1968 i600 gas bhl stalling when clutch released
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Category: Allis Chalmers
Forum Name: Farm Equipment
Forum Description: everything about Allis-Chalmers farm equipment
URL: https://www.allischalmers.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=142649
Printed Date: 19 Jul 2025 at 8:44am
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Topic: 1968 i600 gas bhl stalling when clutch released
Posted By: bobazume
Subject: 1968 i600 gas bhl stalling when clutch released
Date Posted: 19 Sep 2017 at 6:25pm
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Hi everyone - I am new to large equipment and have had this back hoe for couple of years..hasnt every run 100 percent but I'm trying to put some time into determining why. currently I can start the trator with the clutch engaged. release the clutch regardless of how slow..cause the rpm to drop and the tractor will stall. this even occurs with shuttle in neutral. I can hear / feel what I believe must be the rear hydraulic for the back hoe trying to spin (whirling noise below/behind me). could this be from improper hydraulic fluid level? I can no longer keep it running effectively enough to move it. thanks in advance |
Replies:
Posted By: Eric B
Date Posted: 19 Sep 2017 at 8:22pm
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There must be a problem with the hydraulic pump, probably about to seize up if it is not already. It works directly with clutch function. ------------- Currently- WD,WC,3WF's,2 D14's B. Previously- I 600,TL745,200,FL9,FR12,H3,816 LBH. Earth has no sorrow that Heaven cannot heal! |
Posted By: MACK
Date Posted: 20 Sep 2017 at 6:38am
| Does it do this at idle or wide open? How does it sound with clutch pushed down?MACK |
Posted By: bradley6874
Date Posted: 20 Sep 2017 at 8:19am
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Just a thought try putting the tractor transmission in neutral and slowly let the clutch out transmission may be in two gears just a thought ------------- You can wash the dirt off the body but you can’t wash the farmer out of the heart and soul |
Posted By: DiyDave
Date Posted: 20 Sep 2017 at 6:21pm
| If something isn't in a direct stall (pump or tranny), Do you have a diverter valve, thats stick halfway in the middle? Diverter valve was used on some older hoe tractors, one way, the flow goes to the loader, other way the flow goes to the hoe. In the middle, the flow stalls. Generally put in an easy position to knock with your knee, as you get on/off, IIRR... |
Posted By: bobazume
Date Posted: 21 Sep 2017 at 6:45am
| Thanks everyone. I was chasing the possibility of being stuck in two gears with the advantage that I can use the stabalizers to lift the rear wheels. while testing that I wrestled with stalling and noticed that the fuel filter wasnt staying consistently full (I had added a clear in line "automotive" filter). I've read that these can be too restrictive but really wanted to ensure new carb stays as clean as possible. lifting the filter just slightly causes the fuel flow to drop (the line is very close to horizontal after the sediment bowl down to carb and the filter was in line there). pulled the filter and I can keep it running...but I've found I have to keep tank very full. it has a pretty small steel line out of sediment and carb that's been cut to insert rubber fuel line. wondering if those lines are too small? what size should the fuel line be? not sure if possibley the shutoff valve is too restrictive...I can get gas to flow to carb but with I knew what a good flow volume should be out the bottom of the carb in this gravity fed system. ie:how many ounces of fuel in a cup in 30 seconds with bowl drain removed. |
Posted By: Eric B
Date Posted: 21 Sep 2017 at 12:50pm
Glad you narrowed it down to fuel restriction... I guess we should have suggested the simple things first  . A 1/4" line is plenty big for gas flow. I have had it happen to one of my tractors that the sediment valve unit became restricted enough that it had to come apart and be thoroughly cleaned (the tank has to be drained for this). After that all was good. I agree with the lack of drop being critical from the bottom of the tank to the carb but with good flow you won't have a problem. I am able to climb very steep hills with my D14 (similar set up as your I600) with no problem of fuel supply. If you test the flow rate you will need a minimum of one to 1 1/2 fl. oz. for every 30 seconds but a bit more could be needed under very hard working conditions.------------- Currently- WD,WC,3WF's,2 D14's B. Previously- I 600,TL745,200,FL9,FR12,H3,816 LBH. Earth has no sorrow that Heaven cannot heal! |
Posted By: Coke-in-MN
Date Posted: 21 Sep 2017 at 1:17pm
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Answer might be a low pressure electric fuel pump installed with a filter before pump . Also they make a small fuel filter made for gravity systems check in lawn and garden section of big box store lawn mower supplies ------------- Faith isn't a jump in the dark. It is a walk in the light. Faith is not guessing; it is knowing something. "Challenges are what make life interesting; overcoming them is what makes life meaningful." |
Posted By: HD6GTOM
Date Posted: 21 Sep 2017 at 5:05pm
