2200-2500 rpm loaded, under 2000 RPM - the rod brg load on old engines gets really high. Also each added hp due to fuel increase demands more coolant capacity. As to the 220 it will run fine at 135 hp... it will not run cool in hot weather at 160- 200 hp... on my 210 we installed a fan with more blades - worked great except as pointed out the belts slipped. I installed a flat idler on the RH side to push the belts in and 'wrap' the water pump pulley for more grip - my grooves are worn badly. Works great at a higher hp setting. Finally if you insist on running less than 2000 rpm get a turbo matched for that - like a .8 A/R ratio exhaust housing instead of the .96 that is std or get a waste gated turbo unit... BTY Plowing is a dirty word in Ky where No-til was born and perfected.... and if you do park the old AC's we would be glad to remove them to avoid the clutter and mowing around them issue. ------------- When told "it's not the money,it's the principle", remember, it's always the money.. |
Posted By: DougG
Date Posted: 14 Jan 2019 at 6:55pm
| Sounds like very poor mantaniace program to me, little things that don't take much time can make a big differerce |
Posted By: Guests
Date Posted: 14 Jan 2019 at 7:07pm
| The guy is a farmall guy..lets get down to brass frickin tacks. Buy the IH . |
Posted By: victoryallis
Date Posted: 14 Jan 2019 at 7:36pm
|
Betting life won’t be any better running red. Like Doc said the rads maybe dirtier than they appear. ------------- 8030 and 8050MFWD, 7580, 3 6080's, 160, 7060, 175, heirloom D17, Deere 8760 |
Posted By: rw
Date Posted: 14 Jan 2019 at 8:17pm
|
My 7060 won 't go over 180 no matter the load or outside temp if radiator core has been cleaned of debris and the foam kit around the radiator is in very good shape. We pulled a 6 bottom moldboard plow or a big disk (I think 24 feet) that loaded it pretty heavy. If either of those were not right it would run up to between 180 and 210 with less load than that even on 40 or 50 degree days. The radiator would stay cleaner if the foam kit was good. It was not turned up to my knowledge and I think that helps on overheating. I say the cooling system on those tractors is big enough and good enough. It do not really know what else to compare it to except my 424 ih utility tractor that does about the same if the core gets clogged up with grass seed bushogging. no foam to fail on it. Neighbor has a nice 7080 that always ran hot till he redid the foam He was amazed that he could work it hard as he wanted and no overheating.
|
Posted By: WF owner
Date Posted: 14 Jan 2019 at 8:41pm
| These tractors run in dust, pollen and a lot of other stuff. They get plugged up quickly! |
Posted By: darrel in ND
Date Posted: 14 Jan 2019 at 9:15pm
| I have 5 of the 426's and don't have any of the issue's that you described. Darrel |
Posted By: soggybottomboy
Date Posted: 14 Jan 2019 at 9:37pm
| Our 8050 was running a temperature too,so i took the radiator off and when they cleaned it at the radiator shop,it fell apart. Put in a new one and it doesn't even think about running hot,even when you are working it in a 90 degree day. |
Posted By: MACK
Date Posted: 14 Jan 2019 at 9:51pm
| You cannot see the inside of the radiator unless the top or bottom is removed. Take it to a radiator shop and have top removed then tell us the radiator is clean. MACK |
Posted By: lentsch
Date Posted: 15 Jan 2019 at 2:39am
|
Thought my 7060 was running hot, sending unit was bad. Easy fix for once! ------------- WD,D15,190XT,7000,8010x2,7060,8070 |
Posted By: jaybmiller
Date Posted: 15 Jan 2019 at 6:02am
|
My D-14 and the forklift both tended to run 'warm'. Took the rad out of the D-14, cleaned the rad inside and out and it's been fine ever since. The forklift's a real pain though. Can't get to the rad easy cause someone stuck a 4,000 # hunk of cast iron around it ! It does run a lot cooler when I can see daylight through the fins !! Now my Kubota has air 'reverse flow'. it draws air from operators station and pulls it past engin, through rad and out the front. They claim it keeps rad cleaner. I'm wondering if any of the 'big' tractors do this ? just some observations... Jay ------------- 3 D-14s,A-C forklift, B-112 Kubota BX23S lil' TOOT( The Other Orange Tractor) Never burn your bridges, unless you can walk on water |
