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Repairing ferds today

Printed From: Unofficial Allis
Category: Other Topics
Forum Name: Shops, Barns, Varmints, and Trucks
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URL: https://www.allischalmers.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=156180
Printed Date: 28 Apr 2024 at 8:39pm
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Topic: Repairing ferds today
Posted By: HD6GTOM
Subject: Repairing ferds today
Date Posted: 05 Dec 2018 at 7:02pm
Grandson calls me last night. 2010 ferd fusion won't start in the highschool parking lot. 40 mile drive one way, starter is shot. Ordered a starter last night, over $200.00 for a rebuilt unit. Went back this AM with starter, gotta remove a pile of stuff just to see the starter. Got everything off but the back bolt. Found out ya gotta drop the back of the motor 2-3" to get to the back bolt. Can't drag it to the shop, tranny won't stand it. Now Gotta call the tow truck, $100.00 to haul the darn thing to the shop, And that was a back haul for the roll back driver. Boys at the shop outta get to it tomorrow or the next day. I no sooner get home and daughter in law calls again, says the 2010 f150 is now having problems. At least its at her house. Back I went, unhooked the battery so it won't burn up. Probably be another $100.00 haul bill. Son is in Afganastan. I don't mind helping him, but gosh darn it, I told him not to buy these 2 units. I did talk to son today so he is aware of the car being broke, I have no idea about this darn pickup. Tony the shop forman is a ferd fanatic, he'll figure it out. Sure cuts into my nap time though



Replies:
Posted By: jaybmiller
Date Posted: 05 Dec 2018 at 7:27pm
friend has an Escape..died..needs alternator.. that's a 3 hour ORDEAL UNDER the car...probably a $200 alternator, $300 shop time...told him to scrap the car as it ain't worth $500.
$100 for the 40 mile tow is CHEAP ! In town here they get $100.
I found out most 'yard tree' and some 'pro' mechanics do NOT reinstall the 3rd bolt on Ford starters as it's a real PITA to do,though IF you have a 3' extension, U-jointy thing and glue the bolt on it can be done !
It ain't just Fords of course ..all have problems...
Wife's 99 CRV, ONE owner, her, doors won't lock cause the 25 wire cable in the driver's door is 1/2" too short ! The 'solution' ? REMOVE the door, cut and splice 2" of wire to ALL 25 wires,heatshink, reattach door. Maybe the 'contractor' will do that as hid daughter's getting the car next year. Maybe AFTER he fixes the leaky exhuast he installed. Maybe AFTER the garage roof gets done ??
Kinda sad I can get that into any message !
Jay


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3 D-14s,A-C forklift, B-112
Kubota BX23S lil' TOOT( The Other Orange Tractor)

Never burn your bridges, unless you can walk on water


Posted By: SteveMaskey(MO)
Date Posted: 05 Dec 2018 at 8:16pm
Jaybmiller, I was told back around 1970 that a good ferd mechanic never installs the back bolt on their 3 bolt starters


Posted By: desertjoe
Date Posted: 06 Dec 2018 at 9:24am
 
  The starter on my 2006 HHR is same way. I had to use three 6" extensions plus a wobble joint to remove the one next to the block,,,!! Lots and lots of GM cussin went on,,,and,,,and,,I done the next guy a huge favor and threw thet bolt in my bolt bin!!!
  For years and years, the Chevy V8 starters were held on with only 2 bolts and now the little old 4 cylinders gotta have 3 bolts,,,?? Not at this mechanic's shop.!! PFFTTtttt


Posted By: chaskaduo
Date Posted: 06 Dec 2018 at 9:45am
HD and Jayb you two sure have been having your share? What's you guys been doing??? Wink

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1938 B, 79 Dynamark 11/36 6spd, 95 Weed-Eater 16hp, 2010 Bolens 14hp


Posted By: Ted J
Date Posted: 06 Dec 2018 at 10:54am
They done pizzed off the big Guy upstairs I think.
Oh,,,,,,,,,,,and as Shameless would say,,,,,,,,,,,they gots' Ferds....


