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First post my Wd puller project.

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Topic: First post my Wd puller project.
Posted By: UglyAllis
Subject: First post my Wd puller project.
Date Posted: 08 Nov 2017 at 7:35pm
So this is a long story but I will keep it short. When I was younger I went in on a 48 WD with a friend. We used the tractor for everything from skidding wood to brush hogging and making hay. I even took to a few stone boat and transfer sled pulls. I bought out his half and had the tractor for years. I ended up selling it off because I didn't use it much and didn't have a covered place to store it..... a few years later my buddy that I used to go to pulls with called and said he was taking his Super M to a local pull and I should come check it out.

Well unfortunately I did and I just had to get back into pulling.

So here is what I started with. Basically bone stock 48 WD

uploads/17123/IMG_20161114_054715.jpg" rel="nofollow - IMG_20161114_054715.jpg



Replies:
Posted By: UglyAllis
Date Posted: 08 Nov 2017 at 7:50pm
So with the help of a few friends we fabbed up some really basic wheelie bars and a hitch.

I didn't really know what I wanted in a hitch just that I wanted it short and as high as possible per the rules (18" high and 20" from the center of axle back)

This is the best picture I have of the hitch and bars.



Posted By: Mikez
Date Posted: 08 Nov 2017 at 11:05pm
Nice, got hooked back into it. Where abouts are you located


Posted By: UglyAllis
Date Posted: 09 Nov 2017 at 3:57am
Upstate ny near Ithaca. I have a lot of pictures of my project just trying to figure out a decent way to post them.


Posted By: CAL(KS)
Date Posted: 09 Nov 2017 at 9:04am
You can start saving your pictures into the file manager and posting them that way but eventually you will run out of room and have to delete to put in more.  vgy.me has been suggested but I find it quite unuser friendly compared to photosucket.  don't bother with photobucket as you will have to pay to have your pictures viewable, unless you only post a link to the album.
 
decent looking tractor to start with.  I found tires and hitch make the biggest gains, and then its tweaking and engine mods if you can afford it.
 
 


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Me -C,U,UC,WC,WD45,190XT,TL-12,145T,HD6G,HD10W,HD16

Dad- WD, D17D, D19D, RT100A, 7020, 7080,7580, 2-8550's, R62, R72 HD15


Posted By: UglyAllis
Date Posted: 09 Nov 2017 at 11:57am
Thanks for the info. I took a bunch of pictures during the build. I hope I can get them posted.


Posted By: CAL(KS)
Date Posted: 09 Nov 2017 at 12:32pm

I just setup an account at http://www.postimg.org" rel="nofollow - www.postimg.org after seeing it usedt in construction equipment forum to give it a try.  Looks a little more user friendly than vgy for same application.
 
 
here is where my pulling project started.  date was not 2005 more like 2014 or 15  From forum file manager
 
 
 
 From http://www.postimg.org" rel="nofollow - www.postimg.org   where im at now




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Me -C,U,UC,WC,WD45,190XT,TL-12,145T,HD6G,HD10W,HD16

Dad- WD, D17D, D19D, RT100A, 7020, 7080,7580, 2-8550's, R62, R72 HD15


Posted By: UglyAllis
Date Posted: 09 Nov 2017 at 4:41pm
Great pics thanks for the reply.


Posted By: UglyAllis
Date Posted: 09 Nov 2017 at 5:11pm
Another try at the hitch pic.

https://postimages.org/" rel="nofollow">

So this is the hitch we threw together the day before the pull and it's not the greatest. I am planning on redoing the hitch this winter to make it and the wheelie bars adjustable.


Posted By: UglyAllis
Date Posted: 09 Nov 2017 at 5:28pm
So Tha last 4 pulls of 2016 I ran the stock WD.

I pulled 3500, 4000, 4500 and 5000 all in the antique class which is 3.5mph.

The track I pull at is really grippy clay and I definitely didn't have the hp.

I could spin out in 3500 and 4000 but ran out of power after that.

So now I was trying to decide what to do.

Build my motor up to 45 specs? Leave it stock.... Hmmm

Well this is when I found this site. I did a lot or reading and found that the gleaner E was a good swap. I thought what are the chances of finding a decent E motor.

A work friend of mine owns a combine salvage yard in upstate NY so I gave him a call. He just happened to have a gleaner E that came in (got drove in) last summer. I told him to pull the motor I would take it.

https://postimages.org/" rel="nofollow">


Posted By: UglyAllis
Date Posted: 09 Nov 2017 at 5:39pm
I finished out the 2016 season on the stock motor and just flat out got my butt kicked every month.