Posted By: DrAllis
Date Posted: 15 Jan 2019 at 6:22am
| Yes. IH did that on the late great 5088-5288-5488 and it didn't work all that good. They took in air from the top of the hood and blew it forward thru the radiator inside of a box that made it hard to clean when needed. Imagine chopping corn and having leaves get sucked onto the top of the hood. Enuff said. |
Posted By: injpumpEd
Date Posted: 15 Jan 2019 at 8:03am
Especially a 1586! Great engine, but the 3 speed transmission puts you either too slow or too fast for ideal speeds, plus the TA will either be out or going out lmao! ------------- 210 "too hot to farm" puller, part of the "insane pumpkin posse". Owner of Guenther Heritage Diesel, specializing in fuel injection systems on heritage era tractors. stock rebuilds to all out pullers! |
victoryallis wrote:Posted By: Tbone95
Date Posted: 15 Jan 2019 at 8:49am
| Well, there's another potential new member who is probably sorry he asked. |
Posted By: Lonn
Date Posted: 15 Jan 2019 at 9:08am
|
Not to mention rear end troubles of nearly all high hp IH built tractors from the 66 series on through the 86 series. Look at the front axle of the IH. Now I grease my front axle parts on our 7030 and 7050 and all my tractors EVERY DAY I RUN IT but many don't. If you are not good with maintenance then a 1586 is not the tractor for you. Their front axles suck as does the shifting linkage and PTO linkage and especially when the cab sinks over time, the clutch valve linkage. The TA was already mentioned and yes you can save on it some if you don't abuse it but the TA WILL FAIL at some point because of the sprag clutch. The mechanical diode replacement CaseIH came up with to replace the sprag sucks too. Good luck with that 1586. You're brother will get an education on why maintenance is needed in a quick hurry. Hopefully he'll apply that lesson to the rest of his fleet. ------------- -- --- .... .- -- -- .- -.. / .-- .- ... / .- / -- ..- .-. -.. . .-. .. -. --. / -.-. .... .. .-.. -.. / .-. .- .--. .. ... - Wink I am a Russian Bot |
Posted By: Lonn
Date Posted: 15 Jan 2019 at 9:16am
------------- -- --- .... .- -- -- .- -.. / .-- .- ... / .- / -- ..- .-. -.. . .-. .. -. --. / -.-. .... .. .-.. -.. / .-. .- .--. .. ... - Wink I am a Russian Bot |
Posted By: 7060
Date Posted: 15 Jan 2019 at 9:18am
| My 7060 has always struggled to stay cool or at least below 100 ambient. In a hot day working it I can’t use all my available horsepower and stay at or below 200 degrees. My tractor is dynoing 190hp though and wasn’t made to keep cool at that horsepower. I took my radiator to a shop and had it rodded cleaned and boiled out, new foam, thermostats, digital temp gauge, and still wasn’t happy. I should have just put a 7080 radiator on with the extra cores. If it’s below 90 degrees outside no problems though. I would wonder with a 220/7030 if the pump has been changed and the radiator is smaller yet. |
Posted By: Alex09(WI)
Date Posted: 15 Jan 2019 at 10:02am
|
Welcome to the forum! Sorry to hear about your dad's passing. Don't listen to the naysayers on the forum, stick with Allis-Chalmers! I would suggest writing up a checklist with the potential causes mentioned above. Then choose one tractor to start on. Take one tractor at a time and concentrate on one problem at a time. Say the 7060. Take the hard starting problem first. My friend owns a 7060 and whenever it gets below 32, he plugs it in for a couple hours and it pops right off. Now try that if you have a working block heater and see if it starts good then. If you dont want to plug your tractors in, you need to find the reason they don't start well and fix it. The 426 needs 3 things to start good: Air, Heat from compression, and Fuel at the right time. 1. check the air filter to make sure it is not plugged. Then blow it out good with your air compressor to make sure it is clean. 