WD Clutch Install
Printed From: Unofficial Allis
Category: Allis Chalmers
Forum Name: Farm Equipment
Forum Description: everything about Allis-Chalmers farm equipment
URL: https://www.allischalmers.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=142820
Printed Date: 29 May 2025 at 12:47am
Software Version: Web Wiz Forums 11.10 - http://www.webwizforums.com
Topic: WD Clutch Install
Posted By: jboettcher
Subject: WD Clutch Install
Date Posted: 25 Sep 2017 at 10:16am
| I am looking to find someone that is in Wisc that would be interested in a side job installing a clutch assembly in my WD when I remove the motor. |
Replies:
Posted By: Stan IL&TN
Date Posted: 25 Sep 2017 at 10:26am
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Removing the engine is way more work than the installation of the clutch. After the engine is out it's a piece of cake. Remove the old clutch and take it to a clutch rebuilder in your area or have one of the fine folks that support this site do it. ------------- 1957 WD45 dad's first AC 1968 one-seventy 1956 F40 Ferguson |
Posted By: jboettcher
Date Posted: 25 Sep 2017 at 10:33am
| WHere would I find who in wisconsin does the clutch work |
Posted By: Stan IL&TN
Date Posted: 25 Sep 2017 at 10:38am
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Yellow pages or Google or check with the vendors on this site. ------------- 1957 WD45 dad's first AC 1968 one-seventy 1956 F40 Ferguson |
Posted By: IBWD MIke
Date Posted: 25 Sep 2017 at 10:46am
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Talk to Rick! He's on here most days I think. |
Posted By: jboettcher
Date Posted: 25 Sep 2017 at 10:51am
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OK! Call slap me silly and call me Shirley! I don't see anything calling out vendors? Any assistance would be great.
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Posted By: Stan IL&TN
Date Posted: 25 Sep 2017 at 11:22am
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Go to top of this page and select/click on the AC emblem. It should take you to another page that has "parts and Services" listed on one of the tabs. Select it and you will see the vendors. I don't think Rick is listed there but he is the resident clutch expert and should be along shortly. ------------- 1957 WD45 dad's first AC 1968 one-seventy 1956 F40 Ferguson |
Posted By: jbirnsch
Date Posted: 25 Sep 2017 at 11:32am
| I just bought a clutch disk of off eBay (search for price + shipping lowest) and you can also get an aliment tool there too. There are only a couple of bolts that hold the pressure plate on. |
Posted By: Brian Jasper co. Ia
Date Posted: 25 Sep 2017 at 12:38pm
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Get with Rick Corder. He's in Missouri but he will ship just about anywhere. I'd have him send you a cover and disc. I'm sure he'd want your old ones to rebuild for the next guy. ------------- "Any man who thinks he can be happy and prosperous by letting the government take care of him better take a closer look at the American Indian." Henry Ford |
Posted By: jboettcher
Date Posted: 25 Sep 2017 at 12:57pm
| OK Rick. He and I have been talking on FB Messager |
Posted By: WC7610
Date Posted: 25 Sep 2017 at 1:39pm
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Would suggest buying a service manual also-this is in addition to and not to be confused with an operators manual (which you should also have). Easy to follow instructions there. ------------- Thanks Most Bad Government has grown out of Too Much Government- Thomas Jefferson |
Posted By: DougS
Date Posted: 25 Sep 2017 at 2:41pm
Easy peasy. I helped do it when I was a whippersnapper. Once the engine is out you essentially unbolt the pressure plate and remove the clutch disk. Replace the clutch disk and maybe the pressure plate. I suggest that you replace the throw-out bearing, but that's no big deal either. Use a centering tool to center the disk. It's a little bit of a bugger aligning the splines when you reinstall the engine, but a little patience does the trick. |
jboettcher wrote:Posted By: Tony.Or
Date Posted: 25 Sep 2017 at 3:19pm