Once last winter came I pulled the tractor in the shop and started to tear down.

My goal was to stop off all the unnecessary weight and put in the gleaner motor.

I have a lot of pictures of the swap I will try to post a bunch of them but it is so slow uploading them.

A big thanks goes out to everyone who posted in the past on this forum. I wouldn't have had the confidence to do the swap on my own.

https://postimages.org/" rel="nofollow">

So here it is in the shop starting to strip it down. I never tore into this tractor before but everything is extremely simple. I love working on it and teaching my boys along the way.


Posted By: UglyAllis
Date Posted: 09 Nov 2017 at 5:48pm
So I stripped the gleaner motor and pressure washed it. I ditched all the associated combine parts (started, flywheel, water pump, and had it down to just the basics.

I looked everything over really well and took a lot of pics to reference later if need be.

We first pulled the WD engine and set it off to the side.

While I had the engine out I wanted to pull the hand clutch out and strip off all the other in needed parts.

So I removed the hydraulic pump, hand clutch, PTO box, PTO gears and associated parts that held them in.

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Here we are prepping to pull the motor.

The kids were a huge help. It was so nice doing it with them.


Posted By: UglyAllis
Date Posted: 09 Nov 2017 at 5:51pm
I will add more info and pics as I get time if people are interested.



Posted By: mjbower
Date Posted: 09 Nov 2017 at 6:30pm
Keep the pictures coming and keep up the good work. Good see the kids helping maybe they will drive it some day.


Posted By: UglyAllis
Date Posted: 09 Nov 2017 at 9:34pm
Here is a pic of the stock motor out. We pulled it with the frame rails left in place. There was lots of room.

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Kids had a blast


Posted By: UglyAllis
Date Posted: 09 Nov 2017 at 9:39pm
Next step was dropping the frame rail, pulling the steering wheel and shaft, and the fuel tank.

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Posted By: UglyAllis
Date Posted: 09 Nov 2017 at 9:45pm
Now onto removing the bell housing and hand clutch housing section. All pretty straight forward.

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Posted By: UglyAllis
Date Posted: 09 Nov 2017 at 9:50pm
I thought I had more pics of the hand clutch removal but can't find them at the moment.

Here is a picture of the housing with the hand clutch out. I also removed everything the large cross shaft too. Figured might as well if it's not needed.

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Here is the shaft that goes into the transmission

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I had a hard time coming up with a coupler for this.


Posted By: UglyAllis
Date Posted: 09 Nov 2017 at 9:54pm
Once I had this section gutted I was ready to put it back together.

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Posted By: UglyAllis
Date Posted: 09 Nov 2017 at 9:58pm
While I had that section out I had to make block off plates for the hydraulic pump, PTO box, hand clutch, and flat belt pulley openings.

Here is the one for the hydraulic pump.

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Posted By: UglyAllis
Date Posted: 09 Nov 2017 at 10:04pm
Here it is back together

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This is one of my favorite pics. My son would do his homework on the work bench while I worked on the tractor. He was motivated to get it done so he could help.


Posted By: UglyAllis
Date Posted: 09 Nov 2017 at 10:09pm
Now it's time to see if the gleaner would fit.

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We put a new clutch in it while it was apart.

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Posted By: UglyAllis
Date Posted: 09 Nov 2017 at 10:16pm
So just as you guys said the motor was a direct bolt in. Absolutely no issues. The engine does touch the framerail on the right side but barely so I didn't notch the rail.

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Posted By: UglyAllis
Date Posted: 09 Nov 2017 at 10:22pm
So I will try to cover what I did and why if you have any questions please ask

Here are the 2 thermostat housings. I ran the factory WD one so everything would clear.

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Here is a side by side picture of the 2 pulleys.

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Posted By: UglyAllis
Date Posted: 09 Nov 2017 at 10:49pm
So my stock pulley was open all the way through the center. I could slide it on but when I lined it up with indent on the crankshaft it was about 5/8" to far forward (if I remember correctly).

I measured the distance I needed to move the hole on the pulley.

I took the pulley to a local machinist. I had him drill a new hole on the opposite side the correct distance from the end and he tapped it to accept the factory bolt.

Well worth the 20$ he charged.

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I can't tell from the pic but I think it was takes during mockup.

Also used the factory water pump just had to drill out the holes.


Posted By: UglyAllis
Date Posted: 09 Nov 2017 at 11:14pm
So you have to do something about the oil lines so that the steering shaft clears.

