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7020 running warm

Printed From: Unofficial Allis
Category: Allis Chalmers
Forum Name: Farm Equipment
Forum Description: everything about Allis-Chalmers farm equipment
URL: https://www.allischalmers.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=138404
Printed Date: 12 Aug 2025 at 7:49am
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Topic: 7020 running warm
Posted By: thuddylikessmoke
Subject: 7020 running warm
Date Posted: 14 May 2017 at 6:52pm
My 7020 is running warm. I am going to clean the radiator find out. But I noticed that my cooking fan has play in it and wiggles. Top radiator hose is warm.   Bottom one feels cool to the touch. Wondering if it is my waterpump.



Replies:
Posted By: Orange Blood
Date Posted: 14 May 2017 at 7:02pm
define wiggles?  does the shaft move, or you can just flex the fan a bit?

Define warm?  At full operating temp, at the end of the field, you can touch the top hose, but you won't want to touch it long?

Does your radiator have all the foam around the sides and top?

Is it clean, meaning the fins aren't plugged with dirt or hay, or etc?


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Still in use:
HD7 WC C CA WD 2-WD45 WD45LP WD45D D14 3-D17 D17LP 2-D19D D19LP 190XTD 190XTLP 720 D21 220 7020 7030 7040 7045 3-7060
Projects: 3-U UC 2-G 2-B 2-C CA 7-WC RC WDLP WF D14 D21 210 7045 N7


Posted By: thuddylikessmoke
Date Posted: 14 May 2017 at 7:12pm
Shaft moves..... I do not have the foam but cut pool noodles to go between the hood and radiator have a foam kit but haven't put it in yet. Tractor will almost touch the red if left sitting at an idle while moving stuff around.


Posted By: Orange Blood
Date Posted: 14 May 2017 at 7:18pm
Well if the shaft moves side to side, or up or down, then it definitely needs attention, before it comes apart.

I don't think you problem with overheating will be due to the water pump, it could be, but it wouldn't be my first place to look.  I would suspect a stuck or blocked thermostat if idling get's it that hot.

Is the thermostat housing significantly hotter than the hose, keeping in mind that the heat transfer of the hose is worse than the housing?

Do you have another form of reading the temp, such as an infrared thermometer?  Maybe the gauge is off.


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Still in use:
HD7 WC C CA WD 2-WD45 WD45LP WD45D D14 3-D17 D17LP 2-D19D D19LP 190XTD 190XTLP 720 D21 220 7020 7030 7040 7045 3-7060
Projects: 3-U UC 2-G 2-B 2-C CA 7-WC RC WDLP WF D14 D21 210 7045 N7


Posted By: thuddylikessmoke
Date Posted: 14 May 2017 at 7:20pm
I wondered about both.... might just have to take some stuff apart and find out.. I will have to gig around for my infrared gun


Posted By: Gerald J.
Date Posted: 14 May 2017 at 7:38pm
I have had thermostats stick closed. I take them out and put them in a pot of water on a hot plate with a instant read thermometer in the water and watch to see if the thermostat opens at its rated temperature, probably 180F. I have so poor a trust that I run new thermostats through the same test before installing. I don't use that pot for cook food after that test, nor that thermometer with food because antifreeze isn't a health food.

I have also had thermostats stuck open.

Gerald J.


Posted By: thuddylikessmoke
Date Posted: 14 May 2017 at 8:36pm
Infrared gun well baby thermometer that reads surface temp says 172 at the place the temp sensor is. Gauge in cab says over 210


Posted By: DSeries4
Date Posted: 14 May 2017 at 8:46pm
Might as well go over everything in that area:  rad, water pump, stats and hoses to prevent any future down time.


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'49 G, '54 WD45, '55 CA, '56 WD45D, '57 WD45, '58 D14, '59 D14, '60 D14, '61 D15D, '66 D15II, '66 D21II, '67 D17IV, '67 D17IVD, '67 190XTD, '73 620, '76 185, '77 175, '84 8030, '85 6080


Posted By: MACK
Date Posted: 14 May 2017 at 9:37pm
Don't overlook water pump pulley. They ware along with belt causing fan and pump to slow down.    MACK


Posted By: victoryallis
Date Posted: 14 May 2017 at 9:54pm
Before you spend any money pull the radiator and carefully pressure wash it. Made all the difference with my 8030.

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8030 and 8050MFWD, 7580, 3 6080's, 160, 7060, 175, heirloom D17, Deere 8760


Posted By: dt1050
Date Posted: 15 May 2017 at 4:52am
If the fan is wiggling more than likely the bearings are bad in the water pump, ya definitely want to fix that before the fan is in the radiator.  is sounds like your thermostat is stuck as well (top hose hot, bottom cold).  I always spend the extra couple bucks and buy a fail safe thermostat.  there "supposed" to stay open if the go bad.

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Just cause it's orange don't make it a tractor, there's only one..Allis Chalmers


Posted By: DougS
Date Posted: 15 May 2017 at 5:31am
Cold lower hose means the radiator is doing its job. You might get this kind of indication if the radiator is clogged inside or if the thermostat isn't working. If the temperature is 210+ with the radiator cap off and the water isn't boiling, I'd suspect a faulty temperature sensor or gauge.