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Don`t forget to check the step in flywheel... Tony ------------- http://www.tonystractors.com" rel="nofollow - http://www.tonystractors.com |
Posted By: Rick
Date Posted: 25 Sep 2017 at 3:26pm
| Jamie...Tony brings up a very good point! ALWAYS resurface the flywheel or you might as well just keep the old clutch in there! The step is 1.188 in the book...close enough at 1.187 or 1 3/16". Rick |
Posted By: Lonn
Date Posted: 25 Sep 2017 at 4:19pm
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And don't force the engine back in using bolts. It should slide together with some maneuvering. Make some lineup dowels but cutting off the heads of a couple longer bolts to assist. ------------- -- --- .... .- -- -- .- -.. / .-- .- ... / .- / -- ..- .-. -.. . .-. .. -. --. / -.-. .... .. .-.. -.. / .-. .- .--. .. ... - Wink I am a Russian Bot |
Posted By: jboettcher
Date Posted: 25 Sep 2017 at 5:03pm
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I may be confusing myself. Is the engine clutch basically 3 pieces? and bolts onto the flywheel like a car? I think I have been looking at the transmission clutch and confusing that with the encine clutch. I never had a slip issue with the PTO, we only pull plows and planters. which clutch system drives the rear wheels? Engine clutch or transmission clutch? Also, we typically (only) use the hand clutch.
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Posted By: CTuckerNWIL
Date Posted: 25 Sep 2017 at 5:24pm
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The engine clutch drives everything. The transmission clutch, under the battery box, disengages the transmission so the wheels can stop, but lets the PTO and hydraulic pump keep working. ------------- http://www.ae-ta.com" rel="nofollow - http://www.ae-ta.com Lena 1935 WC12xxx, Willie 1951 CA6xx Dad bought new, 1954WD45 PS, 1960 D17 NF |
Posted By: DougS
Date Posted: 26 Sep 2017 at 7:53am
| If you mean the hand clutch, there's an excellent YouTube video that someone here posted a couple of months ago. I'm old and getting the heimers, so I don't remember who posted it. Verniers and calipers and such can usually be rented. |
Posted By: Allis dave
Date Posted: 26 Sep 2017 at 9:00am
| You should really only use the foot clutch. The hand clutch is only to stop forward motion while allowing the PTO or hydraulics to continue running. |
Posted By: jboettcher
Date Posted: 27 Sep 2017 at 6:38am
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I’m just tossing this out there I possibly found an engine in KY, I’m just curious if anyone has a WD or WD45 engine closer to Wisc . |
Posted By: SteveM C/IL
Date Posted: 27 Sep 2017 at 3:35pm
I will never understand that line of thinking. |
Posted By: DanC911
Date Posted: 28 Sep 2017 at 9:04pm
Here is the link: http://youtu.be/1ebh4pRvTiI" rel="nofollow - https://youtu.be/1ebh4pRvTiI ------------- 1950 WD, 1955 B, 66 Jacobsen Chief-O-Matic, 68 Simplicity 2110, 77 IH Cub Cadet 1450 w/front loader |
Posted By: jboettcher
Date Posted: 29 Sep 2017 at 6:11pm
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This is getting rediculous. Does nobody know how to replace/install/set up an engine clutch on a WD? I’ve got lots of messages saying it’s so easy, but no instructions. What is the height, how many shims, how far can flywheel be machined? |
Posted By: HudCo
Date Posted: 29 Sep 2017 at 10:13pm
| now i am getting confused, engine clutch just bolts to the flywheel with a piolet to center the disc springs facing out tighten all the bolts down even , somone on here probley that torque spec in the new piolet bearing installed in the center of the flywheel only dimension to worry about is the step in the flywheel when it is re serfaced ,that was posted earlyer. thats about all there is to it. keep the greasey finger prints of the mating surfaces. the hand clutch is the one that has the shim packs |
Posted By: jboettcher
Date Posted: 29 Sep 2017 at 10:53pm