2. a. Find out how many hours are on the tractor since its last overhaul. If its more than roughly 4000, you prolly have some wear on the pistons, rings and sleeves, causing you to no longer have perfect compression, resulting in less heat to ignite the fuel. b. Check the battery cables to make sure the clamp ends are free from corrosion and the cables themselves are not frayed. Replace as nessessary. Good cables are important to transfer the battery power to the starter without loosing voltage/amperage. c. Take the starter in to a repair shop to have it checked. The brushes and bushings are prolly wore. If its worn, have it rebuilt that way you have a fresh, properly performing starter. 3. Double check the injection pump to confirm the timing is not off. I had a 180 diesel tractor that started very hard and the timing was too far advanced. I retarded it a bit and then it started very easy (like night and day difference) Once you get the starting issue figured out, go to the overheating issue. Run the tractor up to operating temperature good and hot, then idle the tractor, then check the temperature of the coolant in the radiator with a laser temp gun or stick a thermometer in the top of the radiator. Now compare this reading to what it says on the gauge. You may find that the gauge is reading wrong. If so, replace the gauge and sending unit. If the radiator temp is in fact too high, check the things Dr allis and Tbran suggested above. The little things first and if you are still overheating, take the radiator in to a radiator shop to have it professionally cleaned. I would suggest installing a boost psi gauge to check what you have for boost at rthe moment. Try these suggestions and if needed, start a new post with which tractor you are working on and any problems you are having. One problem at a time though please, this post was a lot to think about lol! There are a lot of good knowledgeable people on this forum that are always glad to help another Allis guy keep his Allis's going!! Hopefully we'll help you get your Allis's back in the field and keep the IH's out! Again, welcome to the forum and if you are still reading this, sorry for the above people who told you to switch to IH, that is usually unheard of on this forum... ------------- www.awtractor.com A&W TRACTOR 920-598-1287 KEEPING ALLIS-CHALMERS IN THE FIELDS THROUGH THE 21ST CENTURY |
Posted By: wekracer
Date Posted: 15 Jan 2019 at 10:04am
| We have an 8050 and 8070 both power shift. The 50 was starting to heat about 6 years ago. Pulled the radiator and had it rodded and put new foam in. Has stayed cool ever since. The 8070 will heat up if it’s 90 outside and you work it hard. 5th low is 6.2 mph. If I drop to 4th it stays cool. i Probably need to pull that radiator too and have it done. |
Posted By: shieldslx13
Date Posted: 15 Jan 2019 at 10:05am
|
Thanks for all the replies.... I hope I offended no one!!!!! I love Allis, I really do. To let me also post my case... My brother has an amazing maintenance program. Rot T synthetic every 100 hrs, along with new filters all the way around. While we have rebuilt pumps and injectors on our own, we do not feel confidant in doing so. Pop pressure is right on the injectors compression is good. I do understand the foam, although I didn't until I finally stuffed some t-shirts between the radiator and frame on the 220. I have since put on the real. I am asking questions because I am confidant that these can run good. My suspicion is the injector pumps. Also, when I ordered a cam for my 220, It was the same PN as the 301. The reason he is wanting an IH is the indestructability and power of his 1466 combines. I was honestly hoping someone would tell me "oh I had those exact same problems and it was ....." I was thinking about getting an injector pump and injectors off a good running 426 and seeing if that helps. And we have also done the radiators. My Dad, before he died, bought an Oliver (Moline) 1355 with the 585 and that thing is an absolute MONSTER.
