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Gleaner g rattle chain plugged

Printed From: Unofficial Allis
Category: Allis Chalmers
Forum Name: Farm Equipment
Forum Description: everything about Allis-Chalmers farm equipment
URL: https://www.allischalmers.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=154271
Printed Date: 21 Jun 2025 at 7:59pm
Software Version: Web Wiz Forums 11.10 - http://www.webwizforums.com


Topic: Gleaner g rattle chain plugged
Posted By: spencefarm
Subject: Gleaner g rattle chain plugged
Date Posted: 24 Sep 2018 at 9:59pm
So I'm trying to figure out how best top unplug the rattle chain on my g. It has corn stalks built up underneath the chain and I can't seem to get to them...



Replies:
Posted By: VAfarmboy
Date Posted: 25 Sep 2018 at 7:08am
Open the rock door and turn the cylinder sheave backwards by hand, that is the way I unplug the rattle chain on our K.











Posted By: spencefarm
Date Posted: 25 Sep 2018 at 7:19am
That hasn't seemed to help....


Posted By: Lonn
Date Posted: 25 Sep 2018 at 7:20am
You can swing the whole concave down if you have to and do like VAfarmboy says. Never had a G and I assume the concave would be heavy but maybe not. On my E it was a simple thing to swing down the concave in order to remove a slug. I bet the slip clutch gives before the raddle chain moves though.




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I am a Russian Bot


Posted By: DrAllis
Date Posted: 25 Sep 2018 at 7:39am
Raise throat all the way up and lock it. Remove the lower raddle clean-out door.


Posted By: Lonn
Date Posted: 25 Sep 2018 at 9:04am
Originally posted by DrAllis DrAllis wrote:

Raise throat all the way up and lock it. Remove the lower raddle clean-out door.
Yes, the obvious, from my computer screen is easily overlooked.


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Wink
I am a Russian Bot


Posted By: tomNE
Date Posted: 25 Sep 2018 at 2:02pm
I unplugged my 'G's' many times.  none were ez.  one time i threatened to get out the chainsaw on beans stubble, but cooler heads prevailed.   I learned alot from old custom cutters who ran G's.   couple items i remember was a faster sprocket on the feeder beater and hanging the door behind the feeder beater, instead of letting it swing.  I always found ackerman concave bars helped.    keeping slip clutches in topnotch shape.



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AC from the start of my families farming career till the end!


Posted By: Kurt WI
Date Posted: 25 Sep 2018 at 2:55pm
Do what dr allis says! I’ve done that many times. Removing the raddle door is a dusty dirty job though!

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WD D17D 170 190xt 190xtIII 200 7020


Posted By: shameless dude
Date Posted: 25 Sep 2018 at 3:43pm
I've never plugged my "G's", but have the "K" many times, I made a long 3/8's rod with a "T" handle, and a small hook on the other end, went in thru the side holes and from underneath. worked very well. if your raddle chain is getting plugged, check the tension on your rock door.


Posted By: SteveM C/IL
Date Posted: 25 Sep 2018 at 8:30pm
Something sounds out of order to cause this in the first place. Chain slack correct? Thresher beater got fast sprocket driving it since you have slow cyl speed in corn? Shouldn't be much for stalks entering machine to begin with. Had an A2 and then an F2 since 1982 and never experienced such.


Posted By: FREEDGUY
Date Posted: 25 Sep 2018 at 8:36pm
What makes a G more difficult than an F series?


Posted By: MACK
Date Posted: 25 Sep 2018 at 9:13pm
If the metal deflector above rattle is bent in a curve, it will push trash under chain. If it is bent, take it out, throw it on ground, stomp it straight, put it back in and enjoy the rest of the day.      MACK


Posted By: SteveM C/IL
Date Posted: 25 Sep 2018 at 10:33pm
Don't think my A2 had the curtain over raddle and if it did it was fabric. Someone advised me to remove curved metal curtain on F2 for corn and beans and it's along the wall somewhere.


Posted By: BillinAlberta
Date Posted: 29 Sep 2018 at 9:13am
Just wondering how you made out?
I have a G as well but just thrash wheat oats and barley oh and canola.
Plugging the raddle hasn't been a problem since I tightened the chain up.Took out a whole slat and link.Surprising the amount of wear and stretch.


Posted By: spencefarm
Date Posted: 29 Sep 2018 at 12:09pm
I ended up putting ratchet straps on each side and tightened them at the same time till it all came loose. I think it plugged in the first place because the separator clutch needed tightened so everything was moving too slow...


Posted By: FREEDGUY
Date Posted: 30 Sep 2018 at 5:51pm
Originally posted by spencefarm spencefarm wrote:

I ended up putting ratchet straps on each side and tightened them at the same time till it all came loose. I think it plugged in the first place because the separator clutch needed tightened so everything was moving too slow...
Please verify your engines WOT/under load RPM


Posted By: SteveM C/IL
Date Posted: 30 Sep 2018 at 10:01pm
high idle about 100 over rated gets you close.Always above a little, not equal to....hard to get good reading running through field.Even the engine tach jumps around under load because the load varies


Posted By: MACK
Date Posted: 30 Sep 2018 at 10:10pm
Set hl idle setting still with no load on motor.    MACK


Posted By: SteveM C/IL
Date Posted: 30 Sep 2018 at 10:47pm
Agree with MACK but my book give a range for high idle.You want the high number.



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