Diesel engine stand/weight
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URL: https://www.allischalmers.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=148376
Printed Date: 19 Jul 2025 at 3:15pm
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Topic: Diesel engine stand/weight
Posted By: WF owner
Subject: Diesel engine stand/weight
Date Posted: 10 Mar 2018 at 8:19pm
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I am going to be rebuilding a 2800 diesel engine. I have a couple engine stands (from Harbor Freight) that work great for a 226 gas engine, but there is no way I would trust them for a 6 cylinder diesel. I have two questions: 1. What does a 301 or 426 AC engine actually weigh (complete)? 2. Does anyone use an engine stand that they would recommend for the AC diesels? I like the one (from Summit Racing) in this month's Hemmings magazine. It says 1,000 lbs. Would it be heavy enough? I like the idea of the crank to tip the engine. Here is the link: https://www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-908300ga/overview/" rel="nofollow - https://www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-908300ga/overview/
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Replies:
Posted By: Bill_MN
Date Posted: 10 Mar 2018 at 8:47pm
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I have seen a couple different stands for those really heavy engines, one bolts to the side instead of the end, and another actually has two spinners that bolt to each end to fully support engine. Do a Google search for diesel engine stand, they are more expensive but safer. If you have two engine stands, you could try putting one at each end facing each other and try to bolt up that way. I'm guessing you would have to use the timing cover bolts on the front. Or fabricate a stand from scratch with heavier steel. ------------- 1951 WD #78283, 1918 Case 28x50 Thresher #76738, Case Centennial B 2x16 Plow |
Posted By: DrAllis
Date Posted: 10 Mar 2018 at 9:07pm
| You can't begin to imagine how many have been built with a good cherry picker and a 30 or 55 gallon barrel. Remove cylinder head while still in the chassis and get it out of the way. Injection pump and oil cooler/water pump can also be removed in chassis. Oil pan and oil pump as well if you chose to. Remove engine and lay it on its left side on top of the barrel. The flywheel and backplate are open to one end. The timing cover and gears are open to the other end. Teardown and rebuild from there. Block can be propped up to level with a block of wood underneath the left side and removed for crank removal and installation. |
Posted By: HudCo
Date Posted: 10 Mar 2018 at 9:08pm
| otc # 1750A is what we are building in our shop right. we are copying one the vocational school has . i posted some pictures acouple of weeks ago when we got started on it |
Posted By: MACK
Date Posted: 10 Mar 2018 at 9:24pm
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Get one that bolts to side of block. Both ends is un handy. Hard to get centered on both ends, cannot work on front without holding front with boost, and just not handy. MACK |
Posted By: johnny
Date Posted: 10 Mar 2018 at 10:40pm
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I use the harbor freight stands and when I rebuild 6 cylinder engines I put one stand on each end of the engine. it actually works pretty good and rotating is fairly easy because each end of engine is supported. |
Posted By: HudCo
Date Posted: 11 Mar 2018 at 1:26pm
| like mack says get one that you can bolt up on the side or take time to biuld a mounting plate you wil no be sorry besides alot diesel engines need have the enigine bell housing removed for some reason like accessing a rear frost plug or cam bearing |
Posted By: Brian Jasper co. Ia
Date Posted: 11 Mar 2018 at 5:05pm
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Definitely get one that attaches to the sides. I used an automotive style stand to do a 262 and that was a lot of weight for it to handle. I would guess a complete 3500 has to be close to 2000lbs. ------------- "Any man who thinks he can be happy and prosperous by letting the government take care of him better take a closer look at the American Indian." Henry Ford |
Posted By: MACK
Date Posted: 11 Mar 2018 at 9:52pm
| The last one I built, has a air cylinder to tilt engine up, then can be rotated eight different places then be let back down or worked on while tilted up. MACK |
Posted By: LB0442
Date Posted: 11 Mar 2018 at 11:59pm
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Just did a quick craigslist search, this came up locally. Looks pretty well built. http://boise.craigslist.org/pts/d/diesel-engine-stand/6509178970.html" rel="nofollow - http://boise.craigslist.org/pts/d/diesel-engine-stand/6509178970.html   |
Posted By: DaveKamp
Date Posted: 12 Mar 2018 at 6:27am
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The biggest problems with 'typical' engine stand design, is the fact that you're holding the block in a 'cantelever' orientation- hanging out off one end, that you're trying to pivot it off that cantelever, and that the footprint on the floor is not wide enough to keep control of the weight at the desired work elevation. While automotive engines, particularly inline 4, V6 and V8 engines are fine, inline sixes have weight that's out a bit further, and diesels have a whole lot more of it, so the typical automotive engine stand I certainly would NOT use for a diesel unless it's under 2L and LIGHT. Think about any engine... consider the standard engine stand, which rotates on the crankshaft centerline. How much of that engine's weight is BELOW the centerline? You've got some crank throws, the main caps, and a tin oil pan... but above it... the whole block, the head... basically ALL the weight... center of gravity is well above the crank centerline. Dr's point about pulling the head is very good advice under ANY circumstances, but on a stand that rotates on crankshaft center, it's imperative, as when you roll the engine 90 degrees sideways, the center of gravity goes way off to one side. A full-dressed inline gas six will dump an ordinary automotive stand over right quick. This is why most diesel stands mount to the side of the block, fairly high up, and have a very wide base. ------------- Ten Amendments, Ten Commandments, and one Golden Rule solve most every problem. Citrus hand-cleaner with Pumice does the rest. |
Posted By: HudCo
Date Posted: 12 Mar 2018 at 9:08am
| this has got kind o interesting to me because this winter we have had more engines on stands than we have ever had . but if try to mount about 2to 2 1/2 " above the crank centerline will keep you pretty ballanced throught the assembly prosess |
Posted By: DougG
Date Posted: 12 Mar 2018 at 6:39pm
| Theres an OTC engine stand on Pulloff ; 6000 lb capcity for $2000 obo; 609 273 6554, don't know anything about it just seen the ad and it seems cheap |
Posted By: David Maddux
Date Posted: 13 Mar 2018 at 6:54am
| I have been doing a couple of the big 20-35 ,A, and 25-40 engines here lately and i have no stand that will handle them. Have been doing them on the floor with wood blocks propping them where i need them. Sure is unhandy. Next one may have a special stand built for them. |
Posted By: HudCo
Date Posted: 13 Mar 2018 at 9:08am
| thats where i got to. i decided i biult my last 3406 cat sized engine on blocks and or cut up peices of truck frame rail bolted on to hold it up |