|
Posted By: shieldslx13
Date Posted: 15 Jan 2019 at 10:14am
| And I take great offense to the Farmall guy quote, LOL. |
Posted By: shieldslx13
Date Posted: 15 Jan 2019 at 10:16am
| And for goodness sakes I have an Allis Christmas stocking! |
Posted By: allisrutledge
Date Posted: 15 Jan 2019 at 10:33am
|
I have a 210 that runs cool at any load and I think it is set at or near original specs. I'd like to have 175 horse power but it does what I ask and runs great. ------------- Allis Chalmers still exist in my mind and barns |
Posted By: BKarpel
Date Posted: 15 Jan 2019 at 10:35am
| We must have got lucky with our 1586. Its a good reliable tractor. Pulled a 9 shank disc chisel, 22 foot finish tool now mainly plants and grain cart. We did have to replace the ta,injector pump, and 2 push rods. It has 6000 hours and was worked hard before us. The owner was trying to out run a neighbor with a 2+2. I would send the injectors, pump, and turbo out to be checked out. Sound like the 220 bottom end is good but did any one do a valve job? Dont waste your time swapping fuel system. I was always told if you wearing a coat a Allis needs preheater held in. |
Posted By: SteveM C/IL
Date Posted: 15 Jan 2019 at 6:03pm
| My 220 and 8070 are both turned up and worked hard.Neither have heating issues. |
Posted By: Calvin Schmidt
Date Posted: 16 Jan 2019 at 6:26am
|
I have a "On Highway " spec engine in my 220. It has a Simms injector pump and the same injectors tips as a 7080. I added an intercooler and the large waterpump which is necessary to get proper circulation through the intercooler. This required moving the lower rad inlet to the left side and in the process the rad was recored with 7 - 1/2" rows. With the stock pump setting, it dynos 190 hp. I can pull a 24' AC 1400 cultivator all day in 6th gear with no overheating problems ------------- Nothing is impossible if it is properly financed |
Posted By: Lonn
Date Posted: 16 Jan 2019 at 6:48am
 ------------- -- --- .... .- -- -- .- -.. / .-- .- ... / .- / -- ..- .-. -.. . .-. .. -. --. / -.-. .... .. .-.. -.. / .-. .- .--. .. ... - Wink I am a Russian Bot |
Posted By: tornado8070
Date Posted: 16 Jan 2019 at 7:05am
Finally someone did which in my opinion is the most gained aid in keeping them cool. Recoring and adding the 7th row of tubes. A no brainer for $150 to add 15% cooling compacity. ------------- 09’ DT205B, 08’ DT220A, 83' 8070 MFWD, 83’ 8070 85’ 8050 MFWD, 83' 8030, 82' 8010, 85’ 6080 MFWD, 84’ 6080, 79' 7020, 85' M3 RWD, 85' 920 diesel,AC C-50 forklift. |
Posted By: DrAllis
Date Posted: 16 Jan 2019 at 7:13am
| An Engineer is caught between the Customer (who wants more for less $$$) and the Sales Dept (who wants things as cheap as possible to make more sales). If every tractor was equipped with a factory built oversized radiator and cooling system, Customers would always buy one size smaller than they need and "turn it up", knowing full well that the cooling system wasn't going to be an issue. Kind of like selling a lot of N-5's (and turning them up) versus selling N-6's. Customer could save several thousand dollars doing it that way. |
Posted By: WF owner
Date Posted: 16 Jan 2019 at 7:18am
| A radiator recored and an additional row of tubes for $150 ? I would like the name of the radiator shop that would do that !!! |
Posted By: Lonn
Date Posted: 16 Jan 2019 at 7:21am
|
