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D10 control valve

Printed From: Unofficial Allis
Category: Allis Chalmers
Forum Name: Farm Equipment
Forum Description: everything about Allis-Chalmers farm equipment
URL: https://www.allischalmers.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=152692
Printed Date: 02 Apr 2026 at 10:32am
Software Version: Web Wiz Forums 11.10 - http://www.webwizforums.com


Topic: D10 control valve
Posted By: Ranse
Subject: D10 control valve
Date Posted: 02 Aug 2018 at 8:48pm
I've been trying to fix these valves for years. The leaks have been a big problem. Now it's bypassing so bad it makes the 3pt hitch impractical to use. It won't hold anything up over a minute or two. I've been told by a couple of hydraulic shops, this is something you can't fix. Once the housing is worn, that's it. I'm not sure if that's true or not, but I don't know what to do for it. There isn't any seals inside. I'm thinking about putting an aftermarket valve on it. I hate to, because I will have to sacrifice the traction booster. I'd like to find one about the same size and appearance so I can try to make it look as authentic as possible.





This is the original valve and traction booster valve. I have a second on the tractor that is not much better.




This is the only diagram of this valve that I know of. I've seen it in several books and on line. Most of the parts are NLA. I had new end caps made because that was were my leaking problem was. Of course, that won't stop it from bypassing fluid back into the transmission. If there is anything you can do to slow it down I could probably live with it. Every tractor I have, the lift leaks down over some time, but not like this one. Thanks.



Replies:
Posted By: Charlie175
Date Posted: 03 Aug 2018 at 5:51am
Yes they are a pain and like you, no other parts/controls are like them that I have found.
Do you really need TB? If not then a replacement unit should be easy enough to do.


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Charlie

'48 B, '51 CA, '56 WD45 '61 D17, '63 D12, '65 D10 , '68 One-Ninety XTD


Posted By: allisrutledge
Date Posted: 03 Aug 2018 at 6:51am
I've been thru the same thing exactly on my D10 . It is due an overhaul this winter and I have a 2 spool open center valve I plan on putting on it. I ordered it from surplus center.

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Allis Chalmers still exist in my mind and barns


Posted By: Tracy Martin TN
Date Posted: 03 Aug 2018 at 8:50am
You could machine the valve body to a slightly larger diameter holes. Then make a new plunger to fit. Not cheap, but would cure the problem. HTH Tracy


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No greater gift than healthy grandkids!


Posted By: wfmurray
Date Posted: 03 Aug 2018 at 1:04pm
Sugestion.Mike area for o rings real good  and compare size with S A E and metric.Metric might work better.Had air compressor at work and pop off valve leaked miked and change to metric and fixed. On relief valve reseat.Took ten thousands off my B and it holds good now.


Posted By: Bobby G.
Date Posted: 06 Apr 2022 at 6:56pm
Can you ream the bore on those?


Posted By: BrianC
Date Posted: 06 Apr 2022 at 7:52pm
Can anyone suggest a repair shop, who is the best?


Posted By: PaulB
Date Posted: 06 Apr 2022 at 8:14pm
I think I have one of those valves here removed from a parted out tractor. Although it was awhile ago and I could not vouch for the condition of the valve.

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If it was fun to pull in LOW gear, I could have a John Deere.
Real pullers don't have speed limits.
If you can't make it GO... make it SHINY


Posted By: steve(ill)
Date Posted: 06 Apr 2022 at 8:18pm
the POST is 4 years old....

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Like them all, but love the "B"s.



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