UC transmisson rebuild
Printed From: Unofficial Allis
Category: Allis Chalmers
Forum Name: Farm Equipment
Forum Description: everything about Allis-Chalmers farm equipment
URL: https://www.allischalmers.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=139803
Printed Date: 29 Dec 2025 at 7:28pm
Software Version: Web Wiz Forums 11.10 - http://www.webwizforums.com
Topic: UC transmisson rebuild
Posted By: CAL(KS)
Subject: UC transmisson rebuild
Date Posted: 26 Jun 2017 at 9:59am
|
OK. I know not many people will ever get into this but my UC was quite noisy and had a lot of play inside. Since i have turned it into a puller i decided to go through the whole works. U and early A would be similar except for the bevel gear shaft and the addition of the crossshaft. Late A looks to have quite a few changes by looking at parts book. My bearings were Timken cup and cones and New Departure ball bearings. I used an online bearing house and was able to source all the bearings. New and NOS bearings are available. The Timkens I could get at my local carquest but not the large ball bearings. Part #s These are all current #'s. Some of the original Part #'s will still cross but I made sure to pull all the old bearings before ordering. Make sure to have a service manual as there is a specific order for removal and assembly. Trust me. Most of this was done in my home shop where i have less tools and its a mess. You will want a press for the bevel gear shaft/bearing. input shaft bearing 1308L input shaft seal 473367 National countershaft front. cup 417 cone 414 countershaft rear. cup 336 cone 332 mainshaft front. 1210 mainshaft rear. 1211 bevel gear shaft. 1311 Case placed on makeshift table and disassembled.    All the internals through the parts washer.  Case head. If you look closely you can see in the bottom picture first gear was rubbing on the case head.   Main shaft with bearing and holder installed. There is a snap ring groove near the top of the shaft just behind the splines. My snap ring was gone and this was causing all the play as the gear cluster was no longer tight.   Bevel gear shaft and bearing mounted in plate. Notice its a bevel gear not a true ring and pinion. A splined coupler (not shown) is used between the mainshaft and bevel gear shaft.    Counter shaft. The first reduction is also the belt pulley drive gear and is pressed on and utilizes a keyway. Mine fell off when the bearing was removed and went to the machine shop as the shaft needed to be built up and the key was worn. The splined gears slide all the way off.  All internals reassembled. Ready to bolt up to rear end. The tube and jam nuts between 2nd and 3rd gear are used to tighten everything between the end bearings by way of the snap ring that I was missing. external 1" 7/8   This transmission is a bear compared to something like a wc. Make sure all your bearings will fit the shafts before trying to assemble! Enjoy. ------------- Me -C,U,UC,WC,WD45,190XT,TL-12,145T,HD6G,HD16,HD20 Dad- WD, D17D, D19D, RT100A, 7020, 7080,7580, 2-8550's, 2-S77, HD15 |
Replies:
Posted By: Leon B MO
Date Posted: 26 Jun 2017 at 10:57am
|
Nice job Cal. You're probably right, not many UC trans rebuild posts. Are you going to keep the original shifter? My 37 UC is guesswork shifting at times and finding 4th is tricky. I was wondering if a U trans cover with the better shifter and tower would work on a UC without much trouble? I know the lever would need to be repositioned. Enjoyed looking through your post.Leon B Mo ------------- Uncle always said "Fill the back of the shovel and the front will take care of itself". |
Posted By: CAL(KS)
Date Posted: 26 Jun 2017 at 11:12am
I had not considered switching shifters but i do believe it would work. i dont recall any difference in the parts book but i dont have access right now to say for sure. Only issue I can think of is to access 4th on the UC i have to pull out/up on the shifter as the slot inside seems to be slightly higher/taller ( to prevent accidental shift I assume) than the others. not sure how this works on the regular U shifter as I have not taken one off before. You would need to grow your arm much longer or modify the U shifter handle though.  My U does not shift easy but it has been setting a long time and is not currently running.I meant to say differences in the shifting parts of the transmission vs the different shifters in the parts book. ------------- Me -C,U,UC,WC,WD45,190XT,TL-12,145T,HD6G,HD16,HD20 Dad- WD, D17D, D19D, RT100A, 7020, 7080,7580, 2-8550's, 2-S77, HD15 |
Posted By: Leon B MO
Date Posted: 26 Jun 2017 at 11:22am
|
My 37 U shifts as east as our XT, even into 4th. I don't want to take both of them apart only to find it wont work, currently I don't have a spare trans cover for a U but if I knew it would work, I'd find one. Leon B MO ------------- Uncle always said "Fill the back of the shovel and the front will take care of itself". |
Posted By: Chad(WI)
Date Posted: 26 Jun 2017 at 9:13pm
| Thanks for the post Joel...awesome detail. |
Posted By: CAL(KS)
Date Posted: 28 Jun 2017 at 7:27am
|
Leon, per the parts book, all variations of the U, IU and UC all use the same internal shift parts. Changing shifter style would be as simple as swapping the top plate assembly. ------------- Me -C,U,UC,WC,WD45,190XT,TL-12,145T,HD6G,HD16,HD20 Dad- WD, D17D, D19D, RT100A, 7020, 7080,7580, 2-8550's, 2-S77, HD15 |
Posted By: Leon B MO
Date Posted: 28 Jun 2017 at 9:55am
|
Thanks again, guy up around Middletown Mo. used to have some U's sittin around. I may give it a try when I get time. Leon B Mo ------------- Uncle always said "Fill the back of the shovel and the front will take care of itself". |
Posted By: Dave(inMA)
Date Posted: 28 Jun 2017 at 9:58pm
|
Cal - really enjoyed looking at your pix and captions. Nice to see a project like this laid out in detail. ------------- WC, CA, D14, WD45 |