WD-45 Manafold installation
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Category: Allis Chalmers
Forum Name: Farm Equipment
Forum Description: everything about Allis-Chalmers farm equipment
URL: https://www.allischalmers.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=140194
Printed Date: 15 Jun 2025 at 2:57am
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Topic: WD-45 Manafold installation
Posted By: BradH
Subject: WD-45 Manafold installation
Date Posted: 07 Jul 2017 at 6:22pm
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Okay, I'm sure it's been asked on here about a hundred times already and you guys are getting tired of explaining things to me. But I don't have time, money, or patience to do the job wrong. So I'll ask again. Now that I have to old manifold off, and the studs removed what do I need to do to install the new one? I've got the studs and gaskets already. What's the order for gaskets and sealer? Also, do I need some kind of a seal between the top of the carb and the bottom of the manifold? I didn't really see any evidence of one when I took it apart, but that's been a couple of months ago now. Also, what's the right amount of torque I'm looking for when tightening? Sorry for all the simple questions, but I'm not really a mechanic, I'm only pretending. That's why I'm here, to ask someone who is. Thanks again, Brad ------------- Warning! Blind man with a tractor! Head for the hills! |
Replies:
Posted By: DSeries4
Date Posted: 07 Jul 2017 at 9:44pm
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Yes, there is a gasket that goes between the carb and manifold. The old one was so thin you probably didn't see it when you took things apart. Putting in the studs is the easy part. This can be done first. Thread them in snugly - don't snap them by tightening too hard. I have not had to replace the manifold gaskets on the 226 before, but make sure the surfaces on your head are perfectly flat and smooth, otherwise all of your work is wasted. If you don't already have a service manual, get one. It will help with this job. Good luck! ------------- '49 G, '54 WD45, '55 CA, '56 WD45D, '57 WD45, '58 D14, '59 D14, '60 D14, '61 D15D, '66 D15II, '66 D21II, '67 D17IV, '67 D17IVD, '67 190XTD, '73 620, '76 185, '77 175, '84 8030, '85 6080 |
Posted By: JC-WI
Date Posted: 07 Jul 2017 at 10:32pm
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I have put brass nuts on and stainless steel nuts... haven't needed to take any manifold off to find out which was a better nut to use... and I used thick ss washers too. Often wondered what would be wrong with stainless steel studs too... make sure you have lots of good metal too on manifold... some foreign made ones don't have very much metal on the ex. ports. ------------- He who says there is no evil has already deceived himself The truth is the truth, sugar coated or not. Trawler II says, "Remember that." |
Posted By: what66
Date Posted: 07 Jul 2017 at 11:03pm
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My service manual says to torque them to 20 ft lbs. |
Posted By: DougS
Date Posted: 08 Jul 2017 at 4:06am
Odds are the stainless nuts would seize on the stainless studs very quickly. I've seen it happen as the nut was being tightened on the bolt when no anti seize compound was used.
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JC(WI) wrote:Posted By: CTuckerNWIL
Date Posted: 08 Jul 2017 at 6:58am
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First thing to do is lay a good straight edge across the head surface and check with a feeler gauge to make sure the head is flat, or you'll be wasting time putting anything new on it. ------------- http://www.ae-ta.com" rel="nofollow - http://www.ae-ta.com Lena 1935 WC12xxx, Willie 1951 CA6xx Dad bought new, 1954WD45 PS, 1960 D17 NF |
Posted By: Brian G. NY
Date Posted: 08 Jul 2017 at 9:01am
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As I recall, some, if not all of the manifold studs thread right into the water jacket of the head. So....thread sealant is needed there. I like good ol' permatex #2 for that.
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Posted By: BradH
Date Posted: 08 Jul 2017 at 10:51pm
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I cleaned the face of the head up today. It looks pretty good. The straight edge shows it to be in good shape too. I've got a tube of permatex 2 for the studs, is that what you'd recommend for the gaskets too? Also, do I need it between the gasket and the head, the gasket and the manifold, or both? Or do I not need anything other than the gasket between them? Again, sorry for asking questions like this, I just want to make sure I do it right the first time. Thanks, Brad ------------- Warning! Blind man with a tractor! Head for the hills! |
Posted By: j.w.freck
Date Posted: 08 Jul 2017 at 11:31pm
| brad,mr tucker is right about the head surface,also check your manifold surface as well.those manifolds in time will get surface build up and you can crack your new manifold if it the case.also if you can locate some FELPOR C5A anti sieze use it.it was specially formaulated for the c5a military aircraft engine mount bots that were usually seized up on an engine change.this stuff really works....sorry,i forgot you are installing a new manifold.still use the anti sieze on the nuts |
Posted By: what66
Date Posted: 09 Jul 2017 at 10:20am
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The only sealer I would recommend for the gasket is copper coat. The silicon would just burn off on the exhaust ports. |
Posted By: SteveM C/IL
Date Posted: 09 Jul 2017 at 1:10pm
| the port gaskets go on clean and dry. sometimes bending the sidewall of sealing ring a little in a couple places allows it to grip the manifold so you dont need 6 arms when installing |
Posted By: BradH
Date Posted: 09 Jul 2017 at 9:22pm
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Okay, thanks. I think I've got everything I need to get this done now. Hopefully I can get it on in the next week or so, if I get time. Started building fence and cleaning up pasture this weekend so I'm going in a lot of different directions right now. Thanks again, Brad ------------- Warning! Blind man with a tractor! Head for the hills! |
Posted By: dawntreader74
Date Posted: 10 Jul 2017 at 9:30pm
| don't put anything on the port gaskets' just do the bolts wear they go in the side of the head' like steve was saying' should work fine. after you run it for a few days' check the bolts again. |