185 hard starting.
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Category: Allis Chalmers
Forum Name: Farm Equipment
Forum Description: everything about Allis-Chalmers farm equipment
URL: https://www.allischalmers.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=144163
Printed Date: 22 Aug 2025 at 7:35am
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Topic: 185 hard starting.
Posted By: Greenie
Subject: 185 hard starting.
Date Posted: 05 Nov 2017 at 2:55pm
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When the tractor sits overnight or a few days she’s a bear to start. Doesn’t matter if it’s 80 degrees or 40 degrees. Once she starts there is no problem the rest of the day. It’s the initial start that’s the problem. In the process of rebuilding priming hand pump and also cleaned the tank,changed filter, and pulled screen out of sediment bowl. When I repair priming pump I’ll double check for air leaks and if that doesn’t work I’ll look into the injector pump. And advice would be greatly appreciated.
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Replies:
Posted By: jaybmiller
Date Posted: 05 Nov 2017 at 3:16pm
is there an inline electric fuel pump ?? if so maybe it's getting 'weak'. My Buda diesel A-C forklift resembles your starting problem...
the latest routine I have is turn key ON...2 squirts of ether..count 10 steamboats..turn to START.... ruump... this has worked 999 out of 1000 times..
just an idea..
Jay
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3 D-14s,A-C forklift, B-112
Kubota BX23S lil' TOOT( The Other Orange Tractor)
Never burn your bridges, unless you can walk on water
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Posted By: Greenie
Date Posted: 05 Nov 2017 at 3:37pm
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Thanks jay. No inline electric pump on it. Bought this tractor several months ago and it’s a solid tractor but didn’t realize it had some of these problems. Trying to work the bugs out of it. I’m figuring the guy I bought it off of worked on it or had somebody work on it and didn’t really know what they where doing. Just a guess tho.
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Posted By: injpumpEd
Date Posted: 05 Nov 2017 at 3:48pm
rebuilding the priming pump should take care of your issues, along with replacing the rubber ferrules on the supply lines. That being gravity fed, should not be too tough. The check valves inside the primer can plug up and cause it to restrict, then that will make the injection pump create a vacuum, then when shut off, the vacuum pulls the fuel back from the inj pump. Also be sure to check tank vent in cap.
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210 "too hot to farm" puller, part of the "insane pumpkin posse". Owner of Guenther Heritage Diesel, specializing in fuel injection systems on heritage era tractors. stock rebuilds to all out pullers!
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Posted By: LeonR2013
Date Posted: 05 Nov 2017 at 4:33pm
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I don't remember, but do these models have a anti drain back valve on the filter? If not perhaps you could find someone who can read something besides the computer and find a filter that is dimensionally the same, same threads, etc. and put one of those on. While not exactly the way to do things it will work. Actually it doesn't have to be the same size, just the seals need to be close and the threads have to be the same.
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Posted By: MACK
Date Posted: 05 Nov 2017 at 10:55pm
The anti drain back is in primer pump.
Also check timing. Might regard it two degrees. MACK
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Posted By: Greenie
Date Posted: 06 Nov 2017 at 7:41am
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Thanks for all the helpful info. Will be tearing into it later this week. I’ll keep an update on what I find. Thanks again for all the helpful info.
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Posted By: Gary Burnett
Date Posted: 06 Nov 2017 at 8:00am
Do you have a really good battery that really spins the engine like it should? If its turning
a little slow it won't start very well,once you get it cranked it recharges the battery and then starts easier for the day.I'd put a set of jumpers on it for the first start of the day
and see if that makes a difference.Also starter slightly dragging will cause the same thing
that happened with my Oliver 1450 starter was dragging a little, hard to start,new bushings
in starter now it cranks right up.
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Posted By: Greenie
Date Posted: 06 Nov 2017 at 9:18am
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Took starter off and got it rebuilt and also made sure batteries where charged up good. She turns over like a champ. No issues on that end.
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Posted By: DrAllis
Date Posted: 06 Nov 2017 at 9:50am
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I don't see anywhere that you have ever used the manifold heater before a "cold start" ?? Why not ??
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Posted By: LeonR2013
Date Posted: 06 Nov 2017 at 8:31pm
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I was just thinking that a fuel filter with a anti-drain back would let him know that the problem is after the filter. Just a thought.
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Posted By: tbran
Date Posted: 06 Nov 2017 at 8:41pm
there is an important trouble shooting tool - does the engine smoke at first turning over or not? If it smoke white when you first crank it - it is compression or timing or possibly leaky injectors, if there is no smoke, it is as Ed sez an issue of air or transfer pump issues. The tank , if full , will render a positive pressure to the pump probably overcoming any leak at the fuel lines. So,, smoke or no smoke...
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When told "it's not the money,it's the principle", remember, it's always the money..
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Posted By: Greenie
Date Posted: 08 Nov 2017 at 7:20pm
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It will smoke a lot. Timing could be any issue. Right now I’m fixing all the leaks on the fuel system.
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Posted By: DrAllis
Date Posted: 09 Nov 2017 at 7:14am
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DOES THE INTAKE MANIFOLD HEATER WORK ???
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Posted By: Tbone95
Date Posted: 09 Nov 2017 at 7:31am
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Should he need a manifold heater when it's 80 degrees out?
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Posted By: Greenie
Date Posted: 09 Nov 2017 at 8:39am
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Yes intake manifold heater works.
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Posted By: DrAllis
Date Posted: 09 Nov 2017 at 9:16am
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Shouldn't need it at 80 degrees but, this would help in the diagnosis. Owners manual will refer to 50 degrees and lower. Make sure the manifold it HOT around the heater after activating it for 60 seconds. Just because you hear it "click" doesn't mean it's working.
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Posted By: Greenie
Date Posted: 15 Nov 2017 at 5:44pm
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Update on the fuel system. Drained tank and cleaned out plus took all the lines off and made sure they where clean and had no leaks. Also took the filter off and found something stuck in it. So as of now fuel system is clean as it can get. One last trouble I’m having is the fuel system from the tank to the filter is getting air locked. If u unloosen the bowl that will release the air lock and make the fuel flow again. The fuel tank cap has a breather on so I cleaned it and seems to be working. So why the air lock? Thanks for the advice.
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Posted By: DanWi
Date Posted: 15 Nov 2017 at 5:50pm
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If the rest of the system is airtight the sediment bowl won't fill up until you loosen the bowl a little or bleed the system.
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Posted By: Greenie
Date Posted: 15 Nov 2017 at 5:59pm
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What’s the best way to bleed the system?
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Posted By: d21_man
Date Posted: 15 Nov 2017 at 6:05pm
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If it is a roosa master pump...pretty sure it would be on a 185, over time the rubber seals will start to disintegrate and small, really small chunks will start plugging the small orfices and pre-screen. Might be a possibility? I have seen that happen on Dad's 180 and my D21. Always want to make sure they don't sit without running them every few weeks...I learned the hard way...twice...with my D21. So far I have not had issues with my 200 and 7040, but they get used a bit more. Just a suggestion...good luck and hopefully it's not a $500 rebuild on a pump.
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Posted By: Greenie
Date Posted: 15 Nov 2017 at 6:08pm
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Thanks for the advice. I’ll keep u posted on what I find
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