WD/WD45 Front End Swap
Printed From: Unofficial Allis
Category: Allis Chalmers
Forum Name: Farm Equipment
Forum Description: everything about Allis-Chalmers farm equipment
URL: https://www.allischalmers.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=149238
Printed Date: 27 Sep 2025 at 10:22pm
Software Version: Web Wiz Forums 11.10 - http://www.webwizforums.com
Topic: WD/WD45 Front End Swap
Posted By: JarrodACFan
Subject: WD/WD45 Front End Swap
Date Posted: 06 Apr 2018 at 11:17pm
|
I just bought a pretty nice WD wide front from a local farmer. It was repainted a few years ago, supposedly has engine problems, and has sat in a barn for probably 5 years, but that's beside the point. It has a 3 bolt wide front that I am thinking of swapping over to my WD45 and putting the narrow front from my tractor on the WD. What all is involved with swapping them? I know you take the 4 bolts out of the bolster on each side and loosen one of the frame rails. Obviously unhook the steering shaft. What other steps are there? I have heard that you have to swap the pulley on the front of the engine in order to make the hand crank work. Is that true? Thanks in advance! ------------- 1956 WD45 Narrow Front Factory Power Steering, 1953 WD Wide Front Allis Express in Muncie, IN |
Replies:
Posted By: PaulW(NE)
Date Posted: 07 Apr 2018 at 4:19am
|
Did this a few years back. Had to loosen bolts on one frame rail all the way back to rear axle as bolster was rusted pretty good to rails to get narrow front out. Slid it out and slid in wide front bolted back up and that was it. Did not change pulley as hand crank lined right up. |
Posted By: AaronSEIA
Date Posted: 07 Apr 2018 at 5:25am
|
Take the left frame rail loose. Right side has the gasket for the belt pulley to deal with. Far as I know both crank pulleys have the ears for the hand crank. Heck, my D17 does too. Its a couple hour job. Hardest part is finding a way to support the tractor while it has no front end. AaronSEIA |
Posted By: ac160
Date Posted: 07 Apr 2018 at 7:29am
|
I swapped a narrow for a 4bolt a few years ago. You don't have to swap pulleys. Watch the 4 bolts as they are easy to be rusted tight and the bolster is heavy. The front I swapped had the bolster stuck from years of dirt, dust, etc. I supported the rails with stands and had to loosen both of them all the way back. You might need to pull the bolts from the radiator as well. One each frame rail there are triangular shims. Make sure you turn them the right way when reinstalling. |
Posted By: littlemarv
Date Posted: 07 Apr 2018 at 7:59am
|
I need to take a closer look at mine then, swapped out the narrow and slid in a 3 bolt, crank hasn't worked since. ------------- The mechanic always wins. B91131, WC23065, WD89101, CA29479, B1, Early B10, HB212, 416H |
Posted By: Don(MO)
Date Posted: 07 Apr 2018 at 8:16am
|
If you have factory power steering on the WD45 don't change the pulley. this is out of the AGCO parts book. 70226624 *,** PULLEY, crankshaft (Used on tractors without adjustable front axle or single front wheel) 70226625 *, ** PULLEY, crankshaft (Used on tractors with adjustable front axle or single front wheel) 70227395 ** PULLEY, crankshaft (with 2-Belts used on all front ends with power steering) * WD ** WD45 *** W226 Up-dated. ------------- 3 WD45's with power steering,G,D15 fork lift,D19, W-Speed Patrol, "A" Gleaner with a 330 corn head,"66" combine,roto-baler, and lots of Snap Coupler implements to make them work for their keep. |
Posted By: JarrodACFan
Date Posted: 07 Apr 2018 at 6:14pm
|
Both tractors are painted up sorta nice, what's the likelihood of getting the bolts out/loose without the torch for heating purposes? I'd really rather not have to do major repainting. I was aware about taking the left frame rail off because of the belt pulley seal on the right. As far as the pulley goes, my WD45 has factory power steering, but the WD does not. By what Don says, I believe that I'll not have to change pulleys. I guess I can just look at the pulleys and see if they're similar. It's sounding like this may not be as big of a job as I originally thought, if the bolts come out. ------------- 1956 WD45 Narrow Front Factory Power Steering, 1953 WD Wide Front Allis Express in Muncie, IN |
Posted By: Michael Crowe
Date Posted: 07 Apr 2018 at 8:04pm
|
If the 8 bolts have not been loosed in a long time, take a big sledge hammer and really give each bolt 4-5 solid hits square on the head; they will come loose without twisting off. I think the center hole of the pulley is larger on the 45 due the the swivel in the starter crank. ------------- The 14th Annual Exclusive AC Swap Meet will be held in Boonville, MO, March 7-8, 2025. See the club website for details: http://www.moacclub.com/ |
Posted By: Lon(MN)
Date Posted: 08 Apr 2018 at 9:39am
|
I take the right side frame rail off, replace the pulley seal then remove the battery box and hand clutch cover, remove the hand clutch shaft and replace the seal. Mr Crowe has the right method on removing the front bolts. Also helps to use an impact tool at the low setting. Just my thoughts.
|
Posted By: Don(MO)
Date Posted: 08 Apr 2018 at 10:30am
Michael is spot on with the old hammer on the tight bolts! I change the bolts if I have to use the big hammer on them. ------------- 3 WD45's with power steering,G,D15 fork lift,D19, W-Speed Patrol, "A" Gleaner with a 330 corn head,"66" combine,roto-baler, and lots of Snap Coupler implements to make them work for their keep. |
Michael Crowe wrote:Posted By: JarrodACFan
Date Posted: 08 Apr 2018 at 6:25pm
|
OK good deal, I think I have a pretty good idea what I'll be getting into. I like the hammer on the bolt heads idea, I will give that a try. The front bolsters on both tractors probably will get new bolts whether they need it or not. Thanks guys! ------------- 1956 WD45 Narrow Front Factory Power Steering, 1953 WD Wide Front Allis Express in Muncie, IN |
Posted By: j.w.freck
Date Posted: 08 Apr 2018 at 8:32pm
| don is absolutely right,and don is a very knowlegeble individual.i have removed and replaced at least 6-7 of them.i like to get the 4 bolts loose that holds the nose steering box and then hit the inner rails with a good high pressure washer,60 years + of top soil will come roaring out.i have replaced them without removing either frame rail.just loosen all the frame bolts..... |