B Clutch I'm Bummed!
Printed From: Unofficial Allis
Category: Allis Chalmers
Forum Name: Farm Equipment
Forum Description: everything about Allis-Chalmers farm equipment
URL: https://www.allischalmers.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=147622
Printed Date: 21 Jun 2025 at 7:30am
Software Version: Web Wiz Forums 11.10 - http://www.webwizforums.com
Topic: B Clutch I'm Bummed!
Posted By: KenBWisc
Subject: B Clutch I'm Bummed!
Date Posted: 17 Feb 2018 at 10:58am
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Had to pull the engine for a overhaul. Put it back in, started it and took of on a break-in run. Went to shift gears and it grinds like crazy like the clutch isn't disengaging. Adjusted the clutch shaft in and out with no change. Must have the clutch disk turn round. Pulled the engine and sure enough, reversed the disk so the long hub is facing towards the rear. Thinking I'm home free, started her up and no change, grinding gears. I reread the manual several times. Here is what I think I know; 1. Since there is no crank shaft bearing wick to the pilot bushing it shouldn't be causing the problem. ?? 2. Although I'm not clear about the reference about the pilot bushing being too tight, it worked before. How would it have become too tight sitting in the shop? 3. As the Service Manual states, I checked the distance of the clutch fingers from the clutch disk surface; right on at 1-13/16". 4. Do to excessive wear, I switch out the transmission main shaft and drive shaft coupler during the rebuild process. Due to the darned drive shaft coming forward from the trans main shaft I put a cotter key in the hole. 5. Trans shifts freely when engine is off. 6. Clutch release bearing is less than 1/4" from release levers. But here's the thing; the Service Manual says to adjust this with the clutch pedal rod but the Operations Manual says to do the adjustment on the release levers. Which should I do especially since I find no difference in adjusting the pedal rod? 7. I did the engine and clutch removal thing about ten years ago with no issues. What am I missing? ------------- '34 WC #629, '49 G, '49 B, '49 WD, '62 D-19, '38 All Crop 60 and still hunting! |
Replies:
Posted By: Dick L
Date Posted: 17 Feb 2018 at 11:08am
| If I was to guess I would guess you figured out how the clutch plate was supposed to go and flipped it over in assembly and your back where you were with it in backwards. Those things happen when you are not sure of yourself. More common than you might think. When I would have those thing happen to me I tend not to tell anyone. |
Posted By: KenBWisc
Date Posted: 17 Feb 2018 at 11:09am
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No, got it right this time. Check it several times! ------------- '34 WC #629, '49 G, '49 B, '49 WD, '62 D-19, '38 All Crop 60 and still hunting! |
Posted By: Rick
Date Posted: 17 Feb 2018 at 11:20am
| Possibly bent it during installation? Which would mean pulling it again... |
Posted By: wfmurray
Date Posted: 17 Feb 2018 at 11:37am
| You say you swicht out the trans main shaft.You need some drag on the front bearing to help stop driveshaft when you push in clutch.I did not know this when i did mine and i have to wait longer than normal to change gears. |
Posted By: Hubnut
Date Posted: 17 Feb 2018 at 12:10pm
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There needs to be pre-load on the main transmission shaft bearing as wfmurray says). Three of my 5 B/C tractors grind. You can test if this is the problem by starting the engine and putting it into gear (like 1st). Once in, shift to reverse. If it doesn't grind, it's the bearing pre-load and not the clutch adjustment. I assume you are not trying to change gears like a car--ie while the tractor is in motion. ------------- 1940 B "Lucy" 1941 B w/ Woods L59 "Flavia" 1942 B w/ finish mower "Dick" 1941 C w/ 3-point "Maggie" 1947 C SFW w/ L306 "Trixie" 1972 314H |
Posted By: Rog NCWI
Date Posted: 17 Feb 2018 at 7:46pm
| I have a similar problem with my B. If I start the B up with the pulley in gear, then take in out of gear, the pulley still runs. I can stop the pulley with my fingers. Then I can shift with out grinding the gears. This happen after I overhauled it. Shifted fine before. What is the causing problem and how do I fix it? |
Posted By: Dick L
Date Posted: 17 Feb 2018 at 10:52pm
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Posted By: Hubnut
Date Posted: 18 Feb 2018 at 5:57am
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Nice pic Dick. ------------- 1940 B "Lucy" 1941 B w/ Woods L59 "Flavia" 1942 B w/ finish mower "Dick" 1941 C w/ 3-point "Maggie" 1947 C SFW w/ L306 "Trixie" 1972 314H |
Posted By: KenBWisc
Date Posted: 20 Feb 2018 at 1:31pm
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Winner, winner, chicken dinner! Bearing pre-load did the trick! Thanks to all who responded! After turning the clutch disc around and adjusting clutch fingers to 1/4" from the throwout bearing with no improvement I split the tractor AGAIN and, it did the trick. The book directions for amount of pre-load are far from specific. And, would it have killed the AC engineers to have provided even a slightly larger clutch inspection hole?? Ended up making a 1/4" measuring tool out of two washers on the end of a piece of rod custom bent for proper access. ------------- '34 WC #629, '49 G, '49 B, '49 WD, '62 D-19, '38 All Crop 60 and still hunting! |
Posted By: Orange Blood
Date Posted: 20 Feb 2018 at 6:57pm
Welcome to the wonderful world of tractor restoration....wait we all build special tools for all the equipment we work on.  ------------- Still in use: HD7 WC C CA WD 2-WD45 WD45LP WD45D D14 3-D17 D17LP 2-D19D D19LP 190XTD 190XTLP 720 D21 220 7020 7030 7040 7045 3-7060 Projects: 3-U UC 2-G 2-B 2-C CA 7-WC RC WDLP WF D14 D21 210 7045 N7 |
KenBWisc wrote: