Hand held electric plane ?'s
Printed From: Unofficial Allis
Category: Other Topics
Forum Name: Shops, Barns, Varmints, and Trucks
Forum Description: anything you want to talk about except politics
URL: https://www.allischalmers.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=148914
Printed Date: 15 Jun 2024 at 11:15pm
Software Version: Web Wiz Forums 11.10 - http://www.webwizforums.com
Topic: Hand held electric plane ?'s
Posted By: HD6GTOM
Subject: Hand held electric plane ?'s
Date Posted: 29 Mar 2018 at 12:39am
|
Anybody ever use 1? My kid went against my advice and bought plywood that is too thick. He glued 2 - 3/4" pieces together and cut out the design for the back of his boat. We gotta trim about 3/16" off the face of that. Plywood has to slip between 2 pieces of a!uminum and actually holds his motor on the boat. We can't run it thru a regular plainer because it is 3' wide in places.
|
Replies:
Posted By: Thad in AR.
Date Posted: 29 Mar 2018 at 2:40am
|
I use one all the time. I’ve never used one for what you intend. Does the whole piece need to lose 3/16 or just around the edges? If just the edges you could run it through a table saw on edge. If you do decide to plane it be prepared to sand a bit as well.
|
Posted By: DiyDave
Date Posted: 29 Mar 2018 at 4:51am
|
I wouldn't try, cause of the cross graining of the thin layers of the plywood veneer. Best angle of attack, IMHO, would be a router. As Thad said, just do the area that is needed...
|
Posted By: Stan IL&TN
Date Posted: 29 Mar 2018 at 7:26am
You can also try a belt sander.
-------------
1957 WD45 dad's first AC
1968 one-seventy
1956 F40 Ferguson
|
Posted By: johnkc
Date Posted: 29 Mar 2018 at 8:40am
Yep, Belt sander with the coarsest grit to speed the job up a bit.
-------------
I support the development of hybrid automobiles and alternative fuels as I need DIESEL fuel for my ALLIS CHALMERS!
|
Posted By: Wayne180d
Date Posted: 29 Mar 2018 at 9:23am
|
Do you just need to bevel the edges a bit to slide in? I have used my tablesaw with the blade set at a slight angle and run it through on edge.
|
Posted By: JC-WI
Date Posted: 29 Mar 2018 at 9:24am
Belt sander, and just do the area where it has to slip into place. jmo
-------------
He who says there is no evil has already deceived himself
The truth is the truth, sugar coated or not. Trawler II says, "Remember that."
|
Posted By: Coke-in-MN
Date Posted: 29 Mar 2018 at 9:41am
3/16 it seems is a lot of sanding - as far as using a plane - no way as the grain of the plywood will splinter - so it leaves the saw or router as the way to work the plywood down to proper thickness . I getthe feeling the transom piece is not a nice straight line that fits onto table saw . yet one can also use table saw to cut that 3/16 off by laying piece flat to table and only raising blade high enough to cut to that depth .
Using the table saw and a blade or a actual dato head on it is the easiest - then finish up any smoothing with sander or sanding block
-------------
Faith isn't a jump in the dark. It is a walk in the light. Faith is not guessing; it is knowing something.
"Challenges are what make life interesting; overcoming them is what makes life meaningful."
|
Posted By: jaybmiller
Date Posted: 29 Mar 2018 at 10:07am
The best(?) or easiest(?) way is a belt sander, 60 grit paper AND setup a guide jig so you get a good straight line ! You should be able to run the right side of the sander up against the guide. Take a few practice runs to get comfortable and let the sander do it's job, don't force it(dig in to get more wood !).
85% of the time will be getting the jig setup right, sanding is the easy part.
Now IF you take it all off from one side be SURE you take it off teh CORRECT side ! Not that I've ever done it wrong.......
Jay
-------------
3 D-14s,A-C forklift, B-112
Kubota BX23S lil' TOOT( The Other Orange Tractor)
Never burn your bridges, unless you can walk on water
|
Posted By: ac fleet
Date Posted: 29 Mar 2018 at 12:49pm
Plywood would be hard to work.--IF you start taking layers off you will weaken the whole piece. ---Sanding would be bout the only way. plane would destroy the wood as would the router.--Plywood not a bit forgiving.--I would go get correct thickness and start over. --just my .00000001! thanks; ac fleet
|
Posted By: steve(ill)
Date Posted: 29 Mar 2018 at 4:33pm
set your table saw for the WIDTH of the wood you want... turn the two sheets of plywood on its side ( 1.5 inches thick ?) and set the blade to cut maybe an inch deep... push one side of the plywood thru the blade/ rip fence and trim the thickness to 1- 1/4 thick about an inch deep.... just cut the sides and bottom where it fits into the aluminum track... leave the rest of the plywood 1-1/2 inch thick.
-------------
Like them all, but love the "B"s.
|
Posted By: steve(ill)
Date Posted: 29 Mar 2018 at 4:36pm
you could also use a router with a flat end - no bearing.......... run around the edge and cut down 3/16 deep and about an inch wide all around the sides and bottom.. leave the center all 1- 1/2 thick.
-------------
Like them all, but love the "B"s.
|
Posted By: Dakota Dave
Date Posted: 30 Mar 2018 at 8:38am
|
When I did my pontoon decking I used the router and edge guide I had to remove 1/4" deep 3/8" wide for the panel to fit into the aluminum edge the rest was full thickness. the original panels I removed were do the same way. Routers work great on Plywood.
|
Posted By: DiyDave
Date Posted: 30 Mar 2018 at 6:14pm
|
Router is still the easiest way, either make an edge guide, like below, or you can make a template, and use a top bearing bit that is very short. I've taken old bearing bits, with the tips broke off, and ground them down, to use on jobs that are this kinda special...
I'd also split the difference, and take 3/32" off of each side, to center the board, in the metal frame, but that's up to you.
Making a router fence:
[TUBE]wGJTDaA55SY[/TUBE]
|
Posted By: HD6GTOM
Date Posted: 30 Mar 2018 at 9:10pm
|
He needs to take it off one side of the whole piece. It is as wide as the boat and at least 2.5' tall. I told him to go get the correct thickness and use what he has for a pattern. No way to rout it or run it thru a saw. But he is as cheap as his mom, will probably fight this for a while till he gets his head out into the daylight. What ever happens has got to happen soon, he is leaving for Afganastan soon. It does not slide down in a track, I wish it did. It actually slides between 2 pieces of aluminum.
|
Posted By: Ken(MI)
Date Posted: 31 Mar 2018 at 6:12pm
|
Find a commercial wood working shop with a vacuum router table, that's about a fifteen minute job and plywood won't faze it a bit and will cut with no splintering. Forty some years ago I worked in a Pattern/Fixture shop and we had a 3' x 6' router table with the router on an adjustable over arm, that we surfaced things too big for the planer, 3 HP 40,000 RPM router as I remember, worked like a champ. Marine plywood is very dense and will rout or plane without splintering.
|
Posted By: Ted J
Date Posted: 31 Mar 2018 at 8:30pm
Like Ken says, it will be the EASIEST but not necessarily the cheapest. BUT, it will save you LOTS of time and headaches!!! I just wish I could see where it has to go to see if there could be an easier way... I just can't understand why you need to do the whole piece? Seems to me the transom should only be the outside edge where it slides in??
Pics would help Tom....
What happened to that table saw you were gonna get??
-------------
"Allis-Express"
19?? WC / 1941 C / 1952 CA / 1956 WD45 / 1957 WD45 / 1958 D-17
|
|