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"Allis-Express"
19?? WC / 1941 C / 1952 CA / 1956 WD45 / 1957 WD45 / 1958 D-17


Posted By: chaskaduo
Date Posted: 06 Dec 2018 at 11:27am
But how did they pizz off the big guy as I do not want to repeat it? Wink

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1938 B, 79 Dynamark 11/36 6spd, 95 Weed-Eater 16hp, 2010 Bolens 14hp


Posted By: Tbone95
Date Posted: 06 Dec 2018 at 11:34am
Well chas, as they say, the lord works in mysterious ways!


Posted By: fixer1958
Date Posted: 06 Dec 2018 at 6:37pm
I hate it when it interferes with nap time. Everyone else knows it too.



Posted By: HD6GTOM
Date Posted: 06 Dec 2018 at 7:29pm
This dad ratted starter only has 2 bolts holding it on. There is no way I can find to get to this back bolt. Boys at the car dealership I used to work for are gonna drop the motor and install this starter. They Should have it done by the weekend. $100.00 tow bill was a back haul for the tow truck driver or it would have been a lot more.


Posted By: shameless dude
Date Posted: 07 Dec 2018 at 9:34am
I don't need to say nuthin! (poke,poke)


Posted By: fixer1958
Date Posted: 07 Dec 2018 at 9:57am
I just looked up the starter on a 2010 Ford Fusion. 4 different engine options. 2 V6's, 2- 4 cyl's. On any of them it has 2 bolts and the labor guide calls for less than an hour on any of them.
Why would you have to drop the engine?

Labor guides can be deceiving especially on a Ferd but still. If it call for less than an hour it should practically fall on its own after you get the BS out of the way.




Posted By: Ted J
Date Posted: 07 Dec 2018 at 8:31pm
Originally posted by chaskaduo chaskaduo wrote:

But how did they pizz off the big guy as I do not want to repeat it? Wink
They built Ferds and then they put that 3rd bolt in to screw ,,,,,,,,,,,er um cheat people outta their monies and make it hard for those of us who are frugal and want to do it ourselves.....


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"Allis-Express"
19?? WC / 1941 C / 1952 CA / 1956 WD45 / 1957 WD45 / 1958 D-17


Posted By: HD6GTOM
Date Posted: 07 Dec 2018 at 9:05pm
V6 motor.    There is no way to get my hand, or the pro mechanics hand that closed up his shop for a half hour to help me, back there to get the nuts off. You gotta drop the motor down to get to that darn bolt. If you had it up on a hoist, with air guns, dropped it down, you could probably do it in an hour. You can't do it in a parking lot. Why did ferd double nut the consarned thing.


Posted By: jaybmiller
Date Posted: 08 Dec 2018 at 6:28am
OK.. EVERY manufacturer ONLY does 'stuff' that allows them to build faster. They really don't care,after all you WILL take it back to the shop for repairs and pay the price.
Seems most everyone has 4wd,4dr PUs as the family ride and since they cost 60K+, you'll pay the 1-2K to fix it right ?? Man, it's been a GREAT marketing scam....get the public to buy more than they need at a price far greater than it's worth AND keep you coming back for service...
That being said, the bodywork on my 97 F150 is done,just need to 'rockerguard' the underside of the box and I'm good to go. I've 'budgetted' 1K per year for my mechanic to 'upkeep' on the truck which is 2-3 payments on a new ride. Truck has just less than 80,000 miles on, everything works so I'm happy.
Jay


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3 D-14s,A-C forklift, B-112
Kubota BX23S lil' TOOT( The Other Orange Tractor)

Never burn your bridges, unless you can walk on water


Posted By: fixer1958
Date Posted: 08 Dec 2018 at 6:38am
I have been saying for a long time that I'm glad I don't have to take my vehicles to a shop because I couldn't afford myself.

Out shop rate is $132. Very busy all the time. It will probably go up again first of the year.


Posted By: DMiller
Date Posted: 08 Dec 2018 at 6:57am
Pretty sad these days as I was a mechanic in the 70s/80s/90s and saw shop rates ramp up from $18/hr to when I left at $65/hr wages moved from $5/hr to over $20. Flat rates schedules went from reasonable to sub zero tolerance where the mechanics could barely break even on times most time NOT making time on repairs where so many if not all TOO many left the business. Still have some great shops with good guys, still struggling along but are almost NOT making a decent living with tooling changes, special tooling requirements, all makes and models changes so often with re-training to compete eating away at tight enough margins.


