L306 too heavy for sfw C?
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Topic: L306 too heavy for sfw C?
Posted By: Hubnut
Subject: L306 too heavy for sfw C?
Date Posted: 09 Aug 2017 at 5:45pm
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I need to know if a Woods L306 mower would be too heavy (unstable) for a single front wheel C. What do you think? Anybody tried this? ------------- 1940 B "Lucy" 1941 B w/ Woods L59 "Flavia" 1942 B w/ finish mower "Dick" 1941 C w/ 3-point "Maggie" 1947 C SFW w/ L306 "Trixie" 1972 314H |
Replies:
Posted By: Orange Blood
Date Posted: 09 Aug 2017 at 6:21pm
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It won't be too heavy. It won't be any more unstable than the tractor is with a mounted cultivator. If you are worried about hillsides, then yes the rig will be more unstable than a wide front tractor, but no more unstable than a narrow front tractor. The mower actually lowers the center of gravity some, so technically it is MORE stable on a side hill, but due to the flimsy semi-rigid mounting method it really doesn't help any. What you may have issue with, is power. The C will handle the 6 foot as long as you are not in heavy material. ------------- Still in use: HD7 WC C CA WD 2-WD45 WD45LP WD45D D14 3-D17 D17LP 2-D19D D19LP 190XTD 190XTLP 720 D21 220 7020 7030 7040 7045 3-7060 Projects: 3-U UC 2-G 2-B 2-C CA 7-WC RC WDLP WF D14 D21 210 7045 N7 |
Posted By: Hubnut
Date Posted: 09 Aug 2017 at 7:34pm
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Thank you OB. That's what I wanted to hear. I was mainly worried about the weight on the single front tire. ------------- 1940 B "Lucy" 1941 B w/ Woods L59 "Flavia" 1942 B w/ finish mower "Dick" 1941 C w/ 3-point "Maggie" 1947 C SFW w/ L306 "Trixie" 1972 314H |
Posted By: Dakota Dave
Date Posted: 09 Aug 2017 at 8:46pm
| My dual front c has no problem with one even when one tire is flat. Your single front is better than a dual front with a flat.with 25% of your tractors wieght hanging 6" from the ground you'll get scared long before it'll be a problem. That flimsy mounting is much stronger than it looks. If you run into a solid object it'll stop the tractor dead in its tracks. A C has plenty of power for a 6' deck. It is very important to set it up correctly . The leading edge of the deck needs to be a inch lower than the trailing edge so your not trying to recut what you've already cut. I can easily mow 8 to 10" high grass before it starts skipping spots. |
Posted By: Gary
Date Posted: 10 Aug 2017 at 4:11am
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'Woods' advertises it for a 'B' and 'C'. Gary http://www.empiretractor.com/2016-woods-l306-inventory.htm?id=23314584" rel="nofollow - http://www.empiretractor.com/2016-woods-l306-inventory.htm?id=23314584 |
Posted By: Butch(OH)
Date Posted: 10 Aug 2017 at 7:34am
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I have mowed with Bs and Cs and 6' belly mowers since 1970. The C will be just fine with a 6' belly mower. You must remember that woods belly mowers are not Brush Hogs, they are lawnmowers. If the engine is in good shape the V belt is the limiting factor, not the engine power or ability of the tractor to handle the weight. The belt must be kept T-I-G-H-T. If the engine is laboring you best shift to gear #1 or raise the mower or soon you will be smelling warm rubber, LOL. |
Posted By: cdon_FL
Date Posted: 11 Aug 2017 at 1:35pm
Hubnut,I am running an L306 under CA Ginger with the SFW. The front tire bulges from the weight, but I am not sure that's not because of low tire pressure (because I have never checked the pressure).  I still have the front weights on, too, (for no good reason). Runs so well I hate to change anything on it.Does have a tendency to "plow" with the SFW in sharp turns on soft ground. But that might happen with dual fronts or even wide front wheels (?) Airing up the front tire and removing the front weights should help with that. As others have said, the belt alignment on an L306 is the headache. Having used both, I prefer the multi-belt setup of Haney with the Arts Way mower more than the single-belt L306. Took me a while of tinkering with pulley alignment (and burning up one belt in the process) to get things on the L306 CA working, but seems OK now. I welded about 6 inches of 3/8 allthread to the side of the head of the bolt for the lower idler pulley (with an attending smooth bore collar to the bracket) so I can tighten the belt tension with a nut now before cinching down the lower idler pulley bolt. That's been helpful. I have also found that with the pulleys in better alignment, I don't have to run the belt as tight and it does not run as hot as the first belt did. CA seems to have plenty of power for the L306, but it's not a bush hog. I did not hook up hydraulic lift to the L306. And I don't have a hand lift, either. Mowing height is fixed for now with just a length of chain running between the L306 deck and a bolt screwed into the torque tube. I used a floor jack under the front of the mower deck to get it where I wanted it and then connected the chain. I would not like my setup near as much if it did not have a working hand clutch, though. With the hand clutch I can keep the RPM and blade speed up when entering high grass and use the hand clutch to ease into it in stages. ------------- Chris in NE Florida |
Posted By: Hubnut
Date Posted: 11 Aug 2017 at 6:27pm
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Chris, Thanks for the info. Glad Ginger is working well and the hand clutch is getting use. Is she still pink? How's Haney working out after the tank repair? Steve ------------- 1940 B "Lucy" 1941 B w/ Woods L59 "Flavia" 1942 B w/ finish mower "Dick" 1941 C w/ 3-point "Maggie" 1947 C SFW w/ L306 "Trixie" 1972 314H |