Dodge Caravan Brakes
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Forum Name: Shops, Barns, Varmints, and Trucks
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URL: https://www.allischalmers.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=154319
Printed Date: 20 Jun 2025 at 1:30pm
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Topic: Dodge Caravan Brakes
Posted By: FREEDGUY
Subject: Dodge Caravan Brakes
Date Posted: 26 Sep 2018 at 6:45pm
The wife runs a "11 Caravan with 155'ish K miles on it, In the past 3 weeks, the front brakes drag to the point of the rotors warping anh the wife has to pull off the road  . Our local mechanic has replaced front hoses(first week), driver side caliper(second week), and dis-abled ALB(last week). Wife came home last night and said the brakes acted up again,warped/wobbly steering. I am 98% sure it's the front driver side 'cuz I went out to look at it and couldn't begin to touch the wheel/tire it was so hot. Any thoughts on what to look into?? Thanks
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Replies:
Posted By: steve(ill)
Date Posted: 26 Sep 2018 at 6:51pm
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are the brake pads excessively worn, or just have been replaced ?? Sometimes the puck comes out too far and has trouble aligning to slide back in... sometimes when you put new pads on and push the pucks back into the housing, they pull crud in on the edges and they STICK when trying to slide in and out. ------------- Like them all, but love the "B"s. |
Posted By: FREEDGUY
Date Posted: 26 Sep 2018 at 7:01pm
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Pads and rotors were replaced 3 1/2 weeks ago, they only had (fronts) 8000 miles on them,my brother replaced them at the farm. I do recall he had a B%^&H of a time getting the drivers rotor off, said he never saw anything like it, the passenger rotor "fell" off, LOL! The mechanic replaced all 4 corners the 3 1/2 weeks ago, he did the ABS delete thinking there might be a "glitch"??
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Posted By: steve(ill)
Date Posted: 26 Sep 2018 at 7:06pm
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if it started right after the brake pads were installed, I would guess the pucks were stuck out quite and bit and they FORCED them back into the bores with corrosion / crud on the piston......... Take cylinder off the disc, push all the way inward with a C-clamp, then put a piece of 3/4 inch board between the pads and pump out till they stop... then push in and repeat... should notice they push in EASY if things are cleam. ------------- Like them all, but love the "B"s. |
Posted By: FREEDGUY
Date Posted: 26 Sep 2018 at 7:14pm
| Thanks. now I just have explain this to the mechanic that has warrantied 2 sets of pads and rotors, LOL!! Guess I need to look for a new mechanic. I despise looking for a "honest" mechanic "HERE". Thanks again !! |
Posted By: jaybmiller
Date Posted: 26 Sep 2018 at 7:49pm
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when the 'mechanic' disabled the ALB that should have been a HUGE red flag to find another mechanic....I'd also replace the right caliper, check ALL lines and the back brakes. I'm fortunate to have a real honest mechanic, have for past 30 years. nowadays you do NOT want to fool around with brakes...get them done right and proper, someone's lives are at stake ! ------------- 3 D-14s,A-C forklift, B-112 Kubota BX23S lil' TOOT( The Other Orange Tractor) Never burn your bridges, unless you can walk on water |
Posted By: Hubert (Ga)engine7
Date Posted: 26 Sep 2018 at 9:13pm
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Flush all of the brake lines, replace the calipers with GOOD grade calipers and all hardware. by now you may need new pads and rotors, then bleed the entire system. Something is causing the driver side caliper to not retract as it should. And have the ALB system reconnected! Find you wife another vehicle to drive until this one is repaired right. ------------- Just an old country boy saved by the grace of God. |
Posted By: HD6GTOM
Date Posted: 27 Sep 2018 at 12:04am
| I just replaced calipers, pads, and rotors on mine. It needed all three. A good thing about Dodge calipers-- install them, open the bleeder screw, Wait a few minutes, brake fluid will start to trickle out, tighten down the bleeder screw and you have successfully bled that caliper. Refill master cylinder and do 1 at a time till you are done. |
Posted By: Brian Jasper co. Ia
Date Posted: 27 Sep 2018 at 7:57am
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Yeah, disabling the ABS is a big NO NO. Sounds to me like you have sticky calipers. Once they've been smoking hot, I'd replace the pads and rotors then verify that the pistons can be pushed back in. If they require a lot of force open the bleeder and see if it makes a big difference. If someone messed with the push rod length in the booster it's possible they got it too long and the compensation ports in the master are not being uncovered maintaining pressure in the brake lines. Either way, I'd be focused on the calipers first. ------------- "Any man who thinks he can be happy and prosperous by letting the government take care of him better take a closer look at the American Indian." Henry Ford |
Posted By: john(MI)
Date Posted: 27 Sep 2018 at 9:43am
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If the ABS light was not on then the ABS should have been fine. I hope they were not screw out pistons and someone forced them back without turning them! I am wondering why the pistons will go out and not release. I'm thinking it could be the master cyl or the booster. Also, if the brakes got so hot the tire and wheel were to hot to touch, I think I would require your mechanic to put in new hub bearings or that will be the next job you will need to pay for! ------------- D14, D17, 5020, 612H, CASE 446 |
Posted By: Steve M Ind
Date Posted: 27 Sep 2018 at 10:24am
| Not only does the piston need to push back in fairly easy but what some people over look is the slides where the caliper bolts to the spindle needs to move freely also. |
Posted By: FREEDGUY
Date Posted: 27 Sep 2018 at 7:08pm
| To be fair, the mechanic disabled the ABS to rule out a "ABS PUMP" malfunction, not a "permanent" fix. But even I inquired about calipers and his reply was,"a caliper would NOT be an intermitent issue ?? |
Posted By: wfmurray
Date Posted: 27 Sep 2018 at 8:32pm
| I agree with the above.One other thing . Lug nuts need to be torqued. Had tires rotated at dealer and braking steering would jerck.Took it back and retorqued roters . and at 55 could turn steering loose and drag it down and steering would not move.If not torqued it can warp rotors. |