What does the standard radiator, recored, cost compared to recoring and adding an additional of tubes? ------------- -- --- .... .- -- -- .- -.. / .-- .- ... / .- / -- ..- .-. -.. . .-. .. -. --. / -.-. .... .. .-.. -.. / .-. .- .--. .. ... - Wink I am a Russian Bot |
Posted By: brandon190
Date Posted: 16 Jan 2019 at 11:37am
| "long time listener, first time caller"Sorry to butt in but I have an opinion. Love the forum but this is the first time I posted BC I have a little experience with this. Dig the 190xt, got two. dad bought a 8070 in the 90's W 21XX . Modern cab, great layout. Now, avert all who do not want to be offended. Ran hot, and not in the red, but boiling over. Wouldn't start on a block heater if It got around freezing. Had 170hp @ 2300rpm, wouldn't pull itself up a hill under 1900. Rebuilt pump, new injectors. Resleeved. New belts, water pump, boiled radiator. Had head done. Timed. Retimed. Had pump sent to a different shop. Retimed. New cam. new turbo. electric fans. advanced timing. retarded timing. Finally dad made a call, and 15k and the 8070 got I'm a 4455 Deere. Outside of diehard allis fans, I have never heard anything good about the 426. Rods are too small. Google allis 426, stay away from the allis forums and you will get your answer. Have at me guys. |
Posted By: shieldslx13
Date Posted: 16 Jan 2019 at 11:51am
| I think you are mistaking this for a JD forum. |
Posted By: shieldslx13
Date Posted: 16 Jan 2019 at 12:41pm
| Is there anyone on the forum with a phone number that I can talk to directly, with experience building these tractors? I have rebuilt more diesels than I can count, all successfully. I'm not being ungrateful in anyway but by overheat I mean boiling over, and a clean air filter and radiator was something that was done right off the bat. I can make my 6.5 diesel pull with a cummins, and I cant seem to make these work. A ph # would be beneficial. |
Posted By: Ron(AB)
Date Posted: 16 Jan 2019 at 1:27pm
|
Shieldsix13, What about the oil cooler? Did you clean it out on the overheating tractors? I've had the experience of cleaning it and making a difference cooling a tractor. We really would like to help. You can tell by how many people have responded and viewed the post. I have (4) 426 engines on my farm. Some are better than others, typically the lower the hours the better they are. But there is mods like putting higher compression pistons and different piston rings with less end gap to improve starting. There must be a solution because not all tractors/engines have the problem. |
Posted By: Tbone95
Date Posted: 16 Jan 2019 at 2:04pm
Probably should have just kept listening.
|
Posted By: Lonn
Date Posted: 16 Jan 2019 at 2:17pm
|
No kidding! ------------- -- --- .... .- -- -- .- -.. / .-- .- ... / .- / -- ..- .-. -.. . .-. .. -. --. / -.-. .... .. .-.. -.. / .-. .- .--. .. ... - Wink I am a Russian Bot |
Posted By: SteveM C/IL
Date Posted: 16 Jan 2019 at 3:07pm
Calvin,you got me wondering...have you got the fast 4 gear? Is 6th the same in all 220's? Mine is set @170 & torques 210 and I don't believe I could pull 24ft in 6th with it in the ground. My old Wil-Rich 24ft was a load in 5th at 3in depth. |
Posted By: AllisFreak MN
Date Posted: 16 Jan 2019 at 3:39pm
|
I just picked up a 1975 7040 last year and love it so far. Now all this 426 talk has me a little concerned. It has unknown hours but runs cool and smokes very little. ------------- '49 A-C WD, '51 A-C WD, '63 A-C D17 Series III, 1968 A-C One-Seventy, '82 A-C 6060, '75 A-C 7040, A-C #3 sickle mower, 2 A-C 701 wagons, '78 Gleaner M2 |