Here is what the factory gleaner lines looked like.

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Here is what I did.

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I actually redid them one more time to make it easier to pull the dipstick.

This particular gleaner motor already had a block off plate on the fuel pump hole in the block so I didn't have to mess with it.


Posted By: UglyAllis
Date Posted: 09 Nov 2017 at 11:22pm
I am running the factory gleaner carb but with a cone style filter and a 12 volt fuel pump.

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I was originally going to run and alternator but later ditched it and just run a battery and charger it between pulls.

I am also running a 4" straight pipe. It's pretty loud.

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Here it is mostly buttoned up.


Posted By: Sugarmaker
Date Posted: 09 Nov 2017 at 11:31pm
Good thread! Glad you have the boys helping you!
Regards,
 Chris


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D17 1958 (NFE), WD45 1954 (NFE), WD 1952 (NFE), WD 1950 (WFE), Ford Jubilee, IH TD6 Many IH Cub Cadets


Posted By: UglyAllis
Date Posted: 09 Nov 2017 at 11:31pm
I gave it an oil change and wired the fuel pump and ignition to a simple toggle switch.

The one thing I didn't really take any pictures of what the governor setup. This part was making me the most nervous. I didn't really understand what others were doing to this to convert to the tractor style governor.

I decided I was going to try the combine gov and if I didn't like how it acted I would figure out to change it over.

With a little work I was able to make the combine gov work. Its really hard for me to explain what I had to do so if anyone wants more info I will have to take some pics.



Posted By: UglyAllis
Date Posted: 09 Nov 2017 at 11:38pm
So once we we're ready to try to fire it I was very nervous.

We puller the started handle and it fired right up..... I mean like sat there ideling perfect. The motor runs amazing. Idles great revs good. I had a few small oil leaks but I couldn't believe how great this thing ran. I got very very lucky with this motor considering it was at a salvage yard.

The governor works great to. It's hard to explain but it is a much touchier throttle. It really snaps open hard but then hits max rpm quick. It works fine just touchy compared to the tractor gov.



Posted By: CAL(KS)
Date Posted: 10 Nov 2017 at 7:35am
the combine weights have a smaller rpm drop before it kicks in I believe


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Me -C,U,UC,WC,WD45,190XT,TL-12,145T,HD6G,HD10W,HD16

Dad- WD, D17D, D19D, RT100A, 7020, 7080,7580, 2-8550's, R62, R72 HD15


Posted By: UglyAllis
Date Posted: 10 Nov 2017 at 5:35pm
I found a cheap set of firestones that were wider and mounted them on a set of combine wheels.

The tires are 14.9 26s give me a little more bite.

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Posted By: UglyAllis
Date Posted: 10 Nov 2017 at 5:45pm
Here it is all painted up.

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Posted By: UglyAllis
Date Posted: 10 Nov 2017 at 5:49pm
I wanted to continue to lighten up the tractor and the nose was still pretty heavy in the light classes.

I decided to run small 12" trailer wheels and tri ribs on the front

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The bolt pattern was not the same so I had to open up the center hole and then drill new holes in the hubs and through bolt them.



Posted By: UglyAllis
Date Posted: 10 Nov 2017 at 5:56pm
I don't think it looks too bad.

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Posted By: mjbower
Date Posted: 10 Nov 2017 at 7:20pm
Awesome good job bet it'll pull as cool as it looks


Posted By: UglyAllis
Date Posted: 11 Nov 2017 at 5:30am
So the tractor runs great and I started this past season pretty happy. I was still moving a lot of things around on the tractor. I still couldn't quite get the front end light in 3500 so I started looking for a wc lightweight front pedistal

Here is what I found

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I cut the 1/2 flange off the back. The lightweight front is 100lbs lighter.
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Here it is mounted up



Posted By: UglyAllis
Date Posted: 11 Nov 2017 at 5:49am
Here she is all loaded up for a pull.

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Posted By: UglyAllis
Date Posted: 11 Nov 2017 at 5:57am
So overall I was very happy with the progress this season. I am slowwly getting to where I want to be.

The motor runs great and have great power. I have most everything dialed in besides tires.... Need bigger tires.

My local track has a 15.5 38 limit and my competition all runs 13.6 or 15.5. I am always just a few feet behind them with my little 26s

https://postimages.org/" rel="nofollow">


Posted By: CAL(KS)
Date Posted: 11 Nov 2017 at 2:26pm
Looks good and you didnt have to spend a fortune.