| Sounds like you need to unscrew the sediment bulb from the bottom of the fuel tank and see if it is part way plugged. For years my series 4 D17 diesel did not seem like it had a lot of power when I hit a hard spot plowing or pulling the big baler in the hills. I took the sediment bulb out one found a piece of gasket from the fuel gauge. It had been in there for years. I have owned the tractor for over 30+ years and never had the fuel gauge out of it. It now has a lot more low end torque. Good luck with your tractor. |
Posted By: bobazume
Date Posted: 22 Sep 2017 at 7:10am
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thanks everyone. definitely been going through this one (one step at a time). I had picked up a sediment bowl but hadn't changed it yet. also wanted to pull the tank (debated on coating internal..but fear of not doing it perfectly and causing more harm than good(if it flakes off). it's always been fussy at times when on an angle (side to side)..and most recently the nose was up whIle going through this. I've grabbed a smaller filter too. will test the flow.(and consider the e pump too)..this is great information. tractor is at a property (in progress) a couple hours from home..and the tools I need at the moment always seem to be at home. |
Posted By: bobazume
Date Posted: 13 Nov 2017 at 6:42pm
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HD6GTom you were spot on. drained the tank , pulled old sediment bowl and inlet was nearly fully clogged. Seemed to be some type of material - it was flexible enough to get in there but it was tough (couldn't break it up). Probably some piece of gasket too. Tractor is running great and we finally started using it again. New issue - a friend was working with it moving stone into the driveway. He reported that it wasn't starting to move until the foot clutch pedal was nearly at the top. Said some fluid was coming out somewhere behind the shifter when looking down while in the seat. I think he was describing what appears to be a vent (assuming for the rear end). He said it no longer moving. When I got to it -- I can move the shuttle clutch forward, neutral and reverse without having to have my foot on the clutch and I can move between the gears 1-4.. no movement from the tractor at all and no noises (grinding). The foot clutch feels softer/lighter than I recall - less resistance pushing it in. If the clutch went - I shouldn't be able to put it into any gear should I? We don't really move it too much but I've never noticed any slippage in the little we do move it. I do have a service manual - but the images are really poor...and I was never clear on the relationship between the 4 gears and the purpose of the shuttle clutch. Do you chose which gear 1-4 you want for a particular job - then leave it in that gear and use the hand/foot throttle to control your speed? The shuttle clutch is then used to put the tractor in forward , neutral or reverse? That's how I've been using it...but I am only ever in gear 1 or 2. If you had to drive it on a road - do you have to start it in 4th?
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Posted By: MACK
Date Posted: 13 Nov 2017 at 9:48pm
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Does all hydraulics work? When you shift shuttle from forward to reverse can you hear a change in motor? Sounds like clutch is gone. MACK |
Posted By: bobazume
Date Posted: 14 Nov 2017 at 9:54pm
| hydraulics all work. no change in engine sound. prior to all this ...I would definitely hear a difference when I had everything in neutral and released the clutch...like a load was put on the motor (pump I presumed). when the motor wasn't running properly it was enough of a load to cause it to stall. it did have some noise to it ..like a whining (feels/sounds like it's under the seat) I had checked the fluids and changed everything out last fall..drained the rear-end gear oil. hydraulic has a small leak on one of the stabilizers so I have to add it regularly. where he said he saw the fluid was what I believe to be a breather for the rearend just behind the dip stick (grey fluid). the hydraulic I've been filling near the front frame...and I believe the plug in the frame near where you get on the tractor is how to check the level...but every time I've opened that my hydraulic fluid wants to foam out there ..like its over full...or possibly getting water into it ..im surprised that it seems to have so much air in it. wondering if it (the fluid) broke down and I lost a bearing..or possibly clutch plates contaminated..not sure if this is a wet clutch type of setup? |
Posted By: Eric B
Date Posted: 15 Nov 2017 at 12:24am
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If the hydraulics work fine the main clutch is grabbing well enough to run the pump. The main clutch is dry and the fwd reverse runs in oil. If the hydraulics are working while you are trying it in a gear either direction the main clutch is fully functional and your slippage or malfunction is more likely to be in the fwd reverse clutch. Sounds like your main clutch needs adjusting if it's right at the top, you should have about 2 inches of free play at the top of your pedal. With all the foam in the hyd. oil you may not have the right oil in there. Real hyd. oil is non-foaming. The hydraulics are likely to whine a lot with the air in the system and it may end up giving you jerky movements once the oil warms up and foams. Unless the hyd. oil looks milky or grey/white you don't have water in the system. If it's your fwd reverse clutch that's slipping it can be adjusted through the access plate on the side of the housing. ------------- Currently- WD,WC,3WF's,2 D14's B. Previously- I 600,TL745,200,FL9,FR12,H3,816 LBH. Earth has no sorrow that Heaven cannot heal! |