Allis Chalmers 8030 Blowing Oil
Printed From: Unofficial Allis
Category: Allis Chalmers
Forum Name: Farm Equipment
Forum Description: everything about Allis-Chalmers farm equipment
URL: https://www.allischalmers.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=142214
Printed Date: 05 Sep 2025 at 11:43pm Software Version: Web Wiz Forums 11.10 - http://www.webwizforums.com
Topic: Allis Chalmers 8030 Blowing Oil
Posted By: RickA
Subject: Allis Chalmers 8030 Blowing Oil
Date Posted: 06 Sep 2017 at 8:05pm
My 8030 starts, runs and sounds great. It does not blow smoke. When under load it has been going through a lot of motor oil, to the tune of a gallon every 3 to 4 hours. There's no oil in the radiator and no excess oil in the rear end so I've ruled out a blown main seal. We tied an ice cream bucket under the hose that comes off the valve cover vent and after a couple hours in the field, it was full. A couple mechanics suggest the rings are bad, or the valve guides are shot, but are stumped as to why the stack is not blowing smoke. We took the valve cover off and the guides appear good. Next plan is to drop the pan and check for a cracked piston. Any thoughts from the forum are welcome before I get into a major overhaul.
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Replies:
Posted By: bigal121892
Date Posted: 06 Sep 2017 at 9:25pm
What are you using for oil?
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Posted By: MACK
Date Posted: 06 Sep 2017 at 9:32pm
Check for bad air filter. Also check where tube from air cleaner to turbo goes over radiator for rusted out tube. Have saw them rusted all the way through. MACK
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Posted By: DrAllis
Date Posted: 07 Sep 2017 at 7:27am
I had one tractor (and only one) that had a cracked ferrel on the oil line going to the rocker arms spraying excessive oil under the valve cover and then going out the breather hose. Same scenario------a couple gallons in a half days running. He wanted to overhaul it too and I refused to do so because of how good it started and ran.
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Posted By: RickA
Date Posted: 07 Sep 2017 at 7:43am
Posted By: RickA
Date Posted: 07 Sep 2017 at 7:44am
We checked the air filter and line to turbo but it is fully intact.
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Posted By: RickA
Date Posted: 07 Sep 2017 at 7:46am
We hadn't considered the cracked Ferrell issue. We will check that out before we drop the pan. Thanks for the tip.
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Posted By: DrAllis
Date Posted: 07 Sep 2017 at 7:56am
Under full load with a water manometer connected to the dipstick tube, there should be less than 2 inches of pressure created in the crankcase.
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Posted By: RickA
Date Posted: 07 Sep 2017 at 8:10am
If the pressure is higher than a 2, what might that be a symptom of?
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Posted By: DrAllis
Date Posted: 07 Sep 2017 at 8:25am
Piston, ring or sleeve issues. Too much blow-by. This is a spec of my own from dynoing dozens and dozens of engines. AC never offered a spec.
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Posted By: RickA
Date Posted: 07 Sep 2017 at 8:32am
OK, that's good information. I discussed your thoughts on the ferrel line with my mechanic this morning. He had not thought of it and we are hopeful that we will find that the issue. Would explain a lot of things.
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Posted By: Dans 7080
Date Posted: 07 Sep 2017 at 9:50am
Are the oil drains in the head clear?
------------- When someone tells you Nothings Impossible, Tell them to slam a revolving door
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Posted By: DrAllis
Date Posted: 09 Sep 2017 at 6:16am
Posted By: RickA
Date Posted: 10 Sep 2017 at 10:28am
Actually, I have had many conversations with the mechanic since I joined this forum. He has a full-time job (as a diesel mechanic) and is working on this machine, when he is available, in my farm shop. He plans to investigate some of the good tips I've been getting later this week. When we've had a chance to look again, I will update the forum. Hopefully by the end of the week.
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Posted By: AC7060IL
Date Posted: 12 Sep 2017 at 1:47pm
DrAllis wrote:
Status of the repair ?? | Diddo
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Posted By: RickA
Date Posted: 13 Sep 2017 at 4:11pm
UPDATE: We got another look under the valve cover today and found a couple notable items based on a tip from this forum. The ferrel line closest to the cab was loose and it is apparent that the threads had been crossed (possible prior engine work). Also, the return ferrel at the front of the engine was touching a valve spring and had a large hole worn into the side of it. I tried to upload an image but unsuccessful. I hope I have luck finding these parts. The plan is to replace, re-assemble and run the tractor through harvest and monitor the oil usage. If I'm lucky, this was the cause of the tractors extreme oil usage and I just dodged a major overhaul bill which means this forum has saved me a bundle.
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Posted By: RickA
Date Posted: 13 Sep 2017 at 4:27pm
A fellow forum member is uploading the picture for me, and I should clarify my terminology that the ferrel line is actually the oil line that runs between the ferrels (metal caps that secure the line).
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Posted By: AC7060IL
Date Posted: 13 Sep 2017 at 5:06pm
Posted By: Dans 7080
Date Posted: 13 Sep 2017 at 5:13pm
Line on the left would be your problem.
------------- When someone tells you Nothings Impossible, Tell them to slam a revolving door
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Posted By: DrAllis
Date Posted: 14 Sep 2017 at 7:19am
The line on the left is the front drain line and is 2 feet away from the breather hose, and hurts nothing with a hole in it. Seen that many times before. The problem is the rear line left loose or cross-threaded spraying oil directly at the breather hose hole in the valve cover. Same affect as a cracked ferrell.
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Posted By: RickA
Date Posted: 05 Nov 2017 at 10:15am
Just wanted to give a final report of the condition of the tractor/motor. I just finished working 160 acres of ground with a 20 foot disk and I am happy to report the tractor did not blow or burn any oil during the operation, so the problem was the oil feed line at the back of the engine, just under the valve cover near the vent opening. Thanks again for all the great advice!
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Posted By: Adam Stratton
Date Posted: 06 Nov 2017 at 8:24am
Im late to this party but had a similar issue just develop on a 7060, so I will check into a few of these possibilities. This 7060 has very little blow by at an idle but really blows when under a load. It had been fine in the morning, then over the course of a few rounds started leaking oil at the supply line to the turbo. Noticed it (blowing oil back on the manifold and smoking) and tightened it down. Started the blow by situation almost immediately afterward. I wondered if something was messed up in the turbo, but wont hurt to pull the valve cover too. I had the same oil line break on a 7030 this year and managed to find it when I pulled the valve cover just to check things over. This 7060 is acting similar but different. Glad you were able to find your problem and get it taken care of so easily.
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