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WD 45 steering shaft

Printed From: Unofficial Allis
Category: Allis Chalmers
Forum Name: Farm Equipment
Forum Description: everything about Allis-Chalmers farm equipment
URL: https://www.allischalmers.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=151652
Printed Date: 23 Aug 2025 at 6:13am
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Topic: WD 45 steering shaft
Posted By: Dakota Dave
Subject: WD 45 steering shaft
Date Posted: 29 Jun 2018 at 8:26am
is there an easy way to get the pins out of the steering shaft?



Replies:
Posted By: Stan IL&TN
Date Posted: 29 Jun 2018 at 8:53am
My engine was out when I did mine so it was pretty easy driving out the pin but the engine was back in place when it was time to put that pin back and it was a PITA for me so it got a bolt and locking nut instead.  I believe I had to grind down the nut to have clearance with the frame or it would hit while turning.

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1957 WD45 dad's first AC

1968 one-seventy

1956 F40 Ferguson


Posted By: fixer1958
Date Posted: 29 Jun 2018 at 9:51am
The right punch size maybe to get the roll pins out. Your language may expand.

I found a used Charlin PS unit for mine several years ago. Whole thing including the steering wheel, pump, mounting brackets, every thing. Had to get 1 over priced swivel joint. I couldn't get that thing to line up with the roll pin for anything. Said screw it and drilled it for a 1/4" grade 5 bolt. Broke a few and keep extras in the toolbox.

As far as getting out the roll pin, I'm assuming at the u-joint tucked in the side frame, you may have to take the whole fricking shaft out and wail the chit out of it to get it out.
May try heating it I suppose to break the bond. Never tried it.

It's the stupid little chit that makes you crazy.


Posted By: Sugarmaker
Date Posted: 29 Jun 2018 at 2:10pm
Dave,
 If they havent been out before, then the short answer is no. 
I have used punches from above and below to get them moving. 
Are those pins tapered slightly?? Cant remember? May go out from one side better than the other??
Some get replaced with bolts but the clearance to the oil pan lip is very tight.
Regards,
 Chris


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D17 1958 (NFE), WD45 1954 (NFE), WD 1952 (NFE), WD 1950 (WFE), Allis F-40 forklift, Allis CA, Allis D14, Ford Jubilee, Many IH Cub Cadets, 32 Ford Dump, 65 Comet.


Posted By: dallas
Date Posted: 29 Jun 2018 at 4:34pm
If you put a pipe under the knuckle so the pin will go through to the floor so the steering shaft don't bounce will make it a lot more easy


Posted By: Don(MO)
Date Posted: 30 Jun 2018 at 7:08am
If there's a roll pin in the joint just turn the shaft to point up and use a air hammer set the air down to 80 psi drive it out but if the pin is not a roll pin then it's got the rivet pin and you will find it's going to need one end of pin ground off before you start pounding it out.
If changing the u joint I pull the right frame rail if it's got the rivet pins still in the holes. 

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3 WD45's with power steering,G,D15 fork lift,D19, W-Speed Patrol, "A" Gleaner with a 330 corn head,"66" combine,roto-baler, and lots of Snap Coupler implements to make them work for their keep.



Posted By: Dakota Dave
Date Posted: 30 Jun 2018 at 8:05am
It was a solid Pin I used a 2x4 instead of a pipe. and was able to drive the pin holding the ujoint to the fwd steering shaft out. I finally gave up on getting the other one out and cut the shaft I ended up drilling it out on the drill press. I had to take off the distributor and the govener drive to get enough clearance to get a 4 lb hammer in there. The Charlynn setup came with bolts and roll pins so I've started reassembly.


Posted By: Sugarmaker
Date Posted: 30 Jun 2018 at 9:55pm
Dave Yep they can be a bugger. Sound like your well on your way to getting power steering! Very nice!
Regards,
 Chris


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D17 1958 (NFE), WD45 1954 (NFE), WD 1952 (NFE), WD 1950 (WFE), Allis F-40 forklift, Allis CA, Allis D14, Ford Jubilee, Many IH Cub Cadets, 32 Ford Dump, 65 Comet.



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