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Me -C,U,UC,WC,WD45,190XT,TL-12,145T,HD6G,HD10W,HD16

Dad- WD, D17D, D19D, RT100A, 7020, 7080,7580, 2-8550's, R62, R72 HD15


Posted By: UglyAllis
Date Posted: 11 Nov 2017 at 4:16pm
Yeah it's been pretty cheap so far. Now I gotta buy tires and rims..... Going to cost more that the tractor lol


Posted By: Sugarmaker
Date Posted: 13 Nov 2017 at 10:32pm
I like it! You  and the boys have done a lot of work to the tractor.
 Thanks for keeping us up to date.
Regards,
 Chris


-------------
D17 1958 (NFE), WD45 1954 (NFE), WD 1952 (NFE), WD 1950 (WFE), Ford Jubilee, IH TD6 Many IH Cub Cadets


Posted By: dawntreader74
Date Posted: 14 Nov 2017 at 5:18pm
it needs more weight on the nose' it will do a lot better' when it comes up like that you lose your drawbar height' your tires are working' if you keep the front down' it will take some motor then. because it will make the tires work more. also looks like the tires are a little soft' may need aired up a tad will also help keep your drawbar height' we run 20'' in' height.


Posted By: UglyAllis
Date Posted: 14 Nov 2017 at 5:52pm
Thanks for the input. I definitely am still working on my weight placement. This winter I am building a better more adjustable hitch. I also need to start bumping up my psi as I go up in classes.

Thanks


Posted By: DrAllis
Date Posted: 15 Nov 2017 at 3:58pm
Ideal weighting/balance is where you can just slide a sheet of paper under the front wheels as you spin out. Good luck hitting that every time !!!


Posted By: UglyAllis
Date Posted: 15 Nov 2017 at 5:00pm
Thanks I definitely always lean towards a lighter front. Need to change my habit.

Questions on tires. I am going to buy a complete diesel rear ( transmission to finals). Looks to be a direct bolt on does that sound right?

I am still debating between 13.6 and 15.5 38s

My track I can run 15.5s but some other local tracks I have heard 13.6 for anything 4500lb and under. Opinions on that?


Posted By: ac720nut
Date Posted: 16 Nov 2017 at 5:08am
Enjoyed your build, great to be able to include the boys


Posted By: UglyAllis
Date Posted: 16 Nov 2017 at 6:57am
Thanks. We will be There it again soon once the bad weather sets in


Posted By: CAL(KS)
Date Posted: 16 Nov 2017 at 7:52am
Originally posted by UglyAllis UglyAllis wrote:

Thanks I definitely always lean towards a lighter front. Need to change my habit.

Questions on tires. I am going to buy a complete diesel rear ( transmission to finals). Looks to be a direct bolt on does that sound right?

I am still debating between 13.6 and 15.5 38s

My track I can run 15.5s but some other local tracks I have heard 13.6 for anything 4500lb and under. Opinions on that?
 
Depends on the rules where you pull and what classes/Divisions.   
  NATPA DivII is 170 sq inches of tire or less on 4500# and down  which is 13.6 x38 (168) or 14.9 x 28 (170)
4500#-6500# max sq inch is 229.  I run 5000# + with the UC and have 16.9x34 (229)
Div III is 18.4x 38 max tire size
My club uses NATPA rules.
http://www.natpa.com/rules.htm" rel="nofollow - http://www.natpa.com/rules.htm


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Me -C,U,UC,WC,WD45,190XT,TL-12,145T,HD6G,HD10W,HD16

Dad- WD, D17D, D19D, RT100A, 7020, 7080,7580, 2-8550's, R62, R72 HD15


Posted By: UglyAllis
Date Posted: 16 Nov 2017 at 12:33pm
Thanks for the info.


Posted By: UglyAllis
Date Posted: 16 Nov 2017 at 12:38pm
My favorite picture from the summer.

My pit crew.

https://postimages.org/" rel="nofollow">


Posted By: UglyAllis
Date Posted: 21 Nov 2017 at 8:43am
Well finally getting a little free time.

Motor is coming back out. Installing new crank seals and gaskets.

https://postimg.org/image/9jr1bxfsn/" rel="nofollow">


Posted By: UglyAllis
Date Posted: 21 Nov 2017 at 4:50pm
https://postimg.org/image/rnyn9w2qf/" rel="nofollow">


Posted By: UglyAllis
Date Posted: 24 Nov 2017 at 6:05pm
Ok motors out and it's time to start stripping it down. The front cover is giving me fits.

What's the big bolt with the jam nut for?