Posted By: CrestonM
Date Posted: 16 Jan 2019 at 4:36pm
|
I just got my first diesel this year, and it's a 301 non-turbo, so I'm still pretty new to the diesel world. I've combined with an L3 (426 engine) putting out 158 (-ish) horsepower, and it runs great, but...it's only got 1,400 hours on it. I've always looked at the 426 as a great engine, as long as they're not turned up too much like on the early 7080s and Gleaner N6. Is there truth to the rods being weak and undersized? I did a quick search online and found this on an IH website, " If you pull a rod out of the AC you will find a straight cut rod cap as opposed to the IH 400 series and most other inline diesels with the angle cut cap. AC did this and had to sacrifice rod diameter and bolt size to pass the rod through the bore. The angle rod/cap can be much larger diameter and pass through the same sleeve" |
Posted By: tornado8070
Date Posted: 16 Jan 2019 at 5:10pm
The difference between a 6 row and 7 row recore was roughly $150 last summer when I had my 8070 recored. Anyone be not willing to do this shouldn’t be pissin n moaning a tractor not staying cool. There are many other factors need to be considered that may also cause tractors to run warm. But for what I do custom baling on hot summer days the extra $150 is money well spent in demanding environments. Dr Allis we have been round about this before. I don’t understand why you are so against a 7 row of tubes....imo back in the day AC should have had these kids Installled from new. Back in the 80’s when these were new it surly wouldn’t have added more than $75 cost to build an 8070. I I sure as heck wouldn’t have been out buying a tractor strictly by radiator compacity. Ever AC tractor I’ve ever bought was in need of recore. This tells me they may have been undersized from new. ------------- 09’ DT205B, 08’ DT220A, 83' 8070 MFWD, 83’ 8070 85’ 8050 MFWD, 83' 8030, 82' 8010, 85’ 6080 MFWD, 84’ 6080, 79' 7020, 85' M3 RWD, 85' 920 diesel,AC C-50 forklift. |
Posted By: Calvin Schmidt
Date Posted: 16 Jan 2019 at 8:00pm
|
SteveM I don't think my 220 has the fast fourth. It's a real early one serial 1052. ------------- Nothing is impossible if it is properly financed |
Posted By: SteveM C/IL
Date Posted: 16 Jan 2019 at 8:17pm
| I think mines a 70 model. Don't remember ser# and it's up the road. |
Posted By: Mikez
Date Posted: 16 Jan 2019 at 11:06pm
| Welcome to the forum to both of you. Brandon what part of ny are you from |
Posted By: Lonn
Date Posted: 17 Jan 2019 at 7:34am
------------- -- --- .... .- -- -- .- -.. / .-- .- ... / .- / -- ..- .-. -.. . .-. .. -. --. / -.-. .... .. .-.. -.. / .-. .- .--. .. ... - Wink I am a Russian Bot |
Posted By: brandon190
Date Posted: 17 Jan 2019 at 7:49am
|
Right outside Corning |
Posted By: Mikez
Date Posted: 17 Jan 2019 at 8:12am
| Oh ok we're near Albany |
Posted By: brandon190
Date Posted: 17 Jan 2019 at 8:27am
| Yah that's about 3.5 hors from me |
Posted By: shieldslx13
Date Posted: 03 Apr 2019 at 8:30am