Posted By: tomNE
Date Posted: 15 May 2017 at 7:18am
lots of good advice; now to sort it out!

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AC from the start of my families farming career till the end!


Posted By: WD45Diesel57
Date Posted: 15 May 2017 at 7:26am
my 7020 I had to pull the rad and wash it, the mud dobber wasps had 3/4s of the fins full of mud for making there hives, took me an hour of gently soaking and washing with a low pressure washer, once clean it runs normal operating temp no matter what I do with it! oh I also installed new thermostats!

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1-B's, 2-C, 2-CA's,2-WF, 1-WC,1-G, 3-WD's, 2-WD45, 1-RC, 1-D17 Diesel, 1-D14, 2-D15,1-D17 row crop,1-D19 gas and All Crop 40,60,66,72,90 and 100


Posted By: thuddylikessmoke
Date Posted: 15 May 2017 at 6:07pm
Well waterpump was bad and got it replaced. The sending unit was also out for the temperature gauge. I took it and had it fixed as i wanted to make sure it was done right and hope to be planting beans on Wednesday! Thanks for all the advice. Glad it really was t overheating. Just never seemed hot


Posted By: jazzsuds
Date Posted: 29 May 2017 at 2:58pm
I have a 7040 and can't figure out where the thermostat is located? I replaced hoses, water pump, pulley and belts and wanted to do the thermostat but couldn't find the old one?


Posted By: Lynn Marshall
Date Posted: 29 May 2017 at 4:55pm
Two thermostats under the rectangular cover where the upper radiator hose attaches. It uses six 5/16 bolts.


Posted By: dt1050
Date Posted: 30 May 2017 at 3:48am
i recommend a fail safe thermostat when possible.  they stay open when they go bad.


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Just cause it's orange don't make it a tractor, there's only one..Allis Chalmers


Posted By: jazzsuds
Date Posted: 30 May 2017 at 12:33pm
Thanks Lynne


Posted By: fourthgeneration
Date Posted: 30 May 2017 at 9:50pm
Our 7020 has 2 Robert Shaw thermostats in it. A 180 and 185. It would be unlikely that both would go bad at the same time. You could take the cap off while the engine is cold and watch as it heats up and see if it looks like it's circulating when it gets to temp.


Posted By: jazzsuds
Date Posted: 30 May 2017 at 10:04pm
Thanks. I found out tat there were no thermostats in the unit


Posted By: fourthgeneration
Date Posted: 30 May 2017 at 10:17pm
I use coil clean to foam on the debris out of the radiator but sounds like you are thinking the pump shaft is broke.


Posted By: ACjack
Date Posted: 31 May 2017 at 2:46pm
Originally posted by fourthgeneration fourthgeneration wrote:

Our 7020 has 2 Robert Shaw thermostats in it. A 180 and 185. It would be unlikely that both would go bad at the same time. You could take the cap off while the engine is cold and watch as it heats up and see if it looks like it's circulating when it gets to temp.
Why the two different temperature thermostats? The factory (Harvey) was using 180 degree Robert Shaw thermostats in the 1970's


Posted By: fourthgeneration
Date Posted: 31 May 2017 at 4:25pm
That's what came in it new. Dad bought it new in 81 or 82.


Posted By: bskmre4
Date Posted: 11 Aug 2025 at 6:38am
just starting to diagnose why the 7040 is overheating. It appears the original temperature gauge and the add-on gauge are not working.  The tractor is mainly used for running an auger in the fall and running the rotary mower in  the summer. After just running in a few minutes with a temperature gun the upper hose reads 125 and the bottom hose reads 85.  Can I assume that a thermostat is bad?  Since we really don’t run it in the winter can I run without a thermostat? How would I know if I was getting a failsafe thermostat?  Are there two thermostats at the upper hose?


Posted By: DrAllis
Date Posted: 11 Aug 2025 at 8:18am
How do you know it's overheating if you don't have any working coolant temp gauge???  Step #1 is a working temp gauge. Step #2 is two new thermostats and be careful not to twist off any of the 6 bolts to the stat housing. Use a torch to warm up the bolt thread pockets. Step #3 is to remove both coolers (set them off to the side or wire them up out of the way) ahead of the radiator. Remove the plastic fan shroud and it better not be broken as it will need to be replaced if it is. Get a 90 degree pipe elbow on the end of your power washer wand tip and gently pressure wash the radiator from the back to the front and front to back for about an hour or maybe more. Especially in the corners will be dirty. When you can shine a trouble light thru the radiator core EVERYWHERE it should be clean enough. Tight fan belts and probably new fan belts would be better as old belts can slip using old pulleys that are worn out. Now see if you have any overheating issues.


Posted By: Lynn Marshall
Date Posted: 11 Aug 2025 at 11:36am
If you end up changing the thermostats, you may be able to see the general condition of the core by taking the top hose off of the radiator. If the core tubes are all white and crusty, poor cooling will result. Also, if the top tank tank is swelled, that's a sign of poor core circulation.



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