Everything else is out and it won't budge.... Granted I didn't try real hard yet I didn't want to break anything so I wanted to do a little research first.

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Posted By: UglyAllis
Date Posted: 25 Nov 2017 at 6:24pm
Front cover is off and started cleaning it up


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Posted By: UglyAllis
Date Posted: 25 Nov 2017 at 6:29pm
https://postimg.org/image/3zibt76vl/" rel="nofollow">


Posted By: LeonR2013
Date Posted: 10 Dec 2017 at 10:20pm
While you're practicing with your tires see if you can find some used ones at a tractor tire store or better yet see if you can find some on this forum, while they may be weather cracked some you're not taking a chance of buying the wrong tire and sinking a bunch of money in something that isn't going to work for you. Those two boys of yours look like they're having a blast. You'll win more with them than you will with the tractor I'm afraid.


Posted By: UglyAllis
Date Posted: 11 Dec 2017 at 10:47am
Thanks for the response. Progress has slowed up for a bit. I am working 6 days a week and having some family Heath issues so free time is a premium. I don't know if tires are going to happen this winter or not but it's ok either way. She will pull next summer regardless.



Posted By: JayIN
Date Posted: 24 Dec 2017 at 11:31am
Keep up the good work.and keep us posted! Go Orange!!!

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sometimes I walk out to my shop and look around and think "Who's the idiot that owns this place?"


Posted By: UglyAllis
Date Posted: 27 Apr 2018 at 6:34pm
Well unfortunately I didn't get a lot of work done on the Allis this winter. I pulled the motor and re sealed most everything. Got it all back together and am not chaising some coolant leaks. I will be running the same tires as last year.   Should be fun either way


Posted By: Sugarmaker
Date Posted: 28 Apr 2018 at 11:01am
For some reason I cant get to your pictures???
Sounds like you have done a lot to get this pulling better each year. Have family fun with it!
 Regards,
 Chris


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D17 1958 (NFE), WD45 1954 (NFE), WD 1952 (NFE), WD 1950 (WFE), Ford Jubilee, IH TD6 Many IH Cub Cadets


Posted By: mjbower
Date Posted: 28 Apr 2018 at 7:15pm
Yah me to keep pictures coming and keep the pit crew (the boys) around to your lucky to have them involved. Good luck


Posted By: UglyAllis
Date Posted: 15 Jan 2019 at 7:38pm
How's everyone doing. Back at it this winter.

Stripping more weight.



Posted By: mjbower
Date Posted: 15 Jan 2019 at 11:35pm
Praying for spring but not even ready for it. We have been lucky here in Michigan winter has been gentle. got wheels to build and tires to cut plenty to do. Hope everyone else is surviving.


Posted By: UglyAllis
Date Posted: 11 Apr 2019 at 7:34pm
Made a lot of progress this winter. We built a lightweight center section (replaced the hand clutch housing).

Swapped out the steering shaft.

Widened a set of 28" wheels and built an adjustable Hitch.


Posted By: CAL(KS)
Date Posted: 17 Apr 2019 at 9:51am
I cant see your pictures anymore.


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Me -C,U,UC,WC,WD45,190XT,TL-12,145T,HD6G,HD10W,HD16

Dad- WD, D17D, D19D, RT100A, 7020, 7080,7580, 2-8550's, R62, R72 HD15


Posted By: UglyAllis
Date Posted: 05 Jun 2019 at 11:14am
I cant either. I wish this forum was easier to post pics on.


Posted By: frnkeore
Date Posted: 05 Jun 2019 at 11:58am
This is a very interesting thread! I can't see them either but, I would love to see the pictures, also.

I have a question for those that know the rules well. How is the tire area calculated. I have a set of 18.4 x 26 tires that I want to put on my D17, for next year.


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Frank
1959 D17 Series I #24001+
'55 & '59 Ford 850 & 861
Ferguson TO 35 Deluxe, Oliver 70


Posted By: CAL(KS)
Date Posted: 05 Jun 2019 at 12:17pm
this is what natpa uses


0-4500# class 200 sq. in.
4501-6500# class 229 sq. in.
6501-9500# class 300 sq. in.