| UPDATE: Its been a long time, but I thought you might want an update...I received a call from my brother yesterday and gave me an update on the 7080 that together we put an HX35 (brand new one) on about a month ago. His words were "today I drove a turbocharged Allis 426 for the first time". He was so excited. Before this I kid you not, If it was below 2000 rpm it would not pull itself up a hill. And it has had 2 new turbo's on it (factory). Before we did this he said if it got no better he was going to sell and just go get an IH. For history, we have a 436 in an IH combine that will sing at 2700 rpm, start, and has GOBBS of power. Also due to not dumping loads of fuel without burning it, his EGT's were about 400 degrees cooler so it just sat on the thermostat the whole time. I know everyone is going to say the previous factory turbos were bad, but I asure you they were not. He said at 1600 rpm he could walk up a hill with 14lbs of boost!!!!! No black smoke. I believe the 7060 and 220 will be getting similar turbos. Also, I recently purchase a 4.8l 2000 Silverado with a 5 speed, 246k miles and changed the oil after 3k and it looks like it came out of the jug. (just gotta brag to someone who can appreciate old equipment that runs good, harder than you think!) |
Posted By: Ron(AB)
Date Posted: 03 Apr 2019 at 1:14pm
|
Excellent! Did it bolt right up without any mods? Pic? Keep us informed on the 7060 & 220 when they get the update. You may be starting a new trend! |
Posted By: shieldslx13
Date Posted: 03 Apr 2019 at 1:53pm
| Took a bit of modifying, but worth it. It's like a different tractor. At 2550 it is a bit stronger, but its got 80 percent more power at 1600 |
Posted By: shieldslx13
Date Posted: 03 Apr 2019 at 1:54pm
| And Ill try to get some pics from my brother but I'll definitely get them next time I go to the farm. |
Posted By: oldways
Date Posted: 03 Apr 2019 at 8:00pm
|
This has certainly been one of the most entertaining threads I've read on here ! What part of KY are you in? ------------- 1 Corinthians 1:18 1969-190xt-III. 1966 190xt gas. 1966 190xt Cab. 1948-G. 1937-WC unstyled. 1950-B. 1951-CA. 1966-D17-IV |
Posted By: orangeman69
Date Posted: 03 Apr 2019 at 8:31pm
|
we have a d21 series 2, a 210 and 7060,no troubles whatsoever with running hot,just commonsense maintenance and also we put 160 degree thermostats in.. made a big difference.. ------------- d17,d17nfpuller,d-17IVdiesel,d19gas,d19diesel nf,d21seriesII,180,190xtseries III,200,210,7020,7060,7080w/8.3cummins,8070fwa w/8.3cummins,8550 185 w/322 original hrs. |
Posted By: Lonn
Date Posted: 04 Apr 2019 at 6:50am
|
Didn't read every reply but did you get advise from someone on putting on the HX35 turbo? Meaning, was this something someone else had experience with? My 7050 has never overheated since I've owned it but my brother's 7030 would. It had two scored sleeves/pistons though and after an overhaul and a rodded radiator it has been zero trouble. My L2 with a 426 has never had a heating issue either. Anyhow the HX35 turbo sounds like an interesting update to the 7080. ------------- -- --- .... .- -- -- .- -.. / .-- .- ... / .- / -- ..- .-. -.. . .-. .. -. --. / -.-. .... .. .-.. -.. / .-. .- .--. .. ... - Wink I am a Russian Bot |
Posted By: Tbone95
Date Posted: 04 Apr 2019 at 7:30am
If you have an engine that's running hotter and hotter the longer/harder it's being used, what difference does opening up the thermostat earlier make? That doesn't make sense to me. My 7045 ran hot, but was a bad radiator. Had it recored, and when recored had the extra row built in. Works great now. Personally, I think the whole foam thing is kind of retarded. I mean it is very critical for functional cooling, just the concept and maintenance of it is retarded. One of those "personality of the machine" things I guess, and accept.