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HudCo thanks I’m feeling a bit more informed. BUT!!!!! HudCo’s response spurred a question. Does the engine clutch ever disengage? What engages and disengages the engine clutch?some people have said the hand clutch runs the engine clutch. The repair procedure even talks about the hand clutch free play when replacing the engine clutch |
Posted By: Don(MO)
Date Posted: 30 Sep 2017 at 8:04am
Please read this quote above and buy SERVICE & OPERATORS MANIALS it will be a big help with all the questions you have today and on down the road.  But for today's help you can send me a PM and I will send you my phone # to help you out.  Don ------------- 3 WD45's with power steering,G,D15 fork lift,D19, W-Speed Patrol, "A" Gleaner with a 330 corn head,"66" combine,roto-baler, and lots of Snap Coupler implements to make them work for their keep. |
Posted By: CTuckerNWIL
Date Posted: 01 Oct 2017 at 11:52am
Why would you have an engine clutch if it never disengaged? When you push the foot pedal on the left side forward, the engine clutch disengages and stops ALL power to EVERYTHING behind the engine. The had clutch is a transmission clutch which only stops power to the tranny and leaves the PTO and hydraulic pump running. ------------- http://www.ae-ta.com" rel="nofollow - http://www.ae-ta.com Lena 1935 WC12xxx, Willie 1951 CA6xx Dad bought new, 1954WD45 PS, 1960 D17 NF |
Posted By: jboettcher
Date Posted: 01 Oct 2017 at 4:08pm
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CTucker- Ok, so if I’m pulling, and I feel “something like a clutch” slip, without the use of a pro. What is slipping? The transmission or engine clutch. I completely accept that I may be asking the question wrong. Very randomly, when we are working the tractor like a team of rented mules, we will feel something slip and our forward progress slows. Can you help me with this? Thank you in advance |
Posted By: jboettcher
Date Posted: 01 Oct 2017 at 4:13pm
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CTucker- Ok, so if I’m pulling, and I feel “something like a clutch” slip, without the use of a pro. What is slipping? The transmission or engine clutch. I completely accept that I may be asking the question wrong. Very randomly, when we are working the tractor like a team of rented mules, we will feel something slip and our forward progress slows. Can you help me with this? Thank you in advance |
Posted By: SteveM C/IL
Date Posted: 01 Oct 2017 at 4:25pm
| if your hand clutch pulls in hard and snaps out with a bang it is probably tight enough to not slip IF the discs are not worn out.When friction surface is shot,they can be tight and still slip. |
Posted By: Lonn
Date Posted: 02 Oct 2017 at 6:59am
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First it sounds like you don't know which clutch is slipping. Put the PTO in gear and watch to see if it stops when the tractor stops when pulling. If it stops then the foot clutch is slipping. If it doesn't stop then the hand clutch is slipping. I've had one that were both bad at the same time. After you determine which clutch you are working on then we can more easily help you. ------------- -- --- .... .- -- -- .- -.. / .-- .- ... / .- / -- ..- .-. -.. . .-. .. -. --. / -.-. .... .. .-.. -.. / .-. .- .--. .. ... - Wink I am a Russian Bot |
Posted By: jboettcher
Date Posted: 02 Oct 2017 at 9:37am
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Thank you everyone for the clutch respones!! I think I got it. What are your oponion on plugging the crankshaft and replacing the oil wick with a sealed bearing? What is everyone using to PLUG the crankshaft? Does anyone have a failsafe part number for the sealed bearing? Thanks!!!
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Posted By: jboettcher
Date Posted: 02 Oct 2017 at 9:39am
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As I continue research, I saw this note on the sealed pilot bearing. ""Pilot Bearing that fits Allis Chalmers Tractor Models:G138, G160, G226, RC, WC,WD (Engine S/N <45-30955), WD45 (Engine S/N <45-30955), 170, 175 Bearing Sides: 1 Non-Contact Metal Shield, Bore: .984" (24.993mm), OD: 2.047" (51.993mm), Width .591" (15.011mm)"" My SN# is 4XXXX
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