11.2 x 38 – 120 sq. in. 12.4 x 38 – 140 sq. in. 13.6 x 38 – 168 sq. in. 
11.2 x 36 – 115 sq. in. 12.4 x 36 – 135 sq. in. 14.9 x 28 – 170 sq. in. 
18. 4 x 28 – 126 sq. in. 13.6 x 28 – 145 sq. in. 13.6 x 24 – 130 sq. in. 
14.9 x 26 – 144 sq. in. 14.9 x 38 – 200 sq. in. 18.4 x 34 – 284 sq. in. 
18.4 x 38 – 300 sq. in. 15.5 x 38 – 189 sq. in. 16.9 x 38 – 252 sq. in.
 16.9 x 34 – 229 sq. in. 18.4 x 28 – 250 sq. in.


after some searching 18.4 x 26 bias tire is listed at 242 sq. in. by firestone

so if your pull is using natpa rules  your D17 could only pull @ 6501+  lbs!!!!  not where you want to be

 


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Me -C,U,UC,WC,WD45,190XT,TL-12,145T,HD6G,HD10W,HD16

Dad- WD, D17D, D19D, RT100A, 7020, 7080,7580, 2-8550's, R62, R72 HD15


Posted By: frnkeore
Date Posted: 05 Jun 2019 at 12:40pm
Thank you, very much, Cal. I agree that puts me out any class that I want to pull in.

Are there typo's in that chart? It's lists 18. x 28 at 126 Sq In and 15.5 x 38 at 189 Sq In. Also, i don't see 16.9 x 28 listed. That's what I have now.

Do you have a link to the Firestone chart?


-------------
Frank
1959 D17 Series I #24001+
'55 & '59 Ford 850 & 861
Ferguson TO 35 Deluxe, Oliver 70


Posted By: CAL(KS)
Date Posted: 05 Jun 2019 at 12:51pm
could be a typo  i copied and pasted from natpa site. 

found the 18.4 x 26 here.  you have to go down to bias tire pg 31
it lists others as well.  15.5 x38 shows 189 here
http://www.yournexttire.com/content/Tirecatalog2017FirestoneAgb.pdf" rel="nofollow - http://www.yournexttire.com/content/Tirecatalog2017FirestoneAgb.pdf



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Me -C,U,UC,WC,WD45,190XT,TL-12,145T,HD6G,HD10W,HD16

Dad- WD, D17D, D19D, RT100A, 7020, 7080,7580, 2-8550's, R62, R72 HD15


Posted By: frnkeore
Date Posted: 05 Jun 2019 at 1:59pm
Thank you again, I saved it and will look it over, later


-------------
Frank
1959 D17 Series I #24001+
'55 & '59 Ford 850 & 861
Ferguson TO 35 Deluxe, Oliver 70


Posted By: bradley6874
Date Posted: 05 Jun 2019 at 3:16pm
14.9 28 are 183 that’s as big as you can legally go with 28 18.4-26 are 242 15.5 38 are 200 that’s why you see everybody using them

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You can wash the dirt off the body but you can’t wash the farmer out of the heart and soul


Posted By: frnkeore
Date Posted: 05 Jun 2019 at 7:39pm
I did some looking around today and found the 16.9 x 24, listed at 196. Are they used much?



-------------
Frank
1959 D17 Series I #24001+
'55 & '59 Ford 850 & 861
Ferguson TO 35 Deluxe, Oliver 70


Posted By: CAL(KS)
Date Posted: 06 Jun 2019 at 7:47am
track conditions play a role and opinions will vary.  I think you will find a majority of pullers will run a taller narrow tire as opposed to a short fat tire.  i have been told that a short fat tire will "float" and spin sooner than a tall and narrow one, but whether there are facts to back this up who knows?  perhaps there is some science to explain the advantages to the footprint being parallel or perpendicular to the travel of the tractor.  lots of factors in the winning equation.  i havnt done enough pulling to really have an opinion other than i sized my tires to provide the largest footprint i can run and allow me to keep the engine near its rated speed for the class mph.

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Me -C,U,UC,WC,WD45,190XT,TL-12,145T,HD6G,HD10W,HD16

Dad- WD, D17D, D19D, RT100A, 7020, 7080,7580, 2-8550's, R62, R72 HD15


Posted By: frnkeore
Date Posted: 08 Jun 2019 at 1:37pm
I've done some research in the Firestone and Goodyear catalogs and came up with these number for Sq In.

Some are more and some are less than the NATPA numbers. I can only assume that the NATPA number are the deciding numbers, for what your allowed, for tire size.

In that case a larger foot print listed for g & f would be advantageous.

The 15.5 x 38, 175, is Goodyear and the 18.4 x 34, 291, is Firestone.




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Frank
1959 D17 Series I #24001+
'55 & '59 Ford 850 & 861
Ferguson TO 35 Deluxe, Oliver 70



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