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Older diesel coolant

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Topic: Older diesel coolant

Posted By: DanD
Subject: Older diesel coolant
Date Posted: 13 Sep 2018 at 9:44pm

I want to change the coolant in our F3 combine (200 cid diesel of course). We've had it for 3 years and it's never been done and don't know how long since it was done before that. What is best to run in these older diesels? I plan to drain it then refill with water and run and then drain and refill with antifreeze. Obviously I want to use a long life heavy duty antifreeze but some have nitrite for cavitation prevention and others have different chemicals and supposedly last longer. What is the difference? Or should it just use plain old green? Is cavitation a problem in the 200 cid engine? Hopefully this doesn't turn into the posts like which engine oil is best!

Replies:

Posted By: Butch(OH)
Date Posted: 14 Sep 2018 at 4:20am

Dan, as far as I know the cca additives are one of those deals where it is sometines needed but never bad. I run it in everything with the basic green antifreeze except in new stuff that requires yellow, orange etc. Best to use the test strips instead of just dumping some in. All the required stuff is on ebay at reasonable prices. I use fleetgurd strios and Motorcraft additive because there is a lot of it for sale there. If you don't wish to fool with all that you can't go wrong with what is sold at CAT.

Posted By: Dave974
Date Posted: 14 Sep 2018 at 1:17pm

Lately I've been using Peak Fleet Charge in most of my diesel equipment. It's pre-charged with the right amount of SCAs, so no guess work involved. It's also relatively inexpensive and easy to find. I've seen it at Rural King, some Wal-Marts and most auto parts stores.

Whatever you end up using, just make sure you thoroughly flush out the existing coolant before making a change. I've heard a few horror stories from mixing different additive chemistries.

https://www.ruralking.com/fleet-charge-antifreeze" rel="nofollow - https://www.ruralking.com/fleet-charge-antifreeze

Posted By: DougS
Date Posted: 14 Sep 2018 at 2:23pm

Yellow antifreeze is supposed to be compatible with all others. Here is a short rundown. There are others if you use Google and find them:

https://www.caranddriver.com/features/top-it-up-with-green-or-orange-which-antifreeze" rel="nofollow - https://www.caranddriver.com/features/top-it-up-with-green-or-orange-which-antifreeze

It appears that good old green should work best, but be sure it has the SCAs. To be sure, I wouldn't mix colors anyway.

Posted By: Ron(AB)
Date Posted: 14 Sep 2018 at 6:01pm

If it has a coolant filter there is additives in it. They are for the older green type of antifreeze.

If you don't have a filter, use whatever you want. Just flush thoroughly before refilling.

Posted By: Brian Jasper co. Ia
Date Posted: 14 Sep 2018 at 8:34pm

If you remove all of the water, you can fill it with Evans waterless and never have to worry about it again. Evans also boils at 375 deg so it will never get hot enough to boil over. With no water there's very little pressure on the cooling system. With no water there is no more corrosion, electrolysis, or cavitation.

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"Any man who thinks he can be happy and prosperous by letting the government take care of him better take a closer look at the American Indian." Henry Ford

Posted By: SteveM C/IL
Date Posted: 15 Sep 2018 at 11:37am

Brian,where do you get the Evans Product?
Never mind,I found it.

Posted By: DanD
Date Posted: 15 Sep 2018 at 11:09pm

Thanks for the advice everyone. Changed out the antifreeze today. Drained and flushed with water. Then filled with distilled water and ran until warm. Then drained and refilled with heavy duty antifreeze from NAPA with the sca in it already. It will be much much better than it was. Also this type of antifreeze is widely available.

Posted By: clarkscreek
Date Posted: 16 Sep 2018 at 1:46pm

Evans doesn't like the style of block heaters that is used in our tractors. They recommend forced flow heater that I looked uo, that heater was $700.00, negated any benefits right there for me.