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are 7080s worth salvaging?

Printed From: Unofficial Allis
Category: Allis Chalmers
Forum Name: Farm Equipment
Forum Description: everything about Allis-Chalmers farm equipment
URL: https://www.allischalmers.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=156696
Printed Date: 07 Sep 2025 at 12:02am
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Topic: are 7080s worth salvaging?
Posted By: cowkicker
Subject: are 7080s worth salvaging?
Date Posted: 26 Dec 2018 at 6:35pm
A friend has a nice looking black belly 7080 with a thrown rod at his shop.  Owner does not want to spend the money to repair it and he asked me if I would be interested in buying  it at a salvage price.  Is there enough interest in 7080 parts out  that I should try to buy it and part it out? Rear tires 60-70%, front 14L-16.1, one new, one at 30%, front and rear weights, stadium light, mirrors, ect. I was wondering if there are enough scrapped 7080s out there that parts would be hard to get rid of! What do you think?



Replies:
Posted By: EPALLIS
Date Posted: 26 Dec 2018 at 7:11pm
Replace the rod and put her to work and send us all a pic!


Posted By: victoryallis
Date Posted: 26 Dec 2018 at 7:26pm
If it’s as nice as you claim sell her as is.   Someone will buy her.

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8030 and 8050MFWD, 7580, 3 6080's, 160, 7060, 175, heirloom D17, Deere 8760


Posted By: HD6GTOM
Date Posted: 26 Dec 2018 at 7:32pm
Don't scrap it, if you have a use for it, use it.


Posted By: Dan Hauter
Date Posted: 26 Dec 2018 at 7:41pm
Should be parts available to rebuild the engine or replace it if the block is shot.  Repair her & put her back to work.  Please don't part her out.


Posted By: Gary Burnett
Date Posted: 27 Dec 2018 at 1:45am
To answer your original question most of the time it takes awhile to sell off parts especially the heavy stuff that can't be easily shipped.If there are a lot of similar tractors being run in your area then the parts would probably sell in my area I don't know of any of those tractors being run so I could probably never sell most parts off of it.


Posted By: Lonn
Date Posted: 27 Dec 2018 at 6:07am
Unless you are a scap yard known for selling parts and have a lot of inventory you will be disappointed trying to sell parts. There are plenty of guys here that have tried and ended up dragging most of the parts to scrap from what I have observed. There are plenty of engines available out there to bring back a nice looking 7080. I have a rebuilt 670 HI that has been re-tuned to the lower rpm, sitting in my shop just waiting for a nice tractor to use it in. I may and probably will use it in a 7050 that is sitting here. Too bad that 7080 isn't close to me because that's what I would rather go for. Few tractors back in it's day had as heavily built power train as a 7080.


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Wink
I am a Russian Bot


Posted By: Unit3
Date Posted: 27 Dec 2018 at 8:32am
YES

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2-8070FWA PS/8050PS/7080/7045PS/200/D15-II/2-WD45/WD/3-WC/UC/C


Posted By: FREEDGUY
Date Posted: 27 Dec 2018 at 7:39pm
Unit 3, I am unfamiliar with grain carts- how many bushels are in that cart to make its tires squat like that ?? AWESOME looking setup BTW!!


Posted By: old farmer
Date Posted: 27 Dec 2018 at 8:17pm
Numbers on the cart says it is in the 800bu range.


Posted By: Musketeer
Date Posted: 28 Dec 2018 at 7:17am
PM sent


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B112
D19
185
6080 fwa
8030
G


Posted By: AC7060IL
Date Posted: 28 Dec 2018 at 8:01am
Love those AC 7080s! One look at their exhaust from a distance & you know it. Unit3, Great picture of your grain cart & 7080. Thanks for sharing.


Posted By: Mike Kroupa
Date Posted: 28 Dec 2018 at 8:46pm
Love the Mexican hat duals! Mine has the long axles and regular wheels on power shift rims.


Posted By: fastallis
Date Posted: 30 Dec 2018 at 6:27am
Just curious, how much does your friend think it will cost to fix it?