$132/hr rate sounds bad as a consumer but then look from the other side as to that tooling, electronics diagnostics equipment, utilities expenses with the added Environmental charges, mechanics pay and whatever benefits are used to keep them in a shop, the tooling these poor guys HAVE to buy just to be able to access our high tech packed, mostly plastic, electronics loaded MASSIVELY varied makes and models machines and not damage them in repairing them. Sad days for the Mechanic trade.


Posted By: Ray54
Date Posted: 08 Dec 2018 at 1:05pm
Originally posted by DMiller DMiller wrote:

Pretty sad these days as I was a mechanic in the 70s/80s/90s and saw shop rates ramp up from $18/hr to when I left at $65/hr wages moved from $5/hr to over $20. Flat rates schedules went from reasonable to sub zero tolerance where the mechanics could barely break even on times most time NOT making time on repairs where so many if not all TOO many left the business. Still have some great shops with good guys, still struggling along but are almost NOT making a decent living with tooling changes, special tooling requirements, all makes and models changes so often with re-training to compete eating away at tight enough margins.


$132/hr rate sounds bad as a consumer but then look from the other side as to that tooling, electronics diagnostics equipment, utilities expenses with the added Environmental charges, mechanics pay and whatever benefits are used to keep them in a shop, the tooling these poor guys HAVE to buy just to be able to access our high tech packed, mostly plastic, electronics loaded MASSIVELY varied makes and models machines and not damage them in repairing them. Sad days for the Mechanic trade.

Everything you said is so true. I have gotten to using 2 different shops side by side,both of them very good with in there specialty. I just pay them and try not to think about how high it is cause I am sure I cannot get it cheaper anywhere else and not have them getting to me some other way. But I just looked $102 hour.


Posted By: fixer1958
Date Posted: 08 Dec 2018 at 5:32pm
The shop labor rate is not out of line for the area. Actually cheaper than a few other shops, dealer or otherwise.

Got one really sharp young guy I work with that I am trying to help get a handle on stuff. He's doing really well. Went to school for this and is about 40k in hock in student loans.
Cost him $650 a month to work there....tool bills, education etc.
He is starting to see money in the black now.




Posted By: jaybmiller
Date Posted: 08 Dec 2018 at 6:28pm
$132 USD per hr  is $175 Canucks, here north of the 49th ! That's waay too much . speclayy iwhen they replace 4 things to fix a problem AND charge for the 3 GOOD things that didn't need replacing!  Avg here is tad over $100 Cdn. 100 I'll pay as I can't easily crawl or see  stuff that needs to be done but if it was 175, well, I'd be buy the 85 ElCamino next door and drive that. CHEAP and EASY to fix.
Yes, I understand the education and tools and  that but I never got more than $20/hr design/build/fix fancy microcomputer energy control systems or other 'high tech' gizmos. Heck I used to make $60 hr plowing snow in 1976....

Jay


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3 D-14s,A-C forklift, B-112
Kubota BX23S lil' TOOT( The Other Orange Tractor)

Never burn your bridges, unless you can walk on water


Posted By: desertjoe
Date Posted: 08 Dec 2018 at 8:17pm
 The flat rate in this area just went to $162/hr,,,,yep,,,,$162 bucks an hour,,,,,,!!  BUT,,,what this does for the customer is you KNOW up front how much the repair is gonna cost you as if you ask the dealer HOW MUCH,,, the dealer can tell you how many hours the technician can flag for the repair,,,and that's all. A reputable dealer will not allow a repairman to keep throwing parts at a job til he finally gets it running. If the technician can't get it done within this flat rate,,it's on him. With the HI-Tech computors now in the cars,,they can anylize the problem to a tee.


Posted By: HD6GTOM
Date Posted: 09 Dec 2018 at 12:23am
This is at the car dealership I used to work for. They have been known to forget to charge me for labor. I seriously doubt they will forget to this time, since the dam motor has to come down.



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