Broke the transmission housing on my 180
Printed From: Unofficial Allis
Category: Allis Chalmers
Forum Name: Farm Equipment
Forum Description: everything about Allis-Chalmers farm equipment
URL: https://www.allischalmers.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=142101
Printed Date: 08 Sep 2025 at 8:57am
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Topic: Broke the transmission housing on my 180
Posted By: BrettPhillips
Subject: Broke the transmission housing on my 180
Date Posted: 03 Sep 2017 at 5:06pm
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I was finishing up some plowing with my early One Eighty and 3-16 plow, when I backed into a dead furrow and heard a loud bang. I looked back and the plow had dropped to the ground and oil was spraying everywhere. I figured that the hydraulic hose to the left hand lift cylinder had burst until I took a closer look and saw that the cylinder mounting bracket was separated from the transmission housing. Evidently the bolts had been broken by the previous owner who had replaced two of them but not the third, which was still broken off in the transmission housing. When I backed into tha dead furrow, one bolt sheared off, and the other one broke the transmission housing ear off. The rest of the tractor isn't too bad. It has brand new rear tires, decent fronts, good rims, fair sheet metal, a pretty nice running engine,etc. Other problems are that it jumps out of third with a load, the PTO brake is weak, and the seat suspension is kinda floppy. I suppose it's a good opportunity to fix the transmission but I'm not sure if I really want to put that much time and money into it. Anybody else been here and done this before?  
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Replies:
Posted By: FREEDGUY
Date Posted: 03 Sep 2017 at 5:33pm
What Model year and is it a gas or diesel?? If gas, probably send it to salvage yard. Sorry
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Posted By: BrettPhillips
Date Posted: 03 Sep 2017 at 5:37pm
It's a '67 model, diesel 
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Posted By: FREEDGUY
Date Posted: 03 Sep 2017 at 5:50pm
| MAN-O-MAN, That IS a tough call,SHARP looking tractor.Any salvage yards close?? |
Posted By: WD45
Date Posted: 03 Sep 2017 at 6:13pm
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Find another 180 or 185 and use this one for parts. ------------- Fred Dunlop, G,B,CA, WC,WF, 3 WD45`s,gas, diesel and LP,U,D10 series III, D12,D14,D15 SERIES II,D17 Series IV in Gas and Diesel ,D19 GAS and D21,170 185,210 ,220 an I-600 8070 fwd, 716H and 1920H |
Posted By: tony
Date Posted: 03 Sep 2017 at 6:17pm
| If you scrap it do you need to replace it? Is so are you going to be able to replace it for what it would cost to fix the current one? Unless you're going to get a new (or at least a late model) tractor, I think you're better off fixing the problem. You know the tractor and at least it's recent history. You fix all that needs fixing you'll have a solid tractor for years. You buy a used one and you don't know what you're getting. A year from now you're new to you tractor could be in the same shape (minus the broken transmission housing). Not familiar with the 180 but if it has the Perkins engine and it's solid the decision gets easier in my opinion as those engines are solid. Fix it and you'll be in good shape for years. |
Posted By: ACman 220
Date Posted: 03 Sep 2017 at 6:37pm
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I agree with Tony, you know what youve got. Start checking salvage yards for what you need, alot of work but it will be worth it. Too many ACs already in salvage. Good luck. ------------- |
Posted By: DougG
Date Posted: 03 Sep 2017 at 6:41pm
| Find a good welder/ machine shop and have them weld it back together, no big deal, been done before |
Posted By: hillmonkey
Date Posted: 03 Sep 2017 at 8:14pm
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https://louisville.craigslist.org/grd/d/180-allis-chalmer/6268863277.html" rel="nofollow - https://louisville.craigslist.org/grd/d/180-allis-chalmer/6268863277.html ck with this guy, if he finds one and needs other parts than you or if you find one he might buy the rest of what is left over. good place to start,long shot but worth a call or email? |
Posted By: Dakota Dave