Posted By: Ryan T
Date Posted: 30 Dec 2018 at 9:58am
I’d be interested in what he wants for it the way it sets. And were is it at. I have to figure fuel prices in when I’m dragging a lowboy around. Thanks Ryan


Posted By: FREEDGUY
Date Posted: 30 Dec 2018 at 4:35pm
After seeing the pic of the "cart" on the 7080, how does the drawbar not snap? Is the cart pretty well balanced on it's axle ?


Posted By: Unit3
Date Posted: 30 Dec 2018 at 11:07pm
Years ago we had a 15' Woods batwing mower. We used it for a stack cutter. It had a short PTO and we needed to shorten a draw bar so we could use it. I took a draw bar and added a hole in the middle. I just put this old draw bar under the 7080. That is all I did. It has held it up with no troubles yet. Yet?.?.?.

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2-8070FWA PS/8050PS/7080/7045PS/200/D15-II/2-WD45/WD/3-WC/UC/C


Posted By: DougG
Date Posted: 31 Dec 2018 at 7:24am
Does the high rated rpm cause this much rod failure in these engines? You wouldve thought AC wouldve changed something to solve this, or were they not maintained right?


Posted By: SteveM C/IL
Date Posted: 31 Dec 2018 at 10:39am
Originally posted by DougG DougG wrote:

Does the high rated rpm cause this much rod failure in these engines? You wouldve thought AC wouldve changed something to solve this, or were they not maintained right?
Would be nice to hear from some authority. I have heard that smooth rod cap mating allowed cap movement at the high rpm damaging inserts. Sounds kinda logical? They(all 426's) have a poor designed oiling system in that if filters get too dirty internal reliefs open and send unfiltered oil to engine causing bearing failure.Have also been told that large volume oil pumps at high rpm have torn paper out of filters and sent to galley. Number 5 is fed by main galley closest to filters.Told that filter media been found plugging/restricting that hole.Told that #5 is usually the rod that's out. I don't know how much truth in all this.Just what I've been told. Would take someone like MACK or Doc to confirm. Was told that as HP increased,they kept upping oil pump size.


Posted By: DougG
Date Posted: 31 Dec 2018 at 12:19pm
Hhhhhmmmmmm thanks Steve that's interesting info!


Posted By: SteveM C/IL
Date Posted: 31 Dec 2018 at 2:27pm
...to add to that,those were kinda dirty burning engines and the all probably got some extra fuel adding to the "load" and I'm thinking the stated oil change interval was 150hrs. You throw that all together and there may have been many running dirty filters?


Posted By: bigal121892
Date Posted: 31 Dec 2018 at 3:31pm
On our farm, the standard operating procedure for the 7080’s, and 7580 was this. At approximately 3,000 hours, the oil pan was dropped, and the rod bearings checked. If the rod bearIngs looked ok, then new inserts were put in. The mains were also plastguaged at that time as well. A new dampener would be installed as well. If unusual wear was found, the engine was overhauled. Our theory was that the rod bearings would wear, and allow the bearing journal to hammer on the crankshaft until it broke. I think through the years we had 5 or 6 7080’s, and the only one to break the crankshaft was the first one, a 1975 model. After starting this procedure, no more problems.


Posted By: DougG
Date Posted: 31 Dec 2018 at 4:21pm
Rods hammering on the crank isn't good at all


Posted By: GM Guy
Date Posted: 06 Jan 2019 at 11:33pm
Unless you are a well known parts yard that ships daily, IMO doing a single partout is a waste of time. Lots of them already parted out, and if this one is nice, it would be worthwhile fixing. There is a 670HI, 8.3L, or 685I somewhere that needs the grace the framerails of that beast.

If its not tore apart, have him put it on auctiontime and let all the dreamers battle it out, he might be pleasantly surprised.


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Gleaner: the properly engineered and built combine.

If you need parts for your Gleaner, we are parting out A's through L2's, so we may be able to help.



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