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48 allis Chalmers c broken valve spring

Printed From: Unofficial Allis
Category: Allis Chalmers
Forum Name: Farm Equipment
Forum Description: everything about Allis-Chalmers farm equipment
URL: https://www.allischalmers.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=141335
Printed Date: 08 Sep 2025 at 7:09am
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Topic: 48 allis Chalmers c broken valve spring
Posted By: ac89
Subject: 48 allis Chalmers c broken valve spring
Date Posted: 11 Aug 2017 at 1:24pm
Was wondering if anyone on here has had this happen to them. How much of a job is it to replace the spring. Probably should buy a set of springs and have the valves ground. Any tips would be helpful. I'm not looking to spend a lot of money on it. That being said I want it done right so if I have to I'll keep it shedded until I can afford the parts. Thanks in advance



Replies:
Posted By: DrAllis
Date Posted: 11 Aug 2017 at 1:51pm
To simply replace one spring isn't too bad. Remove the spark plug to the cylinder affected. With the piston near the bottom, shove about 8 feet of 5/16" nylon rope down into the cylinder. Turn engine over by hand until the coiled up rope is holding both valves up tight and remove rocker arm shaft. There is a valve spring compressor from Craftsman (and others) to compress the spring and remove the retainers. Have fun.


Posted By: ac89
Date Posted: 11 Aug 2017 at 1:53pm
Alright thank you


Posted By: PaulB
Date Posted: 12 Aug 2017 at 7:21am
Do it cheap or do it right, you can't do both.

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If it was fun to pull in LOW gear, I could have a John Deere.
Real pullers don't have speed limits.
If you can't make it GO... make it SHINY


Posted By: Hubert (Ga)engine7
Date Posted: 12 Aug 2017 at 7:51am
Originally posted by PaulB PaulB wrote:

Do it cheap or do it right, you can't do both.

X2


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Just an old country boy saved by the grace of God.


Posted By: Ted J
Date Posted: 12 Aug 2017 at 7:58am
Take an old spark plug and break off all the ceramic.  Now take an air hose connector and glue (JB Weld Steel) or braze/weld this to the metal threads of the spark plug.  Insert the new tool and plug the air hose to it.  This will hold the valve up while you do the work.  You don't have to worry about bending a valve this way.


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"Allis-Express"
19?? WC / 1941 C / 1952 CA / 1956 WD45 / 1957 WD45 / 1958 D-17


Posted By: Dave H
Date Posted: 12 Aug 2017 at 12:51pm
Do it cheap or do it right, you can't do both.

Whoah, what is wrong with just fixing what is broke?  Confused


Posted By: Ted J
Date Posted: 15 Aug 2017 at 6:18am
I was reminded that you should ALSO have the piston at the top of the compression stroke when you put the spark plug/air plug onto the head.  The reason is so that if you lose air pressure or unhook the air hose, the valve doesn't fall inside the cylinder. Dead Dead
Thanks orangeborn.......somebody would have been cussing me!!  Sometimes we take things for granted Clap and/or assume.........ass/u/me...Confused


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"Allis-Express"
19?? WC / 1941 C / 1952 CA / 1956 WD45 / 1957 WD45 / 1958 D-17


Posted By: CTuckerNWIL
Date Posted: 15 Aug 2017 at 7:04am
I would be willing to bet, you aren't far from other springs failing. I would also bet, the guides aren't in great shape and seats are worn too
 When I had the head off my 45 to clean up the manifold area after a long time of leaking, I ended up replacing the guides, springs and valves. It made the thing run like a new one too. I only had to buy parts, and did the work myself, so it didn't cost me much and was well worth my time
 On the other hand, replacing one spring without removing the head would be way cheaper.


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http://www.ae-ta.com" rel="nofollow - http://www.ae-ta.com
Lena 1935 WC12xxx, Willie 1951 CA6xx Dad bought new, 1954WD45 PS, 1960 D17 NF


Posted By: Rog(NCWI)
Date Posted: 18 Aug 2017 at 8:52pm
Do it right. Take it in to a repair shop and have them rebuild it for you. I can bet that there will be other springs reedy to brake. Give it a valve job and put a new head gasket in it to. Cheaper in the long run.


Posted By: ac89
Date Posted: 19 Aug 2017 at 6:42am
Thank you for all of the suggestions. I think I may let it sit until I can buy the parts to rebuild the head. This tractor is the first I bought when I was 18 so I have a sentimental attachment to it. It's also a wide front which is neat because they're more rare.


Posted By: bradley6874
Date Posted: 19 Aug 2017 at 7:09am
Stick a valve spring on get it back to work then this winter pull the head and have it completly rebuilt then wwhile the head is off you can chek for sleve wear and maybeee take a look at the bearings and have the time to dig deeper or just over haul the whole thing and hopefully never have to worry about the motor

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You can wash the dirt off the body but you can’t wash the farmer out of the heart and soul


Posted By: LeonR2013
Date Posted: 19 Aug 2017 at 7:55am
Good suggestion Brad.


Posted By: Dave H
Date Posted: 19 Aug 2017 at 8:10am
Originally posted by bradley6874 bradley6874 wrote:

Stick a valve spring on get it back to work then this winter pull the head and have it completly rebuilt then wwhile the head is off you can chek for sleve wear and maybeee take a look at the bearings and have the time to dig deeper or just over haul the whole thing and hopefully never have to worry about the motor


Good idea, but i would do like Richard Rawlings always says, let her rip tader chip.  Wink



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