Date Posted: 03 Sep 2017 at 10:04pm
| We broke the rear housing on the case2096 last year. It was a lot of work to take the tractor apart and have the housing welded. After re assembly it's as good as before. Since you don't have oil pouring out it dosent look that bad. A good welder should be able to weld that once you take enough stuff off to get good access. |
Posted By: shameless dude
Date Posted: 03 Sep 2017 at 11:40pm
| I would buy another one and keep this one for parts. |
Posted By: Gary Burnett
Date Posted: 04 Sep 2017 at 2:16am
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If you decide not to fix it and want to sell it let me know. |
Posted By: B26240
Date Posted: 04 Sep 2017 at 6:13am
| I'm with Tony on his thinking, also what are your shop capabilities? if you are willing to do the work it would be a good time to fix the tranny. as far as welding up your housing I would say that depends on the skill of your local welder if he has experiance doing this type of welding. |
Posted By: 45 turboa-
Date Posted: 04 Sep 2017 at 7:47am
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I've welded a lot of castings mostly on JDs were the drawbar rack attaches and JD has bad cast iron. Now on the other hand on A-C cast is a better type of cast is nice to weld it is more like a cast steel. I wouldn't be afaid to weld it. ------------- turbocharged |
Posted By: bradley6874
Date Posted: 04 Sep 2017 at 9:28am
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https://baltimore.craigslist.org/grd/d/tractor-allis-chalmers-190-xt/6284510027.html https://fredericksburg.craigslist.org/grd/d/allis-chalmers-175-diesel/6272146990.html" rel="nofollow - https://fredericksburg.craigslist.org/grd/d/allis-chalmers-175-diesel/6272146990.html ------------- You can wash the dirt off the body but you can’t wash the farmer out of the heart and soul |
Posted By: ksbowman
Date Posted: 04 Sep 2017 at 6:13pm
| My dad welded up several cast iron blocks and heads on cars and trucks. He would heat the area with a cutting torch, weld with 7018 LH rod, then bring the temperature down slowly with the torch , gradually reducing the amount of heating with the torch. Later in life he would use a cast iron application rod in lieu of the 7018 rod. |
Posted By: Gary IN
Date Posted: 04 Sep 2017 at 9:44pm
| Have what you need but I am in Indiana. Gary IN |
Posted By: Charlie175
Date Posted: 05 Sep 2017 at 7:33am
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Sorry to hear about this Brett. Hope you get it fixed ------------- Charlie '48 B, '51 CA, '56 WD45 '61 D17, '63 D12, '65 D10 , '68 One-Ninety XTD |
Posted By: Clay
Date Posted: 05 Sep 2017 at 8:45am
I use an air needle scaler to remove sl*g and to relieve stresses in metal, as I weld. If your shop skills are not as good as you hope, have a certified welder do the job. Harbor Freight has a pretty darn good air needle scaler for $54.99. http://www.harborfreight.com/air-tools/specialty-air-tools/air-needle-scaler-1108.html" rel="nofollow - http://www.harborfreight.com/air-tools/specialty-air-tools/air-needle-scaler-1108.html
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ksbowman wrote:Posted By: ksbowman
Date Posted: 05 Sep 2017 at 6:06pm
| My father (was) and I am a certified welder. Both of us on wire and stick and unlimited thickness of material. Also while we were still working we were state certified on bridges. He worked over 40+ years and I worked 38 years as structural ironworkers and yes we have used scalers to remove sl*g many times during our years working. My father passed away many years ago and I have been retired for almost 13 years. When he was using the procedures I described it was between 40 and 50 years ago, but could still be replicated today. I know it was a long time ago but, it was a long time ago that our tractors were made. Thanks for your suggestions. |
Posted By: jbirnsch
Date Posted: 05 Sep 2017 at 7:18pm
| I have had good luck with Hobart nickle 55 cast iron rods. Use an old Lincoln AC welder set to 75A with these rods. |
Posted By: FREEDGUY
Date Posted: 05 Sep 2017 at 7:47pm
| Just curious,why do you only pull a 3 bottom plow on a 70 horse tractor? Not knocking it, just curious. Thanks |
Posted By: Nathan (SD)
Date Posted: 05 Sep 2017 at 8:19pm
This. Scrap it my aas.
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