AC 5020 tends to run hot
Printed From: Unofficial Allis
Category: Allis Chalmers
Forum Name: Farm Equipment
Forum Description: everything about Allis-Chalmers farm equipment
URL: https://www.allischalmers.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=152198
Printed Date: 23 Oct 2025 at 11:07pm
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Topic: AC 5020 tends to run hot
Posted By: Dr. Righteous
Subject: AC 5020 tends to run hot
Date Posted: 18 Jul 2018 at 10:02am
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I realize this must be commonly tread ground. I've flushed the radiator, replaced the cap, the radiator seems to be clear as far as air flow and water flow but it still tends to run hot after about 30 minutes of use. I'm thinking it has to be the thermostat. Unfortunately I cannot find a vendor that has them in stock. The part number I came up with is 2097520 but so far I've scored 0.0%. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks |
Replies:
Posted By: thendrix
Date Posted: 18 Jul 2018 at 10:58am
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https://www.partstree.com/parts/simplicity/compact-tractors/9523-2097185-allis-chalmers-9523-compact-diesel-tractor/thermostat-housing-group-3486i16/" rel="nofollow - https://www.partstree.com/parts/simplicity/compact-tractors/9523-2097185-allis-chalmers-9523-compact-diesel-tractor/thermostat-housing-group-3486i16/ This is for a simplicity 9523. Supposed to be the same tractor so I would guess it will fit. ------------- "Farming is a business that makes a Las Vegas craps table look like a regular paycheck" Ronald Reagan |
Posted By: thendrix
Date Posted: 18 Jul 2018 at 10:59am
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And welcome to the forum ------------- "Farming is a business that makes a Las Vegas craps table look like a regular paycheck" Ronald Reagan |
Posted By: Dick L
Date Posted: 18 Jul 2018 at 12:44pm
| I ordered one for my 9523 from ebay. I just checked and they do not have one listed today. Check Sandy Lake Implement or NAPA. |
Posted By: farmtoybuilder
Date Posted: 18 Jul 2018 at 1:31pm
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You have to keep radiator blowed out each mowing and 50-50 mix! Another option would be add an addtional cooler to it or another fan? They should have had a larger radiator in them and larger fin spacing to allow fine weed seed and such to go though them. ------------- 5 different TT-10's,5 TT-18's Terra Tigers,B-10,2 B-207's,B-110,2 B-112's,HB-112,B-210,B-212,HB212,2 Scamp's & Homilite T-10. Still hunting NICE HB-112 & anything Terra Tiger & Trailers for them. |
Posted By: DougS
Date Posted: 18 Jul 2018 at 1:31pm
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Thermostat might be the culprit, but check the timing first. It's easier to do. |
Posted By: DiyDave
Date Posted: 18 Jul 2018 at 6:06pm
easiest thing to check is the fan belt...
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Posted By: DougG
Date Posted: 18 Jul 2018 at 6:22pm
| Why would the timing be off when it was running good before ? Those things you have to be aggressive at the bottom of the radiator, use an air nozzle and take your time at blowing them out, lots of very fine stuff gets inbetween those fins, just bought one runnin hot while mowing,, run air and water thru the radiator and its right in the comfort zone pulling hard |
Posted By: Gary Burnett
Date Posted: 18 Jul 2018 at 8:19pm
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Does it have the slide in removable screen in front of the radiator if not it needs one. |
Posted By: TedBuiskerN.IL.
Date Posted: 18 Jul 2018 at 8:51pm
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Part of the problem is the battery placement somewhat restricts the air to the radiator. ------------- Most problems can be solved with the proper application of high explosives. |
Posted By: Dr. Righteous
Date Posted: 18 Jul 2018 at 9:26pm
If you look at the link is shows Not Available.
That is the issue i'm finding |
thendrix wrote:Posted By: Dick L
Date Posted: 19 Jul 2018 at 11:33am
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I have to remove the radiator and lay it flat on saw horses to get the fins clear of dust and seeds. When I tried to wash it out on the tractor with a hose I bent the fins and made it worse. I had my radiator out to clean it about a month and half ago when I changed the fan belt. Replacing a fan belt is fun with an electric clutch. (doing it from a wheelchair) I fell with the hood on top of me trying to hook it on the front the first try. I only added this to let some know I have a diminished ability of what I once had. I still try though. |
Posted By: Dr. Righteous
Date Posted: 24 Jul 2018 at 12:34pm
I took another look at the radiator and still could not see any any dirt build up. I got the air hose out to see how much of it I can blow air through. Found out only about 1/3 of is appears to be clear. I spent about 30 minutes with air gun at about 120psi blew some deep seated debris out. I then went to brush cutting and low and behold it didn't over heat! I will have to remove it completely to clear it 100% but now I can use the tractor without fear of overheating. Must thanks for the input guys! |
Posted By: cdreb
Date Posted: 24 Jul 2018 at 2:06pm
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Using the one I have also runs warm. They use a nylon/plastic fan and it is worn on the blades. I was trying to find a replacement of if to see if it would help. CD ------------- B,C,5020,D17,(2)-190XT's,220,D21,7060, Agco LT70 |
Posted By: Adam Stratton
Date Posted: 25 Jul 2018 at 8:29am
| How can you check the timing? Ive got one that has always been nearly impossible to start and over heats when it is running. It builds up smoke when idling but clears out at more rpm. I had "back burnered" the tractor figuring it needed rebuilt injectors and maybe more but please educate me on checking the timing. Thanks! |
Posted By: DiyDave
Date Posted: 25 Jul 2018 at 5:57pm
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IIRR, most of these japanese tractors are timed by the thickness of the shims on the cartridge-style pumps... Don't ask me which way, thinner or thicker changes the timing...
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Posted By: bigal121892
Date Posted: 25 Jul 2018 at 6:41pm
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Here is what we use: http://www.nucalgon.com/products/coil-cleaners/condensers/nu-brite" rel="nofollow - http://www.nucalgon.com/products/coil-cleaners/condensers/nu-brite We buy the spray cans, get the radiator all foamed up, then use a garden hose with a spray nozzle to blow everything out. It will clean the radiator in the tractor as good as removing the radiator. Usually do it twice, the second time, with the engine at idle, to help pull the water through. Then let the tractor run at idle for 30 minutes, to get the radiator dry.
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Posted By: john(MI)
Date Posted: 25 Jul 2018 at 10:33pm
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My rad looked very good, until I had to change the water pump. You could not see light thru it. It took a couple hours and a couple cans of cleaner to get it cleaned. I had it out laying flat like was suggested earlier. I still had to wash it out with the hose at least once per mowing. I clean off the front as best as I can and then wash it form the rear where ever you can spray thru. I only use the garden hose to wash mine. ------------- D14, D17, 5020, 612H, CASE 446 |
Posted By: TimNearFortWorth
Date Posted: 26 Jul 2018 at 9:02am
| Have a buddy with a heating/cooling business and he gives me the spray cans of NU-CALGON when needed. You can clean all you want both with a soft brass brush, air and occasionally water but that NU-CALGON stuff really works to clean where it's hard to get at. Costs me a case of beer occasionally and def. worth having a can on the shelf, especially when we stayed above 105F lately. |
Posted By: TramwayGuy
Date Posted: 26 Jul 2018 at 9:19am
| My 5030 is the same way. Gotta blow out the radiator, even when I mow with the screen in place. |
Posted By: HudCo
Date Posted: 26 Jul 2018 at 11:17pm
| to far advanced will make heat fast |