|
Posted By: shieldslx13
Date Posted: 05 Apr 2019 at 12:07pm
| I'm in Georgetown Ky, But the farm is in Lancaster ky. th HX35 was originally intended for a 6.5 GM(no laughing please) to go in a 2 ton Chevy that had a 366. Projects like that had to be shelved after our Dad died. I'm going to get one for the 220 but I'm worried its a little too big. I know everyone keeps saying its a maintenance problem but we have as follows; 7080, 7060, 220, 190XT, 200, 1950T, 7000 AC (that's gotta be making 130HP, it will handle the 220 any day of the week) G900MM, 1355 Oliver(actually 585 Moline with DI instead of the old Lanova system), 7600 Ford, 5000 Ford, 3000 Ford, 8N, IH140, two 1466 IH Combines, WD45, (on top of my brothers 24 valve and common rail trucks). All of these run tip top. I'm not trying to bad mouth the 426, but the 301 is one of the finest running Diesels ever created. The AC 426's were the only ones that consistently ran hot, with no power down low. The HX35 was a game changer for the 7080, and I'm hoping it will have the same effect on the others. For the starting problem, when I talked to Bob King (I think it was him) he told me he never met an Allis that would start without Starting fluid when its cold. |
Posted By: injpumpEd
Date Posted: 05 Apr 2019 at 4:07pm
|
There's definitely something not right with your 426, and the Holset is just band aid fixing the issue, which is fine, as long as it performs. I wonder if the exhaust manifold gaskets are on backwards? Another great turbo for replacing others is the H1C originally intended for 5.9L Cummins in tractors such as White 120/140, 125/145, and various Maxxums. It would be a bit small for a 426 in a 7080 I think. A really great turbo, but expensive, is the S200 supercore series. Finally the turbo companies are feeding the need for smaller turbos. Impressive lineup of tractors too by the way! ------------- 210 "too hot to farm" puller, part of the "insane pumpkin posse". Owner of Guenther Heritage Diesel, specializing in fuel injection systems on heritage era tractors. stock rebuilds to all out pullers! |
Posted By: CALEBnOK
Date Posted: 05 Apr 2019 at 4:20pm
|
Our D21 35 years ago made 150hp 200rpm under factory rated rpm. We've run every brand under they sun and never had a complaint in the hp department with allis. |
Posted By: DrAllis
Date Posted: 05 Apr 2019 at 5:12pm
| Yeah, well I'm just waiting for the first sunny 90 degree day working the snot out of it to hear how the new turbo and coolant temps are doing. Nowhere in all your posts did you ever say how much boost this tractor would produce when under load. I'm beginning to think you had (or still have) a leaking intercooler gasket to the cylinder head or a (now replaced) rubber hose on the crossover tube. They do fail and they still run....just not as good as they should run. That would explain lazy slower RPM performance and would contribute to the heating problem. The newer and more modern/efficient turbo is masking the air leak because it moves more air. |
Posted By: Jordan(OH)
Date Posted: 06 Apr 2019 at 8:03am
|
You have one sick 220 if a 130hp 7000 will "handle" it. Btw, a 220 is rated at 136. |
Posted By: shieldslx13
Date Posted: 06 Apr 2019 at 11:07am
| I am fully aware a 220 is 136, just making a point of how hot the 7000 is. The previous boost #'s were 14-16 2550 under full load. 8-9 at 1600. Now it's 14 at 1600 and 18-20 at 2550. I appriciate all the feedback guys. I've built quite a few engines. I've already replaced all gaskets more than onnce. Also coated the intake with starting fluid trying to find a leak. |
Posted By: injpumpEd
Date Posted: 06 Apr 2019 at 11:13am
|
this one could be one of the odd ones that has cam gear slipped of something odd like that. Trust us all when we say, that isn't normal for a 426 to act like that lol! That must be one hot 7000 lol! ------------- 210 "too hot to farm" puller, part of the "insane pumpkin posse". Owner of Guenther Heritage Diesel, specializing in fuel injection systems on heritage era tractors. stock rebuilds to all out pullers! |
Posted By: shieldslx13
Date Posted: 09 Apr 2019 at 7:26pm
 
|
Posted By: shieldslx13
Date Posted: 09 Apr 2019 at 7:28pm
| Finally got rid of the garden hose that was running to the ic |
Posted By: shieldslx13
Date Posted: 09 Apr 2019 at 9:38pm
 Old vs new intake crossover |
Posted By: shieldslx13
Date Posted: 10 Apr 2019 at 8:00am
| My 220 will be getting the same setup and a front mount air/air intercooler |