|
We receive a lot of calls on Auto Header Height issues on F3 - R series using the 3 springs switch era . To the last caller/ hope this helps as a diagnostic guide. 1. Make sure brass rod on header switch is touching all 3 springs when header is up and bending them all at least 1/4" forward. When all the way down the springs would be bent at least 1/4" rearward by the brass rod. Make sure the rods and springs are not corroded and are capable of conducting current. Check for complete movement of sensor rod and fingers that rotate the control rod. These are the mechanical checks.
2. Check for blown fuse on AHHC. Check for Voltage at the three springs on header rocker switch. Key on, engine NOT running, AHH switch on MED , both clutches ON, click the down button on header height .
Connect test light ground to header and touch probe to middle spring. IF no current go to connector plug in for header. IF no current go to switch in cab and check for power to three position switch from orange wire. Correct any problems to get current to three springs. Three positions on the rotary dial sends
power to one of the individual springs. However remember
IF the springs are all touching the brass bar on the plastic
switch it will send power to all three springs ...Check for individual
spring current while the switch is in the dead zone - neither
front or rear brass bar touching any spring.
3. Current should now be present at the plug in for the header. The red wire has to have voltage to LOWER the header; there must be a jumper on the combine header harness to make BOTH header harness red wires receive voltage - one red wire hot will not lower the header.
Check at the 4 pin disconnect under console for voltage on the red wires for lower and rotate the switch down on the header to raise position to get current on
the BLUE wire for RAISE. Remember red lower/ blue raise (the
sky is blue it is up) 4. Finally if no auto height action is occurring, check the Red or red/yellow and in some models ORANGE wire for power to the MODULE itself. The early series had
only 2 power inlets - the later ones would only turn on from power from the orange wire from the header switch or the seat interlock module. 5. Unplug the harness going to the header - there will be
a ground - check to see it is grounded
it will be a black wire. With the engine running and the
clutches on and the lower switch pressed - jump from the
orange wire in the harness to the blue wire - the unit
should raise. Then jump voltage to the two red wires - the unit will
lower. IF the header still does not raise or lower the module is bad.
* Make sure header raises and lowers in the off position on the AHHC switch. * NOTE header will not lower if the oil pressure switch is not providing continuity when engine is running. Check for oil pressure and defective switch.
IF the header will raise very slowly the problem is in the header valve and the 71321101 o ring has deteriorated and allowed poppet to move with the seat. This requires removing the valve and overhauling with new o rings and loctite the seat in place.
IF THE UNIT HAS A SEAT INTERLOCK (later R50 series and up)
make sure the seat switch is connected
and closed. If still it will not work -this is for the auto header control-
connect the module power orange wire to the orange and white header clutch wire and this will power the
switch - three position and on some back feed the AHHC module. in mind if the seat module is totally bad - it will not let the un loader function.
if the un loader will not work - it will have to have a relay installed with an on off switch.
or just replace the $eat module 71358611 R50 71363940 R52/62 etc, Bypassing the seat interlock can cause a serious safety issue.
-------------
Me -C,U,UC,WC,WD45,190XT,TL-12,145T,HD6G,HD16,HD20
Dad- WD, D17D, D19D, RT100A, 7020, 7080,7580, 2-8550's, 2-S77, HD15
|