Allis 180 gas - engine doesn't want to shut off...
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Forum Name: Farm Equipment
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Topic: Allis 180 gas - engine doesn't want to shut off...
Posted By: allispicker
Subject: Allis 180 gas - engine doesn't want to shut off...
Date Posted: 17 Jul 2018 at 9:36am
| My 180 gas tractor start and runs well, but the issue I'm having is that when I turn the key off, the engine acts like it wants to stop but will stay running at 100-200 rpms and I have to put it in gear and hold the brake to kill the engine. Any ideas? |
Replies:
Posted By: JC-WI
Date Posted: 17 Jul 2018 at 9:51am
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must be carbon in the engine... Cleaned your spark plugs? Maybe try setting low idle screw lower? Probably carbon on the exhaust valve. ------------- He who says there is no evil has already deceived himself The truth is the truth, sugar coated or not. Trawler II says, "Remember that." |
Posted By: DrAllis
Date Posted: 17 Jul 2018 at 10:42am
| Your engine is "dieseling" ?????????? Low idle must be at 400 RPM and you have to idle it that slow for maybe a minute before shutting the key off. |
Posted By: allispicker
Date Posted: 17 Jul 2018 at 10:55am
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What is "dieseling" and how do I fix the issue? I have never had this problem with any of my other gas tractors. I'll try some new plugs as well. Thanks.
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Posted By: jaybmiller
Date Posted: 17 Jul 2018 at 11:18am
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dieselling is when a gas engine has so much carbon buildup in the cylinders that you don't need a spark to ignite the gas/air mixture. Usually running the choke too much, over time allows the buildup to occour. Best solution is to pull the head and scrape the buildup off. ------------- 3 D-14s,A-C forklift, B-112 Kubota BX23S lil' TOOT( The Other Orange Tractor) Never burn your bridges, unless you can walk on water |
Posted By: allispicker
Date Posted: 17 Jul 2018 at 11:33am
| Thanks for the information, I'll work on pulling the head. |
Posted By: DrAllis
Date Posted: 17 Jul 2018 at 12:05pm
| Jump right in and do the worst possible scenario !! Let's pull the head before going to AC Delco 44XL spark plugs or making SURE the low idle is at 400 RPM and before we allow it to idle slow for 60 seconds before shutting off the switch and before it has maybe a better grade of gasoline ?? Yup. That's what I would definitely NOT DO is yank the head. |
Posted By: HoughMade
Date Posted: 17 Jul 2018 at 12:10pm
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Yeah, usually its a piece of carbon that gets so heated up and retains that heat so that it continues to ignite the gas after the spark is shut off. Pulling the head is the best way, certainly, but you could try any number of way to try to reduce the carbon, including something like Seafoam or even water....very carefully. [TUBE]KFtp_jmLF3k[/TUBE]
------------- 1951 B |
Posted By: im4racin
Date Posted: 17 Jul 2018 at 12:11pm
| I agree with the dr. if those don't work then put on a dyno and apply load slowly over time to burn that stuff off. don't just go to full load right away as it will detonate. another option is to mist water from a squirt bottle in the carb when running. this will cool the carbon and it will likely flake off however it could stick a chunk in a valve seat and lead to a burnt valve. |
Posted By: allispicker
Date Posted: 17 Jul 2018 at 1:02pm
@Dr. Allis - great perspective! I'll try the quick/easy/cheap fixes first 
|
Posted By: Clay
Date Posted: 17 Jul 2018 at 1:58pm
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An excellent product is to remove internal engine carbon deposits is KREEN from KANO Laboratories in Nashville, Tn. http://www.kanolabs.com/engCle.html" rel="nofollow - http://www.kanolabs.com/engCle.html I use BG products and SeaFoam but like the results from KREEN the best. KANO Labs is the maker of KROIL.
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Posted By: Lonn
Date Posted: 17 Jul 2018 at 2:20pm
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The last thing I'd do is pull the head. BTW I gotta say the good dr has a way making his point. ------------- -- --- .... .- -- -- .- -.. / .-- .- ... / .- / -- ..- .-. -.. . .-. .. -. --. / -.-. .... .. .-.. -.. / .-. .- .--. .. ... - Wink I am a Russian Bot |
Posted By: Dakota Dave
Date Posted: 17 Jul 2018 at 3:20pm
| First pull and clean the plugs. After that a Seafoam treatment. Run at fast idle mist it with Seafoam till it quits. Let it sit a hour star it and run it hard. I had a C that was very bad I added one gallon diesel in five gallons gas and mowed the yard. It ran hot the fist time I've ever seen the temp guage actually make it to operating temp and spit out lots of carbon bit from the exhaust burned a few holes in my mowing shorts. After that it ran like a dream. |
Posted By: MACK
Date Posted: 17 Jul 2018 at 9:28pm
| I would also check timing. Advanced timing can cause hi cylinder temp and burn pistons. MACk |
Posted By: PaulB
Date Posted: 18 Jul 2018 at 4:59am
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In days gone by disreputable gas stations would set the idle a bit high and mess with the timing to make cars diesel like that. Their answer to the problem was high test gas. Do a proper tune up by the book specifications and let it cool a bit at idle before turning the key off, and I’ll bet your problem goes away. ------------- If it was fun to pull in LOW gear, I could have a John Deere. Real pullers don't have speed limits. If you can't make it GO... make it SHINY |
Posted By: DougS
Date Posted: 18 Jul 2018 at 5:23am
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Back in the early days of smog control dieseling was a common problem. They even installed anti-dieseling solenoids on some cars. I believe timing was the cause. Some cars were timed to fire AFTER TDC. Firing at 0 degrees was common. |
Posted By: CALEBnOK
Date Posted: 18 Jul 2018 at 12:42pm
| Unwire the alternator and see if it still runs on |